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philiprporter

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Posts posted by philiprporter

  1. I've decided that the time has come to say farewell to Standedge Tunnel and I would like to offer it for sale. I hope its OK to post this here - but I'm looking for about £500 and the only 'condition' of sale is that, should the layout be exhibited in the future or appear in magazines, credit is given to myself as the original builder. It would also be courteous to confirm with David Heys that he is still happy for his images to appear on the front facia. I will try and upload some images of the layout 'set up' in the next few days, but the best source of images remains Model Rail July 2019 which shows everything except for the black curtain around the base of the layout. Layout would need to be collected from Bedfordshire.

     

    If you are interested or have any questions, please PM me

    Thanks, Phil. 

     

    Also please note the following:

    • Layout has full lighting rig/pelmet and black curtain to hide the legs front and sides.
    • I will supply spare trees, scatter etc. to allow any touching in or development of the scenic areas. 
    • Legs are attached with coach bolts (supplied). Boards are joined with coach bolts and have alignment dowels fitted. 
    • The layout boards are built partly from foamboard and partly from styrofoam.
    • Wire handrails from the bridge over the canal will need re-fitting and are supplied separately.  
    • The electrics will need completing - track feeds are present, but I never got round to wiring up to a control panel. Electrical connections between boards are all wired in and connection is made with multi-pin connectors. 
    • Only the scenic point has a point motor installed. Fiddle yard points do not have motors installed. 
    • New mounts for supporting the backscene will need to be built - I rigged up temporary Velcro equipped mounts from foamboard, but these had to be removed to allow the layout to be transported in my car when I moved house. 
    • The Dapol working signal will need replacing - this got damaged during the aforementioned house move. 
  2. I hope this isn't too far off topic, but I've just received the BR blue split head code class 40 with sound fitted - the leaflet says the decoder is an ESU 21MTC Loksound V5 - am I safe to assume this isn't a Loksound 'Select' decoder? I would like to re-blow the chip and fit a better speaker, but I understand that re-blowing isn't possible for the Select decoders? If anyone can confirm either way I'd be really grateful. Many thanks, Phil. 

  3. On 17/05/2017 at 09:58, Richard Pike said:

    I have just installed sound into my Peak and must say the model is a vast improvement over other Heljan models, very DCC friendly, the wiring did not need extending and wiring colours are now common, i.e right hand pick up's are red, left hand black etc.

     

    Decoder I have used, supplied by Paul Chetter, is the new Zimo 696 which mounts onto a sub connector board which is really usefull should I want to have the Decoder modified at any time as it simply unplugs leaving all the wiring in place.

     

     

    post-1685-0-71714900-1495011082.jpg

     

    post-1685-0-97343300-1495011104.jpg

     

    post-1685-0-29381200-1495011128.jpg

     

    Could I ask what speakers you used with this sound installation? That Zimo set up does look very neat and useful with the chip just unplugging if needed. Cheers, Phil. 

  4. 32 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

    It’s interesting to look at the pictures of the o gauge model - eg http://www.tower-models.com/towermodels/ogauge/Heljan/locos/class45/index.htm

     

    I’m no expert but:

    a) grill detail appears more accurate

    b) the body curve definitely begins below the cab rainstrip and there appears to be a slight taper on the top of the cab door?

    c) the rivets/screws appear to be too prominent.

     

    I’ve always had a soft spot for peaks particularly 45060 which was the first loco number I noted when I was first taken trainspotting in 1982 so I’ll probably order the Rails special of that loco.

     

    David

    If its any help, the rivets are very subtle and well-executed on my O gauge Peak - they don't look anything like as pronounced as they appear on the top few photos on the Tower Models site (I guess this may be down to contrast/lighting etc.) and I suspect the same will be the case for the OO gauge version.

     

    Likewise always loved the Peaks - happy memories of trans-Pennine journeys behind them back in the day!

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  5. 56 minutes ago, Waverley West said:

    Another one of 47642 which got left out...

