Smalltrainsgreatpains

I think I have found my ideal medium in Freemo americaN. It would fit my ideas well, industrial and ST (Shelf Table) makes it possible to build short line sections first and attach to a 'main' later on. I may get some end plates cut at a laser shop to keep in stock for builds. https://www.fremo-net.eu/en/american https://www.youtube.com/@BRND1966/videos I discovered Panguaneta poplar throughout ply is used for some commercial laser cut benchwork, I thought it might compare to Baltic Birch for stability. Has a builder tried this as an alternative to BB? What isn't too clear is the ply end plate standards for the industrial and ST Modules. Has anyone here made such modules and have any pictures?

As has been pointed out on here to my surprise, Mech models have/can get on order Badger rail colours. I picked up a 1709 Midwestern railroads set, which also has CNW colours. My main concern was being able to order more individual colours, rather than buying the whole set again. Should do for small scales for a while, but not so economical for larger scales.

Is it possible to sell on the remnants of my old HO gear here? Some boxcars and an engine. I was going to use ebay, but discovered there are even more fees now. I thought of going rm web premium, but it doesn't make any sense for the sale of one box of stuff. It's not a business deal, just a hobby level trade I can 'recycle' into N scale. I would even consider a swap for Milw/Midwestern N scale.

After many years of longing and agonising joint pain, I bought something to ease it all away. Joanlab VM-300S vortex mixer acquired. About £30 on Aliexpress plus the rest and fast shipping. Feels quite weighty and has a small desktop form factor with mains switch mode PSU. The only job it struggled with are 28ml Humbrol washes in glass jars, to much mass to get going very well and compacted after many years of sitting. It sure beats flinging paint everywhere with a stirrer :o)

Wow, good find, I missed that one. Tamiya X-4 looks close to Conrail blue, might work with a bit of blending.

I guess the finish on a model is all down to personal preference. What do you all use in regards to varnishes and sealers, acrylic, enamels?

Sorry to but in, but may I ask if there are trigger activated single action brushes?

I don't really know the particulars needed for fine lining work, but I am willing to give it a go, following Ian Rathbones excellent videos. Maybe someone would knows what and where to get a bow pen for fine work in tiny scales?

Badger/MODELflex have a good range of paints, but I'm having difficulties finding a European suppler. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places?

Thank you for that. Some stores say that it is the last in stock. It does seem that range is on the way out?

I see you are a pro painter, complete polar opposite of the spectrum lol. Ok, it is currently for repainting detailed commercial plastic bodied North American N scale 1:160 models of Milwaukee road prototype Diesel locomotives. There are also some steam examples that I will gradually detail all of them to build a roster of locomotives to run on a future layout. In time I aim to be good at painting any model, and right now am researching accumulating a lot of stuff for the application, and some skills. I aim to have a fine art approach to everything. There will also be etched brass signals, period automobiles, wood and plastic structure kits, hand built track, the works. I'm going to use weathering, unless I have a fresh from the shops example such as a demonstrator or museum piece. There appear to be variations in the colours that are hotly disputed by many, but being a mere 6000 miles from the nearest relevant museum I have to rely on books, the internet and 'artistic licence'. There are some commercial railroad hobby paints available but not a complete range, only available for airbrush and are pricey so am investigating mixing colours and formulations from auto paint stores, other hobby brands and so on.

I'm planning to get some paints mixed for airbrushing and brushing, learning how to paint models to a high standard and putting together a compressor setup etc. There seems to be a choice of practically any finish available from paint mixers, so I am guessing as to what to get. From following what I have seem in military modelling videos, I guess a primer, then an acrylic base coat of some sort, then decals, then a clear acrylic matt varnish to seal, followed by oil/enamel washes if desired, maybe some weathering powders and finally a varnish to finish. What isn't apparent is the base coat to use, should it be gloss, satin or matt. Can someone please advise of what base coats to use? If I were to order a paint base colour mix, what should I ask for regarding application to regular plastic/brass models? https://oval.co.uk/shop/allis-chalmers-orange-m22-v1-2/

I have some Tru-Colour on the way, but I couldn't see any 213 1930-60's Frt. Car Brown. I hear they are excellent, but they do cost a lot, I would be glad to find alternatives. It's currently the Milw colours I am after, and steam engine colours. I'll take the orange out to match later. There were two oranges apparently, so maybe I'll be able to find the other one. Photographs do seem to vary, especially as the quality of the film used differs. If I blend some colours I will put them on the list. I think it is more important to get the quality even across all the models as a standard than perhaps the exact colour, then nothing will look out of place :D I have everything to learn about the qualities of paint and mixing.

