Timber

The outer frame is now placed over the top, using the front steps for alignment. There may be some attention required to get the alignement correct but if correct the rivets for the rear step and the step itself should align (small strip of nine rivets towards the rear of the frame). Once aligned clamp the two parts and run a fillet of solder around the edges, this will hold the two pieces together.

The inner frame has two steps at the front. These need to be folded towards the etch.

Fitting the outer frames... These are a two part assembly per side. An inner frame and an etched outer frame.

On to the body..... Starting with the footplate. If the sandpipes are attached to the frame and not the body then the holes circled in red can be filled with solder. If Clack valves to the front of the boiler are to be added (later versions of the prototype) then two 1mm holes will need to be drilled where the green cross hairs intersect. Depending on the motor choice the area in orange can be removed to create more clearance.

Can someone please help by sharing the name of these types of safety valves...

Finally using 7mm handrail knobs and a variety of dressmaking pins the sand pipes and drain plugs are added. Once complete I will clean off all the excess solder and give it a good general clean up but not paint until I have the motor and gear box possitioning clearly worked out..something that i will do after some of the key body parts are assembled. My appologies if I have laboured any points.....I recognise that for many people reading this I am stating the obvious but I am adding the detail for completeness.....

The leading wheel travels within the chassis. If required you could fit a bearing but I simply thicken the frame with an insert or two.

Now I have three points of contact that, with the help of gravity and simple mechanics, will keep the loco on the track. This is a well proven system that is simple and robust.

Next up is to create the pivot for the leading 3'6" wheel. Within the etches there is a sub frame that can be fitted so that it rocks the wheel. But more recently I have used a simple 6BA bolt that the axle rides on. The benefit of this method is that once the wheels are on the loco, it easy to adjust the bolt to level the loco....not pretty but seems to work just fine. The bolt is simply fitted in place by soldering a nut into the frame over the small hole at the front of the chassis.

Next I fit the brake hangers....with hindsight these could be fitted before the beams but the beams are 'springy' enough to be moved out of the way. I use dress making pins, scratch the crome off and then solder. I finish with a 14 BA nut on the wheel side of the frame just to help create more of a mechanical join as one of these working lose after painting is a pain.

Once first side complete repeat for second side and the compensation for the drivers is complete. The motor and gearbox is designed to drive the trailing driving wheel.

Now with a 10BA countersunk screw, fit the beam with a half nut to provide clearance in the frame and a full nut soldered in possition to hold the beam. Screw is cut to size and soldered.

The beams can sit directly on the thick side of the bearing but given there is very little metal I recomend that small boots are fitted to sit on top of the bearings. These are made from spare strips on the etching. Offer the bearing to the outside of the frame, mark with a pencil and solder the boots on.

Once all the bearings are in place the next step is to fit the compensation beams.

Once the chassis is soldered the next task is to fit the bearings.... The photo is not very clear but the approach is simple. The bearings are available from Markits. The brass bearing has a 0.4mm slot on each side. The slot is slightly offset. Firstly touch the side of the frame slots with a file to form a very small taper. The frame etch thickness is 0.5mm so this small adjustment will help with fitting the bearings. But it really does only require the lightest of touches. The leaf spring etch is then folded forward towards and the bearing is dropped in behind the spring with the thinest edge, between the slot and the face, facing outwards. The bearings should gently push home and then the leaf springs straightened to keep the bearings secure.

Here is another view from the top....

Now fold the frame. Once folded place the top of the frame upside down on a flat surface, i use a spare porcelane floor tile; push down, check the faces are square and solder. Look carefully at the centre spacer, this folds to about 30 degree to allow clearance for the plunger pickups....front dummy cyilinder is folded to the same angle as the dummy plastic 3D printed cylinders.... All etches joints are on the inside of a fold.....

Before folding there are some changes to the etch that I would recommend. Next time I refresh the artwork I will add these in now but for now these changes will have to be made by hand. If you look at the photos of my model you will see the sand pipes at front and back. These attached to the body. This is fine and work OK. But for other locos I am working on I decided to fit the sand pipes to the chassis. Otherwise when the body is removed from the chassis, the body sits on the sandpipes and this creates a point of weakness. Hence why this change is applied. 1mm holes should be drilled in line with the blue crosses - these can support handrail knobs that will then hold the sandpipes. There is also a small adjustment required to the rear spacer....just file the tag by 0.5mm so it will snuggly fold into the frame.

First step in the construction is to build the chassis. The chassis folds together from a single etch.

Yes...always happy to help fellow members....

Finally some other parts to finish the model from the usual sources.

Here are the available 3D printed parts.....

Here is the layout of the etch. Etch reference 34347 08/03/21

The model is a mix of etched and 3D parts the attached picture shows the split. The 3D printed parts include all the brass parts that are availble in brass on plastic printed 3D depending on budget.