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mike knowles

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Everything posted by mike knowles

  1. Hi Ian. The decoder is the "standard (OO)" V4 decoder, not the XL. The locos is a Heljan model with one motor removed and has been running fine for the last year with this decoder. Note the speaker is an EM2 not an EM1. I'll PM you re the EM3.
  2. Having also heard it - all I can say is what he said!!! Just fitted an EM2 speaker in my O Gauge Class 26 (using your sound chip). Again sounds fantastic. Just need an EM3 for my 37 now, any news on delivery of these?
  3. Ha, thanks for the clarification, Sean was a bit deflated when he saw your comment. In fact almost as flat as the front of a Heljan 25! Perhaps add a smiley next time! Glad you like what we're doing though.
  4. Further to the photos of the Sealion wagon above, one aspect of the model I was not happy with was the buffer heads, being too thick and having a rather domed appearance. Initial thoughts were to replace them with some from Northamptonshire Model Railway Supplies (cast white metal body with turned steel head) however when I tried to remove the PRMRP buffers I found they wouldn't budge having been superglued on (good stuff that Zap glue!). Not thinking I could hand file them and achieve a flat front face I carefully tried trimming one back on my electric disc sander. Resting the wagon on its side on the table of the sander to keep everything square and applying VERY light pressure it worked a treat! See photo below.
  5. With regard to the 25, as Sean has said much time and effort was spent trying to rectify the incorrect flat front of the Heljan model. Sean was very grateful to the K&WVR for allowing him access to the full size version based there and numerous photos and measurements were taken, all of which confirmed the inaccuracy of the Heljan model. Initial thoughts were to simply substitute JLTRT cabs for the Heljan ones but comparison of these against the photos and measurements taken earlier showed up further problems. Ultimately the fronts and cab doors from JLTRT were amalgamated with the cab sides, roof and headcode boxes from Heljan to produce the most accurate result. Even so the JLTRT cab fronts had to be "cut and shut" as well and a lot of filling and sanding was required to blend it all together. All brave stuff on a model of this value. Everyone, including myself who has seen the result in the flesh agree it is spot on, however as always one man's meat is another man's poison. As for the 37 I originally started off with the purchase of a complete but unpainted factory sample model purchased from the Heljan stand at Warley a few years ago for about half of the normal retail price. When it finally got to the top of the to do list and I started to examine it I was disappointed to find Heljan had made the same mistake as Bachmann had done on their 4mm model, i.e. the cab windows were all in one flat plane whereas the two outer windows should be raked back slightly. Also there was no representation of the raised beading around the glazing. Now I have modified a number of the Bachmann 4mm models in the past using the excellent Shawplan etches and laser glaze but alas these were not available in 7mm (are you listening Brian!). So plan B was instigated which involved swapping the Heljan cabs for a set of JLTRT ones again picking up from previous 4mm modelling were I had swapped the cabs on a Bachmann Class 25/3 with those from a Silver Fox version and also combined Lima and Bachmann parts on a Class 40. So a pair of cabs were obtained from JLTRT and measurements showed the swap could be done with a modicum of blending/filling/sanding. I was just plucking up the courage to saw the cabs off the Heljan model when my son suggested I got the roof and side mouldings from JLTRT as well and ditch the Heljan body completely. This seemed "A GOOD IDEA" which is how I came to end up with a JLTRT body on a Heljan chassis. The Heljan bodyshell, was subsequently sold to offset some of the cost of the JLTRT body. Further detailing of the bogies with the JLTRT brakes, steps etc was just done to further improve the model.
