flubrush

I've also been printing small parts to mass produce wagon wheels.  I use a Shuffle which is very similar to the Photon.

This is an early stage using Phrozen Grey ABS resin.  The tyres are turned steel.

I'm making the centres an easy fit in the tyres and retaining them using cyanoacrylate glue.    I've designed the spoke centre with raised lands to give registration which also allows clearance for the adhesive.

A selection of wheels assembled using the Phrozen Grey,  and the Phrozen Rock Black resin.

...and the latest test with split spoke centres using the black resin.

I am also printing the the centres directly on the plate.

...and I have reduced the start layers to two instead of six and they are still staying firmly in place.   The Stanley blade is my removal tool of choice. :-)

The remarkable factor is the accuracy of the prints.  I had expected to have to print the centres with no axle hole and to have to produce this in a lathe setup.  But I tried printing the axle hole and reaming this out to be a push fit on the 2mm axles.  I use a 2mm hand reamer and restrict its depth of cut to leave a small taper to give a press fit.   This reaming can be done in a drill press.   All construction can be done in a drill press so that everything is assembled square.    I've checked the runout on the samples I have done so far and they average 0.002" - 0.003" TIR which is comparable to similar products from good suppliers.

I can pack 32 prints on a plate and the prints take about twenty minutes (58 x 50micron layers) so pretty close to mass production for resin printing. :-)

S scale. :-)

Jim.

2 hours ago, njee20 said:

Yes, given their increasing ubiquity I'm sure if people needed skin grafts under general anaesthetic from what sounds like a small splash of resin we'd be hearing a lot more about it! Obviously I don't doubt the story above, and I'm not condoning reckless handling of chemicals, but that has to be an unusual experience.

I get a reaction when Phrozen Grey resin gets on more tender areas of skin - i.e. not hardened areas like palms of hands.   I wondered why my left wrist was inflamed and very itchy when I started working with the printer until it dawned on me that when I was pulling the glove off my left hand,  resin on the right hand glove's finger tips was being transferred to the skin on my left wrist and under my watch strap.  I now dunk my gloved fingers in IPA and clean the resin off before removing the gloves.

Jim.

6 hours ago, 08221 said:

 

Second the pond liner suggestion. I covered  my shed roof with it 16 years ago having seen the idea on a American website.

 

Still as dry as anything and no more work than just putting felt on.

I also agree with using pond liner - EPDM.  I covered the flat roof of my garage/workshop with pond liner about nine years ago and it is still in excellent condition with no leaks at all.   One sheet covered the complete roof,  so no joints to worry about.   The single sheet was laid on a thin foam underlay with no gluing,  and it is ballasted with a dozen small paving slabs.

If you Google for "EPDM Roof Covering" you shoudl get a lot of hits for suppliers and methods.

Jim.

I'm doing a composite chassis in 1:32 scale for a Calecdonian 782 class pug with nickel silver plates and resin printed spacers and horn guides so far.  Here are the frames so far

...and a screen shot of the Fusion 360 drawing showing the firebox acting as another frame spacer.

There will be a motion plate and inside motion.

I'm also aiming to do something similar in S scale.

It's working well so far with the 1:32 chassis and the resin prints are coming out quite accurate.   I'm aiming to have brass axleboxes working directly in the hornguides.  The two spacers p[rinted so far have been printed directly on the printer's plate with no raft and supports - this to get a flat and square top to the parts.  Originally printing on supports gave some warpage and needed a lot of cleaning up.   The pickup method will be split axles with all metal wheels so insulated spacerxs are ideal.   Work is held up at the moment awaiting the delivery of an ABC gearbox and motor.

I use a Shuffle,  but it's pretty similar to the Photon so maybe I can butt in on this thread. :-)

Jim.

6 minutes ago, ScottW said:

 

Evergreen don't produce 5thou Microstrip so I cut strips to the required width from a sheet,

I cut strips of styrene using a balsa cutter like this :-

https://www.conrad.com/p/balsa-cutter-kavan-229458?insert=EG&awc=5769_1563300121_3ce44220456682a9337508d778f9499e&utm_source=affiliate_aw&utm_medium=global_aw&utm_campaign=global&utm_banner=global&WT.mc=affiliate_aw_global

I can get strips all the same width which can be important with narrow strips where slight variations can stick out like a sore thumb.   I was pointed in the direction of this tool by a friend who was an aeromodeller many years ago.

For very thin sheet like 5 thou or 10 thou,  I butt the sheet up flush with the edge of my cutting board and run the cutter down the side of the board.   This helps to stop the sheet buckling under the cutter.

Jim.

1 hour ago, Regularity said:

Lovely stuff, Scott.

