niteshadex

Hey I’m back. So I’m almost done with the last of the brake bits and it looks like this kit doesn’t include every part to actually have a complete dual brake system. There are no safety loops for the yokes, and the thing that pivots that the 2 yokes connect to (I forgot what it’s called), as well as a few other tiny bits. Do you think the Mainly Trains detailing fret would have the parts needed to complete the missing brake components? Also what is the best thing to use to make safety loops for the yokes ? Simple brass wire? If so what thickness?

thank you for all of that info. I’m glad Rumney models uframes are as good as they look then. after analyzing all the plastic wagons that I’ve built over the years (about 150 of them), I’ve decided that I will keep SOME of the plastic uframes, to be specific the ones that are moulded finely like Parkside, Slaters, and Chivers. I will be replacing the uframes on the Cambrian and Ian Kirk kits. Have any of you notices that their moulings are very blobby? Like the leaf springs are blobbed together as one single thick spring. I will be replacing their uframes one by one. And from now on most plastic kits that I build I will be building them on a brass uframe. I really want to mix and match different configurations/axleboxes/wheelbases (as long as they are prototypical of course). Also just wanted to mention that there are SOME uframes by Cambrian that I will not replace because they actually are moulded finely, particularly the SECR and CAM RYS uframes.

Ah yes i noticed that, this kit comes with a regular vacuum cylinder as well as WB bits.

Wow, this brake system is unlike any I have put together. My layout is in the late big-4 era. Appreciate the photo.

The kit is coming together well, but as I said before I have never build a kit with this type of brake setup (Westinghouse brakes). I’m having trouble figure out this brake rigging even with the instructions. Anyone who’s put together one of these care to show me a picture of the brake setup on yours, or at the very least some kind of clear diagram? I can’t find anything on google image search

Thanks for the tips, I am sort of stuck at the moment and I cannot find ANY picture on the internet of the bottom side of one of these GNR westinghouse-braked vans. A picture of the underbelly for reference would be really helpful right now if somebody can provide one. Thanks

With a stroke of luck I found the instructions. Here’s a picture of them and my progress so far. Any more tips would be appreciated

I have experience with a soldering iron but not familiar with putting together brass kits. I have this GNR clerestory fruit/milk van, whitemetal body and brass uframe. I attached a photo. Unfortunately this kit didn’t come with instructions. I’m looking for any tips like which way do you make the folds ect. also note those 2 small frets have printed on them “GNR 18’ fish van”, but the fish van is the sliding door version. I don’t know if those belong in this kit

Thanks to my OCD, I am on a mission to replace ALL of my plastic underframes of my rolling stock with brass ones. Rumney models has an excellent selection of underframe kits. I just ordered the Alan Gibson 17’6” x 9’ steel uframe kit (4mm scale) but noticed Rumney models makes the same uframe. I have 3 question. 1: does anyone know which of the 2 is “better”, and by “better” I mean more detailed and easier to work with 2: does anyone know of more companies that make brass uframes in 4mm other than Rumney, Gibson, and brassmasters? 3: what would be the best way to cut off the plastic uframes from already-built parkside/cambrian/Slaters/ect kits? A dremel maybe?

I noticed something on the Pow Sides website... When scrolling through the PO section there is a drop menu for each item where you can choose if you want just the transfers or a complete pre-lettered kit.... Pow Sides has a number of different salt van liveries, but the drop menus for each show that they don't carry pre-lettered kits for the 4mm salt van, your only option is transfers only. This is where my question comes in... There is one single livery on the whole website where it gives you the option to buy a pre-lettered kit for a 4mm salt van. I e-mailed them to ask if it was just a mistake but did not get a reply. Do you guys think this is just a mistake/error, or is the pre-lettered kit actually available (I will provide link below). I am in need of these salt van kits and would gladly purchase a handful of them and just paint over the pre-printed livery. Link: https://www.powsides.co.uk/product.php/fleetwood_salt_fp/?k=:::2103552:0

I’m having issues with a large percentage of the Alan Gibson 4mm wagon wheels, I’m talking about the black ones, as well as the ones that come included in the parkside wagon kits. Some of my wagons are wobbling significantly. I know it’s the wheels because I tested the wagons out with wheels that don’t appear to be wobbly and the wagon doesn’t wobble. When I gave the wheels a test spin it appears the axles are straight but the wheels are either moulded crooked or sitting on the axle crooked. I tried everything to fix this, I even used a back-to-back wheel gauger. Nothing seems to work. does anyone know how I could fix this? In the future I am sticking with Romford wheels.

Does anyone know why Slaters isn’t producing the PO wagon kits? And will they ever become available again? They are still being produced in 7mm. The kits were the various Gloucester and Charles Roberts open wagons, salt van, and rectangular tank wagon

wow that list is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks

Thanks for the info

I am looking for a list or database of all the British railways wagon numbering to help with future kit builds. Example: Gunpowder van - B887xxx Meat van - B870xxx ect...

Wow, its crazy how something manufactured so long ago can just remain untouched for so long. Even the packaging is in mint condition. I wonder how many thousands of these were around when they were in production. Back then no internet to place orders. Did you buy your cask wagon in shop or through a catalog?

Since we were on the topic of the accuracy of Hornby RTR wagons a few posts back, I was wondering about the accuracy of the Hornby refrigerator van. I know this was discussed before but i would like to learn a little more. I found this old drawing on the internet a while ago, it seems to be the only photo/drawing of the wagon on the internet. Does anyone have any photographs of this wagon?

This is actually a Mink G

This week i was in the mood the hunt around for some older kits as i would like to add more diversity to my layout. What i was able to get my hands on these last 2-3 weeks were... x2 Coopercraft GWR Dia O5 4-Plank Opens x1 Ratio NE exNB Empty Cask Wagon x1 Sutherland Models LNER Fish Van x1 Slaters Rectangular Tank Wagon x1 Colin Ashby GWR 20T Mineral Wagon x1 D&S Models GNR Clerestory Fruit/Milk Van I've already started working on the D&S Clerestory Fruit/Milk Van, unfortunately the roof ventilators were missing, i will either search online for something i could use or just leave it without them. The Sutherland Models LNER Fish Van is the same as the Parkside one, only difference is that it has a whitemetal underframe and plastic body whereas the Parkside version is full plastic. The Ratio kit looks very old and you can tell in the quality of the mouldings. Looking forward to building.

I was actually just thinking that. Thanks

Before I build this 4mm 51L NER perishable goods van whitemetal kit, I want to know what you guys do about the louvre vents on the sides and ends. Is it best to drill them out or just paint them to give the appearance of open slots. If you do drill them which tool would be best suited for this as it is a 4mm kit so they need to be cut very finely. Here’s a pic from the wizard models web store

Thanks it was a very basic kit, and it is now the first wagon i own with an 8'6 WB lol.

Will do, i noticed that too, it was a tad bit annoying when i tried to make the ends and side perfectly square w/o having a corner gap

By the way, just finished the 51L kit I posted above, with nothing but a craft knife, super glue, sandpaper, and tweezers. I am very happy with how it came out. I just ordered an alignment jig to help with future kits

Interesting, I will give that a try with the next one. I just ordered the ventilated version of the d1664 like the one shown a few posts up