boxbrownie
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Posts posted by boxbrownie
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Yeeeeeeeees! With a Stratford grey roof !
Brian, you know you want to....... B)
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Looks like its the same problem as before....Tower have painted the lower green slightly lower than the prototype, you can see it runs just over the recessed foot step....and on the prototype it runs through the SS kickplate.
Still looks good though!
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Brian, yes I think that the area over the side windows is the biggest error, but then I excuse it by saying it was taken at midday sun and the shadows are hard
The 710 is out tonight at one of her do's, so I am getting out in the shed for a bit of sticking the old fingers together....hang on, that sounds a bit dodgy!
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Box brownie - that's a very handy comparison shot..... and I think flush glazing it, or at least getting it as flush as physically possible will make all the difference. Bending and refitting the horizontal handrail would help too .
Nidge, The Heljan glazing is "mostly" flush as I have found it needs a good shove to get it to sit fully in, I think a lot leave the factory with the glazing not quite so flush, must be those little Chinese fingers not giving enough shove!
Also which doesn't help is the thickness of the glazing.....it must almost a scale foot thick, not so good for seeing through!
Yes the handrail varies slightly, it can be bent a little but quite honestly you'd need a mic to measure the difference.
I have noticed there is a slight "ledge" over the front windows below the drip rail where the wiper arm spindles exit, this is not present at all on the model. Whether that makes a difference or not I am not so sure. Other than that when the two pictures are layered there is very little difference, as you would expect the A pillars are slightly thicker but nothing drastic.
Anyhoo if I take my reading glasses off it looks bl00dy perfect!
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I have been interested by all the comments I have read in different forums about the Heljan 47 cab profiles, and I bow to those who have drawings to compare and point out the anomalies.
I must admit I thought it looked pretty good especially after I bought the Heljan 7mm version, so much so I took the body shell into the studio and proceeded to line it up as best I could with a photograph sourced from the net (big credit to David Ford for publishing this one, it is a great angle and example for comparison), I am afraid I cannot do any trickery here with overlays you can compare on this forum layout, but in Photoshop I have "layered" the bodyshell picture over the Stratford view and quite frankly there is absolutely so little difference it begs the question....."whats the problem?"
For those with the ability to haul these off and layer them in whatever package you use for editing please do....it baffles me now whether the problem is a 1:1 scale eyeball problem?
David Ford's picture used with his kind permission
Now please do not think I am trying to stir it up, but I really cannot see the dimensional problems that seem to be talked about so much.
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Hi David
Yes, I saw that. It was a top/plan view I was after (or actually an underside view). There isn't much room for the inside pairs on the bogie. I was interested to see how you had done it.
Cheers
Aha, yes....on the inside hangers I cut the spreader guide pegs off the bogie side members (as they do nothing once the it is all glued up) this then gave ample clearance to fit the hangers, well I say ample but you know what I mean
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Tim, that inspired me to get out in the shed tonight, got one set of brake hangers and rodding fixed in position.....I think it will take one evening per axle!
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If you read this tonight I am just letting you know that I will have a surprise loco at Bristol on Sunday. I am sure you will like it
If you read this after Sunday you will have to wait a week for a picture as i am on holiday next week.
No modelling for a week
I hope you put a piccy up tomorrow for us that couldn't get to Bristol..........I've been wondering when the 08 will be out
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Looks like Brians thinking "I wonder what that would look like 1/43 scale?"
Definately looks like 'Happy Birthday' is in order here
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Brian, I like the heat shields you have fashioned from mesh...were they part of the kit or did you "bash" those bits?
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Brian, I might have a spare parts sprue with the straight wipers on, I'll check tonight. Also with the windows I found on my 37 that they did indeed need a good shove straight out of the box to make them sit flush......the glazing is an extremely tight fit, probably those little Chinese fingers haven't got enough shove to get them in far enough!
It also helps if the "depth" of the body moulding around the glazing area is painted black, it doesn't them show the body colour through the edge of the glaze. I'd love to get to Bristol but unfortunately that weekend domestic management has arranged a trip away......I really NEED to get ot an 'O' show....I am still short of the right kind of brake blocks for my 108.