Not to surprisingly, there are very few American rail paint colours available in Europe. This leads me to ask how other American modellers get the correct paint for there models. Mostly for airbrush, would like the option for brushing. Are there some colour charts for comparison? Have you managed to get some paint mixed somewhere? Is there a guide on blending hobby paints?

I thought to try some inks for stains and weathering structures, India ink being recommended by old school modellers. Then I discovered there are also acrylic inks. Can they be used as a substitute for each other as washes, do they work just as well? Water proof or not? I bought a lot of low cost acrylic paints from stores like the range to use for structures and scenic. Is there anything to acrylic paint breaking down over time?

I am thinking of standardising on this for home layouts. Makes reconfiguration and portability much easier. Could even run temporary extensions out the door into the next room :) Has anyone gone this way? Got any pics of modules/construction? http://free-mon.net/ https://nrail.org/Free-moN

I got a hold of a train-o-matic LoKommander, and an FDMicro, not much difference in price from Lais. Plus nearly as as tiny as the Loksound 4. It will take some figuring out with JMRI to program. It makes sense about differing decoder/motor combinations, as decoders are basically advanced speed controllers with varying frequencies. I'm not sure this is clear to raw beginners, as there seems to be a little more to it than strait up plug and play. Time to make my own list.

I could use some information on N scale/2mm decoders, such as best overall economy/performance. I hear wonders about Zimo, and then train-o-matic Lokommander 2 as a close second as far as regular non sound go. Lais still the stuff for secondary features? Loksound are apparently the best audio, but I can't find the one I put away :( I definitely want to program in speed steps up to a calibrated scale speed, appropriate to the loco job. It looks like some have brakes functions. Is there such a thing as an up to date decoder list highlighting all the features of various decoders?

I'm considering getting a 3d print set up to work on my own goodies that I would struggle to build otherwise. I have to learn plenty cad. Playing with the idea of a proto-freelancing a MILW passenger terminal. There was a post on here some years ago about an F40C using the Kato SD40-2 chassis. Maybe the author would consider putting the files up somewhere for download? Or do people only resell them from a vendor? I would like to beat the expense and quality of shapeways for personal models, no lines or postage. It's not for profit, It would save a ton of work on producing a nice model and introduce me to printing something useful. An potential nooby project, nothing is decided yet, I will see how it goes.

Thanks for the helpful and informative posts. Magazines on the way to fill in the gaps in the MT collection. It's been bugging me for the years they were missing, but I couldn't quite remember why. That build it in N scale series had me fixated lol. Those bookzines are really hard to find, I only found mention of one and that has gone. I'll have to keep searching. I have the Armstrong book, I'm well impressed by Model Railroader, even the early ones from the thirties. It would be good to come up with a plan that could cover all era's, from the earliest engines all the way up to say 80's-90's in Proto-Freelance flavour. Passenger ops don't appear to be done very often, but small terminals take up very little space...

During an unrelated search, I stumbled upon some old posts referencing Airfix model trains magazine and Chris Ellis. That got my attention, as I have a small pile of magazines I picked up used in the ninety's, and carted the whole lot back home several miles balanced on the seat of my bicycle. They are the way I consider a model rail magazine should be published, it made it accessible to study and build a model with minimal outlay and maximum international interest. I was thrilled to find a window on the world of American railroading, an interest that started with a direct early influence from a visiting American family, whom we had known for a number of years in the eighty's. I was given a number of Railroading books featuring massive locomotives, and a lesson on the constitution :) Whilst North American Railroads are still my primary 'thing', I don't know anywhere as much as I would like to and am on the hunt for reference material. I have some books but there's always room for more :) I chose the MILW for a primary 'art subject' to try to avoid random spending and get something finished:) I didn't know didn't Chris Ellis had any books published what with it being rather pre-internet at the time. Perhaps someone knows of the most appropriate titles/unmissable volumes to building American short-lines etc? It seems that a further magazine was established, Scale Rails International, maybe there are some back copy's that are recommend?

