Virgil

Thanks for the info and link, I’ve been in touch with him and he’s now on the lookout for a complete example to work from, so fingers crossed! Doug

No not my thing really but interesting.

I don’t know why but I’ve had an offer from the seller for £25!

With a Surname like yours I'm sure that you won't need them!

To make the frame problem a bit clearer the close up of the modified frame may illustrate better the original design (or lack of it)! The bottom of the frame continued straight across from the driving wheels and just above the bogie frame to over half way across the wheel cutout, then straight up in a 90 degree angle to the top of the frame at 90 degrees again. The section removed included the front frame spacer, the screw holes for which can be seen on the original frames as pictured.. The available space for the bogie to swivel was limited by the difference between the outside of the frames and the wheel back to back, very limited. Don't get me wrong I enjoyed the challenge and relish problem solving but problems such as this could well have defeated the beginner and even perhaps the average modeller of the time.

Now here's a conundrum, one of my current projects is a built K's GNR Atlantic bought as a runner needing attention. Initial testing on my rollers revealed it ran but in the opposite direction to all my other tested locos suggesting it had never been run or used on an operational layout. So the motor connections were reversed and the loco's direction normalised, all seemed fine. Tried on my test oval for the first time it refused to even look at the 3rd radius curves but ran fine on the straights. Inspection revealed the the front bogie rear wheels were fouling the loco chassis frames which protruded halfway into the shaped cut outs for the wheels on the body. I had to grind away and shape the front part of the chassis by around 10cm in order to allow the front bogie to swivel and not just allow straight line running only. To me it begs the question, how did K's expect the kit to be completed and run with the supplied chassis, did they not test build them? I have included a picture of my loco with the modifications and also an unmade sealed kit recently sold on EBay which is a later issue to mine - having the HP2 motor and the frames are still identical to my unmodified frames! Has anyone else ever built one of these Atlantics and run it successfully without modifying ? Doug

As old as I am though as yet my driveshaft doesn’t need fixing!

On EBay now as I write, an OO LMS Black 5 possibly Grafar. One for the collectors maybe? Doug https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/00-TRIANG-Hornby-SHAFT-DRIVEN-CAST-METAL-BLACK-4-6-0-LMS-LOCO-AND-TENDER-/224824228654?hash=item3458917b2e

Thanks Mark, £18, fits my budget! I will endeavour to post improvements when they happen though it's one of several projects currently underway. Just received from EKM Exhibitions are a new pair of Bachmann cylinders and valve gear from the Bachmann 2MT which will replace the Hornby cylinders and valve gear.They also list a base plate for a 2MT and coupling rods again 2MT, worth chancing that they'll fit at £3 and £2 respectively. Thanks for your interest. Doug

Ah that explains a lot, I'd forgotten about the Hornby Ivatt class 2, as you suggest the conversion is probably Crownline as looking more closely the bunker base and framework look to be white metal as well. Thanks for the info, it all makes sense now. Doug

I recently purchased a loco on EBay listed as "Kit built possibly K's" which was which I bid on as I like the heft and feel of a white metal bodied loco - and it was cheap! On arrival it soon became clear that it wasn't white metal and looked like a Bachmann Ivatt 2MT body on a Triang/Hornby chassis with added pony trucks. My first action was to place the body in a container of brake fluid to strip off the thick LMS red under which could faintly be seen the original BR numbering and lining,. It soon became clear that this was no standard Bachmann body but a quite well done conversion from a Ivatt 2M 2-6-0 tender loco using a white metal cab , steps and push/pull fittings, brass detailing fittings, and plasticard tanks and bunker. Which begs the question why anyone would go to the trouble of carrying out the detailed conversion when Bachmann already had the 2MT in its range? However I like the clever workmanship and value the uniqueness of the loco on which the builder spent so much time and skill, and will try to return it to its former glory after the presumed acquisition by an unsympathetic owner who so poorly painted it red.

That's a good idea, I'll look into that, thanks.

HI, I'm detailing and improving a Triang L1 SR 4-4-0. The body is missing both cab steps and one footplate step. Has anyone thoughts on where I could source replacement steps of the correct type? I notice that most L1 locos and bodies on EBay are missing at least one step, I wonder if someone has seen a probable demand for them and considered manufacturing replacements?

HI, I'm detailing and improving a Triang L1 SR 4-4-0. The body is missing both cab steps and one footplate step. Has anyone thoughts on where I could source replacement steps of the correct type? I notice that most L1 locos and bodies on EBay are missing at least one step, I wonder if someone has seen a probable demand for them and considered manufacturing replacements?

Hi, just caught up with this topic as I plan to do the same ie converting a K's C2 Atlantic to a Marsh H2 , have you made any progress with the project ?

The loco is now fully disassembled after judicious and careful pressure applied to the main body and handrail knobs. The continued soaking in water clearly worked though slowly and the water in the ice cream container is showing a brownish tinge. Success at last!

Slowly but surely and the footplate and toolboxes are free. The main body is still a solid lump along with the disfiguring glue round the handrail knobs and smoke box front but I’m now sure that it’ll all come good. I’m very glad to have removed the chimney as it was canted over at a ridiculous angle. Thanks for your advice on this, I’m sure that the end result will be well worth the rebuild.

As an aside to this topic, I do think that K’s kits are underrated by the hard core of experienced modellers. I actually think that the mouldings and wheels are excellent and motors ok if you get a good one. However I had to laugh at the moulded detail on the chimney cap of this 57xx, it’s clearly a thumbprint of the person that moulded it!

That sounds like a good idea, I’ll give it a try, thanks.

All four steps are off now as is the chimney after being submerged in cold water all night,so some progress has been achieved. Thanks for all suggestions received, it looks very promising.

It’s definitely glue, apparently ladled on.

Oh dear, I have the awful feeling that you might be right as so far paint stripper appears to be taking its time.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

I have a badly put together K's kit that needs breaking down into its component parts and rebuilding but is held together with hard brown glue, probably applied many years ago. I have tried immersing the loco and simmering for half an hour in boiling water but without success. Does anyone know of a solvent that will dissolve this type of glue please?