 

I have always struggled with 5 thou: which brand are you using?

I've used the Evergreen 5 thou which I've found OK.   I found the 5 thou Plastikard that Slaters sold was rubbish - I note they don't sell it any more. :-)

Jim.

3 hours ago, Alan_LSWR said:

Excellent work there Mike. What software did you use to get those complex curves where the dome and chimney meet the boiler?

 

I've used Fusion 360 and the methods shown in this thread from a few years ago

Jim.

11 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

I managed to get some on my hands early on  and came up in an incredibly  itchy red rash between my fingers which developed into something akin to bad sunburn over the next couple of days.

.Now I take the gloves thing very seriously

I got a similar reaction under my watch on my left wrist.  I couldn't work out how that happened until it dawned on me that the resin had probably come from my right gloved finger tips when pulling the gloves off.   I now try to rinse my right finger tips before glove removal.

Jim.

19 hours ago, Ravenser said:

 

 My casual outside impression of WT is - my first interests lie within the original ER , and the GW is probably the Grouping company I have least interest in, serving the area of the country with which I have least connection. So a Western-focussed forum isn't a positive to me. It also seems to pride itself on a very austere ethos where anything outside constructional detail is not to be discussed - I have interests that are not strictly confined to the soldering iron, the file and the solvent brush, and a forum where the monitors jump on anyone who strays from the beaten path to look at the flowers in the verge and listen to the birds in the hedgerows is not for me . I'd be in trouble for straying very fast . I have a sense that lines have been drawn, quite tightly , and they are not to be crossed. 

 

 

That may have been the case in its early days when it was started up to cater for modellers interested in Western Region hydraulic locomotives - hence its title - but is definitley no loinger the case these days.   The most popular scale featured is probably 7mm scale,  but all other scales are featured,  and there is no strong GWR bias these days.

Jim.

You will be wanting a Cleminson etch,  no doubt. :-)

Jim.

He will be missed.  I have followed his contributions to RMWEB over the years with great interest and we entered into an email exchange some years ago about Kadee couplers and various magnets were exchanged between us for experimentation.   I would like to have met him if only to confirm that he was as good a person as his online writing inferred.

Jim.

I did manage to get down from Scotland and make a visit when the shop was in Chapel Market.  I can't remember much detail at this remove but I do remember that it was interesting. :-)   My interest in US railroads had started with Bill Eaglesham's shop in Cumbernauld and Bernie Victors was the other source of interesting North American products.  I've still got the Model Railroader Steam Loco Cyclopedia which I bought then and I also remember buying an Athearn caboose and marvelling at the better quality when compared to UK products of the period.   The caboose has long gone. :-) 

Jim.

59 minutes ago, JohnGi said:

 

Yes, the similarity with Draftsight makes it an easy transition.

 

I did a fair bit of drawing using it yesterday and it worked very well.  There are some differences between it and Draftsight and ACADLT and some of them might just be down to me not quite setting the options properly - i.e. I use right click as ENTER and I've not quite got NanoCAD to reproduce how LT does it.  NanoCAD even comes up with exactly the same error as LT (and the same wording in the error message :-) ) when trying to join a spline into a polyline. :-)

I'm aiming to do more artwork for etching in a few weeks time so I can give it a good test on filling complex drawings.  I found that there were some small differences between LT and Draftsight in how they worked out what to fill and LT was usually better.

Jim.

I downloaded a copy of NanoCAD referred to earlier in this thread and that seems to work well and is very similar to AutoCAD LT and Draftsight.  I seem to have downloaded a completely free copy and not the limited offer free copy and I'm not exactly sure how I did that. :-)   I'll keep working with it and see if it times out at the end of the month.   But I would be prepared to pay about £150 for a non-subscription copy since it is,  to all intents and purposes,  AutoCAD LT under another name.

Jim.

I did the same for a member of another forum - Gauge 3 Mansell disks for wagon wheels for an early wagon.   Printed at 30 degrees and 30 micron layers using Phrozen Gray

Mike,

I'm following this with interest.  I recently got a Phrozen Shuffle - very similar to your Photon - and have been starting to produce some worthwhile parts.  My main fight has been getting to grips with Fusion 360 and I'm now getting there.  My experiences with printing are much the same as you,  basically finding out the best orientation for parts and the placement of supports.

Your description of your workflow in your previous message has been a help.  I was getting annoyed at setting up sets of small parts in the slicer to print off and having to set up orientation and supports all over again.  I'm using Chitubox to do the slicing and supports and I noted that I could sometimes get duplicate files on screen.  So I've just done a test saving individual parts with their preferred orientation and support layout as separate Chitubox project files.  These project files can all be called up together and duplicated and placed to make up a composite slicer file.  So thanks for the nudge to get the brain cells working.   My only worry might be that as Chitubox is apparently under continuous development,  that someone might deem this facility a bug and I lose it in future versions. :-)

Jim.

