Jaggzuk

First step on the ballasting. Ran a bead of neat PVA along the cess side of each piece of track and then sprinkled dry ballast, of varying colours, on to it. This creates a neat(ish) edge to the ballast shoulder. It will also help to keep the dry ballast in place when I sprinkle and brush it on to the track before applying traditional 50:50 PVA water mix with a dropper. Quite pleased with the neat edge, it will all flatten out a bit more once the PVA has full dried and shrunk back.

A local railway to me and it has been logoless ever since they re-painted it. Not sure if they intended it to carry the large logo. I have asked several times when on site since it was repainted and the answer is either "no" or "not sure". Looks naked really. Not sure on the under coat as the current paint is all gloss finish. It has been like this for over a year at least http://www.locoscene.co.uk/showLocoPic.php?mode=LP&id=110452 Perhaps it is a license thing to reproduce the double arrows, do you have to get permission?

A couple of deliveries today! A box of bits from a nice shop over in Widnes; a load of decoders, a couple of second hand steel load wagons and my first foray with Heljan. At the bargain price of £60 I could not resist a Class 128 in Royal Mail Letters livery. Well first impressions are great, awesome detail including vast amounts of undeframe such as drive shafts on to the bogies and fine buffer detail too. But the biggest surprise was the weight! Chieftain tank comes to mind. It has to be the heaviest loco (unit) I have in my collection. Nice lights including in the cab. Can't wait get the chip in. The other purchase was miniscule in comparison, two Black Cat Technology light bars for my eldest's Lima Virgin HST. I am in the process of converting it to DCC and the old grain of wheat bulb need replacing. These looked a good price and it appears to be a fairly simple conversion without the need to modify the body. However, the one comprises is that the red light and white lights both appear in the same lamp, which is due to the Lima light cluster only have one perspex optic. But the circuit board has four surface mounded LEDs 2 red and 2 white with the reds I think being in the right location, so a future mods will be to separate out the lights. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-HST-LED-Lighting-Upgrade-Kit-New-Version-Updated-Design-/251999154032 A lot of the ideas too came from this vid on the web https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0R0Vt48buwE

I also use FastStone Image Viewer which is a nice freeware image viewer and editor. Some really nice tools, is quite feature rich, good image resize function and overall easy to use. No ads and regularly updated. I use it for all web upload images. http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm

All very frustrating this auto rotation of Smartphone photos. But, I may have found a work-around and had a go on one of your auto rotated photos Andy and it appears to work. Method Open the Samrtphone photo in MS Paint; this is a very simple program and it does not read or understand EXIF data and will therefore show the photo in its true rotation, 0, 90, 180, 270. Rotate the image using the Rotate/Flip button to the correct view Save as either a new file or overright Upload to RMweb. Rotating the image this way will cause some more complex photo views to now show the image the wrong way, this is because they are still reading the original EXIF data. Simply deal with this by having a separate folder of rotated images just for RM uploads. Hope this helps

Glad you did post, as this has been realy useful and helpful. Just one question, what glue did you use to stick No. 5 to the chassis? Kind regards Paul