I'm heavily inspired by this guy, he is a professional layout builder and an absolute legend in my opinion. I got most of my contemporary construction ideas from him. They are mostly geared toward the permanent layout , but it gave me some idea how to get away from the 'baseboard' and how to get into plywood for 'bench work'. Most are bigger than the average British house ground floor, but one day... My current 'prototypes' are North American N scale With a Milwaukee Road flavour which has opportunities for some spectacular bridges and terrain, the Ma and Pa which is a basically a 1:1 model railroad, and a whimsical estate narrow gauge 'thing' in 7mm. All require different construction approaches with plenty of flexibility in design. I was bitter in having to tear out my old layouts during past house moves and swore never to build anything that rigid in location again, so light weight in small scales seems appropriate with the ability to remove sections to work on separately with the minim of fuss, perhaps being held in place by using powerful magnets or clips. It might seem a lot of engineering to some but I consider it worth it in the long run. I have had far to many 'fun' things turn into stress by lack of planning, poor tools and limited resources that I came to regret in the future.

I've gone with getting a portable table saw. I have wanted one for many years and seriously struggled without one. It's a Dewalt and will be secured onto it's own wheeled stand, very compact and lightweight for a site tool, and good enough for amateur cabinet work. The accuracy is paramount as any wasted effort faffing about costs me dearly. I operate on a basis of knowing what I need to do, get up, do it, sit down, rest and repeat until I can't manage anymore or the job is done. I can barely move at that point so ergonomics matter as the whole lot has to be put away. I can build some combined furniture/layouts at last, somewhere to put all those books! Part of me is in tears about all the engines I could have bought, the rest of me is relieved that I will finally have somewhere to use what I already have. I have pulled absolute treasure out of the trash including computers, a telephone exchange, massive network switch and timber that's now part of my bus, office desks, a supermarket cage, and a hardwood table to turn into jigs. Be prepared to be stared at though...there just jealous I found it first I would have been hard pressed to afford any of those or more often struggle to locate them. If anyone accuses you of hording, correct them that a hoard is actually a treasure stash. I find It necessary to buy all forms of goods this way as I might not be able to go out, weather it's for a sack of flour or a box of screws. Buy once get it once, buy the tool get infinite creative potential.

Some thoughts/questions on what to do. I have some experience working with wood, most of is constructional rather than aesthetic. Built an 8x4 timber frame once plus still working on a camper. Timber Trying to design and budget for layout materials. Where might one purchase strait high quality timber, is all of it banana wood? I thought of investing in a thicknesser/planer which appear to be around £300-£500, but it seems that I may also need a table saw and there's not much room (or budget) for that sort of thing. Portability is a factor. I have got some tools but everything I do now is mobility adapted in some way and can be justified if it boosts quality of life/actually getting things done. Or Plywood I can see birch ply is recommended. I wonder if marine ply would be of a high enough grade, supposedly being free from voids? It's not clear if marine ply is the same as cabinet grade, the finish wont matter under paint. I can get free delivery of marine and 'regular' ply if I Spend £100. Delivery for birch costs more than one sheet! I'm going to struggle to cut sheets into many strips with a track saw. I would need (12mm?) ply cut into strips before delivery about 100mm wide, strips for sides, ends and cross bracing My idea is to use an integral backdrop 300mm height for 2mm scale, 600mm for 7mm scale. (More than one project), I can keep a stock of these strips flat, ready to use on future projects. Cheaper thin ply or hardboard for fascia. Will curve easily and let me do a proscenium arch style front. There is a new brand of ply sold as a birch substitute, Garnica. I'd be interested if there's is a walk in store that could cut it to size, remotely close to east Anglia. Top surface and Hardware I have some sheets of extruded XPS foam ready and waiting. May go two sheets deep so I can dig down onto a ply top? I can also cheap out and get some Lionboard which is like a budget Sundeala, depending on project. DCC concepts dowels to align or the brass cabinet makers type. Plywood 'L' legs and height adjusters. This will be for transportable construction for now so rules out the Ian Rice L girder. There are some really good looking lasercut board kits but I need the flexibility to adapt odd corners and stretch the budget out. Hope you get what I'm trying to say here, It's difficult to put all these potential factors together into words

I may have found a Farish J39 as a donor. The seller wants to keep the motor/chassis for spares. Are there any other original parts other than the original loco and tender body needed for 2fs chassis kit conversion?