Smudge617

We are going off question here, and making a simple question difficult. So, simple question, simple answer, Yes, the decoder you have can be programmed to do what you want using a Hornby select. just follow the downloadable manual. https://laisdcc.com/manual/ Page 9. Interesting explanation from WIMorrison, but that's Zimo decoders, this is a direct quote from the Laisdcc Decoder Manual. CV5. This area controls the locomotives TOP volts. Its total range is 0~255 and its default is zero (in this case zero and 255 have the same meaning - not limited). As with CV2 each of the 255 steps is equal to about 1/20th of a volt. As we have 128 speed steps available at our controllers I like to vary this in even numbers. For this “first step in programming", let’s just say our loco runs far faster than it should and set it to 180.

I only use Laisdcc decoders, and yes, you can change the cv to limit a loco's top end, (if using a CD motor like Strathpeffer Junction offer, it's advisable) I can't remember the cv, but Google: Laisdcc Manual and everything you need is included in the document. Laisdcc decoders are NMRA standard so it should work with a Hornby controller

Just to keep everyone updated, as to how this is all progressing (apart from slowly). Power was coming from the chassis via one side of both pony units on the loco, other side, via the tender pickups, so one side was picking up from the tender and the loco, other side just the tender, the red parts are indeed suppressors and removing them from the board isolates the motor. So I can power the loco via the decoder by just using the tender pickups. But I will have to solder directly onto the brushes as todays brushes are too wide to fit in the slot, and, ingeniously I thought, the springs holding the brushes are fitted under the top of the motor.

Just to keep everyone updated, as to how this is all progressing (apart from slowly). Power was coming from the chassis via one side of both pony units on the loco, other side, via the tender pickups, so one side was picking up from the tender and the loco, other side just the tender, the red parts are indeed suppressors and removing them from the board isolates the motor. So I can power the loco via the decoder by just using the tender pickups. But I will have to solder directly onto the brushes as todays brushes are too wide to fit in the slot, and, ingeniously I thought, the springs holding the brushes are fitted under the top of the motor.

Hi Guys I've done a bit more research and found that this is indeed a Trix Model, circa 1969-71, (Trix went bust in '73) The motor is correct for the model, never heard of a Perma motor though, and it has two pickups in the tender connected to the motor which are also correct. But, yes someone has indeed done some "modifications", and was definitely over enthusiastic with the soldering iron. I've found a service sheet of sorts on the TTRCA website for it as well, for anyone who might be interested. http://www.ttrca.co.uk/A2 Peppercorn Servicing.pdf There is a gentleman in Australia who has given me the "How to" to convert it, but I've contacted the seller and am waiting on a reply. UPDATE. Just got a notification now as I write this, got a partial refund, so the model has cost me the same as a second hand 5 plank wagon, I'll take that.

Thanks John, much appreciated, Your explanation is brilliant, and easy for a novice like me to get their head around. I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks everyone. I've put this on the DCC section, so hopefully I can get this sorted out. On closer inspection I believe your correct and this is a Trix model A2 and not kit built (the clue was the chassis retaining screw located in the stack), so I will be contacting the seller, but as I have already "messed" with it, (general service etc, and re-soldered the detached wire, and re-fitted the front weight.) it's doubtful they will accept a return, but as they described it as a "Kit built all metal model" I might get away with it.

Hi Everyone. I recently purchased from everyone's favourite auction site, a Class A2,(Possibly Trix) but I'm a little (read very), confused as to where I need to attach the DCC harness, as I don't understand how the motor wired up. (Electrics are not my strong suit as RAF can testify) as you can see, the motor is similar to a X03/O4. The Red and Green wires come from the tender pickups, that I get, but the two red covered wires to the front are a mystery, my understanding is that they should connect to pickups either side of the frame or one side via contact through the chassis from one of the two centre wheels, (others being fitted with traction tyres), but there are no pickups, and both wheels are insulated. When it arrived the green wire was not attached, but the motor ran when tested, so I know it's receiving power from the opposite side of the track via some part of the loco, therefore the two red wires are for something, and they don't look like capacitors that I've seen before, so do I simply wire in the the harness from these (observing polarity if I add the tender pickups) and then add the power from the harness to the motor as per an XO3/4. Or insulate the motor, and just use the tender pickups to power the motor. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi Everyone. I recently purchased from everyone's favourite auction site, a Kit built Class A2, but I'm a little (read very) confused as to where I need to attach the DCC harness, as I don't understand how the builder has wired the motor up. (Electrics are not my strong suit as RAF can testify) as you can see, the motor is similar to a X03/O4. The Red and Green wires come from the tender pickups, that I get, but the two red covered wires to the front are a mystery, my understanding is that they should connect to pickups either side of the frame or one side via contact through the chassis from one of the two centre wheels, (others being fitted with traction tyres), but there are no pickups, and both wheels are insulated. When it arrived the green wire was not attached, but the motor ran when tested, so I know it's receiving power from the opposite side of the track via some part of the loco, therefore the two red wires are for something, and they don't look like capacitors, do I simply wire in the the harness from these (observing polarity if I add the tender pickups) and then add the power from the harness to the motor as per an XO3/4. Or insulate the motor, and just use the tender pickups to power the motor.

Yep, did all that when I took the motor out, (after your comment I've cleaned it again). It want's to go but there seems to be a "flat spot" somewhere, (this seems to be where the armature stops). If I apply power from the select it will sometimes move slightly then stops, move the armature 1/8 turn and apply power it goes but I have to have at least half power (usually full power) for that to happen, when I slow it down to just above half power and then increase it again, quite often the motor doesn't increase speed at all, so I don't know if it's the brushes or the winding or something else, and I have no way of checking.

