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philiprporter

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Posts posted by philiprporter

  1. 1 minute ago, cravensdmufan said:

    Sometimes easy, but usually tricky!  Whatever method is used removal always leaves a shiny patch.  So then you have to spray it with a matt or satin varnish to cure that. Grrrr.

     

    In the past when I've done renumbering etc I usually wait for a good long time to ensure a loco is mechanically fault free before starting work to preserve the manufacturers warranty. But that's my choice to renumber.

     

    But glaring livery errors are a different matter. I don't fancy tackling this one actually so I'll be giving it a miss.  Which is a shame as I really like 60s.

     

    Another sale lost - sorry Hornby - you really must get get the basic livery right, colour shades and decals.

    Yes that's my fear - normally I wouldn't have an issue removing a number or nameplate or even something larger and re-applying and re-spraying where needed, but the proximity of the cant rail strip to the area needing decal removal means I also don't fancy this job. A bit gutted as I've wanted a bog standard triple grey 60 for ages - I'm hoping Hornby may rectify this on subsequent batches? Having said this, I'm assuming they are aware of the error? May try and mention it at Warley and hopefully not cause offence. 

    • Like 1
  2. I'm wondering how easy it would be to remove the logo using the normal meths or t-cut on a cotton bud method given the proximity to the orange cant rail stripe? I wouldn't fancy my chances-and redoing a cant rail stripe and making it look good is always challenging-at least for someone of my skill level! 

  3. Goodness me what a howler. Looks like the whole logo has been applied too high up the bodyside - from the photos I've seen of the real thing, the base of the solid blue square should be aligned with the divide between the two shades of grey - its well above it on the model. I was debating whether to buy this having been waiting for it for a while - not so sure now and removing a decal that size and re-applying could be fun and games. 

    • Agree 1
  4. Re-releasing some of their iconic models with new tooling would be wonderful - the 81 and APT would be fantastic, the latter may appeal to old and young and given the success of the 87 and the Bachmann 85 and 90 am I dreaming that AC motive power might be on the 'up' in terms of manufacturer interest? 

    • Agree 3
  5. On 16/07/2019 at 20:44, simon b said:

    Hi Phil. The tiling slip joins up to normal code 75 without a problem, there is a slight difference in rail height but it isnt that noticeable. The sleeper spacing is what gives the game away. I have got the complete track layout down and wired on a 6x2ft board with a view to building something that loosely represented the milk dock area in the mid 80's. It is quite fun to operate but is on the back burner whilst I complete some other projects.

     

     

    Many thanks Simon - I ordered one and it arrived yesterday - very impressive! Do you have any experience of fitting point motors to Tillig points? They flex rather than pivot and I'm not sure what motor is best? I'm assuming a solenoid type is not a good idea?!  

  6. 14 hours ago, Crompton Power said:

    Hi,

    I did ask about chargeback, told that chargeback is only valid up to 6 months. Is this what others are being told? 

    Amex are usually really good and have been on previous occasions for other issues. The guy explained that PayPal breaks the 3 person chain that section75 relies on, card company, seller and card holder. He also explained that payment via Stripe, which is also an intermediary payment facilitator is not covered by section75. You often don't know that the payment is via Stripe when a transactions is made. One to watch out for if you can with your online purchases.

    I'm not sure of the time limits, but it was either on the PayPal website or the Barclaycard website that it mentioned the time limit for chargebacks was 120 days, but that this could be up to 580 days (that figure is from memory so I may not be 100% correct as I am away from the desk at present).

     

    Have a look at the useful Barclaycard sire (https://www.barclaycard.co.uk/personal/help-and-support/know-your-rights) and scroll down to chargebacks and look at the example of Hassan - 11 months time scale. I made the point in my communications with Barclaycard that I was expecting the APT by the end of this year (not unreasonable given the repeated assurances from DJ - although now we know this was never going to have happened) and that we only found out about the liquidation of the company a few weeks ago, so in terms of time limits, the clock started ticking then as far as I am concerned - that's just my view of course, not necessarily a legal reality.

     

    As I said earlier though, I am not holding my breath on actually getting the refund in the long run - it has been credited to my account (Barclaycard paid via PayPal), but 'pending further investigation'. I think the most important thing needed is evidence from the liquidators, so anyone who hasn't registered with them and is pursuing claim needs to do that - well covered here and on the other DJ thread concerning this issue. 

    • Like 2
  7. 5 hours ago, Crompton Power said:

    Hi folks,

    I'm not having much success in claiming my Class 92 deposit back. American Express have put a Section 75 claim in for me but the chap I spoke to says chance of a refund is low as my payment was via PayPal.

    Has anyone else had a refund where a payment has gone via PayPal?

     

    Regards,

     

    Keith. 

    Hi Keith - I paid via PayPal using a Barclaycard but when I wrote the letter to them, I made it clear that my claim was not eligible for a section 75 claim (because I paid via PayPal) and so I wanted to initiate a chargeback. If you look at the Barclaycard website you can see some useful guides as to the differences between a section 75 claim (not covered if you paid by PayPal) and a chargeback (potentially covered if paid via PayPal). I was refunded my APT deposit by Barclaycard, but this is 'pending further investigation' so it remains to be seen whether that 'investigation' will end in Barclaycard asking me to pay back the refund - we shall see.  

