Steve Hewitt

The LED to Optical Fibre connectors are available from Les Green's shop on Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/product/QRZ3TDVSC/led-connectors-for-printing-v4?optionId=74139707&li=shops Yes, I put a 1k ohm resistor in line with the feed. This is suitable for supply voltages from 9v to 15v. On installation I recommend using a 12v ring to supply all the signals on a layout. Hope this is helpful. Steve.

Back from the Paintshop............. I almost forgot to take any photos before adding the moving parts: I have already installed the three optical fibres. You can see them routed up the structure. This rear view shows the "Backlight" effect where the optical fibre is turned sharply into the rear of the Lamp. The LED is fitted into the 3D printed connector and supplied with 9volts from the PP3 battery. The three fibres are fitted into the connector, which is a bayonet fix into LED holder. The heat shrink is for visibility and protection. Any damage to a fibre will almost certainly require its replacement which can be a right p.i.t.a. On with the moving parts now. This is when the signal comes to life...... Steve.

Continuing the assembly........... I have previously prepared several sub-assemblies, such as the stanchions, the dolls with fittings etc. First I fitted all the handrail stanchions Fitting the dolls to the bracket was fairly straight forward, keeping an eye on alignment. The design of this signal is based on Pryers Plate 103, so I added the tie-bars which help spread the load of the overhanging bracket. I also fitted the ladders at this stage I was unsure about when to fit the actual handrail as it can make subsequent installation of the operating bits and pieces quite fiddly. Eventually I bit the bullet and fitted it now. Cleaning, polishing, bath in Cellulose Thinners then painting............ Steve.

Assembling the bracket.... The purpose of the bracket is to support the Dolls. Like the post, the dolls need good foundations , and these foundations will also strengthen the bracket. I like to support dolls by slotting them into something rigid, but that's not easy with lattice dolls. I have chosen to provide a short spigot for each doll which will locate it accurately and give a good basis for soldering. As seen previously, a 2.4mm dia rod is a good fit inside the main post and I will use a tube of that diameter to locate the main doll. For the other two dolls, I measured the diameter of a spigot which will be a good fit for each. Since the Bracket sections need to be held as wide apart as the main post, I measured this at 4mm. The two spigots were turned from 4mm square brass bar, and drilled through 0.9mm for the optical fibre. Into my well used piece of Tufnol I drilled three holes to suite the spigots and at the correct spacing of 25mm centre to centre. The two turned spigots together with a length of Silver Steel ready to assemble the brackets to the Main Post. Here the Silver Steel has been replaced by a short length of brass tube to form the spigot for the main doll. The assembly ready for soldering. Ready for the handrail stanchions. The stanchions are made from 0.45mm dia Lace pins. Each has been given a characteristic joggle. Beams to support the stanchions are made from 1.0 x 0.5 mm brass strip, drilled 0.45mm for a pin at each end. The Tufnol block was used agoin to hold the signal while the beams were soldered in place. The stanchions will be fitted next. Each of the dolls will now be fitted with Lamp Brkt, Bearing and Lamp using a 3D printed item. They will also get their weight bars and bearings before fitting to the signal. I will also need to design, make and fit the Cranks for the operating wires. Which is for later........... Steve.

