Theakerr

Agree with power directly to motor

I am curious as to why you used Code 75 (I presume) for the crossing and slips.  I completely agree with decision because my system uses Code 100 but I found for the diamond crossings and slips I had to use code 75 to prevent rolling stock with modern wheels from derailing.

Sounds like you are stuck.  The motor I worked on was silky smooth.

An A5 was the Station Pilot for a time at Grimsby and I had 'cabbed' it when it took out the local Grimsby to Louth pick-up, so it was a natural to build for me.  Yes they were a handsome locomotive

6 hours ago, Killybegs said:

 

I have used them successfully in the past on a High Level pannier chassis. I only used the nylon sleeve from the Alan Gibson kit, substituting a length of brass rod for the plunger. This was drilled to take phosphor spring wire soldered to PCB strip in the same way that you would for bearing on the tyres. This gives much softer springing. See below.

 

Any chance of a bigger picture.  That is a most interesting alternate and avoids the 'tail' issue

22 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I thought plunger pick-ups were a good idea, John,

 

Until I tried them.

 

Never again! They stuck, and for absolute adjustment the wheels had to be taken off too many times.

 

Now, I avoid them like the plague......

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony, out of curiosity can you remember what type you were using?  Providing care is taken to locate them at the correct radial position I find they don't need any further set up now I know what to do .   If my memory is correct mine were Allan Gibson - I hope memory is correct because if I have a go at a C12 or J6 this winter i will need some more.   On my first loco build (a Little Engines J11) I had planned to use the same method you use but this was some 30 years ago and I couldn't locate any small amounts of 'springy' wire in Canada and then  I saw the plunger pick-ups in a Magazine article.

Now that I know the problem and that you are using plunger pick-ups I have a couple of thoughts.  I like plunger pick-ups but they can be a bit tricky to set up.  First the 'tail' and or the wire soldered to the 'tail' can come into contact with any number of bits inside the frame.  Depending on how you have set them up they can rotate slightly and catch.  Also depending on how your motor is fixed it may move slightly depending on direction causing the tail and it wire to move.  Finally, if your wheels are not true either because of the problem mentioned about the square ends or because the bushings are slightly out of alignment the plunger moves in and out and tends to rotate just enough to cause aforementioned contact.   Finally, you need to make sure that all plungers are in contact with the metal tire especially if you only have pick-ups on one side.  What happens is that the wheels rotate the connecting rods can push or pull the wheels away from the plunger head.  This effect can be amplified if the spacing washers are not set up to the correct thickness.

On 22/05/2020 at 15:42, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

I’m in awe! I thought I was doing reasonably well with my A5 kit, but it still doesn’t work well and needs more fettling, so is in the ‘too difficult’ pile for the moment. I find that bit of a kit build the most frustrating and worrying.

 

I seem to be busier than ever now with the house full of kids and wife whereas I normally have it to myself. And the allotment needs watering and weeding regularly  - I might need those spuds when the country runs out of food!

 

However as well as the A5, I have managed to get some ballasting done on Gresley Jn which was well overdue, so progress is being made - just much slower than yours! 

Andy

 

Don't know what the problem is but For information when I built my A5 years ago, a Craftsman kit I think, I had all kinds of problems with the front bogie shorting out.   Even running in the dark didn't find one where the front was just catching the buffer where it protruded through the buffer beam.  The 'flash' was under the frame and since it was very small was hidden.   It took me a long time to get it all sorted because it would run OK for a while then some particular configuration caused it to short again.  The back bogie was also a bit of a pain.

On 22/05/2020 at 15:42, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

I’m in awe! I thought I was doing reasonably well with my A5 kit, but it still doesn’t work well and needs more fettling, so is in the ‘too difficult’ pile for the moment. I find that bit of a kit build the most frustrating and worrying.

 

I seem to be busier than ever now with the house full of kids and wife whereas I normally have it to myself. And the allotment needs watering and weeding regularly  - I might need those spuds when the country runs out of food!

 

However as well as the A5, I have managed to get some ballasting done on Gresley Jn which was well overdue, so progress is being made - just much slower than yours! 

