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aussiebrfan

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  1. First of the lined black ones is in captivity in Western Australia! Thanks to Craig at Hobbytec Myaree for a good deal on this example,  I only went in for some Tamiya Varnish!

    attachicon.gifH class 001.JPG

    attachicon.gifH class 002.JPG

    attachicon.gifH class 003.JPG

    attachicon.gifH class 004.JPG

    attachicon.gifH class 005.JPG

    All detailing parts added, except the extra buffer beam pipes for P/P working as they interefere with the tension lock couplings. Settled down nice and quietly on the rolling road. A very nice model model. well done again Hornby!!

     

    Cheers from Oz,

    Peter C.

     

    Wow that is some expensive varnish!!!   :O

  2. The thing that those who end up getting so enraged that threads end up getting locked ought to realise is that the rest of forum is laughing at the ludicrous-ness of it all.

     

    A bit like those annoying TV programmes that have now spawned mirror 'discussion' shows (backstage at Strictly Z-Factor Got No Talent), other threads delight in discussing how ridiculous it all is ('It's all kicking off on the Pecoboo thread again', etc). Heads are shaken in disbelief, everyone reminds themselves that this is really just supposed to be a hobby, folks predict how long it will be before the thread gets locked, and so on.

     

    Me? I'm enjoying using the Peco Streamline track range as it is. The new stuff is a bonus. Life's too short.

     

    attachicon.gifWP_20171022_10_55_00_Pro.jpg

     

     

    Love your signals. They look awesome!

    Regards G.

  3. I must confess, I was fed up with the comments on the other two threads.

     

    Is there any news as to when the points might be in the shops?

     

    Kind regards,

     

    Nick.

     

    They are in Oz already!

    Looked at and handled a pair of points at the BRMA ( British Railway Modellers of Australia) National Convention in Melbourne last weekend. They were up for raffle prizes, but sadly I didnt win them. However I can definitely say they looked really good.

    Regards G.

    • Like 3
  4. So I've been building the brewery and installing backscenes. The brewery is not finished yet but gives a good indication of the final look. I did the brickwork in Redutex, which is expensive, but the bricks are nicely rendered. I ended up painting it though as the colour as standard just didn't look at all right. The backscenes are ID 00 gauge ones cut down to give housing very close to the scene. I'm not sure that the one I got was the one I actually ordered, or thought I had but as its only a representation of the real place it will do just as well. I'm pretty pleased with the depth its given the scene and I'm sure I will be even happier once I've covered most of it with 3D stuff.

     

    attachicon.gif2017-06-26 10.14.13.jpg

     

    attachicon.gif2017-06-26 10.14.31.jpg

     

    attachicon.gif2017-06-26 10.15.06.jpg

     

     

    Great stuff, really liking this.

     

    Regards G.

  5. All I can say is woweee! Great looking locos and loving the presentation of the layout, well done.

     

    Any chance of going into a bit more detail on your locos. Liking the look of Nos. 5 and 11. Are they 3D printed?

     

    Regards G.

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  6. This weekend turned out to be quite productive.

     

    Yesterday was our monthly BRMA Sydney group meeting, hosted by RodneyV of this parish, which took the form of a workshop led by myself on removing numbers and logos from trains and replacing them with new ones. About eight members came along, and everyone had a go - including some who had never renumbered anything before. I was very happy as it gave me the chance to renumber some coaches and also make a start on renumbering a Bachmann N class 2-6-0. The coaches (four Hornby and one Bachmann Colletts) were all fine but on the N, as with Kernow's O2, the Pressfix numbers were slightly different in shade and size from those applied by the manufacturer. Consequently, instead of just changing one digit I removed all five on each side. After tea we had a short play on Rodney's Radford layout - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/114026-radford/.

     

    When I got home I applied new Pressfix transfers (so 31843 is now 31849) and while I was in the mood I replaced the remaining three original numbers on each side of 30200. All that was after watching New Zealand and the Lions from wet and windy (what's new?) Wellington.

     

    Today I went back to the double slip. After a bit of fettling round the elbows, to get the various gaps the right size to allow wheels to pass through without bumping or binding, pushing a wagon across the elbows was much smoother so I moved on to the tiebars.

     

    At each end of the slip there are two tiebars, making four in total. To avoid soldering everything up solid I decided to use a non-solderable material for them - namely North Eastern H0 3" x 12" stripwood, which works out at about 0.9 mm x 3.5 mm in real life.

     

    attachicon.gif20170702 001 double slip construction 6 pins.JPG

    First I bent the brass lace pins to shape. The short part next to the head should be just long enough to go through the tiebar and sit between the foot and web of the rail, although the dimensions are not critical.

     

    attachicon.gif20170702 002 double slip construction 7 pins in tiebar.JPG

     

    attachicon.gif20170702 003 double slip construction 8 pins in tiebar.JPG

    I marked out the tiebars direct from the rails, not by measuring, and drilled them with a no 70 drill, which is about 0.7 mm in diameter. This lets the pins, which are about 0.6 mm diameter, pass through the tiebar after they have been bent but minimises the amount of slop.

     

    attachicon.gif20170702 005 double slip construction 10 one tiebar.JPG

    After shortening the pins, I fed the tiebar under the rails of the slip so that the pins were next to their two corresponding switch rails. I found that my usual SMP sleeper spacers, being 1.2 mm thick, didn't leave enough room between the tips so I used pieces of the tiebar stripwood as spacers instead. There is still enough clearance for the wheels. After lining everything up I held the tiebar in place using Blu-Tak and soldered the pins to the rails.

     

    I have to say that this was very simple so, subject to the slip operating satisfactorily once it is installed, I might well use timber tiebars for all my points in future.

     

    attachicon.gif20170702 006 double slip construction 11 two tiebars.JPG

     

    attachicon.gif20170702 007 double slip construction 12 four tiebars.JPG

    I worked along the point from one end to the other until all four tiebars were in place.

     

    The "wagon push test" was fine so next weekend I will gap the timbers and join a yard of track to each leg of the slip. This will let me give the slip a thorough work-out in all four directions - albeit with no motors at this stage. I have an idea for how to operate the slip with two motors instead of four, which will save about $50 a go. Watch this space.

     

     

    Looking very good,

     

    Regards G

  7. May thanks to Andy Y and Bobandhow for the photos.  I will use these to check the sketch drawing I have done of the prototype.  Meanwhile progress has been slow on the model but here are a few photos.

    1 Bagnall dismantled. Dummy toolboxes cut off bonnet

    2 Radiator grill separated from bonnet

    3 Cab marked with masking tape ready for cutting down

    4 Sentinel chassis with cab control desk removed to reveal DCC chip

     

    Gday there,

     

    I like where your going with this, giving me some ideas.

    Keep the photos coming, cheers,

     

    Regards G.

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