TrainMan2001

Had to do a second post for these: Oh, by the way, the cab sides will be filed to shape.

After the whole "is it scaling properly" breakdown, I took a few weeks to think about what I'd really want from a "fine-scale Thomas" model. I was torn between trying to make the "most-accurate" Classic-style Thomas, and doing a hyper-realistic version to try to show some rivet counters that an engine with a face can be done realistically, but I wasn't really thinking about doing the thing that I wanted. Ironically, I guess, what I want to do kind of falls between the two options, leaning towards realism. I also want to push my boundaries to see what I can do (hence the talk of inside valve gear). Upon realizing that the Computer-Generated model of Thomas actually has the wheel size that matches the ones I'm using for Thomas, I decided that doing a model that takes my favorite elements from the RWS drawing, Classic TV model, CGI model, and real E2 would be more along the lines of what I want. Hence what is happening now (and it's actually happening). Today, what I did was cut the rear of the footplate off, so that I can graft in a smaller rear bufferbeam (and accommodate a cab floor) which is similar to how Thomas looks in both the RWS and the CGI series. I also cut out the cab sides, which takes inspiration from both the Classic Series and RWS. I'm also trying to cut out the false splashers from the running plate, so that I can make a new inner part to the running plate that can allow for inside motion to work and support the underside of the boiler (which will hold the motor). I also cut off the remainder of the filled-in cab from the Bachmann model. I also did a little bit to start a new project I might do on and off for a little while, since I kind of messed up the LMS CCT van kit while I was cleaning up the flashing on the sides. I cut down the van sides to be shorter, and with a little work, will be made into a "Pre-Grouping style" parcels van, which will be from an early Sodor railway (not decided on which one yet). The underframe of the van kit is a good length for me to do a Works-Unit coach, as seen in the first series, but will take the orange livery from the RWS/CGI series. I've always really liked that coach (weird, right?) because one of my first DVDs had Thomas and the Breakdown Train on it. Here are some pictures:

I have actually been somewhat open to converting to EM if necessary, and that would actually solve the bearing issue, because I could choose a different size axle. The only thing I was worried about was inability to do exhibitions, being in the United States. I don't think people do EM Gauge here. Although I shouldn't worry about that, since I that will all probably be a few years away.

Obligatory (potentially) stupid and non-stupid question time. Has anyone done working inside motion on 4mm scale models before? I am thinking about doing that as part of this project, the only problem is that I can't find bearings to suit 3mm axles. There are some for slot cars, but they are really thick (they look to be around 4mm thick, which would take up most of the axle space). They also seem to be quite expensive compared to other bearings from the likes of Wizard Models (they sell bearings for a different axle diameter for around £2.50 for a pack of ten, compared to the slot car ones which are asking £4 for a pack of two). I've measured the axles themselves, and the part where bearings and the inside motion could go is around 13mm long. I've figured that I'll need around 5-6mm for the inside motion itself, depending on the thickness of brass used (for the sides of the cranked part that look like this: Гl ). I hope that makes sense, I don't know the actual terminology of that part. Thanks to anyone who can help with this! Also, to prove that I have a plan and I intend to execute it this time, here's a picture showing the intended cab and bunker design. I even got some mini drill bits and a pin vice so that I can do the slots between the coal rails on the sides. I will begin making the cab as soon as I can (hopefully tonight).

I agree, that looks absolutely amazing!

Well, I did find references for the wagons, and they are definitely to 10mm scale. I think I'll consider Stepney a special case. He seems to be the only inconsistency within the show's "scaling." EDIT: So I guess my only question now is, is the old Mainline tooling brakevan compromised and not to scale? In pictures, it appears a bit vertically challenged compared to even the Hornby Railroad model. Here are a couple of pictures of my brakevan, to show which model I'm talking about.

I think the van is OO. Most of the wagons in the range are made from the old Mainline toolings.