  6. I've also been building a Sealion ballast hopper using the kit from PRMRP, mainly etched brass with a few white metal castings. I must admit I encountered a number of issues with the kit mainly due to inaccuracies in the etchings. Whilst the basic body parts went together OK the problems started when adding the detail. Generally the etched holes for locating wire handrails etc were way oversize for the wire to be used but the main problem here were the holes in the bufferbeam for the shank on the white metal buffers to locate in, which were so oversize, parts of the holes were still visible after the buffers had been installed. Also the etch used to locate the hopper door operating wheels was such that when used as supplied the operating wheels were far too low so it had to be removed, modified (shortened) and refitted. I think the wheels are still a mm or so too low but I couldn't face taking everything off again! Then just when I thought I'd got to the last job, attaching the bogies, I found that the cross shaft between the handbrake operating wheels at the end of the wagon fouled the outer bogie wheels to such an extent that the wheels wouldn't turn never mind any thought of the bogie rotating. So again the bogies had to be removed, stripped down and modified to move them 2mm inboard, hopefully the photo below will show this. One advantage of this modification meant that I could reduce the size of the hole for the bogie retaining screw which like the other holes mentioned above was way oversize and allowed the bogie to move forwards/backwards and side to side as it wished! Note this new hole was drilled after the photo was taken. Fortunately I had gone against PRMRP's instructions when assembling the bogies by screwing them together instead of gluing/soldering them so dismantling wasn't a problem. I also shortened the bolster by a couple of mm as I felt the bogies were too wide overall and this helped to reduce the excessive amount of sideways slop of the axles. All of this was a shame, as overall I feel the kit captures the look of the prototype really well, the use of etched brass for the body being a great advantage over thicker resin or plastic alternatives. I suppose in many ways it just shows the age of the kit/etchings. Certainly it came as a bit of a reality check after recently building (in 4mm scale) a couple of the Penbits sprung loco bogie kits. The etches in these kits were the best I've ever come across, it almost "clipped" together. Maybe PRMRP should see if Ian Penberth could redo the artwork for the etches! Anyway a few photos of the completed model (awaiting painting).
  7. Slight progress on the signal, addition of the linkages from the arms to the balance weights. Made fro 0.3mm wire but instead of just bending the ends through the holes in the arms I picked up on an idea in Peter Squib's book (thanks Peter!) of making yokes from 4mm scale etched signal ladder stiles. In this case from Bill Bedford Models as I had it in stock though other sources are available. Simply cut off a length with three holes in it. The linkage rod is fitted to the central hole and then the strip bent into a U shape and clipped over a piece of 0.3mm wire soldered into the hole in the signal arm/balance weight lever.
  8. Currently recovering from some treatment on my knee which has put me on crutches for a few weeks. So I've temporarily moved the workbench into the dining room (can't manage the stairs up tp the railway room) and made a start on the signals. First one is the platform starter, a semi scratchbuild using various brass sections from Metalsmiths with etched and cast items from Scale Signal Supply and based on an amalgamation of prototype photos from the area pulled off t'internet.
  9. Further to the in progress photos of 37039 posted above I've received some photos from Roger now that he has weathered it. See below; For good measure he has also done my friend Sean's Class 25, a Heljan loco with JLTRT cab doors and cab fronts (to correct the Heljan errors). See below; I think they look superb!
  10. Ha yes, you did a super job on that for me! Many thanks again.
  11. Glad you like the station building (and Rob's rolling stock). I'm currently working on a model of 37039. A JLTRT body on a Heljan chassis detailed with parts from JLTRT, see in progress photos below. Hopefully delivering it to Roger Manton at Kettering this weekend to get it weathered.
  12. mike knowles