Forgive me if I am going on a bit too much about ballast, but I have been having fun doing some colour blending. Following a trip last week to a site I am working on, I came back with some samples of the ballast and various colours found there, see last photo http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106602-family-8x4-oo-layout-signalling-and-track-ballasting/?p=2444117. The samples breakdown into 6 main colours; new grey, new dark grey, new pink, light stained grey, medium stained grey and heavily stained grey. To achieve the six colours, first using just raw ballast, I mixed dry ballast from three different colour packs and for the other three I have used a wet acrylic paint wash stain. Grey – just washed standard grey to the remove dust. Dark grey – dry mixed standard grey with Gaugemaster Granite Ballast OO (GM 114) and a light brown acrylic washed grey 60-20-20%. Pink – dry mixed Guagemaster Brown Ballast OO (GM111) with standard grey and a light brown acrylic washed grey 50-30-20%. Light stained grey - standard grey mixed with acrylic paint Raw Umber, 30-70% paint to water ratio. Medium stained grey - standard grey mixed with acrylic paint Raw Umber & Burnt Umber, 20-30-50% paint to water ratio. Heavily stained grey - standard grey mixed with acrylic paint Burnt Umber, 75-25% paint to water ratio. There was one side effect of using acrylic paint for the colour wash after being dried in the oven, is that it all gets stuck together, but it is easily return to individual grains by just rubbing it all together in a plastic bowl using my fingers. A nice watching TV task. As you cannot easily mix real granite with Woodlands Scenic ballast, due to the different densities as WS ballast with gravitate to the top, I also did a dry mix of WS ballast to try and create the buff coloured ballast. The other little trial I have done was to using acrylic paint wash to weather ballasted track. In the main I was trying to create rust on sleeper chairs, oil deposits along the centre 4 foot and heavy oil staining for areas like the station. To achieve the rust on the chairs, I first wetted the track and then dapped a mix of Burnt Umber and water (50/50) on to each chair. The result is very pleasing I think. The oil staining was again achieved by first wetting the ballast and sleepers and then brushing on a water mix of Raw Umber and Black. Both these were on real granite ballast. Finally the heavy oil staining area was on Woodlands Scenic Brown with again the Raw Umber and Black water mix wash. Over all I am really happy with the look and feel that I have a good range of ballast colours to use to hopefully create a random and realist look to the ballasting. Time will tell. Final views are of the sand formation along the cess. I also gave a bit of an acrylic weathering wash to the PW hut, 2nd photo. I have yet to weather the concrete sleeper track.

That is interesting. I guess because the Woodland Scenic ballast is nut based it is less absorbent than real granite. I shall try using the WS ballast with Gordon S glue first method and see how well it works. There are some nice colours with the WS range, apart from no pink. Thanks for this tip, which I cracked on with whilst putting the boys to bed; various washes of colour and then into the oven gas mark 4 for 20mins ;-) Here are the results just in, quite impressed! Bottom band just washed grey granite ballast (unknown supplier) from the left 1st brown and a bit of black 2nd more black 3rd lots of black 4th all black I just used kids cheep paint for the trial, so not too sure how well it will work wetted with PVA glue. But I have to say doing it this way will give a far better result than air brushing weathering post gluing. What I like about this process is that the colour wash has not ended up given the granite a uniform colour, as the original ballast was multi shades of grey. So once mixed, it will be much more like the real thing in my view, especially away from the urban environment where there is much less dirt and oil deposits staining the ballast. Here I will use the air brush. A real mix of colours and interesting weathering of the sleepers, how to achieve that that?? I think air brush and then wipe off?