     

    47642d.jpg.335790b5a714341ed974e81763e0123e.jpg

    Hi Dave absolutely love this photo (as well as all the others! but the sunlight really does it for me) - I hope you won't mind me asking as I suspect it may have been asked before, but how do you replicate the buffer head grease on your locos? It's a really subtle effect to get right which I can't get right no matter what I try, but it always looks bang on in all your shots! All the best, Phil. 

    • Like 2
  6. 23 hours ago, markjj said:

    145mm the measurements are on the Tower models site I hope this helps.

    http://www.tower-models.com

     

    I'm sure someone is doing laser kits based on bits of Hitchin have you tried looking at all the laser kit sites? 

    Mark is this the one you were thinking of? It looks cracking although a lot less glass than Hitchin - not for sale yet, but does have a lower 'front door' by the looks of it - my concern with the Heljan one is that the front door is rather high - presumably in case people want to use it as a shed with OHLE?: 

     

    https://railwaylaserlines.co.uk/product/rll704ss-two-road-servicing-refuelling-shed-in-o-gauge/

  7. 1 hour ago, markjj said:

    145mm the measurements are on the Tower models site I hope this helps.

    http://www.tower-models.com

     

    I'm sure someone is doing laser kits based on bits of Hitchin have you tried looking at all the laser kit sites? 

    Thanks very much indeed Mark - sorry I hadn't seen the Tower Models site - doh! I will have a scan of the laser kits and see what I can find - thanks for the heads up! Best wishes, Phil. 

  8. If anyone has this kit would it be possible to let me know the vertical distance from the ground to the top of the main door opening (I.e. the door that locos go in and out of)? I'm possibly looking at using it as a basis for Hitchin shed which has a 'front door' 131mm tall in O gauge. 

    Thanks, Phil 

  9. Thanks guys very helpful. So do you varnish the whole loco with a top coat or just a brief waft with the airbrush over the area that's had the transfers applied? I'm just worried that a brief waft of varnish will show up, unless the airbrushed varnish is an exact match to the factory finish which seems unlikely? Not an issue if you then go on to weather the loco.

    Thanks, Phil. 

  10. I've tried to search for an answer to this but can't find anything so I'm hoping this isn't a repeat question, but with Heljan O gauge diesels mostly coming un-numbered how do people apply number transfers?

     

    I know the usual process is to spray gloss varnish to hide the carrier film, apply transfers and then coat with another layer of varnish to seal in the transfers, but I'm wondering if the gloss coat is needed given the factory smooth paint finish and I'm also slightly nervous about spraying a sealing coat of varnish all over a £500 model and so I'm wondering if there is any other method people are using?

     

    Thanks, Phil 

  11. 28 minutes ago, Peter Kazmierczak said:

    Some of us remember the Jouef Mk3s.............

    I was thinking that last night! As a small lad they were the bees knees as far as I was concerned - along with the Jouef class 40 - the 40 even had lights which for a 1970s school boy was serious technology! 

    • Agree 2
  12. Thanks so much guys - all very helpful information. I've had a closer look at what I have - its a triple pack (R4676) and it looks like the TSO is Hornby which helpfully has the buffers that can be pushed out, but the TGS and TRSB look to be Lima in origin - buffers moulded in place and the glazing and a few other areas look less refined. Am I right in thinking that there has never been a OO gauge blue-grey MK3 released that comes without buffers?  

  13. I hope this hasn't been discussed before (I've searched & can't see anything) but I've bought some Hornby MK3s in blue grey livery with the Inter City 125 branding on the sides, but they have buffers fitted & of course the HST MK3s didn't have buffers. 

     

    My question is, is it simply a case of cutting the buffers off and 'making good' or is there more complex surgery needed to the bufferbeam area make them look like HST MK3s?

     

    Also, given that these HST MK3s are currently not produced in blue-grey by Hornby, if I were to buy, for example, an Oxford rail blue-grey buffered MK3, could I simply chop the buffers off and re-decal with the IC125 branding and re-number to make an HST MK3, or am I being naively optimistic?!  