Time for some more Southern Signals............... The railway is Tony Teague's "Churminster and Stowe Magna", which Tony's topic on RMweb tells us all about. Having built but not yet delivered the semaphores for Churminstaer due to Covid restrictions, I am making a start on the Stowe Magna signals. Tony has recently posted design information for the first couple which are both Rail Built. If you click on the little arrow top right above, you will see the drawings. As usual, I will start by gathering together many of the components and sub-assemblies required for these two signals. The first items I tackled were the Rail Built posts. These are made from SMP Code 70 Bullhead Rail. The spacers are Nickel Silver wire. This is the Single Post. The Post for the Bracket signal comprises of four rails, two pairs made like the Single Post. These are held to the correct spacing by scraps of etch soldered across them. The gap between them is some 7inches on the prototype, which I set to 2.4mm using a couple of suitable sized drills. The two pairs will eventually be held in position by the signal's foundations and the bracket work. The front or rear face of the post. A side view of the post. Followers of this Topic will know that I like to provide solid foundations for my signals, usually featuring a turned brass item into which the bottom of the post is fixed. This item also ensures the foundations are truly vertical to the baseplate. With a four rail post I decided to support its base both internally and externally. Looking vertically down on the baseplate, the brass turning has a hole which is a very close fit on the outer edges of the four rails. Centrally through the turning is a brass tube which has a diamter that is a close fit in the inner edges of the four rails. This tube prevents any tendancy for the bottom of the post to collapse due to sideways pressure on the post. The hole through the tube allows the optical fibres from the signal lamps to pass through the baseboard. Hopefully the photos show what I mean........ The three small tubes will eventually guide the operating wires down to their servo motors. The guide tubes are soldered to the turned item for support. The large brass tube is 1/2in dia, and will locate the signal in its position on the railway. The servo assembly will also use this tube for alignment when it is fixed under the signal. A very similar approach has been taken for the two rail post. This time the turning just fits closely to the outer edges of the two rails, and a smaller tube suports their inner edges. This time there are only two operating wires to guide. The post on its baseplate. Finally for today, a shot of the brackets and dolls being prepared for future assembly. The bracket etches, from MSE, have been beefed up by the adition of 1x1mm brass angle along the top edge, and 1x0.5mm N/S strip along the other edges. More soon............ Steve.

You might not see it in an unlit photo, but the two Fixed Distants have yellow ends to the fibres. They are treated to a drop of Amber Glass Paint. Steve.

Another Lockdown project....... This next signal is for the GWR "square post era" layout I've contributed several signals to in the past. Having left the terminus at Edgeware Road, the next station down the line is Acton Wells and this is one of the Down Home signals for that station. It is a balanced bracket signal with three dolls. From the left, there is a short centre pivot arm controling access to a siding. The centre doll controls access to a platform and has Fixed Distant below. The right hand doll controls the access to the mian platform and laso has a Fixed Distant below. More soon.......... Steve.

Hi Michael, The light is an "Off White" and the colour is given by the the coloured spectacle. I use a Warm White LED and add a touch of Amber glass paint to simulate the oil lamp colour. The spectacles are coloured with the MSE material. Steve.

Back on Topic again..... During the Lockdown I've managed to complete a set of signals for a model of Kirkby Stephen being built at home by a local (Lancashire) modeller. There are two Home and two Starter signals. One Lattice Post and three Round Posts: These follow my usual methods and materials being LED/Fibre Optic lit and servo operated using GF Controllers. There are also four LMS/BR Ground Discs: These are built from Palatine Models etches. Again LED/Fibre Optic lit, servo operated with GF Controllers. Quite tiny. About 12mm tall. More soon.... Steve.

Absolutely FAB-U-LOUS Jon.

Hi Woodbine, Thanks for your question. First rule is if its Metal to Metal I always try solder. With white metal/brass I use Carrs 100deg. solder. (It doesn't require the Brass to be pre-tinned.) If you're not comfortable with that, I suggest using Loctite Retainer, so long as the Brass Tube is a good fit in the White Metal Post. The balance arm is likely to be held in its own bearing, mounted on the surface of the Post. If solder is not your choice then Super Glue is OK. Again the two parts must fit together quite snuggly. In this case, on final assembly, the Lace Pin I use as the pivot for the Weight Bar should be fixed into the Post with Solder or Loctite to re-inforce the joint. (Careful not to solder/glue it all up solid.) I hope this helps...... Steve.

Now for something totally Off Topic........ I've recently taken a break from Signal building to pick up again a project I started more than a decade ago! I'll not go into the constructioin details, but here are a few pics of the result to date. Since I have no facilities to use this at home, I've had to ensure it can be safely transported. Opening the Box..... LMS Black 5 of 1936. I had completed the Tender several years ago but the Engine I have built since Christmas. Final details still to complete, but it is now running. I hope it still runs after Painting etc. Back to Signals shortly. Steve.

Not too long at all Jon, that's a really good explanation of your method. Excellent. Steve.

Hi Russ, I've built a couple of LNER ground discs which have working weights and are lit. Details on my Topic here: Best of luck, Steve.