If I use a 14XX motor and remove the long pin brush holder that would probably be easiest. I want to convert to DCC so removing the contact strips I have to do anyway. Or as you say pinch the armature from it, problem is, I don't know what's actually wrong with the motor I have, so trying to fix it is a headache.

Thanks Guys, firstly let me answer Jason, Yes this is mint, no marks, cracks or blemishes in fact if it had come in the box I would have thought it to be old new stock (even though' the Hornby Guide says it was last produced in '72). As for fitting a Comet chassis, that's way beyond my skill set. DCB. The Airfix 14xx motor is so so close to the one I have I nearly bought one, but the 14xx has a pin and spring on the underside which mine doesn't have, and there's no space for one in the chassis. In fact I'm at a loss to identify the motor at all. I've included some pictures so I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to identify it for me. I'm also going to put it on the Hornby Forum as well.

I recently acquired a N2 in lovely condition (but very cheap) as the motor is problematic. It will only run if you remove the body and "flick" the winding housing, it runs for a few minutes then slows and then stops on it's own (it's still DC). I've given it a good clean including the armature but it still won't run without help. I have noticed that the armature gets "blackened" very quickly and one brush is arcing. I tried to replace the brushes with some spares I have (Hornby) but they don't fit as they end up jammed in the spring housing and not making contact. As the brushes may well be the cause of the problem, (or at least one I need to eliminate) I need some new ones but I can't seem to find the right ones. Anyone know the correct ones for this motor and where I possibly might find them? I would be grateful for any help and if you have experienced a similar problem is there anything else I need to look at.

Thanks Everyone. I've tried Peter's spares and about 20 other suppliers and various forums with no success. Luckily I have found someone on eBay who has a tender chassis and motor which looks like the one I need, it has issues with the chassis but hopefully I'll be able swop them around but I should get it up and running. It'll be the last Airfix Model I purchase, too much of a headache. But I will look into finding someone with a 3D printer, get some spares gears made up and safely tuck them away for a rainy day.

Problem I have is this motor has 3 gears inside the motor and no one seems to have spares. Have to wait for the fairs to open up again and see if I can find one then.

Are you fastening the point to your board, and then testing, if you are, you could be bending the motor housing slightly which will cause the motor to stick, Hornby surface point motors are a pain for doing that.

If you've e mailed Markits wait a few days, I needed some 16mm wheelsets last week, it took him a few days to reply (and when he did he quoted me £354.61 for ONE axel, lol, apparently he had "sticky fingers" should have been £4.62.

UPDATE Thanks everyone The motor is an Airfix, and the problem with the motor was that the retaining screws on the motor housing had worked loose and one of the small plastic gears inside had got stuck, Sorted that out, works a treat now.

Thanks everyone, Markits have what I'm after, sent an email asking for their new price as they are using their 2013 catalogue, reply was for £354.61 (inc Vat) per axel Got hold of them today by phone, apparently someone had sticky fingers, should have been £4.62, so have taken the last 3 they have, but more will be available soon.

Ah! that explains why I haven't seen one, thanks.

Many Thanks to everyone for their help, turns out when I put power direct to motor from my DC controller it cuts out, so motor it is, all I have to do is find a replacement. As this motor is not one I have seen before, a little digging is required. But if anyone knows what motor this is, and where I am likely to find one, I would appreciate their help.

Hi Guys, need a little help here. My Castle class loco was happily doing a few rounds on my layout, and it suddenly stops and wont respond to the controller. So I tried resetting the decoder on multiple occasions,(Hornby TTS), but keep getting a "No ACK Pulse" response from my controller, ( I've checked my other models and there is no problem with the controller ). I have all the sounds as usual, but the Loco won't move forward but when I try it causes a short, however, weirdly, I only get a short if I apply power going forward, but not when in reverse (it doesn't move in either direction tho'). Could this be the motor or the decoder

I had a similar problem, one was the wire had broken inside the insulation close to the chocolate block I was using, so I had an open circuit, a multimeter will help you determine which wire is causing the fault if it's that. Also double check you've wired it up correctly. I use Hornby surface motors and I have two Peco P11, second one I fitted exactly as I had the first, (which I fitted a year ago) the new one would work one way but not the other, even tho' the wiring was exactly the same, found out I had to swap two wires around, so now their not wired in exactly alike, and it now works perfectly, weird I know.

Hi, I hope someone will have the answer here. I recently acquired a Hornby/Triang B12 Locomotive. The tender has 16.5mm plastic spoked wheels (tyre width, not including flange). I would like to change them to spoked metal ones, my problem is finding that size tyre, I've tried places like Romford, but to no avail, does anyone know where I might find any. I did think about using 14.5mm but the ride height of the tender would mean it would effectively "hang" on the Loco coupling and would be too low to remain coupled to any rolling stock, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi I'm retrofitting a Eurostar with directional lighting, apart from messing up the soldering on the original plug of the power car and having to fit a lighting board instead, all has gone well on this project. My problem lies in the dummy car, I've fitted the pickups, (both bogies), done the wiring, wired up the decoder as per the manufacturer (Laisdcc) and got nothing, I've checked I have power, and the wiring is correct way round, I've got the correct resistors fitted, and also that the LEDs aren't blown, and are wired up correctly, but it still wont light up, I've also checked the decoders (I even swapped out the LaisDCC for a Zimo) and even double checked the decoder manual, so I know I'm using the correct function key, and all is as it should be. They are both brand new decoders and I can read all the CV's on my programming track (I've left them at their default address) and can find no faults there. This is my 9th retro fit of loco lights, so I'm not exactly a novice but I cannot seem to find the problem, any ideas where I go from here ?