Buckjumper

Martyn's solution is very good and simple for the front windows, but obviously you can't do that for the rear, though you could use the same principle and work through the cab doorway.

However, in your post you've hinted you'd like to use glass, not plastic, and I suspect Kleer would destroy the unmistakable reflectivity of that material. The 14xx poses a particular problem so having racked the old noggin, I suspect this is what I'd do, faced with a similar situation.

Cut all your glazing to size. Prime and paint the inside of the cab and add all the detail. With care you can then solder the cab roof on - you'll need to be be in and out like the clappers and use a solder which will quickly draw itself in with capillary action. I'd also be tempted to forego the usual phosphoric acid flux and use the water based safety flux in this situation. If you're quick you won't affect the paint on the inside. You might want to do a couple of test runs off-model to see how much time you've got, though your nose will tell you if you're lingering too long - the paint will smell before beginning to bubble and lift. Rinse away the flux using a hairy paintbrush through the door, dry, and fill the cab with cling film or kitchen towel, then prime and paint the rest of the model as usual. Coat the edge and face of the glass which fits into the half-etched recess with Zap Formula 560 canopy glue and use Martyn's bluetac & cocktail trick through the front window, and do the same through the doors for the rear windows. Leave the glue to dry for 30 mins to an hour before removing any excess on the glass with a chisel-shaped cocktail stick dipped in water and tweezers.I'd still be tempted to support the window with a cocktail stick from the rear while doing so.

Very inspiring :icon_thumbsup2: The 4 plank, cordon and V2 (I think) are all on my list of things I want to build. They'll be in 4mm so if they look half as good as yours, I'll be pleased.

 

btw I've always wondered about the tilt wagon. What were they used for? The name and shape implies that they could be rolled over. If so, how?

 

Nick

A tilt is another name for a tarpaulin. I suspect their use was no different from any other bow-ended or half-moon (nomenclature company dependent) tilt-covered wagon used by most mid-Victorian period railway companies (and later, as in the case of the LB&SCR), and saved having to build too many covered vans which were more expensive to construct.

Adrian

All the various pipe runs add bags of character, so it's well worth the time taken to get them looking right.

It can be a quandary whether to follow the prototype exactly; representing all the dents, dings and bent bits of pipework can sometimes give the impression that the builder's not competent. Sometimes a little bit of compromise goes a long way, and this is looking superb.

Mike

Lanky Kits took over production of the Fourtrack L&Y kits - perhaps they also have the Aspinall and Hughes loco buffers too?

Adrian

Have done the same with some turned Fourtrack buffers - the Scale Hardware bolts make such a difference. The sanding stick SH chuck in free with orders is rather useful for removing the cusp on fine etchings too.

Pete Stamper at Agenoria sells a number of Manning Wardle types which might be of interest. You've built Nellie, so you'll find the Agenoria kitswell designed and very buildable. I turned 'Warwickshire' into 'Success' with a little extra work - the result of which can be seen here.

Current project with #1 son is the Connoisseur Y6 - backdated to be a GER G15, the progress of which is here.

The Furness brake van is excellent. :icon_thumbsup2:

Good question - in short I don't know. I'll find out.

The closeup shows my method of getting nicely rounded hinges by using thin strip folded double.

Consider that idea nicked! What a gloriously simple solution.

Nice work, by the way. :icon_thumbsup2: