Chrislock

Ah yes I see it now it is clear one of the photos and I wondered why the Lenz would have a brown wire when none of my CT decoders do! Many thanks for spotting it because I really missed it somehow, and I do not want to risk damaging the Terrier motor - which has happened to some chap in another thread. Topic duly closed. Thanks again.

Greetings. I am about to tackle the DCCing of a Dapol N gauge Terrier. I have found a clear set of pictorial instructions on the pdf ( link below), but one thing puzzles me: Because of the 9v motor, it is wise to retain the small resistor board. In the instructions, the guy connects the orange wire to this, which he then sticks to the decoder chip with tape. He then solders red and black to pickups as normal, but with brown and grey to the motor. Surely the resistor board needs an output to the motor, otherwise it is not in series? http://www.ness-st.co.uk/images/Dapol/terrier-dcc-instructions.pdf Any knowledge gratefully received! Cheers Chris

Hi Argos. Neat work. How do you intend controlling your points?

As the man says, diversionary and no more! This was built primarily to prove to Paul that he could have a Swiss mountain railway without spending 2 grand on a hrf model... To be honest it could do with more detail- pipes, plough etc and if I was doing this again I would leave a door open and stand a driver in it. The pantograph is a nice piece of engineering though, especially for 7 quid.

Greetings. Since a memorable holiday in Switzerland a few years ago I have been intrigued by the narrow gauge railways of the WAB and SPB. Alas the available RTR such as hrf are astronomically priced, though superb model. I have been discussing various possibilities with a friend Paul, who is a big fan of the WAB in particular and one way of creating a rack system for a reasonable figure is to adapt the Fleishmann N gauge system to HOe. The subject of how to recreate a little He2/2 has been a frequent topic between us. And so I decided to try scratchbuilding a body from plasticard. The plan was that the body would slip over the fleischmann rack loco, the compromise being that it is a 3/3 not a2/2! However once the skirts and bits were added we thoight it would be hardly noticeable. Here is my first attempt: Regards Chris

Yes that is some doing to set up an exhibition like that. I hope it is very successful for you.

Stunning Mikkel. Welcome back!

Just added a new photo to above, as didn't warrant a new thread... I am liking the 3 link/ screwlink couplings, and have just made a basic shunting hook to facilitate coupling and uncoupling. I have also been reading an rmweb article about adapting the Ratio Midland signal box kit with etched window frames and Smiths etched levers. I have duly ordered all three items. My mind is beginning to turn to the sort of layout which would suit this stock. I am looking at examples of urban and rural settings, and to be honest I like both, unfortunately I will be looking at a micro-layout so the option of having both is not a realistic option. I am toying with the idea of a part-layout in the mode of Mikel's The Bay v a shunting plank style of layout. Plenty of time to decide, as I first assemble the rolling stock and some typical structural elements.

.. to which I've replied.

Greetings. I have now completed the Ratio clerestory coach, bar some more screw links which I am waiting for from Smith's. I looked at the transfers available from Fox, and concluded that I was happy to paint the lining on by hand once again, in the spirit of keeping costs down for this project. I think the result is ok - maybe i should have bought some numbers - but in the end both coaches create the right impression when attached behind the engine. I hadn't ctually realised the size difference between the suburban and clerestory stock - but the oddness is pretty Midland really. My second Ratio suburban brake arrived today, but as I only intended 2 coach handling there is no rush to complete this one. I will be interested to see in the box how the mouldings compare to the older ones. Certainly the packaging is different. Next up are the two wagon kits still remaining to build. Cheers Chris

It wasn't a difficult build though was it? How does yours run? Mine is not exactly smooth and quiet. I found the position of the motor quite critical. I have also removed the lead from between the driving wheels as it doesnt seem to be needed.

I think paint and a brush will have to do on this occasion. I have only evrr dipped 2mm wheels before which has bren Well washed afterwards, though Im sure I've heard folk say thry brush it on.

