97406

I’ve used a light detergent solution, ready-mixed car screenwash (also good for cleaning records), or that clear pump-action antibacterial spray. All appear good and didn’t affect the paint. I’ve also used acrylic paint thinners, but this created a bloom on the surface of the paint. A happy accident as I wanted a worn finish under the weathering.

I missed the boat with the SLW ‘Experiment’ so a Bachmann one will do nicely, having just got a 24/1. That cab front roof profile that dogged the old models is gone.

There's some temporal goings on at Nifkin's Bridge TMD. OHLE next item on the agenda.

I did use 1000 grit wet and dry to remove the numbers and arrows, then then T cut to give the areas a little polish. Once the transfers and etched arrows had been fitted the upper body was masked off and the body sprayed with satin enamel varnish to seal the transfers and even out the finish. Followed by a light dusting of frame dirt acrylic on the lower body sides, and the same paint on the ends but watered down a lot with thinners.

To reduce the effect, I used a thinned down mix of acrylic black paint and thinners applied on the inside edges of the glazing (from the inside) with a tiny brush so it got drawn in. Better to experiment with a thicker paint and thin it, rather than the other way around or you risk getting it on the front. It's worth bunging the large handrail holes with some yellow acrylic paint beforehand or you risk the paint oozing out under capiliary action. Makes them go away, too!

Definitely looks like an 86. Hornby bits on show.

Here's mine after some tinkering. I've been after an 86/3 for a while now.

No, you’re in luck. Headcode panel pops out and the headcode is an insert.

Hopefully you can see the clips on the body in this pic. I’ll fix the broken lifting eye as the last job before the final assembly.

Oh for it to be held on with screws! It’s the most awkward one to remove out of all my locos, but I have sussed it with 4 bits of plasticard or cocktail sticks. It’s the lack of bits on the chassis to hold on to that got me. Still it looks fine now, if not quite up to the original level of detailing. The replacement parts are sturdier anyway, and the other two will stay as they are. They did have a thin lip around the headcode panel and the plated over ones appear to have a nice piece of sheet metal work which fits over the lip and is secured to the front of the loco. The design of the Heljan headcode box actually makes it easy to reproduce, though technically the existing headcode box surround should match the curve of the front. I didn’t want to file this down and respray the front and it looks close enough keeping it flat. Here’s the current work in progress. Needs the yellow touching up around the headcode panel, lenses, MW equipment and a light weathering to complete.

They look great - it makes me want to revisit the triangular steps on mine, now. It’ll be a while though as currently working on an 86/3 (from the recent Heljan purchase) which is coming on, and then the eponymous 97406, which will be a Frankenstein combination of Lima class 40 with Bachmann 37 cabs and Shawplan windscreens, with the backing plates this time.

I was going to fold them from brass wire or strip, but the eyesight isn’t what it used to be when I used to model in my teens. The couplings are Accurascale - I only have a small depot inglenook layout, which is little more than a powered diorama so locos potter around uncoupled. If I eventually make a larger layout around the depot, then I’ll probably put a loop of wire for tension lock couplings, but I used to do it more subtly than the ones you often see on here. Bufferbeam details are a mix of leftovers from detailing packs and bits of wire. The ETH box is a square of plasticard.

But of course. Happy little cans.

For a moment did think “S**t, have I got epoxy on the bodywork?”, but thankfully it wiped off! Plus I did put the body well out of the way when I was attending to my underframe cockup!

Of course. It's my own personal touch tastefully done in oil from the chassis. I've only just started working on the loco and the replacement chassis parts still need a little refinement. I'll post more pics as I tweak it some more. At the moment I'm concerned if the 2mm acrylic rod I've used in the lights is too wide. The headcode panel just pops out so it can be tweaked until it’s right. This is the look I’m after. https://railuk.info/gallery/getimage.php?id=2729 I think I’ll start a workbench thread. Watch this space!

A trial attempt at sealed beam lights in the headcode panel and a fix for Mr.Sausage Fingers' underframe details. You don't make mistakes, you just have Happy accidents. Multiple working jumpers next.

It’s the fate of the preserved diesels and electrics when the time comes that troubles me just a little. Nothing lasts forever. Still, there’s plenty to enjoy now, thankfully

Damn! I broke the compressor shelf this morning whilst trying to get the body off my new Heljan banger blue 86 and have just fitted one off a Hornby 86 underframe, but with the Heljan compressors. Still, would be interested with the compressor bits for the 3 Hornby models.

And the wooden spoon award goes to me for being the first to break the underframe whilst trying to remove the body which just clips to the chassis. Cue the fashioning of a sturdier set of compressor shelves from an old Hornby underframe. Still one of the compressors needed removing anyway. Remember, I do these things so you don't have to. A reminder to all to be very careful handling the chassis! The headcode panel just pops out making it easy to change headcodes, or plate over. So that may happen at one end later today

The pantograph should be a crossarm one. There is a Judith Edge kit, and it is exquisitely detailed, but it tested my soldering skills to the limit. It is poseable, but the parallel motion stumped me. I ended up doing Novelty with a Sommerfeldt pantograph, as the crossarm was for 86205. Ultrascale wheels can be obtained, but make sure you order the right set, and there’s a 5 month lead time. You will probably need to make new pickups if your original model doesn’t already have pickups that contact the existing wheelsets’ tyres. Bufferbeams have some detail, but I stopped short of the little triangular steps and the socket underneath, for now anyway. It also needs a representation of the door handles at some point. Glazing is cut from acetate sheet at the front with SE Models flushglaze on the sides. Headcode boxes had the lip removed, a strip of 10thou plasticard glued to the front (keeping a small raised lip around the plasticard strip), and 2 holes for 2 short lengths of 2.5mm (outside diameter) plastic tubing. When set the centres were drilled out to 1/16th inch and clear plastic rod used for the lenses. This will allow for lights to be fitted, but I think you will need to get them through the cast cab interiors somehow.

Yes I’d put the High Speed Train first, but the 47 second. It’s a handsome, timeless design and long lasting. The Western is a fabulous piece of design, but short lived alas and I never saw one in normal service, unlike the other two for many years.

They look the same from a distance, but they are different close up. Hardly a dealbreaker though. I did think of modelling N gauge for a while, but one’s ‘maturing’ eyesight is the reason why I don’t and O gauge is a little too costly. The Hornby model is an 86/2.

Basking in the sunshine (well an LED light bulb until I sort out some better lighting)

I've just preordered the mid 80s 86/4s and noticed that Hattons is showing stock of the weathered banger blue ones if anybody fancies one.