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DCCconcepts

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Posts posted by DCCconcepts

  1. On 18/08/2022 at 19:52, JohnR said:

     

    There are already holes for dowels in the baseboard. The DCC Concepts dowels dont fit. 

     

    I'm just wondering if there are any that would which can also carry power, as the DCC Concepts ones do...

     

    Tim Horn has made some boards for our demo layouts.

    He made them with the requisite laser cut hole for our alignment dowels.

     

    For those wishing to use our dowels with Tim Horn boards, contact him and we're sure he will oblige and cut the holes to match.

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Informative/Useful 3
  2. 4 minutes ago, Ian J. said:

    Investing in an RRampMeter, or something like it, is invaluable, especially for DCC where knowing the amps off the command station PSU can really help to keep loads balanced.

     

    https://tonystrains.com/news/rrampmeter-by-dcc-specialties/

     

    I'm sure other types of such a meter are available.

     

    Yes there are other meters.

     

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/alpha-meter-for-dc-or-dcc/

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Like 3
  3. 9 hours ago, jools1959 said:

    I’ve recently purchased a Athearn SP SD45T-2 and I’d like to try and get the cab lights to oscillate as per the prototype.  Can anyone suggest a non sound decoder which I can easily set up this function?

     

    Zen decoders have the facility to configure an output to simulate a Mars light (albeit non-moving) with a simple CV change.

     

    Best Regards,.

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Like 2
  4. 13 hours ago, Graham108 said:

    Don't you need 2 buttons per point? Or am I missing something?

     

    The OP is using Cobalt Digital IP motors.

    These are not just exclusively DCC accessory command operated.

    They can also be manually controlled using two pushbuttons - OR - in this case - one button to toggle the direction.

    Connect two pushbuttons across terminal 7 (PBS-L), 8 (PBS-C) and terminal 9 (PBS-R) and 8 (PBS-C)

    You can also use a spring to centre SPDT toggle switch connected to 7/8/9.

     

    Or: a single pushbutton can be connected across 7 and 9 to toggle the operation of the motor.

     

    Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team.

    (edit: Just seen the OPs reply)

    (edit: PBS info added)

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  5.  

     

     

    On 31/05/2022 at 15:12, JST said:

    I have a branch line on my layout with Lenz ABC braking units at each end (each wired to the right hand rail). All my locos with Zimo/ESU decoders do the shuttle mode thing perfectly but I am having trouble with a Bachmann Pannier tank that I have just fitted with a Zen Black decoder and stay alive. The loco trundles into the terminus and stops at the required place, waits and then retraces it's steps to the main terminus. The trouble is, when it gets there is stops, waits and then sets off in the same direction instead of going back again. I found that CV 60 was set to 5 which means the loco was expecting a station stop of 50 seconds which I thought was the problem but resetting CV60 to 0 has not cured the problem. I have read the DCC Concepts manual and have accordingly set CV 27 to 4 and CV 59 to 3 (a thirty second delay). I can only think that either:-

    1 Maybe DCC Concepts decoders only work with DCC Concepts ABC units

    2 Somewhere I have a CV setting wrong.

     

    Before I email DCC Concepts does anyone here have any pearls of wisdom to shed? If the answer is a lemon I will remove the Zen Black and fit a Zimo.

     

    Is this the same issue as per your emails of early March?

     

    Try turning the loco around 180 degrees as the Shuttle (Cv27=4) is rail dependent.

    If the asymmetric signal is on one side it will stop/pause/carry on in the same direction.

    If the asymmetric signal is on the other rail, it will stop/pause/reverse.

     

    The other possibility is that there is not a good contact between power and decoder - dirty wheels/track/pickups.

    If a loco with shuttle activated loses power as it stops, but just long enough to regain power as it actually halts, this may confuse the shuttle software.

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts team

  6. 4 hours ago, Jack Benson said:

    A bit of a throw back question but my MultiMaus system is very basic and it is about to be used on a micro layout. 
     

    The layout has but two turnouts driven by Peco solenoids, what is the most cost effective way of controlling them by DCC? In the past, I have used Roco’s own basic accessory decoder but I am struggling to both afford and find one. Are individual accessory decoders still available even if they are second hand?

     

    Thank you

     

    StaySafe

     

    Hi Jack,

    Maybe a little late - but you could use our ADS-2SX  unit.

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/accessory-decoder-cdu-solenoid-drive-fx-2-way-power-off-memory/

     

    Best Regards.

    The DCCconcepts Team.

