Ark Royal

Hi Quarryscape. 1. Completed Model in entirity in Fusion 360, 2. Selected Part to be Etched and created sketch on the plane the item is to be etched in (face). If parts are folded (Sheet metal work function of 360) then they were unfolded before sketch created. 3. Project the parts including the bend parts into the sketch. Create a rule oblong , say something like 20mm with graduations to scale the export from. 4. Export Sketch as dxf file. 5. Import dxf file into chosen artwork package. 6. Scale within artwork package with known dimension created in step 3. Fusion dxf creates numerous shapes that can then be put into appropriate layers in artwork drawing package before combining these shapes into the solid artwork for etching which can then be given a fill colour. Unfortunately fusion 360 sheet metal work (to date) does not give a function for bend allowance of 1/2 etched items, its been requested for numerous time to the development team. It does allow material thickness and calculates bend allowance from this. As you have assembled the flat shape within you artwork page into shapes it is now a case of calculating the bend allowance and and adusting the "bend" part of the artwork to the correct determined width. I use this to calculate the bend allowance Hollywood Foundary Etching Principles It is a bit of a workaround but not that time consuming. Thankyou AndyID for your response. I used to use Turbocad to create etched artwork but that was 10 years or more ago and it has clearly not been updated since then as revolving parts around one axis was a function then. Fusion 360 is updated nearly every month with some extra functionality, some of which you'll never use, others you will. My reason for asking this question is if you designed a lever to revolve around an axis from say -45 to +45 degreess. and during that rotation at say +25 and - 15 degrees it contacted a part that was capable of sliding along the same plane how easy would it be to calculate the distance and position that the item slid along and incorporate that into the design within Turbocad ? In Fusion 360 you create the joints, mark the start of the slide part in 1 sketch by projecting its shape into the sketch, stop the sketch. Move the rotational part and the slide action happoens automatically at the given angles . Capture the position of the part at the end of the movement. Start a second sketch and mark the position of the slide part at the end of its travel by projecting the item into the sketch. Project the item in the first sketch into the 2nd sketch and your done. You have the distance and travel direction calculated for you in 3 simple steps. Compound the problem by having the slide function also rotate about another axis and i struggle to see how turbocad could calculate that distance and angle yet using the same principle above it can be achieved in Fusion and the cutout for the motion also incorportated into the artwork. The learning curve to Fusion 360 is quite steep but once the basics (condtraints) in Fusion 360 are mastered the rest is fairly straight forward its just a different environment and set of rules. I personally like the ability to define parameters and then use those parameters to adjust the design. This is particularly helpful in 3D prinitng for material thickness but also in designs for scaling. With just one parameter change i can alter my designs to any chosen model scale of the model and it will update everything with that one parameter change. Learning these systems takes time and effort and it is wholly dependant on what you are doing with the 3d package. I am sure that Turbocad is just fine for most applications and it is down to personal preference at the end of the day Mark

You are correct Fusion 360 cannot fill areas with colour for 2D environment. I honestly beg to differ on this opinion and as a reponse to this comment i offer you this as proof Which went on to be assembled to this So Fusion 30 can be used to produce artwork for etching companies, Its been a long time since i use 2D/3D Turbocad, switching in preference to Fusion. I would be interested to know if Turbocad offers the facility to animate joints to calculate the location of other components wihin the file ? The use of animate joints was used within Fusion 360 to calculate the position of the microswitches (pictured) and the lever lock mechanism (bottom frame cutout) to ensure that the components would not only fit but be in the correct position. There is always a way to use one piece of software to communicate with another, you ust need to take the time to figure out. I happy to lend a hand should you need it. May i ask , what scale to do model in ? Mark

