Grande Maurice

I'm about to purchase a Bachmann 3MT 2-6-2 tank engine - the more recent version that's 8-pin DCC Ready (Bachmann 31-976 Standard Class 3MT 82005 Late Crest). I was wondering if anyone had experience of this model & if it runs well at slower speeds, as i read one review say (whilst the model looked lovely) the running gear was outdated & performed poorly. I'm also after suggestions of other classes of locos that share a similar sound to the 3MT. If possible i'd prefer to find a £40-55 Hornby TTS sound decoder, than £110+ on a premium brand like Coastal DCC or YouChoos. There's a cost-of-living crisis don't you know ! All suggestions welcome...

I partly agree with the comments about sorting out the track but i've tried my best and cannot work out the issue, so I have no other option. If i could hire an expert for a few hours to sort it out i would. I need to buy Stay Alives (SA's) anyway as, having committed to DCC sound, I'm fed up with constant glitches or minor stalls causing the sound to switch off and start again. SA's are the only remedy for this & the reason they've taken off, as for many modellers it's hard to have perfect exhibition standard track. And i figure, if I'm buying SA's then I'll buy powerful ones. Also, my 'end to end' layout was designed for shunting and so i need reliable low speed running with no stutters or pauses. And, to answer Albie's point, I've got 'live frogs' with 'juicers'. The problem track (in 2 areas) is the short piece of straight track (7 cms) that sits between 2 isolated points.

I adjusted the run time via CV 113 to the maximum value 255 which improved it slightly but still only getting 1.0-1.5 secs. Disappointing really, as Train-O-Matic went to the trouble to produce an item perfect for Loksound, but (IMO) shouydl have added greater power reserves (4-5 secs to equal LaisDCC products). Do you know if it's OK to use a Lais DCC stay-alive with a Loksound v4? If so I'll switch to that but add a switch so I can isolate the stay-alive when programming.

Thanks for your comments. It's my first layout and my track laying and electrical knowledge has been sorely tested. I've sorted most gremlins out but there's on area of 'dead' track between 2 points that i cannot seem to resolve. Almost every loco I have slows or stops there, and as it's a shunting layout low speeds are required which makes the locos even more likely to stutter or stop. Locos fitted with the LaisDCC Stay-Alives work no problem but this new TRAIN-O-MATIC SPP STAY ALIVE doesn't seem to have enough juice to cover this poor section. Also, the loco in question is a Heljan class 15 (green late crest) and it's probably the most 'sensitive' & stuttering of all the locos i have. I've checked the copper strip contact behind all the wheels and they all look fine so not sure what the issue is.

I recently purchased a 3-wire Stay-Alive from Road & Rails that is suited for use with Loksound 4 (and above) sound decoders - 'TRAIN-O-MATIC SPP SMART POWER PACK (STAY ALIVE) LOKSOUND COMPATIBLE'. It works but its reserves are pretty small (1.0-1.5 seconds with sound & lights on) and nowhere near as large a reserve as the Lais-DCC Stay-Alives i have wired to TTS sound decoders. The problem is I don't think I can add Lais-DCC models to Loksound decoders although I'm not sure if this is because it will damage the decoder or because they don't have a 3-wire set-up (which I understand would make them temperamental when programming - unless i detach the Stay-Alive first). What I need is a bigger Stay-Alive with 3-wires or advice as to whether I can customise the Train-O-Matic Stay-Alive by adding another identical capacitor in series. Does anyone no of a suitable Stay-Alive or a way around this issue? I'm sorry if this is in the wrong section but I don't know how to find the different sections on this blog. If there is an electrical decoder section could someone guide me towards it - thx.

Thx RAF96 - I'll give that a go at the weekend.

I watched a very helpful video on YouTube by 'Strathpeffer Junction' (Parts 1 & 2 - How to make a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit [Hornby TTS Sound Decoder and Others]). In the video he fits a stay-alive to a TTS class 37 decoder, and as part of that he has to adjust the value of CV29 (by subtracting 4 from value of CV29) in order to tell the controls to turn off DC running option (which will otherwise play havoc with the stay-alive). I did this install into a Hornby Stanier 4MT steam loco with great results - i'm thrilled with it - using TTS decoder and a Lais DC stay-alive. So my next loco to receive this upgrade was a Bachmann class 37 (recent dcc ready model). On this occasion I used a DCC Concepts Zen stay-alive, and a TTS decoder. The install seemed to go well with new directional LED's working and great sound... but when I applied commands to move the loco everything stopped. Ah-ha - I realised I hadn't adjusted the CV29 setting, so I did this next, but to no avail. When i apply a movement command everything shut off again. SO, as I have working directional lights and working DCC sound, I'm guessing this is an issue to do with CV settings to support the running of the stay-alive component. I can of course change the Zen stay-alive to a Lais DC stay-alive but it means re-doing some very tricky soldering and wiring, so I'd prefer to see if I can get it working properly in it's current guise. Could anyone give me any assistance on this as I'm pretty stuck.