  7. On 31/03/2022 at 18:01, Edward said:

    Preparing our new layout for exhibition,  we shorted 2 rails and the effect was that all the 8 cobalts would not respond at all.  They seemed to have lost their accessory numbers.  We managed to reprogram them with their correct numbers and all was well. However, as you might imagine, I'm rather concerned that this fault might reoccur at an inconvenient time and wondered if anyone had any advice to give.

     

    1. The system used is an NCE PowerCab  and a member built and we fitted a MERG circuit breaker into the track bus.   When the fault happened, the MERG sounded a long warning note and we had to switch off power before the sound stopped.

     

    2.I remember that DCC Concepts had some sort of problem with a batch of Cobalts around 2018.  Could these been some of them?   I remember we had just the layout wiring finished when the Covid lockdown stopped all activity till now.  So they would have been bought about that time.

     

    3.Also I'm fitting passing contact switches to move the points via wires directly to the terminals on each Cobalt.  Am I right in assuming that would work even the Cobalt had lost it's number?

     

    (How wonderful RMweb is back!!  Many thanks to all laboured to get it sorted.)

     

     

     

    Hi Edward,

    Yes - there was an issue with some motors made in late 2018.

    The offending item was quickly found and steps taken to ensure the problem would not be repeated.

    We're now some 30,000 motors later and no repeat!

    (The only way to identify them is to check a part number on a component - using a magnifying glass!)

     

    If you are continuing to have problems, please email us directly and we'll do what we can to sort you out.

     

    Yes, you can operate Digital IP poiunt motors via momentary contacts to the PBS terminals.

    Power is from DCC or regulated DC.

    They will work without addressing when controlled this way.

     

    The PBS/manual terminals can be used alongside digital commands when powered with DCC.

     

    Best Regards,

    The Dccconcepts Team

    • Informative/Useful 1
  8. 2 hours ago, speleo said:

    I have just bought one of the DCC alpha mimic panel controllers with red/green LEDs, I have connected it up as directed on the instructions, and programmed it. the only problem is that when I change the points the LEDs do not change on any of the twelve points. does anybody have any thoughts as to why?

     

    How are you operating your points?

    What point decoders are you using?

    Do they use the same address range as your Alpha Mimic board.

     

    Drop us an email (on the website homepage) and we'll see what we can do to get it sorted.

     

    Best Regards.

    The DCCconcepts Team

  9. On 24/12/2021 at 20:53, Steve507 said:

     

    the vinyl will stretch, but the problem is the bottom of the door the moulded step sticks out, and prevents the  vinyl sitting completely flat. - i did depress it flat, but next morning it had lifted. - ideally it needs cutting to sit flat on the doors, im yet to do it myself, as im going to install door steps. my plan is to cut the vinyl at the bottom - then push it flat and the step i'll install will hide the cut in the vinyl.

     

    The windows are photo etch, and i used evergreen clear plastic sheet 0.25mm. i cut around the window frame, made a template, cut all the windows to this and simply glued it to the back of the photo etch frame, which then sits on the vinyl.

     

    im in over my head, having never built a kit before, and my train before this was bought old Lima i had back in the late 80s, till 1992'ish.

     

    I glued the windows with some stuff called clear fix from humbrol, after advice from a chap in hobby craft. I nearly used superglue which would have 'frosted' the plastic. I applied the clear fix with a cocktail stick, with what i thought was small amounts, but after removing weights off the windows some had seeped out, thankfully the stuff can easily be cleaned with a bit of warm water and cotton bud rubbed over, as i done on the first passenger window.  (right carriage)

     

     

    I've included the latest photo. 

     

     

    i'm awaiting a reply from a company who does decals, to see if they can produce an oval decal. which will look neater and stick onto the model better. also hoping they can produce the Merseyrail M logo, and unit number.

     

    I've gone full kamikaze and bought two decoders from DCC concepts, Zen Mini, plus two 8 pin harnesses, plus a pack of 2mm white tower LEDs lights, (for headlights) and a pack of Nano Bi White/Red LEDs.(marker/reverse lights) and true to form haven't got a clue how to wire them up.

     

    I've been reading this forum. and bits on other sites. but my head is fried with it all.

     

    I Bought two 8 pin harnesses, my thinking being, hardwire these to the lights and then i can always change decoders - But its the whole white wire, yellow wire business.

     

    Ideally, i want to achieve day and night running lights.

     

    so train going forward has maker lights on. and i can via a function turn one or the other headlight on.

     

    white wire wired up to the marker lights, and one of the other wires, green or purple to individual control the main headlights. but what of reverse yellow wire?

     

    But with two decoders in the same train. how would i wire up the decoder in the reverse unit?

     

    anyone know of a diagram on how to wire up - such a set up. 