Wickham Trolley Searching through my archive of 3D Models i was going to have professionally printed i came across a folder with various versions of the Wickham Trolley. I seem to recollect that i had attempted and failed miserably to build a brass version of this which then led to this file being created. I decided to have a go at printing one myself. The original file was an complete model as one unit without any form of chassis other than the trolley floor. This clearly was never going to work on 2 levels . firstly the printing aspect and secondly the interior painting of the model. With that in mind i set about altering the model file to be printed in 2 parts with locating pegs to glue the 2 parts together once finished. 1. The interior including the floorpan and enrance step boards. The handbrake lever was printed seperately (conflict due to proximity to other interior items) Seat Back Support Material added in file. 2. The Exterior This in itself was a bit of a challenge as positoning supports on the interior for unsupported overhangs was virtually impossile when it came to the drivers console so i opted to print the console as part of the exterior where supporting was easier. The Results I used Chitubox auto supports for generating the support material other than those added during 3d generation. Post Support Removal They appeared to have come out okay but on closer examination there are 2 issues. ISSUE 1. - SUPPORTS This is mainly noticable on the Bodyshell. I know the issue here and that is Chitubox and Auto generation of supports and that is entirely my fault. For anyone that has used Chitubox and inputted there own support material it is a complex time consuming operation and it seems easier to hit the auto generate button. Well here is the reason NOT to do that ! This damage was caused when removing the internal support material. On this corner post only the Auto Generate function in Chitubox had put a support so close to the window member that it fused together with the model over the entire length of the model ( ground to roof) . It done a similar thing to one of the centre side panels but i managed to get that off without damaging the model. What frustrates me most about this kind of fault is that there is clearly no rhyme or reason the positioning of supports with the Auto Generate function of Chitubox. If there was then you'd expect the other corners to be the same or the opposite corner, likewise on the centre post support. In previous post i have been directed to another slicing software that has better environment for adding support material. TBH i didnt spend too much time with this environment but maybe now is the time to explore this. It's a shame as to all intents and purpose the rest of the model is an acceptable 1st print but that's a hard esson learnt. Apart from that issue i was pleased in the detail on the body shell, the fuel filler cap, drivers console gear (direction) lever , drivers console and radiator came out really well, as did the winows. ISSUE 2 - WARPING This is only noticeable on the Interior module As a functional model this would never work. I would really be interested in comments relating to the possible causes of this issue as i'm at a loss for an explanation. I am thinking its down to material thickness as the model is "balanced" in material thickness both laterally and longitudinally, So if it is material thickness any recommendations ? I guess the answer to the above is dependant on whether one requires a functional model or a redundant diorama model. You may if aware of the protype noted that i hadn;t model the radiator grille. My preference to this was to have it etched along with the "operational chassis". In reflecion i now wonder whether my recollection of the brass model was that it was far to complicated and that the best way forward would be an Etched Chassis and Body Panels with 3D printed interior to offset the level of build difficulty ? Mark

What's The Point (Part 3) Well continuing on from the cosmetic turnout clutter littered around these functional items i have decided to go with the drive units themselves before dealing with the Facing point Locks etc. I'm sure there are plenty more variations which may come to light once i have posted these items, but as scaled drawings are scarse these are what i have produced thus far in 4mm Scale. GRS Electric Point Motor Type 5A Measures: Length 21mm Width 11mm This model has since been updated to include the output/input rod housing cut outs. Print Time: 32 min Printed 1st Time Cost: £0.19 for 16 models Electric Cost: £0.04 SGE Type HB Point Motor Measures: Length 24mm Width 11.75mm Print Time: 31 min Printed 1st Time Cost: £0.23 for 16 models Electric Cost: £0.04 ML Electrics Type MC Point Motor Measures: Length 15.8mm Width 11.5mm Sloped Box Covers equals visual but minimal layer lines. Print Time: 28 min Printed 1st Time Cost: £0.28 for 20 models Electric Cost: £0.04 Westinghouse Mk3A Point Motor Measures: Length 18.5mm Width 10mm Print Time: 25 min Printed 1st Time Cost: £0.19 for 20 models Electric Cost: £0.04 Mark

