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Mysticpuzzle

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Everything posted by Mysticpuzzle

  1. Hi all, I am slowly acquiring the hardware required for the model build. What do people use for point motors? I have 17 points in total (I think so) and buying the surface mounted or other variants is turning out to be an extremely expensive affair. Any cheaper options around which do not break the bank? Thanks.
  2. So, the progress has been slow but finally managed to get the tables sorted and installed. I am really pleased with the IKEA tables- they are cheap (£15 each sans the legs), are sufficiently sturdy (were heavier than I expected) and best of all, every leg has a disc at the end which can be used to increase and also fine tune the height of the table. My son and I spent about couple of hours getting all the tables together (he just screwed in the legs) so good bonding time away from television. I think he is also starting to understand that this whole project is going to take time, which hopefully is teaching him patience since he hasn't complained so far :D Next step is to lay the tracks and iron out any irregularities between the layout on paper vs. reality. Then to plan the electrics. I am also thinking very seriously about going DCC. Changing the points manually with 4 locos on the tracks might turn out to be cumbersome, I am guessing. Got a like-new Hornby Elite from Gumtree for less than £100 so might work. I already have a Hornby Select which I got free. Will google and read stuff about the electrics to get the basics right. @n9, you raise some great points. I see that Copydex is latex based and a lot of members advise against it. What's your experience with it? And how do you remove it once set? I am trying not to make any changes, albeit I come up with an idea pretty much every day. This is my first model and I want to take it easy, understand the basics and essentially enjoy the process. Maybe the next project, I will experiment but I will be a bit more confident too. Good luck with your project!
  3. @cypherman, that sounds like a brilliant and cost effective solution. As I am renting currently, and since I am turning one of the rooms into a train shed, I do not want to make any changes which will spook the landlord :) Some people understand, some just want a reason to complain. I will post a photo of the progress in a bit as per which the door has turned to be absolutely unobtrusive.
  4. Thanks for getting back, @Glob-Ally. I persisted and managed to understand AnyRail better which helped.
  5. Right, I forgot to mention that the under stairs cupboard also has the mains switchboard which I will have to access in case of any issue. What I will do is leave the door open fully and then set the tables. I have accounted for some space on the right hand wall due to the radiator so hopefully it should be fine or at the max, I might have to do minor adjustment to the table and layout. This should resolve the problem and would avoid any access issue and also fiddling with tracks and the layout once it is hammered on.
  6. Hi all, inspired by all the examples and ideas from other members on this thread, I have prepared the attached draft layout. I have tried to cover everything that my son was hoping for but also kept the mainline simple with 2 parallel ovals. There are no inclines or R1 curves. I have also kept the tracks on right top table to the minimum so that I can move that table with some but hopefully minimal fuss. The tracks in red need to be cut to enable removing the table. The idea is to use the GWR HST and Eurostar as mainline trains, Scotsman for connecting the branch line and Blue highlander as the goods carriage. I am open to any feedback or critique. It needs to work which is the most important and preferrable outcome.
  7. @RobinofLoxley, I am thinking of running the cables under the cork roll, and if needed create channels underneath. If it works then the turnouts on the dining table should not be an issue. All the tables are of the same height, but I will get those extenders on Amazon for any minute adjustments. Everything is on paper at the moment. I am sure I will face many challenges when I will start the model building. Keeping fingers crossed.
  8. @Chimer and @ITG, I see where you are coming from. I have still not finalised the layout yet. The ideas from other members on here is for inspiration and most likely I will end up with a much simpler version which will cover all or some of my son’s requests. I guess the real depth and dimension of any model is from the setting I.E diorama, village, people, road structure etc. So even if I end up with 2 parallel ovals, there is a lot that my son and I can enjoy by creating various scenarios. This is my thought process for now. @Chimer, my son is 6 years old but blame me for taking him to various model railway shows etc., that his expectations are far higher :) It is actually funny that he rather prefers pushing the trains on the track manually and making engine noises as opposed to using the controller. But I think he will get around to using the controller and turnout switches once we have a full model.