     

    Merry Christmas to all.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Hi Steve,

    Hopefully, we've answered your lighting query directly, but for the benefit of others, this is how we would recommend wiring two decoders with directional markers/reds and switchable day/night headlights:

     

    One decoder is fitted per cab/outer car.

     

    One cab/decoder is wired as follows:

    White wire to markers,

    Yellow wire to reds

    Green wire to day headlight

    Purple wire to night headlight.

     

    Not forgetting a series resistor and common positive (blue) to all LEDs

     

    The other decoder is wired in the same way in the other cab but swap over the white/yellow wires to the markers/reds.

     

    Give both decoders the same address and the markers/reds will automatically reverse with direction on the F0 key.

    F1 and F2 keys will operate the green/purple wires but they can be made directional altering CV51/52

    Default for CV51/52 is 32 so that they work in both directions, but by setting CV51 and 52 to 0 in one car and 16 in the other, they will only work in one direction - 0 one way, 16 the other - when F1 or F2 are operated)

     

    i.e the day or night headlight will only illuminate when the relevant direction is selected with the markers/reds.

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Informative/Useful 1
  10. Hi David,

    Nice solution.

     

    We've already incorporated magnets in our 0 gauge rolling road and we're already looking at ways to include the magnet in the smaller gauge sets on future production runs.

     

    We're trying to include the magnet in the middle of the 16.5mm unit, but have to allow for third rail users. (The solution may be two smaller magnets either side of centre).

     

    Incidentally, stainless steel can be acquired in grades that are ferritic and/or martensitic (i.e magnetic)

     

    Best Regards.

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Informative/Useful 1
  11. 24 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

     Miss P,

     

    should we call you Mystic Meg now?

     

    It's getting a bit like Kevin McCLoud's Grand Designs, where things have to go wrong (or be in jeopardy) before everything works out perfectly. The directors presumably think it makes for good TV but it gets rather boring, week after week.

     

    The British offerings of this type of program have nothing on the jeopardy (just before a commercial break) compared with US DIY/build shows.

    If the same level of jeopardy was applied to the model railway program, then the loco before the break would be a 4-6-2 Duchess, and afterwards a Class 08 as the problem was solved.

    • Funny 5
  12. You could always think about using DCCconcepts Powerbase plates on the rising line of the helix. Don't forget to also add it to a bit beyond the top of the gradient.

     

    Whilst not a replica of your situation:

    We have a test track that includes 1 in 30 and 1 in 60 gradients  on a 48" radius curve and a test was carried out with a Bachmann 66 and 14x Dapol HIA hoppers.

    The hoppers are relatively heavy and free running.

    (You do not mention the coaches that you are using)

     

    The 66 was absolutely OK on the 1 in 60, but would wheelslip on the 1 in 30 when all the train was on the gradient/curve. We added a couple of flat magnets under the fuel tanks and the 66 was now a very happy bunny up the 1 in 30.

     

    Also consider the weight of the locos. Although they are both 6-axle powered, a Bachmann 70 is far lighter than a Bachmann 66. And we know of a 70 that struggled on a 1in 100 with 21 HHAs, but the 66 was Ok. (We didn't try the Powerbase test on this example)

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

     

  13.  

    13 hours ago, Dagworth said:

    What are to longest in length mass manufactured points in OO gauge? Looking at flat bottom but wooden sleepers. 
     

    Not really looking at custom made-to-order as that would cost me the earth. 
     

    Hand building my own* may be the best option for what I need but just curious if there is anything on the market that will save me time but not cost an arm and a leg. 
     

    *or kits..

     

    Andi

     

    Hi Andi.

    We have the Tillig 85346 and 85347 points in stock - as well as quite a few other Tillig trackwork items.

     

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/rh-wide-radius-ho-96-34-degrees-l389mm-r2200mm/

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/rh-wide-radius-ho-96-34-degrees-l389mm-r2200mm/

     

    Best Regards

    The DCCconcepts Team

  14. 1 hour ago, Silky Track said:

    Hi. 

     

    I’m wondering if anyone can help me please. I am using various ADS-8SX decoders on my layout all controlling peco solenoid motors via my Z21.  All have worked fine and been easy to set up. 

     

    However I have just installed my first ever double slip and just can’t work out how to get the Z21 and the ADS to work together correctly. The wiring is all correct but I just can’t get the Z21 to control the two motors correctly. 

     

    The Z21 gives the double slip two addresses but I can’t seem to be able to separate these when trying to get the ADS to learn the addresses. I am using two outputs on the ADS but it’s not throwing the points correctly at all. It’s only doing the two cross-over configurations - not the other two configurations. 

     

    Please can you offer any advice on this at all?  I’ve looked online and can find virtually no help as all - especially on the Z21 site. 

     

    Many thanks for any advice you can give as it must be possible to do this. I just can’t work out how. 

     

    Cheers

    Ian

     

    Whilst the Z21 creates the two addresses - it also sends these out as a macro pair when trying to address the ADS unit, so whichever channel you try to address, it always picks up the last address.

     

    You have to create two more single points with the same two addresses as the slip, but use these single points to set the two individual addresses of the ADS. Put these two points tiebar to tiebar (a "longhand" double slip) next to the slip icon and then play with the slip logic within the Z21 setup to make them work correctly to give the four routes,

     

    This is a foible of the Z21 (and ESU ECoS) as it assumes you are using a multi-channel decoder that already has sequential addresses.

     

    The same scenario is used for 3-way points = i.e. create two dummy points with the same two addresses as the 3-way.

     

    Same sequence is used when using Cobalt Digital IP. 

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

  15. 5 hours ago, Robert Stokes said:

     

     

    You mention using DCC Concepts point motors. Are these the slow-action type? If so then you definitely should remove the springs and should use DPDT switches which give constant current instead of push buttons.

     

     

     

    2 hours ago, Jonnyb said:

    I have the cobalt ip digital ones

     

    As the OP is using Digital IP motors they do not need DPDT switches.

    The "PBS" manual switch terminals on a Digital IP must have a short break before make contact. So on/on type SPDT switches aren't suitable. On/off/on maintained contact switches can be used but don't flick them directly from on to on - it needs the slightest of pauses in the middle off position.

    Ideally a pair of momentary pushbuttons connected 7-8 and 8-9  or a spring return to centre on/off/on toggle switch SPDT type is the best choice.

    Or they can be operated from the DCC system (see below regarding the Prodigy)

     

    Yes - we recommend removing the over centre springs when using slow action motors - regardless of manufacturer.

     

    4 hours ago, mikeg said:

    The points as Robert has said are best supplied with a reduced voltage, I have used 9v and they are more reliable. I was advised by DCC Consepts to use a resistance when using the main DCC bus as the supply.

     

     

    The resistor (typically 270-330 ohm) was recommended for use with the original Digital (and analog) motors produced pre-2014. The later Digital IP motors are quite happy with a wider DCC voltage input.

     

    2 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

    Assuming you are powering these motors from the same power as the track, you can use the S1-Frog output to feed the frog, which should help any stalling as locos go over the blades and frog. You can find the details of how to wire it up correctly on the DCC Concepts or Peco website.

     

    You don't need to worry about voltage as these are designed to run from the track power, also you don't need any DPDT switches as the motor has one built in - hence why I asked about the type of motor ;)

     

    If the OP is using the basic Prodigy system then it is not capable of controlling accessories - so will require control of the motors via the manual PBS terminals.

     

    The internal switch S1 switches the DCC IN feed back out to the FROG terminal, so is ideal for connection of an electrofrog when using a common DCC bus to feed track and point motors.

    But if using a separate accessory feed then the track/frog will need switching via the S2 switch and the S2-L/C/R terminals.

     

    Best Regards

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Like 1
  16. 7 hours ago, amdaley said:

     

    Hi Ron.

    I hadn't thought of Alpha Mimic as to honest I don't know anything about them.

    I'll take a look.

     

    Regards.

    Tony.

     

    As Ron says, Alpha Mimic reads the same commands sent to the accessories.

    It is a 12-channel decoder driving LEDs.

     

    You might also want to look at Alpha Encoder. It uses normal switches and encodes them into digital signals for the DCC system.

    It is a direct plug-in to the NCE cab bus via a RJ12 cable.

    Whilst it doesn't yet do route setting, it is a very simple method of making a control panel diagram with switches on a track layout and add Alpha Mimic to repeat the point positions.

    Drop us an email or give us a call next week.

     

    Best Regards.

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Thanks 1
  17. 1 hour ago, AndrueC said:

    FYI I've just been testing mine (purchased 2020) and whilst Accy+<addr>+1 sets the address I found that Accy+<addr>+2 was also needed in run mode to throw the switches. So +1 pulls the switch, +2 pushes it, rather than it being +1 to flip.

     

    I thought at first I'd bought some duff ones when they didn't respond to Accy+<addr>+1 after being set.

     

    By pressing the 1 or 2 above, you are sending the left and right commands for address #1, not two separate addresses. 

     

    When the switch is in the SET position, a Digital IP motor "listens" for an accessory command (it doesn't matter if that is a left or a right, 1 or 2, t or c) and it will remember that number when the switch is put back to RUN.