Hi Kevin, Thanks for your post. Ask as many questions as you want, its a learning curve for you and me alike and to the benifit of everyone that views the blog. Safety First - You want to enoy your printing experience not get inuries from it ! so YES personal protective equipment is a necessity not an option IMHO. Gloves - are not that expensive and if you formulate a process for your prints in an ordered manner you shoud only use a maximum of 1 pair per print. Often if turned inside out when removing them you can re-use them when doing the "dirty" element of the process. Filters - I would highly recomend these, you do get some with the kit. I started my printing experience by removing the resin after each days printing and felt that the risk of contaminating the bottled resin was not worth the small cost of a single filter. That is no longer the case as i have a permanent home for my printer so i only remove resin from the print tank when i have had a failed print which is very rare. Like everything its personal preference and having a few spare filters is never a bad thing in my mind especially when if you need one it will take 5 days to get one if you haven't got a reserve. At the end of the day, contaminated resin will lead to failures of one sort or another and cost more in resin to reprint than the purchase of a few filters. One thing i have purchased which i now find invluable is a glass beaker ( chemistry lab type) which helps when filtering resin from the tank . It also doubles for something later on. Paper Towels - Cheap and correctly disposed of. I use these to put on my work surface when removing the printed parts from the build plate. I cure the dirty towels in direct sunlight (green house) and then re-use them when cured. I have a redundant vegetable peeling recycle bin that i put the towels in , its about 6L and i have only filed this 1.5 times since i started. You cannot get away from using towels to clean your tools etc but it really isn't going to break the bank and they are generally around the home in the quantity you will need, unless you are doing this on an industrial scale and then i'd say that these disposables would be factored into the unit cost. UV Curing Chamber - This is not a necessity but i print in 4mm Scale to this point the items are quite light ( often hollowed to save resin) and curing them in the daylight takes time and if not sheltered can cause damage, therefore I'd recommend one but there is always a window cill. I have purchased one that is used by nail arstist purchased from a local store at a cost of £15. I didn't get one when i started out and it was my 1st purchase after gettting the Elegoo mars, i really needed it as i was printing in the evening, out at work all day. As most of my items are small they easily fit into the chamber and not once have i regretted the purchase. Don't under estimate your desire to want to touch, feel and admire your creations - it becomes adictive ! FEP Films - As yet i have not changed my FEP Film, it is significantly marked but that appears not to affect the print. A certain law states that when you need it you'll wish you purchased one. Accidents will always happen but the likelyhood is they will happen when you first start using the machine as you are unfamilliar with the item. That said if you can wait 5-7 days for them to arrive then you could use the "when i need it approach". To me i ust wanted to crack on with experimenting and i got them about 2 weeks after my initial purchase. I was given a link to a facebook page for Elegoo Owners for free FEP Sheets, i've heard nothing back despite emails so i would entirely rely on that process. The link i believe is in my blog. Water Washable Resin - I am using the same bottle of resin i initially purchased. I have no experience of other types of resin so cannot comment fully on this subject. Again i chose this resin under the theory of accidental spillage during initial stages of learning the process it's that law again ! But i wanted to be prepared so Water Washable was a no brainer, Yes it's more expensive but when i accidently drip resin on my floor i dont have to use chemicals to clean it up and potentially damage the floor covering..... Drips are not uncommon, especially when transferring the build plate from its horizontal position to the 45 degree bracket position ( supplied with the kit). To my mind the tank needed to be designed bigger as often this process leads to drips from the build plate down the front of the tank. Its worth pointing out here you will need a couple of "food locakable" containers to clean your prints - you MUST NOT rinse them in the sink ! So I, like most, employ a two stage process cleaning process and then dispose of the waste when needed correctly via you local recylcling centre guidelines. I don't use water to clean my resin prints i use Isopropyl Alcohol ( which incidently i had from cast resin molding process) and this is mainly due to the fact that Alccohol flashes off and dries quicker than water. The parts I have printed to date are delicate to say the least i'm kind of pushing the lower boundaries in the models i have printed so drying them with towels etc is out of the question, we are talking in the range 0.6 - 0.7mm wall thickness sometimes finer. There has, due to the climate we are in at present, been a massive hike in the price of this commodity so be warned. I could easily use my ultrasonic cleaning bath to do the job ( used on PCB manufacturing amongst other processes). Please bear in mind we are not talking litres of fluid to clean 1 build plate full of prints we are talking a relatively small quantity. The use of 2 containers helps preserve the quantity of IPA being used. The item being cleaned only enters the 2nd container once it has been thoroughly cleaned in the 1st. When fluid in the 1st Container is IMHO contaiminated too much it is syringed into the chemistry lab beaker via a filter, the sludge (see picture) is then put into a waste container (to be disposed of later), the container cleaned and then the IPA in the beaker decaned back into the container with another pass through a filter. Likewise for renewing the IPA in the 2nd (last stage) container this is filtered directly into the 1st Container. The Sludge Left From Initial Cleaning In 1st Cleaning Pot. (Time to Empty It) The prints clean up well, but i will let you decide that as all of the photos in my blog have had nothing else done to them apart from this 2 stage cleaning process, curing and where applicable sprues removed. Even though i am now more accustomed to the process and in light of the current world situation i purchased another 2 ltres of the same resin as a stockpile item i should really try a different type, maybe someone out there can give you their perspective on resins ? Best of Luck with your purchase - i dont regret mine, i love it and wish i'd taken the plunge earlier ! Mark