  9. @ITG, the plan is to run the wiring under the cork roll (4mm). I am not looking at a complicated wiring set-up. DC power to the tracks, turnouts and maybe a couple of street lights. This initial layout is an experiment and probably once I move to a permanent place, I will then draw upon this experience and maybe build something complex. Time will tell, though :)
  10. @Glob-Ally, do you mind sharing the plan with the part numbers please? Many thanks. I have come up with the attached baseboard plan by using the current dining table and getting 4 IKEA LINNMON table tops with additional legs. I plan to lay cork roll on top of the table to achieve a flat surface throughout and avoid drilling the tables. The nearer 70cm of the dining table is what I plan to utilize so that I would be able to access all the areas. There is enough space in the middle for both my son and I to sit/stand. The tables will be 70cm high so hopefully I should be able to crawl under. This removes the need for any lifting flat. And with the tables being standard size, I should be able to dismantle and re-fix them in the new house, when I move out of here. Only part I need to think about is access to the under stairs cupboard. It houses our jackets and travel bags. Will see how/what I do to achieve this.
  11. Thanks everyone for your replies. I got bogged down with work related travel but am back now and picking up the planning. I am exploring how to get the baseboard sorted. Will keep you aware how this goes. @Glob-Ally, this is brilliant. Seems to cover everything my son is looking for. I will assess how this layout fits in the actual space I will end up with, once the baseboards are sorted.
  12. Thanks @The Johnster, @RobinofLoxley, @ITG for your comments. So valuable and insightful. I get where you all are coming from. The only aspect I struggle with is creating a continous loop. The IKEA Lack tables are only 45cm high so there is no way I can crawl under it. Hence, I left that space at the bottom left for access. I know that 45cm is too low and will impact my back, but it is the perfect height for my son. @RobinofLoxley, are you able to share your draft layout with Hornby part numbers please? Many thanks again for taking the effort to design it.
  13. @RobinofLoxley, this is great work and inspiring. Many thanks. I have been fiddling with the ideas that I got here and came up with the below: 1. Use IKEA Lack tables to create the baseboard. These come in 2 sizes, 90cmX55cm and 55cmX55cm which can be fit around the room. I looked at laser cut kits but they are coming up too expensive for my needs. 2. Leave space at the bottom of the layout for physical access for my son and I. 3. Deeper top end to add depth to scenic. Now, based on the available working space, I did some work on AnyRail and came up with the attached layout. 1. Terminus at the bottom left for 4 trains. More than I need but my son can play getting the trains into various platforms. 2. One platform in the terminus to be dedicated to good delivery. 3. No 1st radius curves or gradients. I know there are 2 r604s in the plan but will have to swap them. 4. Enough scope for scenaries. Where I need your help and critique: 1. Does this layout work? Anything I should add or remove? Want to check before I move any further. 2. I tried various combinations but am unable to come up with the tracks coming into the terminus. What I would like is points so that any train on any track can get to any platform. 3. I have placed the turntable on the right bottom corner so that the engines can get into the shed. I am not 100% sure this is the best use of space. Any other ideas? Or can someone help with connecting the tracks to achieve the turntable function? I remain grateful for all the ideas I received so far. Don't think I can share the AnyRail file on here. This is my first ever layout from scratch so please be kind :)
  14. Thanks @RobinofLoxley, @Chimer, and @Harlequin. I drew a quick floor plan (attached). I will fiddle with AnyRail using these measurements and see how it goes. @RobinofLoxley, I sense my son likes "any rail with a nose" LOL so most likely era 11. But he likes a goods carriage too. It's never easy, is it :)
  15. Thanks @Harlequin. This is a great suggestion. On the other thread it was stated that you provide layout design as a service. I am keen to understand what that entails and how do I go about it please. Better than banging my head about on the details and use the first layout as a learning for future projects. Thanks.
  16. Thank you, @The Johnster for such an elaborate reply and explanation. I could envision the layout as I read through your post. @Harlequin, I can dismantle the whole dining table and store it against one of the walls or in another room. No one cares, as I live alone. And as @The Johnster highlighted, as long as I do not do any permanent change to the property, including driving screws and nails anywhere, my landlord should be content. I can then get 2 bar stools and start using the table in picture 2 as the dining space. The space under the stairs needs access for storage. TT120 looks promising and I can consider it. I just have to think how do I get rid of the scores of 00 gauge tracks I have now :)
  17. Long story short, I am back to square one with designing the layout following some good advise from the seasoned modellers here (discussion under another topic). I have zero experience and am doing it as a project with my son. How and where do I start? Space I have (see attached photos): I currently rent following divorce so cannot opt for a permanent layout. The dining room (pic 1) can be converted into a full time model space. Pic 2 has a nice space with a platform which is ideal but I doubt if trains can go round in such a tight space Pic 3 again has a nice space and the advantage of keeping my dining space Expectations from the layout: Minimum 3 trains (2 passenger and probably 1 goods). Two passengers if three is not possible at all. 2 - 3 stations (must have) Points (must have) Road(s) for model cars, busses etc. (must have) A tunnel (must have) Double level crossing (must have) Shed (good to have) Turntable (good to have if space is available) No gradients No 1st curves (?) Current rolling stock: GWR HST Eurostar HST Blue Highlander Flying Scotsman Am I aiming high here or is something possible in the given space? If yes, where should I start? I have AnyRail and tried a few layouts but each time there was something I missed and then had to scrap everything.