     

    It depends upon your DCC system on what buttons you have to press to send the accessory command.

    For example, it is is SELECT ACCY, number, 1 or 2 for direction, for a NCE Powercab. (You can toggle direction using just the SELECT ACCY button on a Powercab)

    SWCH, number. t or c for a Digitrax.

     

     

    By default, the address is #1, so they will work "out of the box" with the switch in the RUN position and sending either the left or right command from your system for the accessory address #1.

  18. On 18/08/2021 at 10:52, Jesse Sim said:

     You can also see in the bottom of this image a lone cobalt mounted above the board, obviously it’s because there’s a bast**d beam right underneath. I had a thought of just bending the exisiting wire to suit and mounting it on top, thankfully it work. 
     

    98F83B19-6FB5-4677-A225-119565AEE0B6.jpeg.c7fd27b4bc0dc0a95da6b81cf8c15e7a.jpeg

     

     

     


     

     

     

     

     

    We make a right angled adapter for unusual situations such as yours.

    Cobalt Right-Angle Adapters w/Mounting Hardware (3 Pack) (dccconcepts.com)

     

    The omega loop is for illustration purposes.

     

    RA3a.jpg.9cd8db0289d153735e4e7056a75b2e52.jpg

     

     

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

     

    • Like 2
    • Informative/Useful 2
  19. 51 minutes ago, Wear Valley Wanderer said:

    Sorry, I thought they were one and the same thing.

     

    To clarify I had the exit rails connected to the polarity switching terminals on the point motors. When that didn't work I tried wiring the exit rails to Gaugemaster DCC80 autofrogs. Same issue, but at least it eliminated the possibility of a fault on the motor.

     

    You say it's an insulfrog single slip. There is no requirement for polarity switching.

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

  20. 13 hours ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

     

    Apart from being cheaper than the NCE SB5 , does the Alpha Box contain the track power protection, that the NCE kit fails to provide?

     

     

    .

     

    Yes - the Alpha Box has fast acting output circuit protection.

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

    • Thanks 1
  21. 2 hours ago, Nigel1958 said:

    I am after advice regarding upgrading dcc controller, currently using NCE power cab but need more power for more locos and sound. I am undecided whether to purchase a NCE SB5 booster or to change to Gaugemaster prodigy2.  I am aware that if I use the SB5 I will loose the programming track option but this would not be a problem.  
     

    Any advice would be gratefully received .

     

     

    DCCconcepts do a 5A power upgrade bundle suitable for the Powercab.

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/alpha-system-upgrade-bundle-limited-time-promotion/

     

    (This is also a suitable upgrade for those that wish to add extra power on other systems)

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

  22. On 28/07/2021 at 18:27, Nigelcliffe said:

     

    No, the Tortoise stops when you remove power.  It doesn't move again unless you apply power to it.    You can mechanically push it to a new position, but it takes a considerably shove to do it, and not recommended.  

     

    Yes, it is larger than the Cobalt, though not by much.  

     

    The Tortoise is generally 20% larger than a Cobalt in all dimensions.

    The Cobalt motor cannot be moved by hand without damaging the gears.

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

  23. On 27/07/2021 at 16:30, Ron Ron Ron said:

    DCC Concepts will readily exchange any faulty Cobalt motors, with a new replacement.

    They’ve made several modifications and improvements over the years, since the original model came out.

    Some of the problems were down to a few faulty batches, the cause of which were said to be identified and rectified.

    Cobalts have been in such high demand, that DCC Concepts couldn’t supply enough to dealers and stocks ran out.

    With such popularity, we haven’t had many recent reports of faulty items over the last few years.

     

    .

     

    Provided that the owner is the original purchaser and that they have been subjected to "fair and proper" use.

    i.e. drilling a 10mm hole in the case and asking for warranty was not viewed favourably.

     

    Indeed - demand did outstrip supply for awhile, but we have decent stock for now.

     

    Whilst there was a couple of faulty batches due to manufacturing issues, there is always an ongoing program to maintain and improve the product.

     

    Best Regards

    The DCCconcepts Team

  24. On 31/05/2021 at 21:29, PaulRhB said:

     The DCCconcepts 560mpd is a tad too short for a 158 but holds a MPV or 150 ok but they have been out of stock for a while now. 
     


     

     

     

    On 15/06/2021 at 08:27, deepfat said:

      So I though I'll standardise on the DCC concepts MPD system and they are also non existent in the UK.  So I guess I'll have to come up with my own design maybe based on electric trunking. 

     

    MPDs are back in stock!

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/?s=MPD

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

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