What next?.............. John has spent many hours on maintenance works, particularly point motors, and some electrical installations in preparation for other developments........ The extent of the Ballasting and Point Rodding, shown in these photos he has taken during the re-assembly of the layout, shows the size of the "Weathering" task that is unlikely to be tackled until "Lockdown" eases and visitors are permitted. (At least all the Lime Street Crew regulars have now been Jabbed). Without the Roof and Lighting Pelmets - a view not normally possible. The new additional lighting at the rear will increase visibility of the station buildings and the backscene. John's wife, Pauline, has helped him to erect all the baseboards so the layout will shortly be running again and complete apart from the Hotel. Waiting impatiently, Steve.

Jon, that's another stunning signal. Video? - YES PLEASE. Steve.

Happy New Year Jon. What a good start you're making. The gantry looks superb and will no doubt be a fantastic model when its completed. The latest Covid restrictions will keep you out of the pub so no slacking. Keep safe Steve.

Finished in time for Christmas............ John has completed the "Point Rodding" installation and Galvanising - Grey Primer paint. The farthest from the Signal Box - in Platform 11. Looking back across the Station Throat towards the Signal Box It won't look this pristene when Rob gets his hands on it. Weathering of the Ballasting and Rodding, to blend with the previously completed sectons, will be a priority once travel and meeting are permitted. In the meantime from John and all the Lime Street crew.

Now you see it.............. John has just sent me the latest pics of his handywork. The baseboard gap, with the rods accross the join. The rods separated by the slitting disc. The gap closed up. Steve.

Pointing in the right direction........ I have previously shown how John laid out the point rodding prior to the recent Ballasting activity. Apart from the Stool runs, this was then dismantled so the ballasting could be done relatively easily. Leading out from the base of the Signal Box. Crossing the Station Throat. And so on to all the points, and their locking bars. This was then removed and carefully put to one side whilst the Ballast was laid. Once replaced, the crancks were all connected up. Twenty-four point rods in this section. The rodding is 0.8mm square (IIRC) Nickel Silver, the Cranks are assembled from a Les Green etch. A thin plasticard insulation is inserted between each rail and any rod which passes beneath. Baseboard joints require special attention. The rodding is laid across the joint and the joint separated with a fine cutting disc. To ensure an "invisible" joint, the boards are temporarily assembled with a spacing piece the same thickness as the cutting disc. Once all this work is painted and weathered it will look much more subtle. I just hope all John's time and effort is appreciated by spectators. Are the Lime Street Crew considered "critical workers" and eligible for the early vaccine? It seems ages since we ran any trains........ Steve.

Robin, John has sent me this response: "Robin, The ballast I used was Woodland Scenics Granit Ballast the N gauge variety, I like most others find the 00 offering a little oversized. After the rail sides had been painted a suitable rust colour the ballast was laid and dressed down between the sleepers until I was happy with it's appearance. I then followed the well practiced method of saturating the ballast using a fine spray of water with a few drops of washing up liquid in, followed by diluted PVA glue dripped on using a pipet. I find that individual stone chippings will somehow magically move up onto the sleepers during this process, so using a fine tipped scribe they can be pushed back where they belong. The secret is not to try to do too much in one sitting, I usually only do about one foot of double track in one sitting, this gives you time to adjust any problems before the glue goes off and also protects your sanity ! I had an immense area to do but just working through it methodically it soon starts to take shape, the upside to Lockdown is that it has been a great opportunity to get this job out of the way! So now it's on with the point rodding. Cheers, John." Steve.

Quiet but not idle.......... John has kept the team up-to-date with the progress he's made duing Lockdown. You'll recall that he had to interupt the installation of the Point Rodding so that the Ballasting could be completed. He has now completed that mamouth task, and the associated Board Crossings. The gaps in the ballast are left for the Tie Bars and Point Rodding. Special attention is needed where baseboard joints occur. I think John uses waxed paper clamped between adjacent boards as a "release agent" whilst the adhesive is drying. This picture shows the task ahead for Rob who will have to paint and weather the new ballast, and match it with that done previously. John is now on with the Point Rodding - no rest for some...... Steve.

Here's the Video I promised............ Something a little smaller to follow........... Steve.

Jon, Those etches are superb. I'm green with envy. Steve.

Thanks Bryan, Your comments are very much appreciated. Steve.