    Dapol 08

    Further to my post numbers 1282 and 1293 regarding fitting a Loksound decoder, just to let anyone interested this has now been successfully done using a 21 pin V4 decoder without the addition of an adaptor board or stay alive capacitor. Following removal of the blanking plug the decoder was simply plugged in, though as it was noticed that it did make contact with the suppression chokes on the PCB a strip of insulating tape was placed between the two as a precaution. Testing on our layout (on which incidentally the trackwork is handbuilt using C&L components laid to O-MF standards) showed the operation of the loco to be smooth and reliable with no hesitation over the pointwork.
  13. mike knowles

    Dapol 08

    Thanks for the reply which echoes my thoughts. Anyway the plunge has been taken and a decoder ordered from Jamie, I'll let you know how I get on with it.
  14. mike knowles

    Dapol 08

    I've been following this thread with interest, particularly the discussions regarding decoders. My son has just taken delivery of his green, stripey version which he has purchased as a "basic" DCC ready version, but to which he wants (me) to add a sound decoder. I note that the instructions supplied with the loco make no reference to any particular make or type of decoder and the inclusion of the (incorrect) 21MTC logo quite frankly meant nothing to me. Given that Dapol cannot assume all purchasers will be followers of RMweb or will look on their website for updated information then as supplied it must be inferred that any make or type of decoder will be suitable. Now whilst not wishing to upset Paul (Chetter) whose sound decoder is excellent (I have one in my 4mm scale 08), my son's personal preference is for the decoder supplied by Jamie Goodman from The Chinnor Princes Risborough Railway, which is based on the ESU Loksound decoder. Given that my son is not interested in having any of the lights working (we do not have lights on any of our other locos) so these could be unplugged from the PCB if necessary could anyone please confirm that a 21 pin Loksound decoder; a) will fit b) will provide the necessary motor control and sound c) will not invalidate Dapol's warranty.
  15. Cheers Pete I used to own a 2.3 litre HC Viva. At the time I thought it was really quick, but the Octavia diesel I now drive would probably blow it into the weeds!
  16. Thanks to everyone for their likes etc. A few other scenic items have also been made/acquired. Firstly a Bachmann provender store. Prototypes of these existed (not sure if they are still there) at both Wick & Thurso. Initial thoughts were to build one from scratch but seeing Tower Models selling them at half price at the Kettering O Gauge Show prompted a purchase. To suit the layout the doors at the end of the building will probably need moving to the opposite end, so a bit of RTR bashing but still a big time saving over scratchbuilding. Also at the Kettering Show and for a bit of light relief the GJH Plant Company kit for a burger van was purchased from Invertrain! Basically plastic mouldings with some whitemetal details it went together quite easily and has been named after one of our former club members. The Car shown in one of the photos above is the Arena Models kit of Tony Pond’s 1981 Scottish Rally winning Vauxhall Chevette HSR which my son Robert, (Lord Flasheart on here), kindly bought me last Christmas. As this falls right in with our modelling period the intention is to have it on display in the station car park (too good to be a tow car for the burger van!). The main body and chassis parts are resin castings with whitemetal and etched nickel silver detail parts, not to mention an abundance of transfers! Superb kit, though I’m still plucking up the courage to tackle the extremely small etched detail parts! Finally a start has been made on the harbour wall. The intention was to model it as stone block walling with areas repaired in concrete. In excess of 16 feet of this walling will be required so it was decided the best approach would be to produce small panels away from the layout which could be attached later and the joints hidden by vertical timber posts. Initial trials were carried out casting polyfilla in moulds to produce panels approximately 140mm long by the required 90mm high by about 8mm thick. However this proved less than successful as the panels proved to be quite fragile. Having initially dismissed the use of DAS modelling clay as being too expensive due the to the large length of wall involved we were lucky to meet up with David Wright at the recent Midland Railex Exhibition who kindly gave us a very useful demonstration of using this material which in particular showed how thinly (and hence economically!) it could be laid. So as a test piece a rectangle of 5mm foamboard was cut to the dimensions as before and covered on one side with the modelling clay, a bit of practice soon got things moving. After being left to dry it was found that shrinkage of the clay had caused some curling of the panel, however by scoring a grid of lines through the outer layer of the back of the foamboard we found we could then bend it back so it was flat without cracking the clay on the front. Scribing of the joint lines in the blockwork was then done using a dental pick and painting/weathering carried out using artists acrylic paints though we would agree with David that enamels may be better as they do not soak into the clay and dry so quickly. Finally some scatter material was added along the bottom (below tide level) to represent the weed/algae found there. The photos below show the completed test panel, not bad but the painting/weathering probably needs some further work. Whilst at the show we purchased a copy of David’s book Modelling Ports & Inland Waterways: A Guide for Railway Modellers which contains loads of information and is well worth a look. Only about another 50 panels to go!
  17. Further to the last post on the construction of the station, the roof area was initially covered in plain 40 thou plasticard and on top of this strips of Slater’s slate tiling were laid. This proved to be quite a long and tedious job, not helped by variances of slate size from one sheet to another which meant keeping everything aligned quite awkward. How some folks have the time and patience to cut and lay individual slates is beyond me! The roof lights were covered in 20 thou clear plastiglaze finished with 40 thou by 40 thou glazing bars. Finally the smoke vent was added to the ridge and the slates painted with Games Workshop Cobus Grey acrylic paint. That brings it up to its current state, final finishing requires a bit of weathering on the roof and addition of signs and other furniture. Hope you like it!
  18. Cheers Phil Good to meet up with you this afternoon. Your layout has got the grey matter working overtime!
