down the sdjr

I am building an EM gauge turnout for the passing loop/ fiddle yard for Henstridge. I was showing my wife the difference between code 75 EM 18.2 mm, code 75 Peco 00 gauge Bull Head rail and Peco streamline code 100.(just trying to convince her it's necessary really).

Thought I would post a pic if anyone wants to compare. I think the Peco bullhead rail looks really good, a move forward in RTR track I think.

3 hours ago, doilum said:

If in doubt go for "11"!

Don't tempt me, I do have another hobby other than trains. The soldering iron may be 75w but these beauties are 300w each speaker cab.

I must admit, I have bought a DCC cobalt ip analogue to try on a few points before I decide any further action. I like that you can wire them in with switches and a power supply, no need for a driver or control unit. DC.

@hayfieldWhat temperature do you use for nickel rail? 350?

Looks nice.

When I need to make any tile ridges I use strips of Aluminium kitchen foil. Looks nice when painted up.

8 hours ago, Andymsa said:

I be interested how you get on with it as I’m tempted to get one for the work bench  

I am a bit of a beginner when it comes to soldering, so I don't think I could give a review with my limited knowledge. But.

I have been using it today to solder some nickel silver code 75 bullhead rails together at 350 degrees, it heats up really quick I mean in seconds, works nice, but I am going to have to get used to it.

It's got an inactive auto shut down that you can set between 10mins to 99mins. That's good for forgetful me.

On 25/11/2020 at 21:24, Jack Benson said:

The Yard Office - 2

 

The Airfix/Dapol CO11 Coal Yard office must date from the 1960s but it is a nice kit that fits together and depicts a wooden 'shiplap' building that are still common(ish).

These are the main components, the walls were joined over 24hrs ago to ensure that everything is square and true.

 

 

The colour scheme will be SR green and cream using the standard colours previously used for Beaminster Road.

The roof and ridge tiles are not particularly good and might be replaced whilst the windows will be fitted by placing the frames inside the walls rather than outside.

 

This thread will be updated as work is progressed.

 

Cheers and Stay Safe

Hi Jack,

How is this building coming along. I am not familiar with this Dapol kit.

Paul.

The circuit specialist 75w station and 10 extra tips was delivered at 8.30am today after ordering yesterday. That was speedy delivery.

Time to do some tinning.

21 hours ago, Phil Parker said:

Powerflow flux works for both after all

As a plumber by trade this is what I use, it's great for tinning.

40 minutes ago, doilum said:

cheap iron and investing in an RSU.

Would that be a regulated supply unit? Alter the power before the iron?

1 hour ago, Torper said:

Having said that, if I was looking for one now I'd be quite tempted by the CSI unit mentioned by Hayfield and Andy Hayter, if only because of its 75w power rating.

I ordered one just after I posted above, Had a text about an hour later to say it's in the post already to be delivered Monday. That's a fast service.

10 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Don't use suppliers who use eBays global shipping program, this is the one I bought are is great for whitemetal at 300 degrees, plus get some different tips, larher tips for larger shops

 

https://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron/

 

This company has a range  of irons at differing prices, get a quote for shipping, also if you are out of the EU they mad do VAT free sales

Is this one good for track work, common crossings etc?

Been working on the coal siding with a trap point.

Another turnout built and in place on the north section for the horse box siding, one of my favourite bits of Blandford, I must get a nice horse box to sit in here.

Using 1F 41708 for test runs with a Midland inspection coach that seems to run well over my clunky hand made points.

@martin_wynne

Thank you, not only for pointing me in the direction of Templot companion but also taking the time to produce such wonderful graphic guides. A really great piece of software you have produced.

Thanks again.

Paul.

Thanks for the replies.

@IzzyThat works a treat.

Sorry if the question has been asked before, did a quick search but found nothing.

Does Templot have a catch or trap point plan? Or am I missing something? I would like to put one in the coal siding coming off the main line at Blandford.

I don't know who to credit the photo to.

Maybe the best way to do it would be to model a non-working one with a switch rail?

26 minutes ago, SDJR7F88 said:

This is what I've done so far.

Looking good already.

The Wills bridge kits are really good and come with enough parts for 2 bridges, good value imo. I modify mine slightly, I add a brick profile around the bottom of the arches as they are on most of the bridges on the southern section. Not sure if they are the same further north.

33 minutes ago, SDJR7F88 said:

Looks at pictures (and seeing the structure during a visit a few years back) it appears to be a real patch work of stone / engineering and red brick. Was the structure originally stone and patch up with brick or the other way around (my guess is the Red Brick sections are patch repairs). 

I don't have any photos of Lyncombe Vale but many structures on the S&D seem to be built / repaired in the same way.

These are the bridge bases at Sturminster Newton, a mix of stone and engineers bricks.

Evening Star passing Stourpaine and Durweston halt with a local down stopping service.

Work on Henstridge has been slow, I have been building track for a while and learning the ropes. I have a new DCC cobalt point motor to try, see if I get better running over the Peco EMGS turnouts than with the Smart switch units that keep shorting, I must be doing something wrong but I have tried everything. The other option would be to use the Peco servos to drive working point rodding, only 2 points at Henstridge pulled on the same GF lever.

I have scratch built the corrugated shed that will sit in the overgrown goods siding. I also have a set of Ultrascale wheels for a Bachmann 3F 0-6-0 being delivered tomorrow.

37 minutes ago, Blandford1969 said:

I did work up some plans a good few years ago based on dimensions available and lots of photos if of any interest?

I spent this afternoon looking through this forum for information. I notice you and many other posters have been doing this stuff for years.

Any plans, photos etc would be appreciated.

Thank you.

On 06/06/2020 at 21:07, tingleytim said:

Very pleased that a picture I took 56 years ago should have inspired somebody!  A good few years ago I thought Blandford would make a very good subject for a model, as the local club later confirmed, and in fine style.  I got as far as working out how much space would be needed but then decided to look further up the line.  Good luck with your project.

Hi Tim,

Over the summer I cleared a section of my layout to make room for Blandford. I started to learn how to make track as I love the curve Blandford is on. Just starting to lay the track now, early days but thought I would post a pic.

I am surface wiring at the moment to test running quality of the turnouts.

A view north.

Using any models lying around to test building and Salisbury street bridge positions.

Paul.

Its looking really good.

I have recently had a EMGS delivery. Sleepers, 3 bolt chairs, sliding chairs, code 75 bullhead rail and copper clad strip.

I like the Exactoscale chairs big and easy to adjust.

Todays effort.

43 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

 

To make the tiebar a little obvious, swap the tiebar for the third timber. I take it one step further buy using brass slide chairs.

 

 I cut the outside part of the chair from the slide plate, the slide plates are soldered to the tiebar The switch blades are then soldered to the plates. The timber is now the tiebar. I finish off by soldering the chair outsides to the stock rails, as the tiebar moves the chairs stay on the rail sides. You can then attach the operating mechanism any way (under, through on top)

 

Thats a great solution, really nice.