WHAT'S THE POINT (PART 2) Today i turned my attention to the turnout detailing. I struggled to get an exact match to the prototype, strikes me the only way to achieve that would be a brass etch, insulated between each rail. (Maybe food for thought). So instead i opted for the best i could achieve with minimum thicknesses. Turnout Stretcher Bars Mark 1 was a one piece print. The stepping is quite noticeable in this print (0.5mm layer height) . I didn't have a turnout to hand so installed this onto a test plain track. The problem with the All in One Method is that on hand built track and especially on turnouts the blades may not be set the same distance apart so this clearly was not going to work. If only i'd engaged brain before pressing print ! Mark 2. Two part print The "Bar" is made over long and this fits into the seperate shoe, thus allowing for variations in turnout blade guaging. As a comparison i found a bit of 0.45mm left over brass etch so decided to use that as the "Bar" The fact that these parts are by their very nature quite small and normally covered in grime i wonder if you can be forgiven for the lack of prototypical rail attachments. Track Tie Rods Again a massive challenge given the fact that the majority is round bar but i opted for the 2 part approach on this also Assembled And one after i tried to fit it to the test track, which would never have worked as the test track is flatbottomed rail and not bullhead ! Ironically my thoughts are that the Tie Rod would benifit from being a single piece, as they should always be guaged the same unless fitted on a curve which Eridge only has sweeping ones so guage widening is not employed to that extent. I was surprised at how well the round bar printed so employing brass rod i don't think is necessary. As for Tie Rod Mark 2 well One thing that does detract from the item is the double flange which was used as the joining piece between the 2 part model. if printed in 1 piece i could loose one of these. I might also try to reduce the width of the hexagonal adusting turnbuckle as this is on the large side mainly down to wanting the visible hole in the centre , which didn't turn out although it is partially visible. My thoughts have also turned to Facing Point Locks and the like, although can of worms springs to mind as i don't have any knowledge on these ! SHOULD BE FUN !!!! Also need to build a bit of bullhead rail to "showcase" these bits . Mark

The Elegoo Mars has a print size of 120mm x 68mm x 155 mm which is the only limiting factor so unless your thinking locomotives in 2mm scale (N guage) then you will need to employ some design tatics and split the body into sections. Most of the "entry" level machines have a similar size bed. Some may see this as a drawback but i don't. The ability to design in a modular format allows for variations to be easily incorporated into the design stage. It would then be a case of printing and assembling a master before making a mold to make a cast if more than one was needed. Thats how i would tackle such a problem. I used a similar technique on Balcombe Viaduct when producing the corbels and refuges for the viaduct only down to the sheer number required. Only difference being that i had no 3d printer at the time so had to have the masters made by Shapeways. Mark

Hi jbd82, The diameter of the outer pulley wheel is 4mm (given true dimensions range from 10-12" diameter average and even 19"). They accept a 0.4mm wire rope. Good Luck on your purchase, its worth it IMHO Mark

WHAT'S THE POINT How small will the Elegoo print ? Well these are incredibly tiny and yet they still ressemble their prototype parts, sorry about the quality of the images i have found it hard to capture them in focus. One things for certain , It sure as hell beats making them up from brass frets. Eridge needs plenty of these along with Facing Point Locks, Stretcher Bars, Tie Bars and all manner of semaphore signalling parts. Not sure whether the "KAG Group members" will like the thought of these but lets kick it off Double Signal Pulley Still attached to the carrier, the small support rods between the pulleys have been clipped off to show that there are indeed 2 pulleys Just to prove i'm totally insane , there are 7 versions of the above , each with the pulley wheels at a different point of rotation ... MADNESS Single Pulley Wheel Point Rodding Compensator And 1 for a Friend Locomotive Oil Lamps (BR/SR) I'm not going to individually price these items as per previous posts because quite frankly most are less than 2p for 10 items. Not sure how the design for turnout tie rods, strectcher bars, FPL's will fair as the difficulty is not impeding the movement of the turnouts. We will see Mark

Curved Wall Update Have found a bit of time to clad the curved wall in slaters brick plastikard. Complete with my finger print !!!!!

