TyBryn

Hi 25kv, does the period of time that you mention, see quote, refer to the time spent in the IPA solution IN THE ULTRASONIC CLEANER?

Many thanks once again to the last 2 repondents. You have provided some very valuable information and a great deal of encouragement. I have been collecting "junk" bodies for some time for this very project with didn't think I would be practicing paint stripping on them. It all makes perfect sense. Many thanks everyone.

Many thanks SteveM666 and dj_crisp for your replies. dj_crisp, what would you recommend to strip the manufacturer's paint without adversly affecting the plastic of the body? If you have time I would appreciate it if you could expand on stripping the original paintwork. Thanks.

I have some RTR locos in "Big Four" livery that I want to repaint in first era BR outfits. The locos are from various manufacturers. Because of ventilation concerns in my small modelling room, I would prefer to use acrylic paint in my airbrush. I am new to all of this so I would like to ask that, after thorough cleaning and de-greasing:- 1. what further preparations need to be done to the original paintwork? 2. do I need to apply some sort of primer on top of the original paint? If so can this be an acrylic primer? 3. can I apply an acrylic colour directly onto the original paint? 4. I want to paint the locos in BR green; is this described as Brunswick Green? Many thanks in anticipation of your helpful advice.

Thanks for your reply. I'm not very experienced when it comes to stuff "under the bonnet" but the motor connections do not look as if they have been touched which makes the situation so puzzling. It looks as if swapping the leads to the motor over is the only solution and it is easily reversed in the future. Very strange.

I bought this loco as a non-runner but very good cosmetic condition and no box. The model revealed itself to be DCC fitted but with no blanking plug. I fitted a generic blankng plug but the loco runs backwards when it should run forwards and vice versa on DC. It seems to be an excellent runner so I want to get it running on DC correctly but notice that the motor is mounted with the worm drive at the rear of the motor. Before I unsolder and swap over the connections to the motor, is there a blanking plug designed for this situation and, if so, where do I get it from please?

Thanks for your reply Cypherman but Hroth gets to the heart of it. The blanking plug has arrived and is fitted. Loco works perfectly. Now that I have tested the loco with DC and blanking plate can I assume that, with a working decoder and DCC controller, it will continue to function properly with DCC?

That's very reasuring Robert; thanks for your prompt reply.

Hi, I have just bought a used Bachmann 32-355 Class 4MT Tank on ebay and found that it has no blanking plug and so a non-runner. Looking at the 8-pin socket there is no marker to show which way round the plug should be fitted. I have ordered a generic plug NEM 652 from DCC Supplies. Is it safe to try the plug in either direction?

Many thanks to both of you for your prompt replies. Although it says Bachmann on the baseplate I am now pretty sure the loco is from Replica.

I bought a Bachman B1in LNER black with ringfield motor driving the rearmost driving wheels which should have traction tyres but mine are missing. This makes the loco give a whiring sound when in motion and the driven wheels are a little wobbly. I would like to fit new tyres but I can't find any. Can anyone help please?

I have an Airfic Class 31 and a Horby Class 37, would fitting flush windows significantly improve the appearance of these oo gauge models? I would be grateful for any advice. Thanks.