AER_2263

That's an expensive chassis build, but you can't put a price on reliable, good running :-)

PowerFlow flux is one type advocated by some. Although beware, some professional painters will not touch a model assembled with this stuff. I've never tried it....instead I use Carr's red label. I always use this in delicate situations where washing will be impossible - i.e. chassis detailing once wheels/motor are on.

As for the issue with the motor being secured, how about a removable cab roof and firebox assembly. Possibly fix the latter with a small amount of evostick so its easily released for maintenance. The whitemetal boilers are screwed in (if this is the same as their Tal kit) so they are easily released giving access to the motor screws. I have this kit in store, just need to clean up the footplate and start again after making a mess of the curved bends for the footplate splashers.

Looks like it's coming on really well.

How did you bend the curves in the footplate? I've got this kit in storage after attempting the bends and making a mess of it - no amount of solder could hide the poor fit with the splashers! Strange because I can form curved coach

sides without problem but this kit has stumped me.

Sorry to read about this set-back. Are you going to make a repair or buy a replacement fret from Backwoods?

Hope some of this helps...

Not sure the length of the small brass bush is an issue - on the rear cranks mine only pass through the outside rod. On the front cranks the bush should be filed down to only just thicker than the rod. I fitted mine to the cranks with low melt 70 degree solder. Anything higher than that and you will unsolder the bosses from the rods.

Washers - there are already some small nickel washers provided, I used two of these on the front cranks to space the rods out correctly. So working out from the frame I have crank/2 nickel washers/rod with boss/brass bush.

I can't see any bosses overlaid over the rods on the picture above. These are *crucial*, without them there is very little metal left on the rods once they have been opened out to fit the brass bush through.

Good to see the rolling chassis and gearbox together. Take a big deep breath before starting the quartering (hate it, its always a hassle on outside framed locos), be very careful opening out the holes in the rods as they are very delicate. You also may have to unsolder and swap the front spring overlays as I found the etched groove in them needed to go the other round to how the instructions show, so beware!

My Linda is nearly ready for the paintshop, just got the drain cocks to add and the cab interior still to finish. May start my own blog on this site as I've got quite a production line of 009 locos on the go.