hymek2

A book from you ... about time! Seriously, it would be good to get a better idea of how you produce your models. I know in the model press we occasionally get snippets on a page or two with brief captions or an article on one of your layouts over a couple of pages with a handful of photos, but a "start to finish" book consisting of a few plans, then build one, from track planning, baseboards, track laying and making, building construction, ground works etc, then how to photograph it at the end. Each of the sections could give far more detail and photos/illustrations than any of the magazines could give you space for. I don't expect you to be writing thousands of pages, but a chapter or two on the subjects with a sensible amount of detail would go down well for experienced modellers as well as newcomers or less experienced members of our hobby. Keep up the good work and keeping us informed of projects.

Thanks, I had noticed the difference between the 220 and 330. The 220 seems to be available second hand via the usual auction site(s) along side the new 330. www.mdpsupplies.co.uk seem to have some offers of other bits and pieces with the machines but I will have a look around before purchasing.

Thanks for your reply. The extra pics prove the ability of the machine (I work in oo) and it looks as though I could save me a lot of time cutting manually. I would leave a much larger frame around mine and sandwich them between plasticard (or maybe even card) layers. Thanks Chris also for your input..... unbelievably, Mr Cox was a fellow club member until I moved house a few weeks ago and now I'm 220 miles away.... didn't realise he used the craftrobo on his excellent 2mm scale layout. Time to look to see where I can get one the cheapest I think.

I agree with 45156, can we see some pictures of the model now please?

These look good. I have been thinking of buying a similar machine but have been unsure of how narrow you could cut the glazing bars. From your pictures though I cant see if these are in n/oo or o gauge. Could you put another picture on with say a 5p piece to give an idea of how big they are? Have you used thin card or paper? Do you think it would cut 5 thou plasticard (the really thin stuff)? Thanks.

I'm in the middle of a house move at the moment and having leave my cold but large garage behind and will need to move into a wooden shed/workshop at the new location. I cant believe how much I have had to pack away in the garage over the last few days. I think there is more in there than in the rest of the house with 5 occupants!. Fitting it into the new workshop is going to be very interesting. I will definitely need to declutter when time allows. I may also be able to get on with some modelling as well. Keep up the good work and keep me/us inspired with more pictures until I am able to get some tools out again.... I fear it may be some time as the new Workshop will need aquiring and erecting, insulating, lining, wiring etc....

Keep bodging to the same high standard then. I have been lucky enough to aquire some of the tools you aspire too via various means and still fancy others, but it doesn't always equate that the end product will be that much better, if better at all! It means I model away from the family in a cold garage (especially in the winter) because most of the tools wont fit indoors or I would have to keep carting them around. A basic simple tool box isn't such a bad thing.

Building looks very good, keep posting progress. I was surprised by this comment "This is the sort of thing that real modellers use engineers squares or machined metal blocks for, but I'm not a real modeller and don't have these kinds of things - one day, perhaps " Real modellers improvise, just as you have done. The interesting thing is your square can be adjusted to whatever dimensions you need. Now where is the kids lego box.........

I agree, I think the colour looks good. Having worked in the Power industry using coal, anything and everything ends up being covered in black dust, especially as here where the coal would fall some distance releasing the dust into the atmosphere.

Thanks for the answers to my previous questions. Most helpful. I do use MEK (my father used to run a model shop many years ago and used to buy it in large bottles from a chemist, then decant it into smaller bottles to sell on (probably wouldnt be allowed these days) I have a quantity left that should last my lifetime!). I am also trying Dl-limonene as recommended by Geoff Kent at Warley (bought from Wizard Models). Seems to be just as easy to use but smells of lemon so is more "family friendly" and applied with a proper MEK type brush which I agree gives much more control. What material are you using for the glazing? maybe that makes a difference. Keep up the good work - looking forward to a book one day!

Hi, fantastic buildings. A couple of questions..... Looking at the goods shed office, is the internal bracing "Evergreen" type strip? The picture that shows the inside of the goods shed looking at the plain internal wall appears to have large "X"s, is this simliar type bracing? And are the small black spots on the inner end wall small holes to allow a liquid cement through? How do you make your windows, skylights etc. Its the one thing I can never seem to make accurately. Any chance of a photo-strip session on how one is made? I seen note of a possible book...... I'd be interested..... Thanks.