hobbyhorse

I've got a GA for the 6' 9" version, with two other GA's for Cab and Smokebox. These are all unmarked for class other than drawing numbers.

Simon

What version of the Locos are you looking for, i.e. Wheel diameter.

Simon

After fitting the radio gear which was setup by one of our group the videos show the first runs, I'm please and other than a few tweaks needed time to get on with the cladding for the motor and control room.

https://youtu.be/HeqA6iMhWT0

Simon

Having 2% and 5% grades any graphite is out of the question, so making sure pickups function correctly is important.

I've not had any issues with poor running locos, and I do run a large fleet of small narrow gauge 0-4-0 types. But one of my groups exhibition layout which is flat does use it, does it run any better, not sure. Ultimately over a period of time the graphite does build up on the wheel, this is very noticeable on some of the fleet, which has been running for 20 years and requires removal as it's had an effect on the running quality. This isn't a negative view but based on a long term observation.

Simon

My 7mm version for quartering.

Simon

I’ve been putting off doing the reversers as it has required quite a bit of effort with the parts required for them. First on the list was to do a drawing to produce the patterns for the links, arms, bases and handles, then cut these on the pantograph. With these most of the bits have been silver soldered, as this provides invisible joints once cleaned up and stronger. Not fitted them yet as I’m doing everything that’s required inside the frames to be completed, then stripe down the frames and fit them everything in one go, anyway thats another bit ticked off the list. 

Simon

I've been scratching my head for a while about making the hand rail stanchions, luckily Darent doesn't have many only for the safety valves.

So after sourcing some brass balls of the correct diameter, the fun started. First a jig was made to hold the ball and the rod, the balls needed drilling twice, once to get the hole for the rod and then again when the rod was soldered on. Before drilling the balls needed softening as those supplied were in hard condition, the blow torch sorted that out.

A small washer was turned and the end of the bars threaded, then attached to the models. I did have some wastage drilling the balls but its easy with the jig to redo so more.

Next will be the cylinder front covers and derailing bars.

Simon

On 19/11/2020 at 14:18, Barclay said:

In MRJ 109 was an article called 'The Electronic Flywheel' -  He worked in 7mm, used 2 x 470 microfarad capacitors, (36 volt, non-polarised) and with RG7 motors achieved a run-on of 1/3 of a loco length. This would be plenty to prevent stalling on a grain of dust etc. and not enough to require any kind of control circuitry to prevent running away. I assume the new capacitors are much less bulky. 

We developed that system for it's simplicity, my friend who was an electrical engineer did the article and we fitted the rest of the locos on our exhibition layout Tewksbury with them. We never had any running problems after that.

Simon

Looking around at the trade offerings for suitable small yard office type buildings I decided that around the £50 mark each was rather expensive, so other than some doors, windows and chimneys which I already had I spent this week putting these together. These will be used as the reception office for the Yard masters that also contain the ground frames. The walls are made from Foamex scribed with suitable brick work and coloured with a mixture of rattle cans, acrylics and coloured pencils.

Simon

The very toxic election that's going on at the moment sums up today's mentality, both sides have a lot to answer. I did back the for change group but have come to the conclusion that it's probably better not to bother with it. The problems will never go away as big organisations forget what the core issues are all about, it's supposed to be a pleasant hobby that everyone can injoy without criticism. 

Simon

I've been cracking on with the carriage for the Gantry Crane, at times it seams like building the Forth Bridge but it is enjoyable.

It is constructed of 4 panels with the central 2 made up of T beams top and bottom, and the outer 2 plan angle. The cost of brass T section was eye watering so I made them my self, with all the other off the shelf from a well known supplier. Each panel was assembled in a jig, this ensures everything is square. The wheels are insulated on both ends again, this well be used to supply power to the control cabin, plus the rails on the top is also insulated for the cabin to run on. The most time consuming bit was the outer 2 panels and the end details as this required the stiffening plate work. It still requires quite a lot of detailing such as walkways, ladders, piping etc, but these will be added once it's working.

Simon

Some heavy engineering now, which is for the Gantry Crane.

We've got one on The Yard layout which I'm sure many of you have seen. This one is a bit smaller and the base is of different construction, being precast concrete. The upper carriage will be similar to The Yard, and the cabin will gauged the same to act as a spare should it be needed.

I had some brass T section and square in stock that looks very similar in size to the prototype, and after a couple of hours on the mill the basic structure was complete, I'm using pins at the moment to hold it together but it will be glued.

Some copper clad strip is used to mount the rail, as this will be insulated on both sides as it's used to get power to the cabin.