Can I get a few opinions on this (or at least a second one)? As you may know, a lot of the bigger changes I decided to make to Thomas were due to the wheels needing to be smaller: around 16mm (4') to be exact. However, I know that Terriers are supposed to have wheels of 4' in diameter as well. This is where I'm confused. (Pictures of everything will be at the bottom). Stepney, in the show, has wheels that don't appear to quite match the 10mm scale that I thought the models were scaled to. What makes it worse, is that, when you look at James and Edward's leading wheels (their driving wheels are the same as Thomas), they are very near 10mm scale 3 feet and are just slightly smaller than the wheels on the various wagons in the series (in real life, I believe someone said they have wheels of around 3' 1"). Another strange thing is that Thomas in the show, is the same height as GWR rolling stock (the cattle wagon and the van with two vents on each side (12 ton?), but the Bachmann model I have of that van, even after the modifications (with the smaller wheels) would still be a couple of mm taller than the van. Another thing about James and Edward is that their tenders (the ends after the dip in each side) are supposed to line up with the top of the 7 plank wagons, but because the Bachmann model's were made with the same erroneously large wheels that Thomas got in Series 6 (a modification only he got, which means that he should technically have larger wheels than James and Edward), they were scaled up accordingly with the wheels and their Bachmann models have tenders that are a couple of mm too tall (alongside the two of them being too large altogether). To summarize (I guess) if they had larger wheels than Stepney, like the references suggest, they would just be too big for all of the rolling stock. Basically, it seems like everything except Stepney is scaled to 10mm scale. I really hope all of this makes sense. I might be over thinking this, but I'm confused. Thanks to anyone who can help make sense of this, or who tells me not to worry so much about it. (Credit goes to the Thomas the Tank Engine Wikipedia for the images).

That looks really good! Great job!

Thanks everyone! That's all really helpful!

I have been struggling to cut curves in plasticard without the knife doing straight segments in it, so I have been wondering, how do you do it? I've seen people's work with curves cut into them, but I just can't seem to do it myself. Do you have any tips? I've also thought a little bit about working with brass, but I don't really know what tools to use to cut it. Any tips here? Thanks for any information you can provide!

Here's what I've been doing with quarantine modelling. I have continued with my "fine-scale" Thomas project (from a Bachmann Thomas), mainly painting the faces. I found that two coats of Vallejo Sky Grey to give really good coverage. I have also been trying to work on his running plate. I figured out that the original running plate is 2mm too long, and the curve at the front is squished by around 1mm, which makes it look like the curve goes to far down vertically, although it doesn't. I set about trying to fix this by scratchbuilding a new running plate, but I cannot cut the curve properly. At all. I have a few options: 1. Try to forget the difference with the curve and just shorten the Bachmann running plate by 2mm. 2. Shorten the running plate and attempt to scratchbuild just the curve. 3. Keep trying to scratchbuilt the complete running plate. 4. Buy a (slightly incorrect, but more correct overall) running plate from ShapeWays. 5. Try to just forget the error completely. What do you guys think? I'll include a couple of pictures to show what I mean. I'm kind of leaning towards option 1 or 2. If I do go with option two, does anyone have suggestions for how to cut a curve into plasticard? I've seen pictures that show people have done it, I just can't do it myself. Thanks! Here are the pictures:

Just before posting the revised plan for Thomas, I figured out that the Bachmann running plate is 2mm too long and the curve isn't properly profiled, which means that it's flat too far forward. That leaves a 4mm space between the splashers and the beginning of the curve in the running plate, which should be minimal, probably around 0.5-1mm. I tried to build my own attempt at the running plate, but I can't cut the curve as well as I need to. I tried to do both sides, and although I drew them the same, they both turned out differently. Does anyone have suggestions for how to cut them cleanly? I don't have a silhouette cutter, nor the money needed to get one. Thanks for any help you can give! Here's a couple of pictures of my attempt: EDIT: I found a running plate on ShapeWays that appears to take care of the problem. Is it cheating to think of taking the easy way out? Also, what's the general thickness of the cab sides for a RTR 00 gauge locomotive? EDIT 2: I guess I have a lot of questions today. What do you guys usually do to add rivets?

That's awesome! 110% approved!

Well, this may not have context to my last post, but I worked on finishing the eyes. I got them to be round and to 6mm so they actually fit the eye plates. Unfortunately, while I was outside, one went missing... figures. I ended up making a new eye plate out of Milliput (no association) and the eyes are now primed. Hopefully they still fit after that. I also began putting the final coats of paint on the faces. I have found that 2 coats of Vallejo Sky Grey work well (no association). I'm not sure if others may need to thin the paint or not. I didn't, but it seems like it's thinner than other Vallejo colors I've worked with. I even got one face completed! Not related, but I did find a steel ruler, so hopefully I'll be able to do cleaner cuts in plasticard now. I also think I've found the type of layout I want to build (probably 10+ years in the future, I'm beginning real life soon). I'm thinking I'll try to evoke a sense of the Lewes Road Viaduct and the Kemptown Branch, probably around the late 40s or early 50s. Of course, it is subject to change over that time. I don't think I'll make it exactly to prototype, but I remember reading once that good layouts don't necessarily need to be a real place, as long as they feel like where they're said to be based on. I just need to figure out a justification for why Thomas is there.

You're going to have to go through me if you want that one. I've been working on modifying a Bachmann Thomas for a year now, and I'm really only just beginning (again).