  19. Thanks John I'd love to go and see Wick & Thurso stations in the flesh myself but the 400 odd mile trip from East Yorkshire keeps putting me off. However compared to yourself in Cornwall I'm nearly half way there so maybe it's time to break out the Octavia! (Can't afford a Quattro!). Cheers Pete. Hope to post a bit more soon.
  20. Right time to start on the scenic bits! Lord Flasheart took on the dubious honour of painting the rail sides and chairs and ballasting the track. Painting was done using Railmatch Sleeper Grime, don’t like the rust paint usually used – too David Dickinson (orange)! After trialling several products we finally chose to ballast the main running lines using Woodland Scenics Medium Granite (Grey), product ref B1382. This was laid in the “usual” manner, i.e. laid dry, carefully prodded into place, sprayed with water and then glue applied via an eye dropper. As an experiment we tried using Scenic Cement from Woodland Scenics instead of diluted PVA. Whilst it was certainly very fluid and soaked into the ballast very well, unfortunately we found it didn’t have sufficient adhesion to properly hold the ballast in place. However mixing some neat PVA into the Scenic Cement overcame this problem without losing the fluidity. For the sidings we used some foundry sand which we purchased from some guys who were operating a layout at the Festival of British Railway Modelling at Doncaster last February and it has worked very well. Sorry can’t remember the name of the layout! Numerous Wednesday evenings were spent doing the ballasting but a fine job has resulted. In some of the previously posted photos you may have seen the rudiments of the station building, so some details on its construction. As mentioned previously the layout is based on Wick/Thurso, as is the station building, though those familiar with the prototype will easily recognize that it isn’t an exact copy of either. The walls consist of a 5mm foamboard core. This is covered on the outside with Slaters embossed plasticard to represent the stonework. Painting of this was done by initially spraying it matt black, then when dry, various shades of Humbrol enamels were stippled on and roughly blended together with excess being removed to reveal the black background. Again once dry, very dilute Humbrol pale stone was applied to the mortar courses and finally a dusting of talcum powder was applied to tone everything down and blend it together. So more of a Jackson Pollock than a Turner or a Constable (I certainly don’t have the skill or patience to paint each stone individually)! However I’m quite pleased with the results and like the randomness of it. The inside walls are clad with plain plasticard (to prevent warping of the foamboard). This was covered with PVA and fine sand sprinkled on through a fine sieve, once dry it was then painted with Humbrol enamel and gives a good representation of the rough rendered walls apparent in photographs of the prototype. Each side wall and the end wall were constructed and painted separately making handling of them much easier, because although as per the prototype the station building is only capable of holding 2 coaches, the model is still over 3 feet long! Next step was fabrication of the roof trusses, 80 thou thick Evergreen strip of various widths being used for this. A drawing was used to provide a template for cutting the various component parts and based on dimensions taken from this a cutting/mitre gauge was made up from some off cuts of wood so that identical (well nearly) components could easily be cut from the Evergreen strip. Hopefully the photos below give some idea of this. The various components were then glued together to produce individual trusses The trusses were then assembled in groups of four using the ridge beam, purlins and wall plate components, three of these sub assemblies being required. Now you may be forgiven for thinking this is a slightly strange way to go about the construction but the main reason was because we decided that for ease of transportation and safety the main buildings on the layout would be made removable. So having got the three walls and the roof truss sub assemblies ready it was time to join it all together. To facilitate this, an assembly jig was constructed (from more timber off cuts) which would locate the walls in the correct positions as well as hold them vertically. See photo below showing the jig, ultimately this will form the base of the transportation box for the station building. The following sequence of photos then show the assembly of the building. The building was then removed from the jig (it was surprisingly strong and rigid in this state) and placed back on the layout where I was relieved to find it fitted perfectly! (Note the platform is permanently attached to the layout). The doors and window frames visible in the last picture are from the Highland Castings range available from Invertrain (saved a lot of faffing about with microstrip). More to follow.
  21. Not sure about being the brains of the operation but agree that an update on progress on the layout is well overdue. Since my last update (#18) the fiddle yard has now been constructed. This is basically a 9 road sliding traverser with fixed stub tracks at each end capable of holding a loco. This permits running around/changing of locos on trains without having to handle any of the stock. To accommodate 3 coach trains the traverser table is 2 metres long and including the stub tracks the complete fiddle yard is over 3 metres long (O Gauge certainly eats up space!) To make it manageable for transporting to exhibitions the fiddle yard boards are split into two sections and whilst the traverser table itself is one piece it can easily be detached from the runners so that it can be transported separately. Some pictures below taken during construction. Note the runners are heavy duty ball bearing runners purchased from B&Q (though other sources are available) and as can be seen in the second photo, despite the considerable weight of the traverser table when loaded with stock there is no sag when fully slid across. The addition of a second Lenz LA150 panel (and associated wiring) allows the fiddle yard operators to take control of the trains when within their limits. So having now got a fully operational layout we had a further test day at the Town Hall as previously followed by our first exhibition! The Hull Model Railway Club’s Summer Show on June the 4th. Many thanks to Ken Gibbons & co. for the invitation, it enabled us to have a serious look at how we were going to operate the layout. More to follow (soon hopefully!)
  22. Appreciate the optional brake gear for P4, makes me want them even more!
  23. That's fine, don't mind doing a bit of modelling! I might even see if the Bill Bedford sprung W irons will fit.
  24. I'll certainly be interested in some 4mm ones in early Redland livery. Will they be suitable for conversion to EM/P4?
  25. Thanks for the reply Brian Shawn at Easibuild has offered to provide me replacement sides which are less curved. Can't really say fairer than that.
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