3 hours ago, garethashenden said:

 

There is an issue with th bottom of the wall curving up, I probably need to revisit exactly where the supports are, and my painting leaves something to be desired, but otherwise I’m pleased with how it’s come out.

That looks like the support was only on the left bottom corner of the buttress.  I'm working with ChituBox and I'm finding out that its automatic placements can be problematic and requires a good inspection before printing.  I have been running into problems like that recently and it's annoying to find out the problem after a print time of several hours. :-)

Jim.

11 hours ago, JCL said:

 

Out of interest, is anyone else using Blender, or are you using other software to build model files?

 

Fusion 360 and now getting my brain round it.  Its parametric features certainly make tweaking a model very easy but it has taken a while to understand exactly how they work.

Jim.

2 hours ago, Corbs said:

 

1) Have you exceeded your limit for custom streams? How many are on your list under 'custom streams' in the drop-down? In my screenshot below I have one - 'T H I C C Threads'

 

 

2) Did you set the stream you wanted to 'default' by clicking the little arrow next to the stream name so it turns green? This makes the stream appear at the top right of the website.

 

3) 'Save as new stream' should be next to the stream options when you fiddle around with them.

 

 

 

1.  There's a limit?   When I originally was digging around and trying things out I managed to generate four custom streams.  I've tried to find a way to erase three of them but no luck so far.   the reason for generating four was that there was no indicator that the version had been saved.    I only found out when I investigated the "Content Types".

2.  Can't find an arrow next to the stream.

3. "Save as new stream" does not now appear - it did originally - might be as a result of a limit (See. 1)

It looks to me as though this software has been written to suit pads and phones and those of us dinosaurs who still use desktops will have to learn a new way of interfacting with software. 

I also note another recent message with the same original fault that I found and it looks as though developers will have to pay more attention to different browser types - pretty well as it was in the early 90s when there were differences between Netscape and Internet Explorer, and developers had to test out  on both before releasing web sites.

Jim.

3 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

 

For the browser Back button to work, you must have actually clicked on the page at the position you want to jump back to. Simply scrolling down to a position doesn't work. You don't have to click on anything in particular, just a bit of blank space will do.

 

Martin,

I would have thought that clicking on the round or star shaped icon to go to the first new message would have done that.

Jim.

3 hours ago, Corbs said:

But did you save it as a custom stream and then set as default stream?

I tried several times but seemed to have lost the ability to save a custom stream.   I had earlier saved a custom "new since last visit" activity so I knew it was possible,  but couldn't find the button,  or whatever,  this time round.   No worries,  I can live without it.

Jim

38 minutes ago, DaveF said:

If you look in, say, Unread Content you should see, third one along, Read statues, the down arrow to the right gives various options which you can select and save.

 

 

 

David

 David,

I've tried ticking and unticking all the options under "Read Status",  but each time Back Arrow goes to top of the list.

I'll stick with Chrome for RMWEB - it's easier. :-)

Now back to Fusion 360 for some light relief. :-)

Jim.

33 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Just want to check - have you got 'read status' set to 'everything' in your custom activity feed?

 

This prevents topics disappearing from the list when you have read them.

I've had a dig around all the menus I can find and I haven't hit anything that hints at "Read Status" yet.

Jim.

2 hours ago, eastwestdivide said:

flubrush Jim, does the same thing happen if you open the thread in a new tab (right-click - open in new tab)? That might be a solution for preventing the list from jumping around.

I'll have to try later.  This visit is using Chrome and if I go over to Firefox just now I won't have a longish "new post" list to try. :-)

Jim.

I've now got the new software set up to show me a "new from last visit" list using a URL.  But there is an annoyance in Firefox.  If I access a thread from the list,  read the new messages,  then hit the back arrow to go back to the list,  I'm taken back to the head of the list.  Then I have to scroll back down the list to try and find where I was.   In the old software,  a read thread was still in the list but greyed and we also had the list in pages as well,  so I could find where I was in a list.  But in this new version,  the thread entry is deleted once you have read it and I am left having to start at the top of the list again and try and find out where I had got to. :-)    When I back arrow out of a thread,  for a fraction of a second I can see that I am returned to my position in the list,  then I'm set back to the top of the list.   I've also used Chrome to do the same thing and it does not jump back to the top of the list.

Jim

PS and I don't like this font - I keep thinking I haven't capitalised my name. :-)