The "trial" version was literally just glued onto un-treated wood with very little care must say. They seem to adhere best with Rapid Araldite so its a case of masking a suitable distance from the edge of the platform, lightly smeering the surface with aforementioned glue , removing masking tape, placing and then clamping them to the surface with fresh making tape until cured. I am quietly confident that with better attention to detail when assembling these that the finished article will be most satisfactory. If you are prepared to wait until the final results of Eridge Platforms are posted then I'm sure we can come to some sort of arrangement. If you are interested then feel free to message me. Mark

For a long while we (KAG) have contemplated the platform edging bricks and how to replicate them. Mike (founder member and builder of Eridge Mk 1) remembers the tedious job of scribing plastikard to represent the brick mortar joints. After some thought on this matter I have come up with this design A KISS design that allows the edging to follow a gentle curve and at the same time adusts the mortar joint to suite the curve. The key to all this happening is in the thicknesses used to make the item. With the aid of a recent purchase ( 3D printer) i was able to print this design albieit with a support mechanism. The sprue prevents the brick edging from following a curve until it is cut between the pegs . The adition of the sprue adds stability and greater handling area but comes with the downside that once installed needs to be removed and filed flush. This however still out weighs the prospect of scribing individual mortar lines. The above picture shows the Platform Brick Edging together with the sprue glued to the surface (platform). This was in my case an untreated bit of wood. Once set the sprue is clipped off and filed flush. Then the platform (brick) face is applied and the upper (tarmac) surface. Finally the brickwork is painted. It seems to work well and is easy enough to install. Hopefully this can be replicated to the layout and in due course i will be able to post some progress results here. In the meantime manufacuring them is ongoing (missing photograph - sorry ) Mark

Hi Woodbine I can only answer 1/2 your question ... that of creating artwork for etching. As you already have presumably a 3D model of the item you require to etch when you are completely satisfied with your 3d item create a sketch in the plane that you wish the item to be etched in. Then "Project" the faces of the item onto the sketch. Export this as a dxf file Open dxf file in an "artwork" package (I use Adobe Illustrator, other makes are available). This will give you the outlines of your items. You basically need to make a mirror of your original artwork, so that you have the original and the mirror. The mirror will become the transparency for the back whilst the original will become the transparency for the front. PPD have a great tutorial guide Here I'm only guessing but as its windows it will have some half etched detail on the front but the back will be full metal. Half Etch Front Detail will be on the front transparency and will be RED in colour Half Etch Rear Detail will be on the rear transparency and will be BLUE in colour Full Metal will be on both front and back transparency and will be Black in colour. Hope that helps Mark

Eridge Station Curved Brick Walls Eridge Station (Club Layout) has curved butress walls either side of the bridge that the station sits on. I tried to replicate these in plastikard but the curve and bow proved more than the plastikard/glue could handle. So i took the plunge and made a 3D file to have them printed at Shapeways in the form of a wall that brick cladding would be applied to. Unfortunately they also have "brick soldiers" around the top of the wall but to have this incorporated in the 3D print increased each wall by 300% due to the material selection. That meant that i had to print them seperately and glue the "brick soldiers" to the top of the wall aswell. The results were at best OK but i wasn't completely satisfied so since my purchase of the Elegoo i have been toying with reprinting them as one piece, still employing the clad brick construction to keep it the same as the rest of the bridge. I haven't managed to work out how to curve the "brick soldiers" in Fusion in both the Y and Z axis but have got fairly close so i decided to cut my losses and try a print Each Wall takes about 5hrs to print and fills the build plate. Up Line Front Curved Wall The one behind is the Shapeways carcase with slaters brick plastikard and Shapeways "brick soldiers" bonded together. Up Line Rear Curved Wall Each Wall Print Time: 5hrs + Printed 1st Time Cost: £0.52 Electric Cost: £0.35 Results are very pleasing if you forgive the "brick soldiers" Mark

Listed on ebay for £11.92 IPA 5 Litres HMMMMMmm Maybe thats . 5L

Hi Mark What guage do you model in ? How do you intend to make/ fix the wheel centres to the tyres ? Hope the print goes well and it inspires you to take the plunge. I certainly have no regrets, other than now the unacheivable seems achievable and your mind starts running a riot. Mark

Platform Edging Bricks As promised a quick build of the Edging Strips More care needed on strip joints Mark