  14. 40 minutes ago, mac1960 said:

    Phil

    Just remembered there was a British Waterways work barge tied up just inside the tunnel gates, within the tunnel. It was open topped with no cabin or engine and was about a foot high above the water level. I guess it was for inspections as all the other locks were cascaded at the time. Not sure you will even want to model it, and the gates you have on the model looking at the photos look ok to me as they are, just need closing.

    All the best.

    Mac

    Thanks very much indeed Mac this is really useful info (along with your previous post) - I will do some digging to see if I can find any images for the period in question and will update here when the rebuild of that part of the layout starts - the layout is in the garage at present after a house move but I'm hoping in the next few months I can dust it down and crack on! 

  15. 26 minutes ago, mac1960 said:

    Phil

    I noticed you ran a Blue Pullman saying you like the model but that it was unlikely to have run in the area. I have just been reading a book about the LNWR Lines in Yorkshire of which Standedge is the main one. You may like to know that a Blue Pullman did indeed run over Stanedge from Reddish to Leeds for some promotional work in 1967 but did not return this way. So a little before your modelling period but surprisingly it did happen. 

    Hi Mac1960 thanks so much for your messages and kind words! This is actually good news, as I was never happy with the canal boat emerging from the tunnel (it was the first scenic work I did when building the layout) so if I can legitimately close off the tunnel and remove the boats then that's a job that will make me feel a whole lot better about the front of the layout! Because the resin for the water is poured into a self contained sealed 'unit' this is less drastic than it may seem. If you have any photos of the gates that closed the tunnel off and any images of that area in the BR blue era I would be very grateful as it would be good to get it as close to period correct as possible and thanks so much for that really useful info. Great news about the Blue Pullman too! Its such a cracking model that I cant bear to part with it and now I can run it knowing that its not just modeller's licence at work - provided I run it in the right direction! One day I may move to the Slaithwaite/Marsden area - that's a bit of a long held dream for me, but alas not one that is going to come true any time soon, so I'm envious that you live in such a beautiful location!

  16. 1 hour ago, delticfan said:

    Thanks for that, it’s just I do loads of acrylics and lacquers but enamels sound pretty much sounds similar. I’ll try on plastikard first. I’m spray too close lol but it does help, cheers.

    My apologies - I thought you were starting out - sorry. 

  17. 8 minutes ago, delticfan said:

    Sorry to stray off topic but I’ve just got some railmatch enamels, what ratio of thinners to paint do you use, was going to try 50/50 sprayed at 15psi to start with, I’m using a 0.35 Iwata.

    I'm not an expert (far more experienced people on here, some of whom respray for a living) but I spray at about 12psi with a 0.4 Harder and Steenbeck Evolution and I have never measured amount/ratio of thinners to paint, but follow the advice in George Dent's book - if it drips off the stirrer without 'encouragement' (as opposed to cascading off because its too thin) then that's about right. The usual advice is the consistency of milk, but I go a bit thinner than that (plus it depends what sort of milk you drink and are comparing your thinned paint to!).

     

    Also critical to do many light coats and to not spray from too far away - which was my biggest mistake when starting out and gives rise to a rough finish because the paint dries before it hits the model.  The other bit of advice I had to learn the hard way is to never, ever rush anything when airbrushing. 

     

    Hope that helps. 

  18. 1 hour ago, delticfan said:

    Thanks how strong? Have heard 99.9% can damage plastic, and what make of acrylic or lacquer paint would you suggest for br blue and warning panel yellow? I’m an aircraft modeller usually and airbrush a lot using mr hobby paints.

    I've stripped several Heljan O gauge models with IPA - 99.9% but diluted to about 90% - not accurately diluted though, just a splosh of water. Not had any problems. Usually leave it to soak for 24 hours and then attack with a toothbrush - just don't forget how flammable this stuff is though!! I spray using Railmatch enamels - good match for Heljan colours, but mainly because decanting from their glass bottles is less messy than decanting from tinlets!

  19. Can't see the O gauge Deltic listed which I need spares for - hopefully this may appear at some stage? I'm after cant rail grilles and centre/top front end headcode bracket if anyone knows anywhere else that may have these? Unlikely I guess, but given that the Deltic has been re-released I'm moderately hopeful! 

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