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Ian Major

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  • Location
    Far from my natural habitat.
  • Interests
    Gauge 0 GWR/WR loco construction plus the odd wooden ship model.

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  1. A quick update. All the castings fitted. Construction is now complete except for the two buffer rams/heads. When the weather improves the "B" will be moved to the paint shop. In the meantime I will revisit some other projects. Ian.
  2. Tempus Fugit! Well, like most people, I have been rather distracted by other things, including a spell in hospital (not COVID related). It was time to get a grip and do more work on the second "B". The brake guard was made from a piece of 1.5 x 1.5mm brass angle and some 1.5mm N/S strip. The angle was filed to represent the teeth of the ratchet and (what would become) the upper end was bent over at 90 degrees. The resultant tab was later soldered to the underside of the solebar. The strip I bent at 90 degrees 25mm from the end. The angle was then soldered to this using 202 degree solder. The 25mm tail was adjusted so that it was at 45 degrees to the the ratchet and a 2mm length at the end was bent to form a tab. This was later soldered to the underside of the wagon floor. The longer part of the strip was bent and cut to length to represent the guard. This end was later soldered to the upper surface of the solebar lower flange. The assembly was soldered in place using 145 degree solder. The bracing is a bit wavy in the photo. i later sorted it. I then sorted it a second time after I managed to bend the guard whilst doing other work. Much use of Anglo Saxon language was involved. Strictly, the bracing should be made from angle. I am hoping this wont to be too obvious an omission when it is finally painted black! The kit supplied lever that was displaced by the DC brake gear on the first Macaw was added ... ... and the vertical part of the brake guard was made from a short length of the 1.5mm strip with pressed rivet detail. This was soldered on to the face of the solebar. I originally tried to make this latter part by folding it as part of the main piece of strip but the result looked naff. It was much easier as separate parts. This was repeated on the other side. To finish off the soldering I ran 70 degree solder along the top edges of the sides to hide the join. This was dressed with files and emery paper to leave a smooth finish. Having set the ride height using packing, I cut the excess length off the bolts that protruded through the floor. With the bolts permanently fitted I dressed their ends to be flush with the floor. Most of the remaining construction work is to attach the castings. I am short of a couple of buffer rams/heads having run out of suitable steel stock in which to turn them. I will have to have a trip to MACC Models. Ian.
  3. Mikkel, Fabulous work, as per your normal standard. Ian.
  4. Have a look at the photos of Wixford station on the Warwickshire Railways site:- https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/lms/mrwix587.htm The shots of the small yard include the portable loading ramp for livestock. BTW Wixford was the next station north from Broome Junction. Ian.
  5. George, I like your idea of a small diesel depot. This could include a small roofless ex steam shed housing the diesels. You could go to town on its internal detail with everything on show. The possibilities are limitless! Ian.
  6. John, Back in 2013 the Stanier Mogul got off the rails all wheels on the GCR. See here. At least on our 7mm railways we only suffer blushes. Ian.
  7. Excellent stuff John. I should be picking up a couple of 5ft(ish) boards next week. At long last I will be making my own small layout. I intend to build my own track so I am taking inspiration and pointers (or is it points) from your work. Reading your last entry I had to permit myself a chuckle. In your July entry you highlighted the existence of the catch/trap/whatever point, then ran through it recently. I mean really. You can't get the staff you know. Still, hands up anyone who hasn't done that. Not many I don't suppose. Ian.
  8. Beautifully executed James. I understand the use of the cotton buds, but I am intrigued by the set of miniature bottle cleaners sat there. I have an identical set for cleaning my airbrush. I guess you use them that way, since the wagon is sat in your spray booth. But do you use them for any other (paint related) purpose or are they simply there conveniently for the airbrush. I look forward to more photos. Ian.
  9. Hendie, Good to hear from you again. You have received some fabulous artifacts there. In a world where there are many evil things going on it is wonderful to have people like Andrew to help restore one's faith in human nature. I look forward to more developments. Ian. PS I agree with Keith. The curtain does look a bit like underwear after their journey. Still, with a bit of ironing and pleating it will be back to its former glory I am sure. PPS How is the aircraft modelling doing?
  10. Cor, you will be as drunk as a skunk with all that Isopropyl around. Those GUVs are looking good. Nice work. Looking forward to seeing them finished and of course in the flesh. Ian.
  11. John, That is a fabulous piece of work. I take it that you have placed them between the steps up to the (future) bridge and the main building. Do you have an arrangement of buildings in mind or are you in experimental stage? I am looking forward to the results. Ian.
  12. Oh dear I missed your birthday. I would have let you buy me a pint if I had known. Ian.
  13. George, I agree with Andrew. It looks superb. Ian.
  14. The next step was to fit the first of the diagonal truss parts. I removed the 'V's at that end and reduced them to the correct height. I used a piece of metric graph paper to make sure I was taking the legs down evenly. I didn't want a "leaning Tower of Pisa" effect. When I was happy with its height I fitted it in front of the diagonal bracing. It looks much better now. The next view shows the first diagonal on the right. I have fixed a packing piece between the brace and solebar. The join at the queen post was also a bit weak so I spanned it with a piece of 0.5mm wire - it acts as a sort of fishplate. As can be seen the inner bracing would have fouled the bogie mounting. To handle this problem I added an extra cross piece using the same brass channel as the solebars. After adding the second outer diagonal truss I wedged the new cross piece under the two diagonals, then when the inner diagonals were added they were simply fixed to the cross piece and cut short of the bogie mounting. I made a boo boo with the cross pieces. I mounted them with their webbing facing the buffer beams. I should have mounted them with the flanges towards the buffer beams. If I need to cut recesses in the cross pieces to clear the wheel flanges it is a bigger job cutting the webbing rather than the flanges. Sadly I had already fitted all the diagonals before picking this up. My forward planning capability is obviously fading. At this point I fitted the bogies and their mountings. I also added the bogie kit supplied spacers. This was to check nothing clashed, check the ride height plus seeing it on its wheels helps my motivation! The next photo shows the new B next to the first B. The new B is standing about 1mm high. The kit supplied spacers are 1.5mm thick, so I will use my cutter to create some 10thou spacers from plastic - a quick job. The photo also makes an interesting profile comparison between the old Connoisseur plate bogies (on the right) and the new ones. I think Jim's latest bogies look superb, and I haven't fitted the brakes yet. Whilst I was doing this I checked how far the bogies would swing before fouling any part of the body. It turned out to be 15 degrees. Now knowing the distance between the bogie centres and using my school Trigonometry I calculated my new B would be able to negotiate a curve of radius slightly less than 2ft. Though when I lower the body by one mm to correct the ride height this will reduce the wheel clearance so I will recalculate when the wagon is finished but before painting - in case I need to attack those cross pieces. I have a little more work on the trussing then it is adding the brake levers and making the ratchets for them. These will conclude the soldering work. The white metal detail will be glued on. Ian.
  15. Ade, Your trees are developing a lovely country station feel. I fear though the picture of the small prairie will need moving up the wall a bit before it disappears into the vegetation. Ian.
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