Theakerr

I had forgotten about the bearing. On at least one of my Bachmann locos over the years I remember it sounding like a milling grinder and all it took was a little oil on the bearing. Another thing I have seen reported on the forum and have experienced it myself is a faulty DCC pin board. I cannot remember the characteristics but one solution that works for some was to cut the capacitor leads and the other, which is how I solved my particular problem was to eliminate the board and hardwire the pickups to the motor. This has actually become my standard practice now.

The WDs had such a distinctive sound so it amazes me that I don't think I have heard a single sound equipped WD that had the correct sound.

Whilst I model 1955 to about 1962 and have no plans to change, I think one modern image model that might be interesting is an in and out Kings Cross. Lots of activity and relatively easy to run because coach sets with end details would not have to be turned, neither would locos. Also, it would be fairly easy to vary the time periods.

Regarding the Bogie de-railing when running in reverse, somewhere on this thread very early on it was considered a known problem due to the rather weird attachment mechanism. As I remember there were two solutions both of which seemed to work. I don't know if you can do a word search on the thread or not.

Agree with power directly to motor

I am curious as to why you used Code 75 (I presume) for the crossing and slips. I completely agree with decision because my system uses Code 100 but I found for the diamond crossings and slips I had to use code 75 to prevent rolling stock with modern wheels from derailing.

Sounds like you are stuck. The motor I worked on was silky smooth.

An A5 was the Station Pilot for a time at Grimsby and I had 'cabbed' it when it took out the local Grimsby to Louth pick-up, so it was a natural to build for me. Yes they were a handsome locomotive

Any chance of a bigger picture. That is a most interesting alternate and avoids the 'tail' issue

Tony, out of curiosity can you remember what type you were using? Providing care is taken to locate them at the correct radial position I find they don't need any further set up now I know what to do . If my memory is correct mine were Allan Gibson - I hope memory is correct because if I have a go at a C12 or J6 this winter i will need some more. On my first loco build (a Little Engines J11) I had planned to use the same method you use but this was some 30 years ago and I couldn't locate any small amounts of 'springy' wire in Canada and then I saw the plunger pick-ups in a Magazine article.

Now that I know the problem and that you are using plunger pick-ups I have a couple of thoughts. I like plunger pick-ups but they can be a bit tricky to set up. First the 'tail' and or the wire soldered to the 'tail' can come into contact with any number of bits inside the frame. Depending on how you have set them up they can rotate slightly and catch. Also depending on how your motor is fixed it may move slightly depending on direction causing the tail and it wire to move. Finally, if your wheels are not true either because of the problem mentioned about the square ends or because the bushings are slightly out of alignment the plunger moves in and out and tends to rotate just enough to cause aforementioned contact. Finally, you need to make sure that all plungers are in contact with the metal tire especially if you only have pick-ups on one side. What happens is that the wheels rotate the connecting rods can push or pull the wheels away from the plunger head. This effect can be amplified if the spacing washers are not set up to the correct thickness.

Don't know what the problem is but For information when I built my A5 years ago, a Craftsman kit I think, I had all kinds of problems with the front bogie shorting out. Even running in the dark didn't find one where the front was just catching the buffer where it protruded through the buffer beam. The 'flash' was under the frame and since it was very small was hidden. It took me a long time to get it all sorted because it would run OK for a while then some particular configuration caused it to short again. The back bogie was also a bit of a pain.

Don't know what the problem is but For information when I built my A5 years ago, a Craftsman kit I think, I had all kinds of problems with the front bogie shorting out. Even running in the dark didn't find one where the front was just catching the buffer where it protuded through the buffer beam. The 'flash' was under the frame and since it was very small was hidden. It took me a long time to get it all sorted because it would run OK for a while then some particular configuration caused it to short again. The back bogie was also a bit of a pain.

We may grumble at the price but at least you can get Bachmann parts, but for the most part they are available, the service is good and, what's more ,they supply to Canada at a reasonable postage rate. I deliberately do not mention another supplier.