  18. Thanks again, everyone. Really helpful and useful information. I will post my requirements in the Layout Design section and see where I go from there.
  19. Thanks Phil. You capture the emotion so well. Space is a constraint, unfortunately, and 8X4 is the largest I can go for.
  20. Thank you @zarniwhoop, @Dungrange, @The Johnster, @ianLMS, @RobinofLoxley, @Joseph_Pestell and @NBL for sharing your invaluable and unselfish inputs. I will share my takeaways below, as opposed to trying to address various points: 1. Layout is key. I tried AnyRail to create one from scratch but got lost soon and gave up. Then I paid someone on Ebay to create a layout for me which did not materialise. So I just picked up a layout off of the internet that remotely seemed to meet my son and my criteria. I did not realize, and have no ability to identify that there were gradients and 1st radius curve in the selected layout. I still have no clue what those red lines mean! :) I will have to go back to the drawing board and re-assess how I will design and finalize a layout. Anyone knows anyone who can help with designing a layout? Apologies if this is an inappropriate question but starting on a layout is a herculean and a confusing challenge for someone new . 2. I should start basic i.e. with DC control. It will keep the costs down and help develop the skills, experience and more importantly, interest. It will also cover me in case my son (and I) lose interest later. 3. Space and accessibility is important. Thankfully I do have enough space to go around an 8X4 baseboard. 4. The model is for my son but I am also getting him interested in technology. I am a massive gadget and automation geek hence was the initial thought of merging both areas of interests. 5. I was not particular about the train sets that I now possess. I have collected them over time, since my son first showed interest; and to be honest, I might have paid under £150 (through bidding) for all 4 sets. So a bargain in a sense. If the sets I have don't work, I can resell them and get what might fit the layout so there is flexibility. Thanks again, everyone. If you have any more thoughts, please share.
  21. Thanks @Kris. I should have mentioned that there will be sounds and lights in the layout so it has to be a DCC.
  22. Hi All, A complete newbie to model railway here. I am confused with the level of information out there and thought I might ask the experts. I recently got divorced and was looking to take up a project with my 6 year old son to keep him occupied and engaged but also as a father-son time. My son loves the Lego mini land and his eyes light up whenever we come across a model. So I thought, why not. I started reading about this hobby but soon got overwhelmed. I bid on a 8X4 ready made layout on eBay real cheap and ended up winning. When I went to collect the layout, I realized the seller made a blunder with the measurements. It was a 12X7 layout. There is no way this will fit in my house so I declined the collection. The seller however, gave me a big box of model railway tracks, buildings, Hornby Select controller (doesnt work though), and a Hornby e-Link free of cost. I went back to square one. For now, I have narrowed down on the attached layout (8X4), as it meets my son’s expectations: 2-3 trains, shed, couple of stations, turntable, space for sceneries. I initially thought of going with a computer controlled model but am having second thoughts as my son might not find it interesting. My questions are: Any immediate flaws or limitations in this layout one can think of? I got this from freetrackplans. What do I need to have a hybrid kind of a control whereby I can control everything via computer including automation, but also use physical switches for points to switch train routes as an alternative for my son? I presume I will have to go the DCC way. If yes, what items do I need to get to achieve the above apart from a DCC controller? A decoder for each of the trains? Anything else? Which DCC controller and set-up should I start with. I can spend money but do not want to break the bank. I know this question is like- how long is a piece of thread but what controller would you recommend to your younger self when you started from scratch? I have the following trains which I got cheap off of Ebay: GWR HST Eurostar HST Blue Highlander Flying Scotsman Once again, apologies if my questions are too basic but it is better to ask for help than end up making costly mistakes. I would really appreciate any help I can get to move forward with this project. Many thanks.
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