Johnfromoz

Norman, Thanks very much for the advice. Because I hate soldering to decoders I am still curious about using the screw terminal version. I take it from your comments that the XL with the screw terminals is a total replacement for the Heljan PCB and that this has no rsistors for the lights? Curious to hear your views on the XL. Cheers John

As with Birdseye circus, I too am struggling with dcc installation in the senior scale. Being new to O Gauge and despite having fitted a couple of hundred decoders in 00 over many years, I am somewhat confused about chipping my new Heljan 37. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a basic tutorial for beginners with a couple of pictures regarding dcc installation. I have heard all sorts of horror stories about blowing the lights in O gauge when installing decoders. Is it simpler for a beginner to use the Lok XL that seems to have screw terminals? If so, which wires go where? What would be the best speaker for the HJ 37? Grateful for any advice you experienced O gauge guys can offer. John

Good luck to anyone trying to move the 37's windows! Examine the whole bodyside first - the windows share a correct relationship with many other grills and features. The eye is drawn to the fact that they are a tad low through comparison with the obvious datum point; the cab door windows. But perhaps it is the cab door windows that are in error? I don't know. As is often the case with innaccuracies in our scaled down versions, the solution is not as straghtforward as appears at first glance.

A closer examination of the Heljan side profile suggests to me that most of the side detail has the correct relationship with each other - the windows are slightly lower possibly due to too flat a curvature on the cantrail grills. The plain liveries nullify the error somewhat, or at least makes it less obvious. With regard to the body screw issues, anyone finding an interim solution to releasing them other than drilling them out?

Further to the tight screws saga, I wonder if carefully heating the screws with a soldering iron might assist before screwdriver. I realise this might make the screw expand, but might soften the bond with the plastic? John

Good to know Steve. Have ordered myself a green FYE version. I assume Heljan don't include a number sheet of transfers for these? John

Has anyone actually given any of these a test run yet? If so, can anyone venture any comments on low speed control/smoothness etc? TIA John

Hi Nick, Brilliant layout. Do you have any ideas about rectifying the DRS livery on the other side of the 68? I'm thinking a respray would be too complex. Looks like we will have to live with it. John

Yes I am extremely curious about what's going on with their sudden dissapearance......

Hi, Can't see how this error can be sorted out quickly. Whats done is done with regard to the incorrect livery of the DRS examples. Beggars belief, given the general effort made to reproduce this complex livery. Given production costs, it would seem unlikely that Dapol would issue corrected body shells, but I suppose anyhthing is possible (pigs flying by!!!). I am certainly not a pedantic modeller, and have overlooked many production 'sins' that others have baulked at in the past but this is an error too far for the price.

Now that the 68 has broken cover, a couple of points: The overall quality of the body moulding, the seperate details and (hopefully) decent running makes me just about able to forgive Dapol's usual little finishing niggles (wonky nameplates, bit of glue showing etc.) However, now that we can see a VERY significant livery error on one side of the DRS versions which in effect renders one entire side of the loco's paint scheme as bogus, I am really suprised that this issue does not have purchasers more concerned. We are not talking here about a questionable paint shade or a few edges that can be touched up. Nothing can retrieve this major error, save a total repaint of this complex livery on one side. Not feasible for most. For those not aware of the extent of this error, observe and compare each side of the loco. I am inclined to reject my purchase over THIS issue, more than a few minor ones raised earlier.

Like many here, the 08 has fuelled my first dalliance into O Gauge, having picked up the pre and post TOPS blue versions. Mightily impressed with both, one now has sound, the other plain DCC. Looking back at the earlier angst in the thread about 21 pin control of all functions and the unsuitability of MTC chips for these, just thought I would let interested parties know that the humble 4 funtion cheapie from hattons operates all lighting (switchable) on my d3045 EXCEPT the cab facing shunt lights. Given the decoder cost I think I can live with this. Superb motor control too, though I think this is more to do withe Dapol motor than the chip. (Has anyone yet had a rough running 08?) John

Some interesting innovations there Lodekka. Good luck with it! Ta for your help with the Zimo twin speakers - soldered mine up today and sound is very good with the MX644, particularly when you site the speakers hard agains the radiator etch. John

I guess what I'm asking is whether I have to wire the Zimo twin speakers in series or a simple soldering to the cross bar wires joining each speaker as Digitrains kindly ommited to attach speaker wires as requested Grateful if anyone using the Zimo LS40x20 twin speakers in their 08 can advise on where the wires are soldered at the speaker end. Thanks John

Hi Paul, I was asking about the wire connections at the twin speaker end. Have replied on Beale Street. Cheers John

Quick question for Paul or fellow sound installers. Have got the Zimo LS40 twin speaker option and need to solder some wires to it. Can I solder to any point on the connecting wire bars (+ & -) which join both speakers? Not used twin speakers before. Cheers John

Apologies Andy P, The above post requesting info from Paul should have been posted in the Dapol 08 thread. Got engrossed in looking at your installation. Cheers John

Paul, Digitrains have just sent me their Activedrive on MX644 and the LS40 twin speakers as you recommended. Despite me asking them to wire the speakers (I hate soldering to speakers due to eye/dexterity issues) they have not done so. Am I right in thinking I can solder some speaker wires to any point on the connecting wire bars ( + & - ) which joins both speakers? TIA for your help John

I have specifically asked Digitrains for their active drive configured for the Dapol 08. Here's hoping that they have done so.....If not I guess I can reconfigure using Paul's useful advice on p32. John

Hi, Are you using a Zimo chip (5 function or more) to get those shunting lights? John

Concurs with my understanding. I know a batch of these early blue repaints on the southern had brown (rather than black) underframes. Can't say wether 3045 was so treated. John

Noting Paulie B's earlier suggestion that a four function 21 pin won't cut the mustard with all the factory fitted lighting functions, anyone able to confirm this? Or indeed, how the 08 runs on a one amp(ish) chip? Cheers John

That second image of 'Manvers' sitting in Tinsley Yard next to a 21t hopper suggests it is running without its con rods (not unknown) or is it withdrawn? Interesting image anyway. Thanks John