Theakerr

11 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

When the Wills point rodding was introduced, I thought it was the answer to my prayers; however, unfortunately, I model (mainly) in 4mm scale (not S, or even 7mm!). 

 

Just too big I'm afraid - too big to go underneath 'scale' rail.

 

Yes, the MSE range is fiddly (as is Brassmasters, which I also used), but it's a much nearer scale representation. 

 

I found it best to do LB's rodding (around 35' of it!) in stages (which gave me time to 'recover' 'tween times), just letting it take its course. Most of it was made-up off-site in my workshop, then installed in situ. I thought I'd done well from time to time at the bench, thinking I'd made quite a run. Then, I took it to the layout and it 'literally' disappeared!

 

Once you start, you'll find you've got to complete it. You'll also probably find layouts without it (where there should be rodding) 'disappointing' afterwards. 

 

The big advantage of the MSE system is that it's soldered together, though runs underneath rails must be made of plastic-equivalent section to obviate shorts.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Thanks Tony, I had thought it would have to be assembled in situ based on the components but pre-assembling and soldering said assembly together should be much easier and should minimize kinks in the rodding.

What type of voltage regulator.  I tried an L298 but I could not get rid of the PWM effect and the motors did not like that at all.

Gentlemen, I am about to embark on the point rodding install journey.  I live in the Great White North, which as I type is turning white, and therefore cannot see any actual product examples.  So before I start I would greatly appreciate the collective knowledge of this thread.   As background, my track is all ballasted but I have a nice cinder drain at the edge of the ballast as per good LNER/BR practice and my intent at this point is to run the rodding to the track and not bother about going under rails etc.   My research suggests there are 4 suppliers.  First is the Wills.  The still pictures suggest it looks very good but based on comments on this thread it is way overscale.  The next is MSE.  The range looks very comprehensive, it is the one Tony used but it does look very fiddly.  The third on the list is ModelU.  The range is limited to the stools but they do look very nice.   Finally there is DCC concepts.  Since my rodding will be cosmetic it seems a bit of an overkill.

How do you intend to control the train speed (voltage)?  I have something similar to your proposal for a station stop module I have built but after doing much research I had to use an electro-mechanical system.

6 hours ago, atom3624 said:

One thing worthy of mention is this is one of Bachmann's steamies with 'working valve gear' - the pivot being above the valve and the rod moving in the valve - something Hornby don't seem to do.

 

Strange, correct me if I'm mistaken, but MANY years ago, H-D / Wrenn locomotives always did this.

 

Al.

Correct.

Might also want to look at what the Chinese are doing with Magalev Technology.  We don't read or hear much about it except for the Shanghai Airport but they are actually installing other systems.  It continues to amaze me in the way that our media somehow manage to make it look as though China is still following the West

Looks very much in line with the current political philosophy,  'say all the words' - then do nothing.  My wife and I wanted to take the train out to BC a couple of years ago.  We would have picked up the train at Sudbury due to where we live.  No secure parking either at the physical station or the downtown location and if we had used non Via secure parking in Sudbury we had to pay for a Taxi to take us out to the station and pick us up on the way back.  The list continues.  Reminded me of BR in the 60's when they were saying all the right things but appeared to be doing everything they could to put people off traveling by train.

Agree re re-seting the spring,  also check that it is properly in place.  Over the years I have had one or two springs where one side has 'popped' out of its locating slot.  This results in a spring that sort of works.  You will not glue an insert into the base.  The plastic that Peco use just will not take glue.   However, in similar situation to your, both I and a friend have both had success sliding a 'bushing' over the solenoid pin.   In one case it is still working
OK 25+ years later

When I put in a Smiths replacement or any other brand for that matter, I don't bother with the spring or split pin.  I just glue it in.  Has been working on some wagons now for 30 years and is a lot easier to install.

For a lot of the newer models I leave the hook intact and just insert the chain link.  In fact sometimes I wonder if they are designed to do that because the slots seem to be sized just right for a link .015" diameter

7 hours ago, Jack Benson said:

I forgot to ask, does the metal thingy hold a rubber seal fit inside the plastic bung that seals the liquid reservoir? 
 

Cheers

I have assumed that it is some sort of mechanical sealing device to stop the cleaning fluid from coming out to quickly.  This assumption is based on tests with it in place and without it.

Very happy with my Accurascale instanter and screw-link couplings.  Easy fit, reasonably easy to use and look pretty good.