Last night I stumbled across this thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/63247-shock-horror-wf-does-midland/ which was an interesting read, being able to compare my experience of the Ratio 2-4-0 with someone who appears to be a more experienced kit builder in 4mm. I think the biggest difference is the quality of finish on his wheels, which has made me wonder - should I paint mine, or daub on blacking solution? On another tack, the clerestory lavatory third is coming along, the sides being sprayed and windows glazed; the ends and solebars painted black and the roof and detail added but not painted as yet. I have also to fit some couplings and obviously the bogies. I have to say I like these kits, and have ordered a suburban brake third from the Gas Cupboard, for the princely sum of £13.75+ PP. BFN Chris

This afternoon my LMS transfers arrived from Fox, so I decided to continue my research for a suitable prototype 2-4-0 in my books. I came across a photograph of an identical locomotive, photographed at Peterborough Kettering in 1933 and chalked "condemned". Perfect. I can now pretend that it was saved and reassigned for use on a local branch line somewhere in the Midlands area. And so my model has become LMS No137. I found some old 2mm scale LMS numbers for the smokebox door - a good job as none were included. Tomorrow a touch of purity seal to make sure the transfers stay put ( though I always add a little PVA to the water, which helps); and then I can consider how best to weather this to make it look a tad sorry for itself... (This photo reminds me I need to go back and revisit the paintwork on those drivers!) Last night I started to construct the Ratio clerestory coach. This is the progress - I just primed the sides earlier this evening. Notice the roof, which is just resting in place, is quite bowed. This has been a feature of the coaches built so far, and requires it to be held in place while the glue sets. Cheers Chris

Julia, nice to see you resolved the problems and that the project is coming together. Any plans for a little layout for this...?! Chris

I believe he fluffy object is one of several items the signalman has to distract Whining toddlers whole parents bring them along. I was tempted to say What a great view from the signalbox Windows but then....!!! Pete I assume you mean the second pic- I am not absolutely convinced that the engine wasn't just parked in that siding and not to do with the wagons at all! The 2-4-0 does look good though pulling freight or passenger stock, So.it'll do me.

The West I would likely prefer the green, chock and cream... Did another railway co./designer have one of their locos Entered into an exhibition as a design classic though, ref Johnson Spinner at Paris Exhibition?

Chaps, I didnt this thread to descend into disputes over form and style! I am fond of some early western locos - Dean goods, Panniers , City class for instance and no doubt if Id grown up in

I think what made Midland design special was Johnson's rebuilding of Matthew Kirtley's work. And then of course there is the livery ... Funnilly enough I didn't want this particular engine in Lake.

I've just been trying to finish off the carriage by adding torpedo vents to the roof. Unfortunately the flash was very bad around these mouldings and I've ended up with some half vents... I havebeen browsing the books I have for evidence of these locos hauling freight in their later years. I have only uncovered this, an 800 class though, in charge of a freight near Leicester in the 20s: Also this one: These will have to serve as a precedent! Here is my class 179 posed with a short freight... I have been perusing my Midland Locos Volume 2 looking at the style of LMS graphics, as I am not keen on the yellow/red/gold style. Clearlya number of engines of the late 20s early 30s seem to have the simple straw insignia, which suits me just fine, so these have duly been ordered from Fox, who from what I can see, make the best transfers. Finally, last weekend I jumped on a train down to St Albans as it was open day at the reconstructed Midland box. Well worth an hour of my time and to get the view along the mainline. Apologies for the quality of phone pics: Chris .

Hi Mikkel. Well I've not been busting a gut over that time, it's largely down to the ease and speed of modelling with plastic kits as opposed to soldered brass... Johnson engines were really very aesthetically pleasing designs, the 179,800 and 156 class of express 2-4-0s being one of the finest in my opinion. I'm not sure that even GWR locos have that natural balance of features, but the again I'm biased!

Hi Mark. I'm going to apply LMS decals and then dirty it a bit. Given that the 2-4-0 was built as a passenger/ express engine and as far as I can tell rarely if ever pulled freight, I need the excuse of a forgotten bywater in the1930s. Maybe someone could prove me wrong with a photo!

Greetings The rolling stock built so far, in the past 3 weeks: The lining of the coach was tricky, but I wanted to do it by hand, rather than pay out substantially for any more Fox transfers. Note the crew on the loco ( well, you can see the fireman at least). These came incuded in the Ratio 2-4-0 kit. I have still to put together a 48' clerestory, a 48' suburban brake and 2 more wagons. I need to supplement the goods stock with one or two items, but these are not urgent and can wait until I've decided what an exchange siding is for! Enjoy your weekend folks. Regards, Chris

Hi. Yes I thought about the coal but rather absently glued in the tender top which means I risk damaging it when drilling plastic coal out. I am going to take m scalpel to the dummy coal first and then try painting in gloss and Matt to see what happens, first.