Andy

 

Don't know what the problem is but For information when I built my A5 years ago, a Craftsman kit I think, I had all kinds of problems with the front bogie shorting out.   Even running in the dark didn't find one where the front was just catching the buffer where it protuded through the buffer beam.  The 'flash' was under the frame and since it was very small was hidden.   It took me a long time to get it all sorted because it would run OK for a while then some particular configuration caused it to short again.  The back bogie was also a bit of a pain.

We may grumble at the price but at least you can get Bachmann parts, but for the most part they are available, the service is good and, what's more ,they supply to Canada at a reasonable postage rate.  I deliberately do not mention another supplier.

Not clear what the question is.  Do you want to remove the lamps that are super glued on or do you want to remove the remains of some superglue from the lamps.  The latter I have no idea,   but the former you can buy a Super Glue debonder.  It does work.  It may even work with blobs of residual  Superglue but I dont know.

8 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Yes, RC424 is one of Humbrol's  acrylic railway colours. My preference is for Railmatch enamels, but I've never seen that in Australia (certainly not Perth) and I don't have a cream. I have about 5 pots of the Humbrol cream (and 6 of their crimson - but that seems even grittier) that I bought from a model shop that closed down about 2 years ago. Neither of them brush very well either. Your tip of mixing a bit of varnish in the cup has made me think maybe I could try the same with an acrylic varnish on a practice piece; thanks. I also have a variety of acrylic thinners so I'll have a play over the weekend.

When I painted my A2 I decided to use an Humbrol  Acryclic (Western Green) because I thought it slightly better than the Tamiya Dark Green.  After some playing I found that using distilled water and a nearly 50:50 mix ration it goes on thinly requiring multiple sprays but not too badly at all.   One thing that did catch me was how fast it separates, literally 10 minutes.  Fortunately it was an early coat so I was going to have to put another coat on anyway.  Another problem I found was that due to the thinness of the mixture it could run into corners and would actually separate out as it dried.  FYI I do not have a pressure gauge on my compressor and I cannot alter the pressure which is fixed at about 20 psi.  Lowering the pressure might have minimized the latter problem but I think care with spraying is more important.

A few years ago I had one apart for a friend because it was doing the same thing., especially compared to his other one.   I adjusted the motor position be loosening the screw holding the motor clamp.  I think it was forwards.  It now runs beautifully smooth

Well I broke isolation a week ago today after 6/7 weeks.  The battery on our #1 vehicle packed up and it really was a no choice situation.  Very well done though,  phoned, paid and arranged to have the battery at the dealers door.  Total exchange time was no more than 30 secs.  Not quiet as easy replacement though.  The Santa Fe has a new fangled battery post attachment with almost no movement and would not clamp firmly to the post.  Research suggests it is a fairly common problem and that there is a product 'Battery Terminal Shims' that does a lot better job than the Heath Robinson fix I was contemplating.   Did mean another trip though.  What a strange sensation it was going out, almost one of wonderment.  More people out than I had expected.   Then last Thursday I went to the Beer Store.  Very strict protocol returns and purchases separated.  Security Guard enforcing one person in store and distancing whilst waiting.   Ontario is starting to open up and whilst II must admit to some serious concerns, it is pleasant to get out even just a little bit.

What Browser and OS are you and I who cannot see the pictures using?  When I was using Safari I had some problems like this from time to time.  I am  using MAC OS Mojave and Firefox now but it may be a similar issue. 

8 hours ago, ScRSG said:

Tony,

A question if I may. Working on a DJH A2/2 at the moment, it was one of the ones with pre-assembled valve gear and was originally supplied with wheels which had large crank pins already fitted (before DJH stopped supplying wheels) . So the valve gear is etched to suit with very large holes which will be far to big for standard Romford crank pins - any advice on how you may have solved this problem?

Thanks

Chas

Can you make a slide over bushing from a piece of tubing to fit over the Romford Crank Pin?

Some of the paint matches I have found in Canada:

BR Crimson.   Can Tire Strawberry Fields Gloss, The Army Painter Warpaints "Chaotic Red",  Tamiya TS11 Maroon

ER Green Tamiya Dark Green XF-26 if it is to be lightly weathered and Humbrol RC405 GWR/BR Green

BR Roof Grey Tamiya German Grey XF-63

BR Wagon Grey Tamiya Neutral Grey XF-53

22 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

There are some wonderful examples on Grantham.....................

