Jump to content
 

Welsh Signaller

Members
  • Posts

    284
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Welsh Signaller

  1. I marked with the assistance of my wife the centre line of the track before cutting which ensured a steady 7cm gap either side of the sleeper ends. A look I’m quite pleased with now the track has been laid (temporarily) on the boards

     

     

     

  2. Just now, Nearholmer said:

    Hmmm indeed!

     

    Another thing to consider is what posts to use. After digging out and replacing many rotten fence posts in many gardens, I will now only use either concrete posts, or changes concrete spur-posts for fences, and for a raised railway I would use either the same, or recycled plastic posts.

     

    I was looking at aluminium posts of a nice thick diameter, I’ve been some online which are part of a range that include fixing to attach to the underside of the boards.

     

    i really should of listened in science as I don’t recall if aluminium rusts ?

  3. The return loop is in end area of 8ft square, but with a huge hole in the middle so I’ve had to use two 8ft x 4ft sheets of ply, I’ll need to join them once I'm ready erect the boards with legs.

     

    With board one of two cut, work commenced on the tricky S bend cut...

    I’m rather pleased how it’s turned out once it’s been sanded.

     

  4. The return loop is in end area of 8ft square, but with a huge hole in the middle so I’ve had to use two 8ft x 4ft sheets of ply, I’ll need to join them once I'm ready erect the boards with legs.

     

    With board one of two cut, work commenced on the tricky S bend cut...

    I’m rather pleased how it’s turned out once it’s been sanded.

     

     

  5. 2 minutes ago, Nearholmer said:

    Beware ye!

     

    Plywood is surprisingly difficult to weatherproof to an acceptable degree for this application, and if you want it to really last, you might be better using recycled plastic boarding from a firm called Filcris.

     

    If you are sold on plywood, the best weatherproofing i’ve found is two good coats of Ronseal exterior primer/undercoat, followed by two top coats of their exterior gloss. By the time you’ve done that, the plastic board might work out cheaper.

     

    When I had exactly your situation and spec to meet (the footballs only get heavier and faster, by the way!), I created a low 9” brick wall as a trackbed - a bit OTT, but i’d Tried all sorts of other methods on previous railways, and wanted this one to last, which it has seven years so far, despite constant bombardment.

     

    Good morning! 

     

    Its excellent to hear from someone who’s been here, and weathered the process it sounds. I’ve committed to the 12mm ply now, so I think i might well have to go down the road you have with multiple coats of paints.

     

    The plan is for the boards to be approx 4ft off the ground, were bordered in three sides so the boy is under strict instructions not to kick his ball off the ground...hmmm...

  6. With two 8ft x 4ft 12mm ply sheets delivered from the local handyman shop, it was time to mark out the tricky curves with have a S bend on the return.

     

    I even managed to obtain the assistance of my wife, bonus !

     

    Shes even said the golden words of, if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing well !

     

    Hence the rather expensive 12mm ply and no expensive spared method of construction.

     

    With both sheets marked out it was time to cut the wood, it’s tough stuff to run a jig sea through !

     

    There is a significant amount of waste wood, however I’ve tried to cut it as efficiently as possible so it’ll all be used elsewhere.

     

     

  7. With two 8ft x 4ft 12mm ply sheets delivered from the local handyman shop, it was time to mark out the tricky curves with have a S bend on the return.

     

    I even managed to obtain the assistance of my wife, bonus !

     

    Shes even said the golden words of, if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing well !

     

    Hence the rather expensive 12mm ply and no expensive spared method of construction.

     

  8. This is the out and back return loop which will sit behind the small wall to the top of the picture.

     

    Im using peco set track o gauge sections for the return loops, with flexi track for the long straight run across the back of the garden where each single line will have a loop either side.

     

     

  9. The house is only three years old so happily benefits from a level’ish, large garden to play with - I’ve been allowed to build the loop from right to back to left and back.

     

    As I’ve three kids, one of who is football mad there’s a requirement to keep as much green space as possible for his football playing.

     

  10. 1Morning all, after more years than I can remember a house move has allowed permission to be granted for a garden / garage railway !

     

    Initially the plan is to build a “simple” out and back return loop around the upper end of the garden, then once the garage has been converted to warm, temperature controlled storage space I’ll be extending one end of the loop in.

     

    Im not appreciating the garage being down until next year, so effort is being concentrated on getting the single line with loops out and back built.

     

    My plan is to use 12mm ply painted in waterproof paint, faced with stripe wood also painted to protect the gain, then seal the edges against the strap and base to prevent water egress. The boards will be sorted on stainless steel or aluminium tube cemented into the ground, hopefully this approach will provide a level and secure foundation for decades to come.

     

    So here we go....

×
×
  • Create New...