Well the Summer hols are good and over and there is that Autumnal feel in the air now, so back to some productive evenings on the layout I hope. Instead of taking a book on our camping holiday, I took a shoe box of workbench stuff, a portable lap board/workbench and couple of Metcalfe kits to do; a small warehouse/factory and a terrace house. Got on really well with the factory, up to to roof level but cannot progress any further as I want to install lighting. So need to get some surface mounted LED strips. Good kits and are very solid once finished. Photos coming once finished with lighting and interior. The last few evenings I have spent chipping up several locos, as I found my box of previously bought decoders. These were mostly old locos that the boys run, but needed some TLC and chipping. Most have Ringfield motors and so after a quick Youtube research, I stripped them all down and gave a thorough service. This was a great vid on the topic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-qdz06jzSo. Most now run much better and with the decoder even better. The Boys are very happy now as they have much more choice on what trains to run DCC. This weekend, after some persuasion, we got the air brush out. We decided to have a go and started the long task of track weathering. Yep time to bite the bullet and just get on with ballasting!! I used Railmatch Sleeprgrime thinned 2/3 paint to 1/3 thinners and airbrushed the track, rails and sleepers. Once dry I scraped the rail head clean with a blade, wiped with thinners and then buffed with a track cleaner. This took a while to get the rail smooth and clean, just wiping your finger along you can tell which bits still have paint residue. Next came the track formation at the sides/cess, this is builders sand sprinkled over neat PVA. Once dry this was then painted with black/brown thinned paint. This is to try and represent the old sinders/slag and general black material used to create the trackbed before the ballast is laid on top. The other thing completed was another ballast trial - how to glue. This time comparing the traditional method of sprinkling dry ballast over the track, wetting and dripping watered down PVA, which is well known to turn grey ballast green looking vs the method of neat PVA carefully dripped/brushed between the sleeper gap and then dry ballast sprinkled on top. See Gordon S detailed process description here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80480-ballasting-without-tearson-thin-sleeper-track/ I have to say, although it will be a long slow job, the glue first method, I think it produces a far better look and marginally less green looking. Traditional method left, neat PVA first method on the right. I think the fact that you are not dripping a liquid on top stop some of the fines in the ballast being washed underneath, as the one on the right just right looks less coarse. However, the whole issue with green looking ballast I think comes down in part to the fact that dry grey ballast out of the bag is very dusty, so once washed it turns a slightly more green looking shade. Out of the bag on the left, washed and dried on the right. Anyway, I shall be using a mix of buff, Gaugemaster Brown (looks pink) and a mixed grey, to achieve something like this. Getting quite excited now that the ballast is about to go down, not sure how long that feeling will last once I start ;-)

Fantastic new feature, the train simulation. Has great potential for layout planning. When will the Account Registration be up and running? "Creation of new accounts is temporarily suspended. Please, try again later."

Fantastic level crossing, the Bomacs look spot on. Works really well with the three tracks.

Chris, all the detail you have just added, the ballasting cable troughs, point motors and the LX look really great and makes it all look the part. The level crossing anti trespass grids are just top notch and make such a difference even during part build. Really inspiring me to get on with my ballasting.

First circuit board done. With the boys away on holiday, I have had a bit of time to solder up and fit my first home made circuit board. This is to control the Tortoise motor TM. Its all a bit overkill and possibly looks complicated but there is a reason for it all. Now I have moved on with how I am to control all my coloured light signals, I have had to extend my Peco lever frame. As I really like this frame the need to have a separate DPDT toggle switch just to control the TM really did not fit in. So I developed a way to use a Peco On-On switch, the Green one at position 6, to flip the TM. I have used an IC component called a H-bridge which is commonly used to control motors in RC models via simple on off switches. see http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/H-bridge-circuit.php The circuit board also has to have a 5v voltage regulator as the IC requires this as power feed. This is the bit with the two round capacitors next to it. I added an LED to show it's all powered up. The connection pins on the edge go to connectors with wire crimps This is my first Veroboard soldered circuit and I really enjoyed the planning and the build. Took a bit of time playing on a scrap bit to get used to the soldering technique, but as you can see on the back, its not too bad for a first effort IMO. Confidence has been boosted to attempt the signal boards, some 10 of them! But I must really get on with ballasting, just getting distracted !!!

A new addition to the family... of controllers. Just bought an NCE Cab06 Engineers Throttle to run with my NCE Power Cab. I decided on this basically so that both my boys/me can run different DCC locos at the same time, but control them independently; sharing one controller has started to become a bit of an issue ;-) Also, as the Fat Controller I can over rule the control if I use the Pro unit if I so choose. First impression is that it is perfect for our needs. The only initial downside is that it has no speed indication, but that is neither here nor there for what it is to be used for. What I did not expect is how easily you can pass loco control between the units; or to rob control once they find out that is possible !! Basically, if you select the same loco address on both throttles, then the loco will react to the commands sent from either unit. Ok this could get a bit out of control, but with a bit of coaching, the boys should able to say marshal a goods train on one unit and then allow the other unit to take the train out on to the main line. I also bought an additional Cab Bus Fascia Panel (Model UTP), this quite simply allows multiple throttles to plunged in to the the main command unit. Use a new supplier Wickness Models for this and was very happy with the stock availability, the price (best on the net by far) and speed of delivery. The other parts of the control system in the photo is a homemade black box that a) powers up the NCE system and b) switches between DCC and DC control. It also shows the direction red/green) for the DC controller.

