ikcdab

It's a read online. No download. Still, it's a good read and thanks to BRM for the offer.

So you might have seen in another thread that I am following others examples and refurbishing and detailing some triang mk 1 coaches. On the work bench are two BSKs. These had a secure luggage area that was fenced off by means of a wire cage. The triang coaches represent this by a solid moulding with wiring scribes on it. See picture. To me this is a problem as it means you can't see through the luggage van windows to the other side. I have found some plastic mesh that you can see in the picture that is a fairly good match compared to the triang moulding. Question is, how best to replace it. I could try cutting out the moulded mesh and refitting the new. But trying to cut and file accurately to all tgge varous moulded uprights sounds very laborious. I could just rip it all out and try and build a new framework, but what from.... It is complicated by the fact that the wire cage should go right round the end where triang have a plain moulding. Currently I am thinking to cut out the straight piece completely between the guards compartment and the end curves, leaving the end curves in place. Then cutting and fixing a new piece of plasticard for the top of the frame. I think this is easier than trying to cut to the moulding. Then I can fix the netting to the new rail and the floor. It might be possible to replicate the door uprights from microstrip glued to the netting, not sure yet if I'll do that. I think that will give the effect I want of being able to see through the security cage. Any advice, anyone done this before?

I've just ordered the cn version. Is that going to be ok for painting 4mm scale stock? YouTube videos suggest it will be.....

Ok I'm happy with that opinion. I'm now looking at the iwata neo

Ok so I struggling with this. I replaced the diaphragm and the nozzle washer. Although my compressor is running as it did before, the airstream out of the brush is not as strong as it was before. Not sure if that's good or bad. I tried some tamiya acrylic and it was reasonably ok, although the arc of the spray was very fine. More like a pencil than a brush. After cleaning, I tried humbrol enamel thinned with white spirit. Still a very narrow "beam" and it keeps clogging. Tried different dilution, all the same. Now it will barely spray neat white spirit. My perseverance is now getting very worn. Any advice?

My minehead branch book which I showed above has scale drawings of all the minehead line buildings. If there are any in particular you want, drop me a pm. I haven't looked at the "stations and buildings" book for a long time. I don't think it has any drawings. You need my book for those. Ian coleby

Quite a few in here too

Ok got it. Looks like I could file them out.

I've rather got the bug for this at the moment. I managed to pick up three more cks today at £4 each. Question, they all have this surround around the second main window from the left on the compartment side. See photo What is this meant to be?

Not really. A brand new 25-year lease was signed in May 2018.

Not really, I think you are characaturing the point a little. I am not referring to anyone on this thread, but elsewhere I have seen people "rivet counting", yet then run their stock on what are little more than train sets. It just seems to me to be a mismatch. Nuf sed!

Thanks. Will now fit the remainder using the wire technique.

Has anyone fitted those tiny eyebolts to the roof of the latest class 43 that come in the detail pack? They are minute and several of mine have pinged off into eternity. I found some, but despite Bachmann providing spares, I am still 1 short. Requires the patience of a saint to cut these from the sprue and to fit them. Now to try and find my lost one. So tiny!!!

Um no, the original quote was about mining and the ethical issue of asking people to go underground to cut coal. My point is that many jobs are dangerous or unpleasant. Incidentally, these days the heritage rail industry is no longer just playing with steam trains, but a vital part of the local economy. My own local line, the West Somerset, brings in huge sums to the local economy and is the most important contributor, excepting Butlins at minehead. North wales exonomy would die without its narrow gauge lines. So its more than a recreation.

I think this is a sound assessment. Isnt the biggest error that the wheels are only 16.5mm apart or that most people will run these on setrack or code 100 with inaccurate sleeper spacing? People don't seem bothered by this but moan when there is a minute error. I see that one poster didn't even realise there was a problem he read it on here. You moan about the lights but then ignore the non-prototypical tension lock coupling just below... I think we need to get a sense of proportion. Hattons have done a great job in developing this loco and raising standards. They should be congratulated not bashed. They are a business and if we want ready to run locos at a reasonable price then we have to be reasonable.

So now household coal has been banned, the supply chain collapses and heritage railways can no longer get it? What now?

This is a ridiculous point of view. Does this also apply to dustbin men, traffic wardens, prison warders or even nurses who get beaten up in hospitals?

Hi Darius, which modelmaster sheets did you use? And how difficult was it to take off the paint demarcation lines? I'm still wondering whether to do that or not.

I have used the 5mm laminate flooring underlay often. It's the stuff that comes in sheets approx 1.2m x 500mm of something similar, a light green colour. Works a treat and easy to glue down and fix track too. Highly recommended.

An update. My refurb of the two bsks is going well. Sides repaired and I have lashed out on new Bachmann commonwealth bogies. Have installed new buffers. Got the airbrush working again. I have a question on handrails. Am I right that these coaches, mk1 corridors, had interior handrails along the corridor? If so, I'll represernr this when I reglaze. Probably stick some wire behind the glazing. As for transfers, lettering and lining, HMRS pressfix or modelmaster waterside?

I just bought spares for this aerograph from here https://www.everythingairbrush.com/ Very quick service too.

And i should also say that Dave Megapoints is extremely helpful and will go out of his way to make sure things work for you.

i just did what we do with the over racks. I dismantled the coach and put the sides and roofs into a ziplock bag. Pour in some of the over pride cleaner, seal up the bag and leave it. there wasnt much oven pride left in our bottle (someone had used it on the oven!) so i wasnt very hopeful. But within a couple of hours all of the paint had dissolved from the sides and roof. I did "massage" the components through the plastic, ie i rubbed the oven pride into the sides through the plastic. so i dont think that the oven pride even has to come into contact with the paint, maybe the fumes are sufficient when sealed up in the bag. It is essential not to get it on your hands, the over pride kit comes with disposable gloves. As i said, i worked like an absolute dream on the enamel paint i applied more than 40 years ago.

I tried oven pride. It worked like a dream. Stripped off all my youthfuk leatning experiences. So my 50 year old coaches may ride again.

Just been investigating my parents attic and found my two triang bsks that I have now liberated. These were from around 1970 and were bought as "completely knocked down" (ckd) kits. I must have repainted them in my youth but now will improve these as per this thread. What's the best way to strip enamel paint from plastic coach sides?