    • Like 1
  8. I hope this may help those who, like me, paid on credit card via PayPal. I've had the APT deposit refunded after sending in the forms for a chargeback (as opposed to a section 75 claim) with all the paperwork/evidence I could lay my hands on, plus a detailed letter.

     

    This was a platinum Visa card so I don't know if being 'Platinum' makes any difference to anything, but hopefully this means that others who used PayPal and paid via a credit card may receive refunds.

     

    At the time I ordered, I believe I am correct in saying that PayPal was the only payment option, but I was not one of those who was randomly refunded when PayPal insisted funds were repaid and therefore I could not then repay the deposit with a credit card (which would have then allowed me a straight section 75 claim). Anyway, I hope this helps. 

    • Informative/Useful 5
  9. 1 hour ago, 9FEd said:

    I also saw this in MR and came on here to see if I could see a bit more of the layout - absolutely brilliant, really inspirational work in the space and further encourages me to try something similar where I can run trains in a Pennine/Peaks landscape. So much so that I built a basic baseboard last night after work! I'll be very happy if I get anywhere close to this. 

    Thank you so much for your kind comments which are much appreciated. I started with chopping up foamboard on the kitchen floor (the only flat surface big enough!) and never thought I would get anywhere close to a finished layout so I really hope you can do the same and end up with a Pennine layout to enjoy! Do keep us updated how you get on and best of luck!

  10. Having said all that Andrew now I'm wracking my brain and poor memory, I'm wondering if I cut down the Peco curved girder sections to make them flat topped. I say this because I don't think the Wills vari-girder is available in n-gauge, but I did also make use of OO gauge bits as they just looked right (the embossed Plasticard on all the stone walls is OO gauge as the n-gauge sheets just didn't look right).

     

    I'll get the layout set up again in a couple of weeks once I've moved and hopefully report back with a definitive answer!

    Thanks, Phil.

  11. 4 minutes ago, corkscorpion said:

    Hi Philip,

     

    I saw your layout in Model Rail and was prompted to look on here for the 'in progress' shots. Agree with others that it's a wonderful layout - really inspirational stuff and encouragement for me to get back into the loft and working on my n gauge piece of Scotland.

     

    Out of interest, can you recall where you sourced your plate girder bridge sides when you were building the layout? I recognise the curved-top Peco ones you have used between the tracks, but what about the 'straight' versions seen here in the foreground and on the overflow as it crosses the railway? I've been searching unsuccessfully for something similar...

     

    Thanks

     

    Andrew

     

    Hi Andrew thank you so much for your kind comments and I'm really glad that the layout has provided encouragement to a fellow modeller, as it was seeing the work of Graham Hedges that inspired me to build my first complete layout (I'd dabbled in OO previously with limited progress!).

     

    I'm 99.9% sure the bridge plates on the overflow and the canal bridge are from Wills vari-girder packs. The overflow plates were cut down and hacked about and I think the canal bridge ones may have been trimmed too, but unfortunately the layout is in storage at the moment as I'm moving house so can't check to be 100% sure, but I hope this helps in the meantime?

     

    Best wishes, Phil

  12. Just now, Amand said:

    Previous page, 4th from bottom posting. Some information may be available from Companies House. Usually the info is free to download. It may or may not show why DJ Models had to fold.

    OK that's great thanks for helping me! 

  13. OK now I'm really baffled?! I'm probably being very dim, but what has Winnie the Pooh got to do with anything and why are the next few days of importance? Ignore me if I am missing something very obvious here! 

    • Agree 2
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  14. 3 hours ago, fezza said:

    Yes several on sale at Quorn yesterday but I wasn't tempted. In a way I hope they don't sell - it might make manufacturers realise they can't turn out stuff like this these days and expect to shift it. 

     

    I love almost everything else Dapol have done but this is very disappointing in the flesh and I don't think you can do much to improve it as the basic shape is wrong. 

    Likewise I had another look at the several that were on sale at Quorn yesterday at good prices, to see if I could convince myself - but no, they just look too wrong. 

    • Agree 1
  15. 13 hours ago, clogger said:

    Having also just seen this in the magazine, I had to write and say that the layout ticked all the boxes for me.

    Thank you so much for these kind words. Chris Nevard and the team at Model Rail did an amazing job and I'm blown away by the quality of the photos and the article in general!

    • Like 1
  16. 13 hours ago, Ben A said:

    Hi Philip,

     

    Just seen the article - the layout looks fantastic.  Great work!

     

    Cheers

     

    Ben A.

    Thank you so much Ben and also for your kind words of encouragement throughout which have helped me get the layout over the line and more or less finished. 

    Best wishes, Phil 

    • Thanks 1
  17. 1 hour ago, John ks said:

    Phil

    Take out the 4 screws that hold the decoder panel Blue arrow

    There are 2 screws that are accessed by rotating the bogies(diagonally opposite each other) Red Arrow

     

    1742338927_class90screw.jpg.b0e7cfaa794928a5e0c1f718a37be5e6.jpg

     

    There 2 more screws that are under the outer end of the bogie

     

    class90005.jpg.eab68238d50085bed684b4928cba0e9b.jpg

     

    With your fingernails or similar gently spread the body & the chassis should come out fairly easily

    When you lift the body off the chassis there are 4 leads from the body to the circuit board, unplug these (Front cab lights ,servo, speaker, rear cab lights) & the body complete with servo will be separate from the chassis

     

    Hope this helps

    John

    Thats brilliant John thank you so much!

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