Next to make will be the cabin.

Simon

With the Ore Bin working, the last couple of days I've been working up the mechanical bits for unloading the ore tippers. The design needs to hold the chassis to stop it tipping and then move the body enough to discharge the ore, and also allow clearance for the loco and wagons to move through the unloading bay and it needs to fit into a fairly small space. So the two rams would need quite a bit of travel, the body ram is round and I've speeded up the movement which does clear most of the ore, ( I'm using woodlands scenic ballast at the moment.) the chassis ram is square as this gives better contact area, I did try round but it tended to wobbly a bit. The unloading area is designed to hold four wagons so these need to be reliable, which so far is looking good. The biggest problem is the design of the tipping linkage on the wagons which tends to be a bit tight, but by stripping the wagons down and freeing up the linkage it dramatically improves the performance. I've tried some crushed stone ballast in the ore bin and tippers and it runs more freely so it's probably the way forward. Time now to build the other three sets.

Simon

After doing some stuff on the ON30 layout it's back to Darent, with the springs.

Normally I not the greatest fan of making springs, as it was part of the day job a while ago, but these I have enjoyed.

Started by making the assembly jig and new anvil for the rivet punch to enable the brass angle to be riveted.

All 8 springs are the same, the only difference is in the angle brackets.

That's another job ticked off for the bits inside the frames, next the derail protection bars.

Simon

With the Ore bin working well I've put that aside, and made a start on the chalk walling and some of the various building around the Northfleet Quarry.

The walls are from Woodland scenic moulds, and I break them into smaller pieces to give a better random effect.

So far buildings wise I've started on the yard office, fuel tank, water tower, bridge and loco shed, still lots of detailing required on them but I can see how these fit into the scene before finalising the positions.

Simon

Completed fitting all the servos, operating wires and chains, after some testing I found that the arm that opens the doors wasn't man enough for the job, so made some new ones in brass, this is much better and works well. I'm using some Woodland Scenic ballast at the moment, it flows quite well.

Simon

These are a few bits that I've dig out. The cost of the fitting are quite expensive, have a look at the cost of the LMS cab fittings, for 1973 that was a lot of money.

Simon

Welcome to posting.

The frog does have a separately feed via the point motor.

The reason why the switch blade have a power feed is it's only relies on two bent down tabs to transfer the power.

The outside rails also have power feed, it's very much belt and braces but over the years this system has worked faultlessly.

Simon

Stan was very much an inspiration to me, his quality of workmanship was outstanding. One thing it certainly did for me was to make me want to try and produce models that stand out in details and quality of finish. I've been very privileged over the years to see a great many of his models and work bench that's been preserved at close quarters, and talk to a few who new him. The book does give an insight into his way of working with what information was available and some good photos of the models, unfortunately his was quite secretive with a lot of his methods especially the painting, which was done with cellulose paints. My loco building business brought a few surprises over the years, with repairs to a couple of his locos and the purchase of Hobbyhorse Developments lost wax casting business , which used in its early days a lot of his  fitting details as patterns. One must not forget that Norris was also building to similar standards at the time, and between them gave us a wonderful collection of outstanding locos, and not forgetting Tony Reynalds who is continuing the legacy.

I will dig out some of the fittings and other bits a post them.

Simon

This is probably the easiest solution, easy to adjust.

I'm feeding  in 12 vdc, this is to power some small motors, bought 5 for £4.5. Although it states 3v it goes down to almost

.5 volt.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Mini-3A-DC-DC-Step-Down-Buck-Converter-3V-5V-16V-UK-Stock-From-0-65p/254490668546?hash=item3b40d36e02:m:mXspK3qZ0Zmk8BnjWvIQ7Rg

Simon

The next stage in the construction is to complete all the bits inside the frames, so starting with the valve gear and valve chests.

Completing these entailed quite a bit of work over several months, but very enjoyable when done in stages especially when machining the very small dummy bolts and nuts.

That's another job ticked off, texted the springs.

Simon

Just posted a Daren't updated in the Scratch build thread. 

Starting on some Foamex walling.

Simon

18 hours ago, Nile said:

Have you seen this?

 

That reminds me I must do an update on the Darent builds.

Simon

I've put a few of the Millard kits together and your correct about the sparse detail, but go together well and adding the details from other sources or making them isn't a problem I've found.

Simon

18 hours ago, Titanius Anglesmith said:

Entirely off-topic, but it looks like you've got a few interesting gizmos in the background, e.g. pantograph, surface grinder, shaper...... 

Yes the layouts above the machine tools.

Simon