Non MR related but I have just found that a local importer of UK stuff has some 'BISTO' Curry Sauce Gravy modules.   From 40 plus years ago before i left the UK Curry Sauce for Chips was becoming popular but now for 'BISTO' to bring it out it must be pretty well mainstream.   BTW I did buy some and some UK Chinese Curry Mix.

Re the LRM C12, after my J6 it is probably my next build.  Was the boiler pre-rolled?

A couple of info note re my experience of changing the front bogie wheels.   With the exception of diamond crossings and single slips, all my track-work is Code 100  (code 75 wasn't available when I started) and wheels on all my rolling stock have been replaced with metal sets.   Back to the front bogies, back to back setting is absolutely critical and spacing washers between .25 and .5mm on both sides are also necessary.  The latter may not seem important but I without them there is so much side play that they will de-rail pretty well on any curved section of a point.  I have also found it necessary to add a 10 thou shim on the inside of the check rail the pulls the wheels into a curve in some track configurations.

20 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

I wouldn't hold your breath - all Pacifics from Hornby now seem to come with fixed trailing trucks.

 

John Isherwood.

And the design is such that they are a pain if you want to run the flanged wheels (if they come with them).   I have put the flanged wheels in three of my Pacifics, one only required grinding the chassis but the other two came with wheels that had a plastic centre boss sticking over 1/8 inwards from the wheel face.  It was so bad on one that I couldn't even get the flanged wheels in.  Had to do surgery on the plastic inserts and grinding the chassis.  I have a minimum 36" curves and one is still tight causing the loco to sometimes have a momentary slow down as it enters the curve.  When i test ran it there was no problem so I surmise that entry path varies a little and Sod's Law ensured that the test runs had the correct entry path.  Will have to take it apart again and do some more grinding. 

When I supposedly worked for a living, as opposed to being retired, some of the best 'product' came out of the  continuous incremental improvement process.  Looking back it was interesting in how the 'originator' of the product viewed the improvement process.  Some accepted it gladly and did not see it as a negative reflection on themselves or their Group.  Some, and I am sad to say the majority, did not accept it well seeing it as critical, insulting and questioning of their knowledge as well as a loss of their I because they thought it meant sharing.  Often they actively blocked potential improvements resulting in stagnation and frequently being by-passed.   I don't see any Troll like comments on this thread and therefore see the comments about Retford, or any other layout for that matter, in a similar way - positive. 

 Over the years I have found that the axle housings collect crud and sometimes just cleaning it out with the 'Truck Tuner' (Micro Mark tools) will significantly free up the running

Saw Screaming Lord Sutch at RAF North Coates. 

Re the B17, It might be an anathema to some, but then so is Bullfrog Snot.   So why not put a motor bogie (Replica) in one of the coaches.  They are effective and it would be hidden in a Guards Van.

Basically E-Bay is finished for me.  I stopped bidding several years ago after being 'out-bid' right at the last minute and recently i have stopped looking because, as mentioned by others, the postage and 'associated costs' have become horrendous.  I have had to make one or two exceptions because they are the only suppliers of certain parts but it sticks in my craw every time I get to the bottom line when the cost of postage + customs + whatever is sometimes the same and on a couple of occasions more than the item.  For my occasional forays into buying,  I have a list of dealers who handle 2nd hand items as well as new stuff and levy reasonable charges.  The E-Bay situation is a bit of a shame because it was really useful to the small Guy who wanted to get rid of stuff but that is the world of big business and monopolies.

Happy with mine, especially at the price i paid for it.

On 24/09/2020 at 11:22, John Tomlinson said:

That's some very fine and sturdy work.

 

A long, long time ago I was taught both at school and by my Dad ( who'd served his time as a joiner), that you never screw into end grain. Something you've obviously followed as well, unlike many constructions that one sees.

 

John.

Our woodwork Master did not allow screws regardless of grain.  Everything had to be jointed and glued - horse/animal glue at that and it smelt

21 hours ago, bbishop said:

Something substantive, but no bigger than necessary.  So the stationmaster would have three bedrooms at first floor level (more above?), two reception and kitchen below.  Booking office, booking hall, ladies' waiting room in a single story building and gents' facilities in a lean to.  The variable would be any company offices, which could be above the passenger area.  Bill

How about Brocklesby with Lord Yarborough's personal private waiting room.

Also forgot to mention that when I first started doing work on my Friend's DCC locos (bear in mind I have DC) I had exactly the same experience you describe and like you I tried different blanks.  Turned out I was not pushing the blank all the way home.  Now I make a pint of visually examining if the blank is all the way home.  Several times even though i know what to do I have seen there is about a 0.5mm gap and a fairly forceful push is required to get them all the way home.