Hollow Sleepers, here is one from Unipart http://www.unipartrail.com/assets/j2540-hollow-sleepers-brochure-st1.pdf Ok I know this is very modern situation, but it show how Hollow Sleepers can be used; seen at Sandy in Bedfordshire. [Edit: photos added]

Love the point motors and cable troughing Chris. They certainly create the right feel trackside. Depending upon how picky you want to be, watch the distance from the cabinets to the nearest running rail. Currently with your doors parallel to the track (I assume this from the last photo) you do not want track workers getting squished from passing trains when working inside them. So for cabinets that have to be close to the track they will be set perpendicular to it. See my last photo http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106602-family-8x4-oo-layout-signalling-and-track-ballasting/?p=2367370 Looking forward to the next update. Paul

Meant to add these to my last post. A couple of examples showing cable troughs

Cheers Chris. A bit of a trait of mine, going into too much detail (sometimes). But as each new phase of the layout build comes along I am exploring all options to hopefully come up with the best (for me) of layout build ideas and techniques. I sort of agree that perhaps the Signalling is a bit over kill, but I have really enjoyed the research and discovery phase of it. Electronics is an area of skill that has always scared me a bit, but now I am more excited about the possibilities of what it can offer. I note on your layout that you have tried out the Ten Comandements cable troughs, they look good, I will certainly have to get some of them. I bought some Wills ones but they looked over sized. I want to get some down on the layout before I start the ballasting, as I have noted that cable troughs tend to act as a bit of a ballast retainer in real life; creating the divide between the ballast shoulder and the more grassy cess. Plus they are mostly within the ballast not sat on top so need to be laid first.

Cheers Phil for the pointers, very useful. 1) I would have added some trap points especially as we have lots of gradients, but it never crossed my mind when planning the play layout. 2) I guess with the two 2 aspect signals in the station I was sort of thinking these might have been what was installed after semaphore on a local branch line? So perhaps I will change these to 3 aspect. My other motivation on having some 2 aspect signals, is to make efficient use of the three types of head that you get in each Train Tech signal pack; a 2, 3 and 4 aspect head. That is if I go down the route of some kit built signals. 3) Ok that's good as I can now loose one of the feather arms. 4) I forgot to add the signal for the lower yard on the plan. My idea for this will be a semaphore, as the yard is so small, BR never got round to replacing it with a coloured light signal. My other slight issue, which cannot be resolved I think, is that the Starter signals for the green line at the island platform have ended up a long way for the platform ends. This is because they control movements over the two exiting points at each end. The issue being that if a passenger train stops at the station it either has to have a proceed aspect before stopping so it can pass the signal, or it has to stop short and therefore loose platform space. I guess this is just the nature of a compact layout. Any prototypical workings where a stopping train actually passes a signal before stopping at a platform?.

As promised here is my signal layout plan. Very much open to comment as I am no expert. As I said in the previous post, the big issue is every track is bi-di but I do not want to signal every line for both direction running. So I am looking for the best fit and taking in to account it is jut an 8x4 fun layout. What I want to achieve however is some level realism with the signal control circuits I am planning to make such that you get 2 or 3 signal in a sequence along any given line. I want proper control at junctions and some level of signal control at the station. OK there will be some cases where the front of the train will pass one signal while the rear is still to pass the preceding signal, I can live with that that. I also want the various signals to be scattered around the layout so that when you look closely at individual parts of the layout you get nice little cameo scenes. And above all it must be fun to operate; trains cannot start a journey with out a signal being cleared (throwing a switch). trains are held at junctions while other pass on the other route and you get to see the red, yellow green sequence operating as controlling signals are changed. My current question points are: Is the station over/under signalled? Have I used appropriate junction feathers and theatre indicators at the right locations? Would you actually use junction feathers for the entry in to the two goods yards? Have I added shunting signals to the right places for shunting in and out of the main goods yard and through the station? Any pointers on this one?

