Robert Stokes

I didn't think that all types of bell wire were single stranded. I agree with your point about using multi-stranded wire. Robert

I don't yet have a proper programming track. Until I do, I use the whole layout as one, with all engines except one removed. The Power Cab works fine like that and it's several metres long. Robert

I am not sure exactly what you want. Do you mean wires that go from the controller to the track? If so then no soldering should be necessary. Use any length of bell wire or similar. At the controller end it should go onto screw terminals. At the track end it can plug into a track connecting clip like this one. https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/shop/power-control/power-connecting-clip.html Robert

I think that they are equally important. I wouldn't want really good scenery with poorly designed track or models of rolling stock which would never have run in the same time frame and/or the same place. Equally I wouldn't want a perfect representation of the railway with no scenery or something done hastily and badly. To me it is the overall picture which matters. Whether I can achieve that is a different matter. Robert

Yes, I suppose that you are right. I think it extremely unlikely that anyone would come to an exhibition with mains equipment having that sort of connector but I suppose that you have to guard against even that remote possibility. Robert

It depends on how many wires you want to connect. For two wires you could use the ones that you can buy to put in the middle of mains wires for such things as a cut lawnmower cable. They may not be made for repeated plugging and unplugging but they look very robust. https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-white-10a-in-line-wire-connector/753979_BQ.prd Robert

What is the curved black line at the bottom of the diagram? Is it a backscene so that viewing would be from the top? Robert

It is difficult to work out what is at fault without being there. One approach is to undo one wire and see if it still shorts. If it does, then put it back and undo another wire. Eventually you find the one that is causing the problem and hopefully can work out how to remedy the situation. Robert

I reckon that length is the most important. I'd go for the top one but maybe slide the two sides back a bit. Robert

What gauge will you use? I am guessing N-gauge because you will have great difficulty fitting in a train of engine and five Mk 1s using 00 gauge as it will be about six feet long. If you are using N-gauge then that is a decent size space and you can do what you have described. With 00 I suggest that a single line that doubles as it goes through the station would be more appropriate. Robert

I've only just caught up with this thread. There is a lot of good modelling there. The whole thing seems to 'gel' quite nicely if you see what I mean. I particularly like the ballasting and the buildings. However, there is one thing that I would criticise - the white platform edging seems far too wide and too white; it almost glows! If I were you, I would paint most of it grey to represent paving slabs with only 1 to 2mm a dirty white at the edges. (I hope that you don't mind me mentioning this.) Robert

I agree. What your friend must do is ask to see the individual that found it, and thank her personally. In view of the value of the item and the cleaner's probable low pay, their honesty deserves at least £20. Rober

There is "no need" but it is better to take the second option of having the frog powered by the point motor. Breaking the little wires underneath can be quite difficult. I found the best thing is a miniature screwdriver. The wires are quite soft and break when pushed sideways. It is best to remove the little wires completely to avoid them possibly making contact later. You will need insulating track joiners on the inside two rails at the frog. Robert

An operating well is a good idea, but I would make it longer. You certainly don't need more than 24" at each end and 18" is probably enough. I would therefore make the well somewhere between 6 and 7 feet long. Conversely I don't think it need be 30" wide. You might find that 24" is enough. That would leave you 24" one side for a station and 12" the other side for storage loops under scenery. Why anyone starting today would not go DCC I cannot imagine. It has many advantages and no disadvantages except cost but it's not too much in the whole cost of the railway. On that size of layout you are going to struggle to fit in long trains. You might find that an engine and four coaches is about the best you can do. Good luck with the project. I hope that you and daughter get as much enjoyment from the hobby as I have. Robert

I found the first post rather sad to read. The other members of the club could have had a quiet word with the person concerned and ask them to be a bit more pleasant towards the younger members. Robert (Genuine grumpy old man.)

Your shed is not quite as big as mine. It looked larger in the pictures. This is because I thought that the two pictures showing several tracks were on opposite sides of the shed. Looking at them more carefully now, I realise that they are views from opposite ends. I look forward to seeing how it progresses. Robert

Hello Jez, What's the length and width of your shed? It looks very similar to mine. Robert

That's a great piece of work ! I wonder who will get the most pleasure from it - you making it or him using it. Nine years ago, when my eldest grandchild was 5, I made him a small model railway for Christmas after he showed interest in mine. Sadly that interest only lasted a few weeks. (He was possibly too young and I should have waited another year or two.) I hope that your grandson's interest will last much longer.

I think that the scheme you have sketched out needs a bigger board. Robert

When I mentioned the sides and bottom I was referring to the cabinet in which the boards are stored. I thought that you wanted to protect the tracks on the ends of the boards when they were stored in the cabinet. Robert

Here's another idea that would give very quick removal and replacement. Add some aluminium angle (or wooden substitute) down both sides and across the bottom. Then you can slide in a plain piece of wood. Robert

This is a supplement to Harlequin's idea. Using a gradient of 1 in 50 on both the line ascending to the small station and on the one (I don't think it will be double track) descending to the fiddle yard, might just separate them by enough for the FY to be covered by some easily removable scenery. Robert

I am only answering because no-one has yet done so and I can only comment on question 1. It is my understanding that in the steam era ALL semaphore signals were set at caution (distants) or stop (homes) unless they were pulled off to let a specific train through. Thus before a junction both distants would be on until the signalman accepted a train offered by the box in the rear. I hope that someone will soon confirm or correct this. Robert

Interesting. Do you have a layout to put them on? Robert