Steve Hewitt

Just back from the Paintshop................. The four non-working signals have been completed. Next will be two working signals for Denton Holme North. Steve.

I think you've got it right. There were so many pre-grouping companies involved with Carlisle in several joint ventures. Thanks for your observations. Steve.

Whilst waiting for the paint to dry............. I'll make a start on the next pair of signals. These are both tall lattice posts, one a Fixed Distant for Dentonholme South and the other a Non-working Starter for Dentonholme North. I'm using MSE etches for the posts: This is the turning I've made to fix the post in the baseplate: This is the baseplate: How to solder the turning in place: Result: The 1/2in brass tube which will locate the signal in the baseboard: Soldered in the same way to give: A post in its mounts: The Non-working signal will still need a weight bar and bearing: Again its an MSE etch. As are the ladders, with 0.4mm N/S wire added to each stile: With finials added (and lamp for the L/Q Distant): The U/Q bearing, lamp etc. will be a 3D print, added after the painting. Which is the next step............ Steve.

Assembly...... Not a lot to put together on this signal: The turning on the base of the post (seen earlier) ensures the post is vertical in the baseplate. Like so. To fit the signal into the baseboard, my usual 1/2in dia brass tube is used: The weight bar bearing we saw on the previous post is carefully aligned: The ladder has also been fitted. The weight bar is made up from some N/S etches made for me by Les Green: I've added a Gibson turned finial, but failed to take a photo - sorry. The Lamp, its Bracket and the Arm Bearing will be one of my usual 3D printed items, again from Les Green. It won't be added until after the painting - it makes masking etc. so much easier. This signal and the previous Fixed Distant will be off to the paintshop now............ Steve.

Another small signal before they go to the Paintshop together...... This one is a short LMS/BR round post adjacent to Dentonholme South box, controlling the South exit from the Dentonholme Joint Committee line, I believe. First step is making the components: The post is assembled from two brass tubes and a brass turning where it is to be "planted". This is the baseplate for the signal. (Note that the line controlled by the signal comes in from the Wall, and as such will be permanently "ON". The weight bar bearing is made from a MSE etch, soldered to its fixing which is machined from square section brass bar. This has been drilled to fit the base post and cut away to leave a representation of the clamps which fix it in place. A length of etched ladder has been "improved" by adding 0.4mm N/S wire to the stiles. Next I'll start on the assembly.......... Steve.

Assembly..... (Sorry for the wait, but Cornwall has been very pleasant ) Post installed in its foundations. With the ladder in place. A couple of shots with the lampman's staging in place: Ready for the paintshop. More soon.......... Steve.

Hi John, I'm home again from glorious Cornwall - fantastic. I have a selection of some 10 assorted sizes of North Eastern Lumber, all from their packaged H0 scale range. Remember, being American, all sizes are in inches. Also being H0, they are a shade light on 4mm scale. Their 3in x 8in size I find very useful, but my stock covers widths of 6, 8, 10 and 12 inches and thicknesses of 2, 3 and 4 inches. Not sure what I can tell you about Handrails. I fix the Stanchions in place first, then measuring carefully I bend the handrail itself from 0.3mm N/S wire, trying it for fit as I go. The complete Handrail is then soldered to the stanchions, just below the head of the pin. This can then be dressed with a very fine file if you wish to improve the look of it. If the handrail surrounds a complete stage, as on a bracket signal, I make the join by sleeving a short length of 0.5mm OD x 0.3mm ID tube over the join and soldering in place. Where the handrail is formed into a loop near the top of an access ladder, I form it using my "Brass Assist", or alternatively a suitable sized drill shank. Don't expect to get each one correct first time. Hope this helps, and don't hesitate to get back to me if anything isn't clear. Steve.

Hello John, Thanks for your kind comments. I'm away from my workshop for a while so I'm not able to check the timber sizes just now. The handrails are made from Lace Pins for the stanchions and 0.4mm Nickel Silver wire for the handrail itself. I bought a wide selection of the timber when they were available at a local show. There has been some discussion on RMWEB about a UK stockist, but I can't remember the details. I'll get in touch again when I get home. Steve

Thanks Les.

I managed to get to Blackpool today and took a few shots on my phone...... The two boards which show Lime Street, the Hotel and the Station Frontage are the basis of the display: A short extension has been made to allow the Faller Road system to be operated. (Just a loop with queuing facilities) A simulation of the western end of the South Roof with a painted sky completes the additions. Without the usual barriers, close scrutiny is possible: An updated information panel explains the context of the display: With no railway to get in the way, I could get a few shots looking out of the station from the concourse: And some shots of the concourse: And the rear of the Hotel, which is not usually visible: Another couple of shots from the front of the model: Makes a change from two vans, and a team of six operators. The Road system runs automatically, leaving plenty of opportunity to chat to the visitors. I can't wait now to see the whole layout back together and a chance to run some trains. Steve.

