Virgil

It's a Hammant & Morgan Duette running on full wave and high impedance.

John, thank you for the post. I have since carried out running tests of several different makes of motors which has led me to the following conclusion. Hornby black can motor - as fitted to Bulleid pacifics etc; ran similarly hot to the Mitsumis after about 5 to 10 minutes at 12v no load. Bachmann can motor - as fitted to split frame models; also ran hot as above. The unknown make skewed 5 pole motor as seen above in photos, tested as above can motors - barely warm to the touch. Why is it different? My thoughts are firstly that it is open frame allowing much more cooling, seems obvious really - oh well! So Mitsumis are probably no more prone to hot running than other can motors - even under stress. P.S I shall continue using Mitsumis but not for the pictured chassis above as the open frame motor's higher rotational speed suits the low ratio gearbox fitted and so will better suit the passenger loco. Regards Doug

OK John, I have tested two Mitsumis so far and they run hot under no load, I will test the rest of the batch to see how they perform. Thanks for the input and link to the data sheet. Regards Doug

Thanks Nick, I'm also researching further.

Nick, is there a 12 volt rated version? I thought this was one as I'm sure that I bought it in a batch that was advertised as 12 volt.

I have noticed that the Mitsumi I fitted as a replacement for a K's HP20(?) motor gearbox runs very hot driving only a replacement brass gearbox of unknown manufacture, see photo. So I tried instead an open frame motor of similar dimensions to see how that performed and it's barely warm to the touch. Then ran another Mitsumi under no load and 12 volts as before, again it ran hot. It appears to be a characteristic of the design, question is - does it lead to a shorter life? P.S. Any ideas on the manufacturer of the open frame motor and also the gearbox?

Sorry Mike, I meant the other Mike (Hughes) regarding MTK parts for my Britannia tender! {:O)

I too have noticed that the Mitsumi I fitted as a replacement for a K's HP20(?) motor gearbox runs very hot, uncomfortably so. At present driving only a replacement brass gearbox of unknown manufacture, see photo. So I'm about to try an open frame motor of similar dimensions to see how that fares. Any ideas on the manufacturer of the open frame motor and also the gearbox?

Hi Mike, any progress on my queries? Regards Doug

Mike, it already has Premier Products coupling and connecting rods, (and very likely a chassis), they will be producing more Britannia motion kits in a couple of weeks so I'll go that route to match the rods. Still need motion brackets though to hang the motion from. How about supplying rear tender ladders also the step like square on the right rear of the tender top?

An interesting range Mike, needed I'm sure as an avenue for the average person to obtain larger locos for a more reasonable price; good on you for reintroducing and improving them. Parts needed so far include valve motion, motion brackets for the pair, crosshead guided for the West Country and loco and tender body detailing parts for both, are you in a position to supply such items? Regards Doug

Work in progress on stripping the 7mm Britannia, a lot of paint on there! West Country body with partly rebuilt WC and Britannia tenders, still a lot of work to be done. Brass chassis and Slaters wheels not shown, the chassis are good solid brass, nicely produced.

More of the same.

Amazing what a dose of paint stripper can do, and nothing fell off! Gives a chance to see the materials used, brass of course and looks like nickel silver for the smoke deflectors, (you can ping the front edge of them) and the upper cowl and chimney feel too hard for white metal, pewter maybe?

Thanks again to all for the comments and opinions. I can definitely rule out Graham Farish, there are enough differences to prove it, including the chimney streamlining. Scratch build is always a possibility, the unusual touch of the uncovered clack valves I find intriguing, they surely never ran in service like that?

Jason, I followed the link, thank you. As the Hamblings version is listed as 1950 manufacture it would presumably not feature the later modifications so I think it's unlikely, still a mystery loco then!

Thank you for that, Hornby are obviously on the ball there!

That confirms that the safety valve position is correct on the brass body - which raises the question in my mind, did Hornby in their last issue of the unrebuilt BoB/WC locos position the valves as moved from their original position? Has anyone got a recent issue to hand and would like to comment please?

Here as requested is the underside, Jamieson - Crownline?

Indeed the use of the word "Modified" in connection with the Bulleid pacifics is commonly used for the rebuilt versions. Does anyone know if the later built (unrebuilt) West Country locos had the safety valves situated aft of the (covered) steam dome instead of in front of it?

Thanks for all the replies so far. Was there a modification to the BoB/WC locos which could explain the resited valves? The clack valves under the open cover are presumably sited correctly? Did the later Hornby model BoB show a panel here? In other words is the body actually that inaccurate for a modified light Bulleid?

Thanks Neil, I have a rebuilt MN and I agree with your comment regarding the 3 safety valves. I am unfamiliar with the safety valve etc arrangements on this body as it differs considerably from the Airfix body which I believe is accurate for a BoB.

Hi, I would be most grateful if someone would advise as to the manufacturer of the pictured brass OO scale body and also confirm that it is a WC/BoB and not a Rebuilt Merchant Navy, for which it appears to be too short. Note shown compared to an Airfix BoB Winston Churchill.