Not clear what the question is. Do you want to remove the lamps that are super glued on or do you want to remove the remains of some superglue from the lamps. The latter I have no idea, but the former you can buy a Super Glue debonder. It does work. It may even work with blobs of residual Superglue but I dont know.

When I painted my A2 I decided to use an Humbrol Acryclic (Western Green) because I thought it slightly better than the Tamiya Dark Green. After some playing I found that using distilled water and a nearly 50:50 mix ration it goes on thinly requiring multiple sprays but not too badly at all. One thing that did catch me was how fast it separates, literally 10 minutes. Fortunately it was an early coat so I was going to have to put another coat on anyway. Another problem I found was that due to the thinness of the mixture it could run into corners and would actually separate out as it dried. FYI I do not have a pressure gauge on my compressor and I cannot alter the pressure which is fixed at about 20 psi. Lowering the pressure might have minimized the latter problem but I think care with spraying is more important.

A few years ago I had one apart for a friend because it was doing the same thing., especially compared to his other one. I adjusted the motor position be loosening the screw holding the motor clamp. I think it was forwards. It now runs beautifully smooth

Well I broke isolation a week ago today after 6/7 weeks. The battery on our #1 vehicle packed up and it really was a no choice situation. Very well done though, phoned, paid and arranged to have the battery at the dealers door. Total exchange time was no more than 30 secs. Not quiet as easy replacement though. The Santa Fe has a new fangled battery post attachment with almost no movement and would not clamp firmly to the post. Research suggests it is a fairly common problem and that there is a product 'Battery Terminal Shims' that does a lot better job than the Heath Robinson fix I was contemplating. Did mean another trip though. What a strange sensation it was going out, almost one of wonderment. More people out than I had expected. Then last Thursday I went to the Beer Store. Very strict protocol returns and purchases separated. Security Guard enforcing one person in store and distancing whilst waiting. Ontario is starting to open up and whilst II must admit to some serious concerns, it is pleasant to get out even just a little bit.

What Browser and OS are you and I who cannot see the pictures using? When I was using Safari I had some problems like this from time to time. I am using MAC OS Mojave and Firefox now but it may be a similar issue.

Can you make a slide over bushing from a piece of tubing to fit over the Romford Crank Pin?

Some of the paint matches I have found in Canada: BR Crimson. Can Tire Strawberry Fields Gloss, The Army Painter Warpaints "Chaotic Red", Tamiya TS11 Maroon ER Green Tamiya Dark Green XF-26 if it is to be lightly weathered and Humbrol RC405 GWR/BR Green BR Roof Grey Tamiya German Grey XF-63 BR Wagon Grey Tamiya Neutral Grey XF-53

Fantastic! However I must admit to feeling a bit of a ding-bat having looked at and watched Grantham many times and completely missed these signals. Jim

I have never seen a picture but I am wondering if anyone knows whether an extra tall stop signal on the ER ever had a bracket signal at the top as well as the main signal to signify that the line could split.

Makes sense because they are not a lot short. My method is my generic method because over the years I have managed to break various bits and pieces, vacuum pipes being one.

Re the A2 piston rod. When I first realized just how close the rod was to being undersized and thought it might actually be too short I had mentally devised a fix based on other bloopers over the years. As I would have had nothing to lose I would have cut the rod right at the 'ring' do-dad just before the slide casting, Drilled a small hole into the end, enlarged somewhat it to take a thicker steel wire. A small hole is better for centering. Superglue said wire into the hole as close to the centre as possible using a fairly viscous SG. Take a piece of brass tube making sure it was the right size and diameter either as made or by sanding down in my trusty Dremel, Now comes the tricky part. If Lady Luck is on my side, the inside diameter of the tube is close to the piece of wire and I can use a good quality epoxy to fasten the tube to the pin. Note sometimes Lady Luck can be charmed by inserting a smaller tube inside the larger one so the wire pin will fit. Sounds a bit fiddly and I suppose it is but really not that difficult and in this case should work very well because there will be almost no load at the joint.