Theakerr

My practice when soldering nuts in what will eventually become in-accessible places is to do the solder thing, scratch it a bit and then slap a good epoxy round the entire thing. Just defense in depth.

When you do 'rebuild' the valve gear watch out for the length of the piston rod. When I built my A2, I cut the first piston rod very close to the casting mark that I thought was a manufacturers mark to represent the end of the rod. It was very fortunate that I had left a little extra because even with that little extra the rod was very close to coming out of the piston. If the person who built this did cut it at the marking it will almost certainly have to be replaced. Re straightening, I have fixed several RTR by visually straightening and running a bit of solder at the back to strengthen the bent bit.

Yes and No. The No is because I have used it to remove 'weathering' on some badly weathered models. Basically I soak a q-tip in the Detol and gently wipe it down over the offending weathering. In a some cases i have been able to remove the weathering with just a q-tip soaked in Tamiya thinner but sometimes it was a bit harder (or different paint manufacturer) and that is where I used the Detol. Trial and error I'm afraid, especially since I dont like using IPA, it is just too vicious.

In my case it was completely chance. I had printed out the B of B instruction guide from Hornby (sometimes they are good sometimes So So) and I had printed out the Black 5 Service Sheet because I had picked it up at a very good price but it needed a little bit TLC and upgrading. It was then that I saw they were the same part number.

I now wonder if Detol in Canada is not the same as Detol in the UK. I have left stuff soaking in brown (that is the only one available over here) for long times, like over night from perhaps 20:00 to 10:00 with absolutely no softening of the plastic. In fact as I said it is a slow process.

Have you tried Detol. It take time but it is very gentle on any underlying paintwork. I am a big fan.

I am assuming that Plywood in the UK is the same as plywood in Canada and if so suggest you buy Marine Grade and 'good one side. Marine grade is stronger, less likely to warp or separate when cutting and does not delaminate should it get wet.

FYI I have now repaired a friend's two Hornby Battle of Britain locos for the same problem. As part of locating the afending sprocket I discovered it is the same one used in Hornby Black 5's so I ordered a spare for it.

I dont know this vehicle but on some recent Bachmann/Hornby trucks the NEM holder on the wagons is screwed on. This may be 're-workable'. In any case an alternate to Team Y might be to see if you can move the holder back and attach with a small screw.

Regarding coaches I am very much a novice in terms or replicating actual train formations but try to run something that looks right. Last night I watched an ECML video from about 1958 to as late as 1965 and what a mixture of coaches, even on what appeared to be Top Link trains. There was even one picture of a Pullman set with a Mk1 Restaurant Car (May have got the exact type wrong) in maroon .

Went to the fixed couplling site and came across this DCC system for Kadee couplings https://www.precimodels.com/en/ Looks rather neat and might even be usable on DC using a RC switch.

I just trawl the net for the new Bachmann B1's. I think last time I paid pounds 70 for 1 and 75 for the other. Both had been badly weathered and one had a bit of a botched job of putting extra weight and the origional body would not fit. No problem though because I didn't want the body anyway. I do now have a lot of tenders that one day I will convert to 'sludge' holders. Really neat those pictures of the Hornby tender and fire iron holder. I will take a picture of one of the tenders I have modified and post it tomorrow

Like you I have a fondness for B1's and have about 8 on my layout. All were the original split chassis types and most of them have deteriorated. Also, I had detailed and weathered them all. My solution was to look for cheap new Bachmann Chassis and replace the FUBARed ones with new chassis thus preserving the weathering etc and can be had for a lot less than a Comet B1. Essentially they are a drop in fit although all of them have piston rod guides that are slanted way down and need correcting. They also require extra weight because they are significantly lighter than the old ones and finally I have added a tender pick-up because the pick up doesn't seem to be as good as the old ones (before they gave up the ghost). The new chassis are excellent runners. Re the fire iron, based on the odd photo I could find I believe there was a fire iron holder and have made one assuming that the square hole in the tender wall is the opening. In most cases it is a faux hole going back about 10mm with a cut off fire iron sticking out.

A modern version of a Sir Humphrey statement

Well an interesting set of posts. First Roy, what an excellent layout. Then the two pictures I would have sworn were Grimsby clearly are not. That explains the smoke stack I couldn't recognize and the electric signals.

Wife and I have re-discovered Carry On Movies. Stupid, banal but not PC and fun to watch in these times. Excellent day today got out to do some yard-work and worked up a sweat. Next few days are scheduled to be miserable with some snow forecast. Keep well all.

Yes. Grimsby Docks. I used to work at the National Provincial Bank on the Corner of Riby Square about 500M from where these Photos were taken. Can't remember what the chimney is but the oval topped building is the Dock Tower, a hydraulic reservoir for the dock gates. Then you can just see the Grimsby Cold Storage Building. The level crossing here was a right pain because a fair bit of shunting took place and you could be stuck there for ages. (like Lincoln main street). The alternative route (cannot remember the name but it was a narrow shop lined busy street so you were between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea. What is interesting are the colour light signals. I don't remember them at all although I suppose they could be traffic lights.

When I started New Waltham some 30 years ago I spent ages trying to figure out to make it closer to the real thing. But bearing in mind the geometry of the space available, the fact that I wanted to have continuous runs and the non availability of DCC concepts magnetic attraction, I had to reverse the layout. So the Bch to Cleethorpes actually goes off to the left and the line to Boston goes off to the right, the opposite of the real world. Anyway, a few more pictures:

My tomato seeds have started to sprout

Sounds like someone has been inside and played with the wiring. I had to fix one for a friend. The previous owner had used DCC so he just set it up accordingly. Basically I just went in and reversed the output to the motor. However do make sure that it still runs fwds when it is supposed to. If it doesn't it gets a bit more complicated. It is my understanding and experience that the direction of an 8 pin blanking plug doesn't make any difference but I have seen some 21 pin plugs and they do have a position mark so it might be worth a simple check to see if blanking plug orientation makes a difference.

When I reworked some CCT vans I established this: Railmatch BR Crimson. Can Tire Strawberry Fields Gloss The Army Painter Warpaints "Chaotic Red" Tamiya TS11 Maroon. Also British Model Trains https://britishmodeltrains.ca/ has a fair selection of Humbrol paints although the acrylics are all matt.

A few more pictures of New Waltham although based on the loading rate for pictures tonight they may have to wait until later. Also tonight I will try to get some more recent pictures. Showing Mayflower even though 'backscene' is experimental (I dont have photo shop) but it is a loco I was always fond of having 'cabbed' it many times. It is a much reworked new Bachman B1.

Phil, Ignore them and stay around. Jim

Very similar to one of mine. In for a count of 8, out for a count of 8 eyes closed focusing on where your nose tip should be. It is interesting because when I get there I get what feels like a slight body temp drop and I start to see waves of colours. Very peaceful.

More of New Waltham. Tony, the A2 is a DJH kit and a lot of the credit in the building of it goes to your Right Tracks Video. I did post a bigger image a while back I will try to find it again. Now to some more pictures, however a bit of background. Due to geography it was not feasible to build an operating layout, I wanted to watch more or less full length trains go by and I didn't want to watch the same train going round and round. So I developed an automated sequence that allows 9 trains in each direction to go round at realistic speeds. Recently I have also developed an automated station stop module. So the pictures tonight show the analog/digital control system for the automated sequencing and the storage yards. Also included are a couple of pictures that sort of show 'The Grimsby Effect'. I may have to take some more because the ones I do have are poor quality..