More Project Signal goodies. This time it is the electronic control components. I got these from Hobby Electronics http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/ based in York. Very impressed with the speed of delivery and the extremely thorough packaging. Every bit has been individually heat sealed in bags and labelled and all this was then heat sealed in to one big bag with lots of compartments. Anyway, I have got all sorts of bits and pieces, so I can now get under way with making up the signal circuit boards. However, the one thing I have not fully bottomed out is the number and type of signals to place around the layout. The main stumbling point is that all my tracks can be bi-directional. Now I am not about to signal fully for both direction running, but I do want to create the best illusion of mainline and branch line routes a train might take. So far, I am up to 16 signals both 2 aspect and 3 aspect with some having working junction feathers and also some with dummy theatre indicators. I am still finalising the graphic of my initial idea for comment which I will post in the next day or so, so watch this space.

The first box of bits for Project Signal arrive today. Two Berko 3 aspect signals to use as trials to see what they are like, two junction feather kits, loads of Peco On-Off switches and some more switch frames. So far I like the look of the Berko signals, they look the part and with a bit of painting with mat grey they will look even better. The big test will be what the LEDs are like especially the green, as I have read that a lot of LEDs used for signals are a bit too yellow/green in colour. I also wanted to see what they were like compared to the Train-Tech offerings and to see if I think it will be better to go down the route of kit building, especially from a financial point of view,

What a difference Cant makes!! I have decided, while I wait for the signal control components and signals to be delivered, to make a start on the track preparations ready for ballasting. I decided to have a go first at adding some cant to the outer curves (3rd and 4th radius) on the layout and wow what a difference it makes. I inserted some 1.5mm dia pins under the sleepers on the outside edge and then track pinned the inner end of the sleeper down ensure the track was full canted and not just raised up. Once happy with the cant and the smoothness of the transition from the flat straight track I squigged PVA glue under the sleepers at about 1.5 inch intervals and left to set. The track is now held nice a firm and the alignment fixed so I can pull out all the track pins ready for track weathering.

Just when you think you have finished something, you go and sleep. Woke up this yesterday with the idea of train detection and how I could incorporate this in to my Signal Control circuit Basically during my playing around with electronics and circuits, I had a go with a 555 Timer; a very useful component. One thing this is very good at in its Monostable mode with appropriate resistors and capacitors, is creating a timer, where the timer delay can be precisely calculated. http://www.circuitbasics.com/555-timer-basics-monostable-mode/ So the idea is to try and see how I could add a small track sensor (Infrared?) beyond the signal and to use the 555 timer to trigger the signal back to a Red aspect for a set time. I would calculate the timed delay to be the length of time it takes the slowest train to clear a given section. The reason I think it will work is that it can utilise the input control on-off transistors NOT switch. The sensor timer would imitate the control panel switch being thrown. Ok this is not true block signal control, but it will create the illusion of Multi Aspect Signalling working as trains pass by. Plus it will be a bit of fun for the boys to watch the signals changing automatically. This is what happens when you take a 9 volt battery, a circuit Breadboard and a shoe box full of electrical components on holiday rather than a book. Or maybe I am just putting off getting on with ballasting ;-) Anyway here is the finished circuit plotted on to a stripboard using Fritzing; quite a fun puzzle trying to get it all mapped out with the least number of jumpers and on to the smallest board. So it is all ready to be translated into a real soldered up circuit!! I shall now get some signals to put it all together, probably a mix of Berko and TrainTech 3 aspect.

Great idea that Stephen, will have to try that out.