I'm guessing that changing minds probably happens a lot when you have a project that becomes considerably larger than originally intended, but I have finally settled. There is a guy on YouTube who builds his own 16mm scale Skarloey Railway models named Sudrian Railway Modeler. Something he does is build a base-model with the proportions of the original TV model's, but adds some details from the RWS and the real Talyllyn locomotives. I have decided that I'll follow a (somewhat) similar pattern with my Thomas model. After frustrations on figuring out how I could possibly get a motor to fit through the 10mm gap that would be in Thomas' smokebox saddle, I remembered that most British outline small tank engines usually have the underside of the boiler separate so the motor can rest on that. Considering that would be extremely helpful for my project, I am going to do the same thing (it's a good thing Thomas has such large splashers). I also found a Speaker that would be able to fit inside Thomas' side tank if I go along the DCC Sound route. I plan on fitting the decoder in the bunker (I'm assuming that there will eventually be a custom sound decoder that will fit in there if there isn't one already, considering the technology is getting small enough for sound in Bachmann's 009 Baldwin). I also think I figured out a way to emulate opening water-filler caps, since I don't think I could do real hinges that small. I hope the blueprint makes some sense as to how that would work. Lastly, I have begun painting the faces, too! They're not quite so creepy, now. Work still needs to be done on the eyes, however. As you can see, this might be the most overboard project ever (especially for a Thomas model). I'm not crazy, right?

What lack of detail? It looks great to me! You do great work!

I've been watching your videos for a few years, now, I think you always do really great work! Although I haven't been able to see the video yet, I look forward to it. The pictures certainly make it look promising!

Your layout looks very nice. I like how detailed everything is. Out of curiosity, what type of couplings do you use?

Well, due to unforseen Corona Virus issues causing a break from school, I can actually continue the project. I have been told on another thread that plasticard should work for the cab sides once it's all put together. To add, I've also ended up deciding to combine elements of the original TV model, the Railway Series illustration, and the E2, which I'm hoping produces something more realistic but along the lines of the Railway Series illustrations. The TV elements will mainly be the faces, some minor details and the length, which is more like the RWS illustrations, rather than the stretched version people usually do. The Bunker in the RWS also has coal rails rather than the half-rail + sheet thing the TV model has. I will be doing the RWS style bunker in hopes of it making Thomas seem like the smaller type of E2 he is. Hopefully doing all of this will make it better than the CGI render below. I am currently in the process of cutting all of the pieces for the cab. I will post once that's (mostly) put together. All pictures that aren't obviously my own came from the Thomas the Tank Engine Wikia.

Yes, here's a picture showing two of the cab sides temporarily placed next to each other. The front's not fullly cut yet, but I fear that it may be brittle seeing as it's made from 20 thou plasticard. The side is made from two 20 thou sheets stuck together with windows cut out, leaving the top and bottom of the windows 1mm thick.

So while we're on the 'how to do this...' subject, anyone know how to completely rebuild an RTR loco cab? I figure brass would be suitable, because my first attempt with plasticard was a bit flimsy for my liking. I'm just not sure what tools are needed to cut brass and how to attach it to plastic. If anyone could help give information, that would be lovely. Thanks.

Hey Nile, Sorry to bug you about paint again, but how do you get such a nice finish with brush painting? Do you thin the paint, or is there something else I could be missing? Thanks. -TM2001

Time for an update, though this one will be a bit different. I realized that any attempts to keep the original motor set up would make the model at least a little bit unsatisfactory in my eyes, mainly because I want to get it (excepting my ideas for additional detail) as close to the television series model as I can. The cab is also proving at least somewhat troublesome in that regard as well. Although there's certainly room for a fully open cab, the fineness of the cab sides would probably leave it somewhat flimsy working with plasticard. Conversely, any attempt to remotor the model is outside of my skill range and budget. There is also the factor of time. Come June, I will be graduating from high school and I will be moving to the next stage of my life, which means I won't really be able to do modelling for at least two years. To do everything I'd want to with this project (including thoughts of EM Gauge) would probably leave it unfinished for a long time. However, this does not mean that I am abandoning the project. Since I believe I can finish the running plate in the time I have left, I am planning on combining the running plate, wheels, and faces with my second Thomas model so that I can at least finish off with a more acceptable model. I will push back the other modifications to the original Thomas until I can figure out a way to do them in the way I want to. I'll still update this thread with the mods I'll be carrying out to the new Thomas (which is basically just a repeat of the first half of the first page). At least this way I'll be able to apply what I've learned the first time. So now I suppose it's more of a semi-finescale project. -TM2001