I'm looking to upgrade most of my locos by adding 'stay-alives' to resolve intermittent DCC sound drop-off and give smoother shunting performance. I had good success last week doing this with a TTS decoder (with some RM help - thx). I understand I can do this ok with a Loksound 4.0 onwards but I'm not sure about earlier Loksound 3.0 or 3.5 chips. So my questions are: 1. Can you add a 'stay-alive' to a Loksound 3.0 or 3.5 decoder? Ideally the tried and tested truth, and not 'company policy' (they're all out of warranty anyway). 2. How can you determine what type of chip you have in your loco ie. what series of Loksound, but also if it's a Loksound chip at all and not another brand? Just in case this comes up, I don't have a PC (all my IT is Apple) and I don't have any sort of decoder testing device (I can only use my NCE Powercab). I look forward to your sage advice (uhmmm... chips with sage...🤔).

Good points. I have locos that run perfectly without any hesitation and no drop in sound,... and I have locos i've bought new that stop-start-stop-start constantly with drop-off of sound. I think that alone probably discounts the track laying issue (although it's a fair point) as they're running the exact same routes. Anyway, I'm just delighted to have sorted out a temperamental steam loco. Cheers...

Thx for that. It is, as Nigelcliffe says, a question of changing CV29 setting but reducing whatever value it gives by minus four. I also found this great video from Strathpeffer Junction - an instructive video (parts 1 & 2) on retro-fitting stay-alives (below). I'm pleased to day that i now have a Hornby Stanier 4MT that runs like a dream at snails pace over multiple points. Previously I would only work consistently on simple straights. However, I do need to source and install a very small On-Off switch to the live wire, so I can turn off the StayAlive unit when I'm programming the loco, and I wondered if anyone could recommend such a switch. As a footnote, and considering the prices charged these days for nice DCC locos, manufactures should fit 'Stay Alives' to all DCC models as standard. Smooth and consistent running, even at low speeds, should be mandatory from all manufacturers and models. As a rule, I will now return any locos I buy from new, that doesn't run smoothly, as it is not fit for purpose. The more of us that do this, the more likely manufacturers will raise their game/quality. I used a LaisDCC product with a TTS decoder, and I've got a DCC Concepts version to test so I'll report back on this thread over the coming week. Thanks again...

I've just completed a very nerve racking, arduous and eye straining installation of a LaisDCC 'stay alive' onto a Hornby TTS sound decoder (S15 in a Hornby Stanier 4MT). It's a success and allows what is otherwise a very tricky loco, that stops all the time, to run smoothly at low shunting speeds. However, I have discovered an unexpected issue. When crossing certain point areas the loco has a minor momentary 'short', which then sends the loco into a full speed lunge down the line in the reverse direction!! Scrambling for the emergency stop button i can bring the loco to an abrupt holt, but it's not a great situation. I'm assuming this is being caused by the 'short' confusing the 'stay alive' to suddenly send all it's power in a huge burst? I'd welcome some advice as I'm lost on this one. As an aside, this little LaisDCC 'stay alive' gives 9 seconds at full speed (when lifted off the track [so no sound]) which is very impressive.

A very delayed reply - and thanks to all who contributed - i got he Seep PM1's top work in parallel- EVENTUALLY!! As Brian suggested - it was down to the trickiness in the seating of the PM1's. If they're not 100% at the required angle they don't want to play. (note to self - avoid Seep points, save up, and buy Cobalt or Tortoise point motors next time!).

Thank you everyone for your advise. I uncoupled a pair of the Seep PM1 point motors from the underside of the layout so they hung loose. I then fired the point and they both fired together ok, but maybe not with the snap i'd expect. On closer inspection of the point motors seating I can't really see any obstructions and (as Brian warned) the PM1's are very fussy about seating, despite my efforts to align them perfectly. I'm going to try (as Michael suggested) a 4700 CDU to see if the extra power will overcome the PM1's fussiness. I'll report back in due course.

Thank you - very belatedly for everyone's comments. I've had to leave the layout for some time due to other commitments, and only had a chance in the last few weeks to get back into it. The long & short of it is, that i've re-wired all points related wiring on the layout to install 24/0.2 wiring, so allowing more power from the CDU to reach the points (than 8/0.2 or 16/0.2). The result? Well of the pairs of points i need to switch in parallel, only 1 works well. The others fire a single point whilst the other one stutters and murmurs but fails to move or does nothing at all. I've tried each point in isolation (and ensured they are well adjusted for free movement) and they all work perfectly, but as soon as they're paired up again, nothing. I've triple checked all the wiring and it's fine. And infuriatingly there's nothing different between the pair that work and those that don't. The distances are small as it's a 1.75m long end-to-end TDM layout, and most of the points sit inside a central 1m long zone. I've tried 2 different CDU's - Gaugemaster's 2.5A, and BCL (Brimal) starter unit - with identical results. Any last suggestions are most welcome, as after this I'm just gonna give up on parallel switching, and re-make the control panel box (and its graphic) to allow for a separate switch for each point? It's a massive pain but at this rate I'll never get the scenic work underway.