Hi Jonathan, All the 3D printed parts I use come from Shapeways. They are created by Les Green, and many are available in his Shapeways shop: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/railway-odds-and-ends I don't think he's put the square signal posts in the shop yet, but I'll ask him to do so. I know he's a bit busy at the moment so its not likely to be immediately. Steve.

Lime Street on display this weekend....... John is taking some of the layout to the Model Tramway Exhibition in Blackpool this weekend. He's actually leaving 42ft 6in of the 45ft long layout at home He will have the two boards which contain Lime Street itself, with the Hotel and roadway etc. Good chance to come and see some of the stunning scenic work which has been created............ Venue is : Old Tram Depot Rigby Road Blackpool Hours Saturday 10:00 til 5:00 Sunday 10:00 til 4:00 Steve.

Thanks Jon, The strangest part for me is the Back Blinder. It being fixed to the rear of the arm, passing between the lamp and post before the blinder itself can obscure the rear of the lamp when the signal is lowered. Consequently it can also act as an arm stop if it touches both the lamp bracket (at Danger) and the post (at Clear). Very fiddly in 4mm when it also has to clear the optical fibre at the rear of the lamp. I've previously had to extend the length of the blinder to make it reach. Steve.

Assembly....... I always prefer to use solder when assembling my signals, but when using 3D printed parts this is not possible. However, making as many sub-assemblies of the metal parts helps somewhat: I first assembled the signal's foundations: and secured the post with a spot of cyano. This is the lampman's platform. The lamp and bracket I assembled earlier. The position of the main axle was drilled 0.7mm. Using this to position the arm, I was then able to locate the lamp correctly. The tiny plates which are fixed to the front and rear of the post to secure the axle were also added: The ladder came next, glued to the post and soldered to the baseplate: Just above the top ladder fixing you can just make out a short length of brass tube. This is 0.5mm OD and 0.3mm ID and will help to secure the handrail of the lampman's platform. (I'm doubtful that 0.3mm N/S wire glued to the post would be strong enough joint) Last addition for now was the Finial: The arm and platform will not be added until everything has been painted But that won't be for some time as my caravan is calling..... I'll probably not do any painting until I've got a few more Carlisle signals to a similar condition....... Steve.

Hi Mike, Yes, I have and quite successfully. A few years ago I bought some "Transparent Glass Paint" in a craft shop. This will do the trick. I use a Red, Yellow and Turquoise colour as appropriate. My preferred method, however, is to use MSE's lens material. I punch discs to an appropriate size with a leather punch - sizes from 2mm to 4.5mm dia in 0.5mm increments. I glue this to the rear of the aperture with either superglue or Clear Fix or anything else which will dry clear. Finally, once everything is dry, I add a drop of Clear Fix to the front of the lens to reinforce it. I now also add a drop of Yellow Glass Paint to Distant aspects as I think the colour of the MSE material is a bit weak. Hope this is helpful, Steve.

Thanks Stephen, very informative indeed. Steve.

Carlisle - Moving North to Denton Holme South Jct.......... The next signal is seen here: There were a large number of companies involved in the development of the railways around Carlisle. The Settle to Carlisle line being very well known, it was the work of the Midland Railway. This signal is very much a Midland product, so it is probably on a route developed by that company. It is a Fixed Distant signal and still retains all its lower quadrant features. I'm basing the model largely on a MSE kit, but with a few changes as usual. I've started by collecting together most of the main components, and sub-assemblies: I've decided to use a 3D printed main post instead of the cast one supplied. This will allow me to easily route the optical fibre for the light inside the post. Having cut the post to the correct length, I've turned the base to produce a spigot which will allow it to be planted in the turned brass foundation seen to its left. Adjacent is the baseplate and the 1/2 in diameter brass tube which will be used to mount the signal on the baseboard. Using a four-jaw chuck, I've turned the finial spigot to fit the top of the post. This has also squared up the base of the finial. In this picture you can also see the distant arm assembled from some five etched components. The lamp bracket will be glued to the post, and its joint strengthened by the lace pin. The lamp casting was drilled through 0.5mm for the optical fibre, then the base of the lamp casting was also turned to ensure its squareness before soldering it to its bracket. The ladder etch has been improved and strengthened by the addition of 0.4mm N/S wires to the stiles. Next steps will be assembly of the main structure, painting and then final assembly and installation of the LED. Steve.