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It will be interesting to see where Heljan decide to place the paint delineation line then, across the grill or across the steps? Or even whether in fact once it is in green it will stand out as much as everyone thinks B)
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Funny you should say that I was thinking exactly the same thing, seems a shame to paint pristine blue engine then proceed to virtually hide that layer completely, I do not think the brown/grey with blue mixed would work as it would be uniform as a layer, then again if after it was more heavily weathered in patches you may well be onto something.
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Thats great Brian, you even have the slightly bent step of the prototype Will you weather it as much as the real example? Thats one dirty diesel......
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I must be as thick as two short buffer beam planks here, all I see is old worn out indicator blinds and new perfect blinds, I think I need to take a gander at some in preservation in the near future.
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Not wishing to be pedantic, but one thing that I have not seen modeled correctly is any diesel head code blind when it is lit up.
On the real thing the out side of the lettering is about 1" wide. The back of the lettering where the light shines through is only about 1/2" wide. I dont know why, but on the real thing you can see it but you dont always see it in photos.
I dont know how this can be achieved. May be a second layer of printing on the back.
Just a small point, but if we can all help to make our modes better.
The light always seemed to have a yellow glow to it as well.
IHTH
OzzyO.
Wot? I am being thick here.....not sure what you mean Ozzy.....be clear man, put the Egg Nog down and explain yourself!
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I think your correct Brian, thats basically the same board as the production 33 except for the graphics, as you say...at last the krone drops, or penny over here
Pump fitted....just trying to sort out the wiring on the thermostat now, decided to change to a newer more accurate (than the 30 year old original) room thermostat while the system is down, problem is the 30 year old wiring, I think the original plumber was either colour blind or just dumb, the wiring colours no way correspond to the diagram for either the boiler or the stat
Good news it we have got heat, but it may not turn off
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That new configeration of board Heljan are using looks to be the same dimensions as the Loksound XL, so apart from the scavenger fan plug everything else is a straight swap through the screw terminals, will be interesting to find out if Heljan are still putting resistors attached to the LEDs themselves as well as on the board, or an inline resistor will be needed to each lighting circuit. But at least it means I will not have to make one of my "conversion PCBs" for my 55 and 31 when they become available.
No modelling for me today.....wouldn't you know it, Christmas holidays and today my central heating pump decided to sieze up....thank heaven B&Q are open today, oh well at least its cheaper than a sound decoder
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Hi Brian,
That will look much better with the main springs set back more, funny how although there is the room Heljan tend to "flatten" the look of thier bogie sides.....maybe they make up for it by widening the tanks?
Anyhoo.....for everyone following Brian's diesel thread.....Merry Christmas folks....and take abreak Christmas evening from the modelling Brian, we'll wait
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I found printing on HP High Gloss film in my inkjet printer gives a much cleaner edge to the figures and also the plastic film backing helps diffuse the light too, also being plastic there is no "paper grain" showing through.
I am loath to start my 108 yet as its still bloomin' freezing out in the fridge, er I mean shed
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Much as I do NOT want to do a JLTRT cl20.....that is looking quite splendiferous
I really must get on with my cl40 over the crimble break.....looking forward to loosing all the little castings on the shed floor
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Looking at this over and over, I know a lot of people say there is a discrepency in the Heljan loco nose and windows shape, but comparing with the real thing the big problem I see (along with many other models) is the window frames are just too thick (by necessity I would guess) the actual basic shape of the cab front looks pretty close to me.....would be nice to compare scans from 1:1 and 1:43 though, might lay this to rest once and for all.
I am sure if the window frames were to be thinned down there would be much less controversy over the cabs.
But then I am not worried if the driver had turn ups on his trousers or not!
TimC's 7mm BR Blue Workbench - JLTRT BR CCT
in Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding
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Tim.....it sure is a lot of nuts! I had to count it up a few times before I believed how many I would need
Looking at the early type GWR shoes I think they would have been my choice as well, but unfortunately I could not find any, and I mean ANY pictures of those slaters shoes at all.....not even on the Slaters site.