Thanks Pete - sorry to be such a dawk - I’m forum savvy now.

Hi BoD. No offence taken / I’m a novice so good to check these things. Yep, I’ve got IRJ’s throughout. I’ve also modified all points for DCC (I did make the error initially of leaving the wires in - oops). I’m starting to think the issue is as you suggest - Seep points not operating cleanly so not triggering the built-in polarity switch. I’m gonna investigate that this weekend. Thanks. Failing that then I may then try adding frog juicers to a few points to see what happens.

Thanks BoD. Stupid question (i'm new to all forums) but where are the sub-forums or subject types listed?

In answer to comments by BoD and Richard.H I am using new Peco code 100 track. All my locos are standard Hornby, Bachmann and Heljan diesel models. I'm also using Seep PM1 point motors (with micro-switches) for all the EF points, and Seep PM2 point motors for the two IF points on the layout. I have one surface mounted Seep GMC-PM20 with a dedicated frog juicer (Gaugemaster DCC80). This morning I tried running my most dependable loco on the layout with the Points BUS switched off and I still get continuity issues. I'm wondering if i should disconnect all the individual frog wires from the main points loom and then test it again. If it works ok i can then reconnect one frog cable at a time and see if i can identify the culprit. Failing this i wonder if using something like the Tad Valley Dual Frog Juicer Universal (6 inputs) will resolve my issues, whether it's an issue with polarity or an issue of loco wheels bridging rails creating shorts.

Thanks AY Mod for relocating my post. Where am i meant to post questions like this? On the RM Web home page it lists the forums and i click on BRM Magazine and then Start New Topic. Where am i going wrong?

I’ve just completed track laying and wiring of an end-to-end layout with 12 points (10x electro-frog [EF] & 2x insul-frog [IF]). All points are new Peco small or medium radius. The issue I have is that before connecting the points BUS wiring, I tested the layout with just the main DCC BUS connected. All my locos ran fine across the layout, and only suffered occasional stalling at the EF points as obviously there was no current passing into the frogs at this time. Confident, I then connected up all the electrics on the points BUS. Testing the points they all fire ok BUT.... trains are shorting out when crossing all the points. Using my multimeter I got continuity faults all across the whole layout?! I am baffled. It would appear that this must be an issue with the points wiring and more specifically with the EF’s but being new to model railway electrics I’m lost on where to start. Any help most welcome.

Hi everyone. Sorry for the late reply, and thanks for all your comments. I'm afraid i'm still at a loss on how to wire these parallel points. I've attached a plan of my layout and marked the points that will be in parallel. All parallel pairs are electro-frog except one where one point is insul-frog. I need someone to tell me (or better still draw) which terminals need to be shared/linked - on Seep PM1 (EF) or PM2 (IF) motors. The Brian Lambert diagram i originally posted (above) shows cable lines but i've no idea which cable these are or which terminals they go to on Seep PM1 or PM2. To assist you i've added Seep PM1 and PM2 cable diagrams and also a diagram of the two scenarios i have. Any help much appreciated.

I've just acquired a lovely used Bachmann class 37/0 in green. I didn't come with the detailing pack so i'm going to buy one. Simple..... er, no... it seems not. Most of the packs i can buy appear to have a large single snowplough that clicks into the NEM coupling socket thus removing the ability to fit a coupling. I fancied the idea of fully detailing each end, and with Kadee couplings and snow-ploughs at both ends. I appreciate this may not suit the purists out there but my layout my rules. My question to you learned gentlemen (and ladies) is.... is it possible to fit a snow plough that doesn't use the NEM socket and therefore allows me to fit my Kadee couplings? If so then where can i buy these? I've attached below images of 2 locos that appear to have achieved what i want to do. I've also added pictures of different parts i've come across on Google. Image called Parts 1 (in the sealed bag) are pretty much what's available to buy. The next 2 images appear to be options that could work but which i cannot source. The final image shows what i want to avoid having to do. Any advice most welcome......

Def not going to use 'series' wiring - 'parallel' is my intended route and i have a decent CDU wired into the system. My question is what is the wiring diagram for parallel wiring two electro-frog points together? I don't understand the drawing i attached - what are the red, green, and black wires? Also is this drawing just for insul-frog points? I should hasten to add that all my points are either Seep PM1 (for electro-frog) and Seep PM2 (for insul-frog).

Hi. I'm trying to complete the electrics on my first every layout but having a few issues. I was hoping to cut down on the number of switches i need for the points on my dcc layout by having a few wired in parallel. It'll make operation much simpler. I have 10no. electro-frogs but also 2no. insul-frogs (it's along story but i'm stuck with these). I've found only one diagram on-line but i can't make sense of it as it doesn't tell you which wires are which and it appears to be just for insul-frog. Can anyone help with some labelled diagrams? Thanks.

Piggybacking onto this topic, can anyone tell me what switches i need for the 2 points serving the 3-way turnout? Are they SPDT or DPDT? Thx.