Sorry to disappoint....... The signal will be located quite near to the edge of the layout, up against a wall, I believe. (That's why the left arm is not working, the line it controls is extremely short) Consequently, the lack of a second weight bar and pull wire will not be clearly seen if at all. For a similar reason, signals controlling routes which "come out of the wall" are not lit - nobody can see the lights. Thanks for your close interest. Steve.

Here's the completed model............ In this shot you can see the "Rocking Shaft" used to transfer the Pull of the Signal Wire from the Main Post to the Doll: You can also see the lamp man's staging made from stained strip wood from North Eastern Lumber. The Rocking Shaft is 0.5mm N/S. Its bearings are 7mm scale "medium handrail knobs" bushed down to 0.5mm dia with brass tube. Because the left hand signal is not working, it isn't connected to a pull wire on the main post: The left hand crank is not attached to any Rocking Shaft, its just allows that for the one working arm to rotate freely within itself. A rear view: Here you can see the optical fibres used to carry the light of the "Gas Light" LED up to the lamps. And with the lamps lit: I hope to put a video together shortly...... Steve.

Stock-piling arms...... I usually make signal arms in batches, can be tedious, repetitive work but spread over several days as things dry etc. its quite enjoyable. Here is the current batch almost ready for use. There would have been more, but I had forgotten how few Chiltern decals I had left Steve.

Hi Mike, Thanks for the link. I'm afraid I can't agree about the easiest way to Centre a servo. The GF Controller has a switch which does exactly that. The centre position of the servos is also called the "Safe" position, and I use it during set-up to position each semaphore arm to a mid-position. The various functions of the GF Controller are selected using these four "dip switches". In this photo, Bounce has been switched ON for both servos. Safe has also been switched ON, which will ensure both servoes are at the Centre position and locked there. Moving the Safe switch to OFF will then allow bother servoes to be adjusted and operated. The Invert switch is OFF meaning the logic for control switches is "Closed switch means Danger." When the Invert is set to ON, the logic for the control switches is "Closed switch means Clear". A few months ago I made this video: It tries to explain how easy the GF Controllers are to use. Hoping this helpful, Steve.

Completing the static bits..... I've now completed the non-moving parts for this signal. Last components to be added were the Handrails and Ladders and fixing the Baseplate assembly and main post together. Here are a few pics with the assembly ready for a clean and trip to the paintshop: More in a little while, when all the moving parts are ready for assembly..... Steve.

Hi Simon, Thanks for your comment and question. The simple answer is "It's up to you, whichever is easiest." However, here are a few guidelines: Ensure you have a clear view of the signal when you are adjusting the controls. (I've made the mistake on a club layout, spending time beneath a baseboard with someone shouting "Up a bit" "Down a bit" "No, the other way" etc. etc. Some people have experienced electrical interference being picked up by extended leads between Controller and Servo. Always use "twisted" leads, and I recommend keeping them down to 2 metres in length. If you use very long leads between Controller and Servo, you can make your own with "Shielded twin core". Use the shield as the "Common" i.e. Black or Brown. To minimise the risk of interference route long leads separately to any traction feeds, particularly if using DCC. I hope this helps, but don't hesitate to get in touch if you need any more advice. Steve.

A few more steps..... Here is the baseplate for the signal, complete with the turned foundation tube and the guide tube: The 1/2in dia tube which will secure the signal in the baseboard is soldered in place: The two dolls have been prepared from brass tube. The finials are from Alan Gibson, the arms are MSE. I've used a 3D printed "Lamp, Bracket and Bearing" and two cast "Shoes" on each doll: This is a "trial fit" of the signal in its foundations, not yet fixed in place. More soon..... Steve.

The next signal for Carlisle........ Is the "Denton Holme South Jct." Down Home. Here's the prototype: This signal is an LMS/BR balanced bracket with a tubular main stem. Only the right hand arm will be working, as the left hand arm controls a route which runs straight into the wall. The heart of the model is the bracket which holds it all together. I've followed my previous practice, using 4mm square brass turnings to hold the trimmers at the correct distance apart. These have been drilled in the lathe to take the main stem and the two dolls. The two brackets are from N/S etches made for me by Les Green and the cast "shoe" is another of his, this time cast in resin. The pivots for the rocking shafts are 7mm scale handrail knobs. More soon-ish. This weather is not good for hiding away in the workshop. Steve.