Well Njee i was pondering that thought myself. The big question is..... what is the minimum clearance between objects ? Maybe some trials

Plasser & Theurer GPC 72 Well it was only a matter of time before temptation grew to strong to resist. This is a project that dates back to July 2018 when i started the design stage. The design was based around a brass kit, but before i could complete it Hattons announced their intention to make one. Story of my life as i also done some of the design of the 45t Ransome & Rapier Steam Crane before that was announced by Bachmann. All that said it still deserves some further investigation if only for self gratification. Obviously loads of parts to produce and with some small tweaks, mainly on wall thickness , i decided to print the 1st boom and Jib support structure. There is a method in my madness which i may divulge later ! I wasn't overly concerned with the placement of the supports when doing these prints it was more for development purposes rather than final model parts. No post print processing has taken part apart from uv curing. Jib Support with Ram Cylinder Jib Counterweight Combined Jib and Counterweight Again 53p so whats not to like. The last photo seems to show the jib as being curved but in reality it isn't . Mark

Platform Edging Bricks Anyone whom has built there own platforms will know that when it comes to finishing them off it becomes a bit difficult or tedious. To my knowledge there are no products out there to replicate brick edging. This means you either forget it, imitate it with paint or if you're a sadist scribe plastikard to produce the desired effect. Our P4 Club Layout , Eridge has 2 platforms about 5ft long. That's a lot of scribing ! So i decided to make this the next project for the Elegoo. The platforms are curved albeit gentle so that adds to the mix when it comes to design. This led to this design The size of the bricks was taken from The Bluebell Railway Platforms. The thickness that butts to the upper surface of the platform is 0.50mm which i felt was pretty much the minimum and when the platforms are covered with fake asphalt they should be fairly flush. The brick overhang on the platform sides is 0.80mm, when the sides are covered with brick plastikard this gives an overhang of 0.30 mm. The batten that runs along the pricks is 0.30 mm which allows the bricks to curve and form the relevant mortar joints. All seems rather plausible. Printing was done direct to the build plate, scary and sometimes sacrificial whilst removing these delicate uncured items. Results were fairly good on the viewing surface, however the batten suffered with splaying which then meant that they didn't sit correctly on the edge of the platform. A handful of unusable prints but at 1p a shot it was worth trying a few ideas. After some advice from Mr Trice (of this establishment) I tried to print them at 90 degrees with the side face against the build plate. This eliminated the defects but made the debond from the build plate almost impossible without breakages. After some thought and the prospect of using the supports from Chitubox to make removal easier at the expense of added build time due to the minimum height of the supports i decided to go back to the design board and add the supports in Fusion. This i have to say is far more accurate to place them. Revised Design Simple enough re-design as the principle worked . This actually makes the product better to handle and install albeit with some finishing work to carry out. The principle now is for straight sections to be installed as is and then the pegs cut and filed flush once glued to the surface. For curved secions it is the same principle but the main sprue needs to be cut between pegs to allow the item to curve. They were printed with the sprue attached to the build plate, long side of the brick hanging down. I guess to date i have printed 50 strips with no failures £0.07 for 5 items (434 mm) what's not to like about that ! Mark Build pictures to follow

Absolutely Cracking Job Locksley As is the Locomotive Rare and unusually quite appealling to me

Rod, They have stood the test of time, albeit with minor repairs from Mike, i think they will be in situ on our first exibition 16 years from Now !!!! Mark

Monkeysarefun, This post hasn't gone un-noticed. It is indeed a brave new world and i'm excited to be part of it . I can see this coming in handy later. I'm presently under the cosh with building a model for our club layout and hence the items for that figure heavily here at the moment. i have plenty of other projects (far more exciting than chimeny pots and coping stones) that i can see this technology playing a part in. Mark

Station Chimney Pots Another nice feature of a 3D Printer, you get to have prototypical items rather than settle for proprietary items at the press of a button. Dimensions sourced from an online auction house of all the places. Print Time: 44min 27 Sec Cost: £0.04 Electric Cost: £0.05

Hi Mike Not sure if you mean physical vertical height when stairs orientated the correct way or vertical height as printed. Anyway from the rear of the upright to the front face of the lower step is 24.6 mm according to Fusion 360, it actually measures 24.5 mm From the ground to the top of the support is 28.5 mm according to Fusion , it actually measures 26.7 mm. So some adustment needed in the Y plane as printed Mark