 

 

 

 

 

French, the signalling engineer on the GN, insisted on sky backgrounds where possible.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Fantastic!  However I must admit to feeling a bit of a ding-bat having looked at and watched Grantham many times and completely missed these signals.   Jim

I have never seen a picture but I am wondering if anyone knows whether an extra tall stop signal on the ER ever had a bracket signal at the top as well as the main signal to signify that the line could split.

13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

My 'cure' for a too-short piston rod is to solder a small piece of brass tubing where the rod goes into the cylinder, extending rearwards: the diameter of the tubing being easily able to accommodate the piston rod. It's held in place with a cocktail stick whilst soldering takes place, after being pre-tinned. 

 

DJH provide little cast 'collars' to fix in place, but these are occasionally too short. 

 

Forewarned is forearmed, of course, and now I don't cut the piston rod/crossheads off at the moulding mark, but further along the sprue. It's usually easier to shorten a component than to extend it. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Makes sense because they are not a lot short.  My method is my generic method because over the years I have managed to break various bits and pieces, vacuum pipes being one.

Re the A2 piston rod.  When I first realized just how close the rod was to being undersized and thought it might actually be too short I had mentally devised a fix based on other bloopers over the years.  As I would have had nothing to lose I would have cut the rod right at the 'ring' do-dad just before the slide casting,    Drilled a small hole into the end, enlarged somewhat it to take a thicker steel wire.  A small hole is better for centering.  Superglue said wire into the hole as close to the centre as possible using a fairly viscous SG.  Take a piece of brass tube making sure it was the right size and diameter either as made or by sanding down in my trusty Dremel,  Now comes the tricky part.  If Lady Luck is on my side, the inside diameter of the tube is close to the piece of wire and I can use a good quality epoxy to fasten the tube to the pin.   Note sometimes Lady Luck can be charmed by inserting a smaller tube inside the larger one so the wire pin will fit.  Sounds a bit fiddly and I suppose it is but really not that difficult and in this case should work very well because there will be almost no load at the joint.

My practice when soldering nuts in what will eventually become in-accessible places is to do the solder thing,  scratch it a bit and then slap a good epoxy round the entire thing.  Just defense in depth.

3 hours ago, juke said:

A while back I bought a S/H DJH Peppercorn A2 to use with my Golden Age Coaches. At that time I was still working at getting the coaches to perform so set this aside.

 

I got it out recently and it didn't run far before coming to a dead stop. The piston rod has been pulled out by a bent connecting rod, the picture shows it well enough to see, hopefully.

What I'm wondering is whether I would be likely to be able to get the bent connecting rod straightened well enough to be acceptable or if DJH sell individual parts, as the piston rod is missing on the other side!

Other thought is just to get a new set for each side.

I'd appreciate some thoughts on this as I haven't yet built up the gear on the new loco so it's a learning experience.

 

 

When you do 'rebuild' the valve gear watch out for the length of the piston rod.  When I built my A2, I cut the first piston rod very close to the casting mark that I thought  was a manufacturers mark to  represent the end of the rod.  It was very fortunate that I had left a little extra because even with that little extra the rod was very close to coming out of the piston.  If the person who built this did cut it at the marking it will almost certainly  have to be replaced.   Re straightening, I have fixed several RTR by visually straightening and running a bit of solder at the back to strengthen the bent bit.

Yes and No.  The No is because I have used it to remove 'weathering' on some badly weathered models.  Basically I soak a q-tip in the Detol and gently wipe it down over the offending weathering.  In a some cases i have been able to remove the weathering with just a q-tip soaked in Tamiya thinner but sometimes it was a bit harder (or different paint manufacturer) and that is where I used the Detol.   Trial and error I'm afraid, especially since I dont like using IPA, it is just too vicious.

In my case it was completely chance.  I had printed out the B of B instruction guide from Hornby (sometimes they are good sometimes So So) and I had printed out the Black 5 Service Sheet because I had picked it up at a very good price but it needed a little bit TLC and upgrading.   It was then that I saw they were the same part number.