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ullypug

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  1. ullypug

    Cheddar P4 - April 2020 update

    By ullypug,


    building
    Despite the covid-19 lockdown, modelling output has slowed this month. However, I have been slowly working on the station building and feel like the to-do list is getting shorter. Canopies have been fixed in place, the south side one is removable in case I can’t get it into its travelling case.
    Rain water pipes have been added from the rather nice Modelu range and this weekend’s job has been to make the roof trussing. I made a cradle from foam so I could invert the roof and work on it separately. Main spars were cyanoed into the rafters and various cross rods and struts soldered on based on the photos I have. Once complete they were painted with a mixture of grey and gunmetal Vallejo acrylic. The photos show the effect I wanted to achieve.
     

     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  2. ullypug
    A very long time ago, some 10 years to be precise, I started a conversion of a Hornby West Country pacific to P4. At the time, I was trying to use the existing chassis and had modified the existing bogie and pony trucks. I was having all manner of problems with the slide bars though and despite trying everything I could think of just couldn’t get it to run properly. After a valiant effort I reached the point where I stopped and put it to one side for a proper think.
    I decided to go down the etched chassis route so duly purchased a Comet chassis pack and put the lot away pending the enthusiasm to try again.
    I didn’t think it would take a decade to get to the point where I would pick it up again but a lot of water has passed under the proverbial bridge since then. A lot…
    So I built the chassis frames and fitted high level horn blocks using a CSB on the main drivers. I retained the existing wheels and dug out a high level loadhauler gearbox and a Mashima 1632 motor from the hoard. You know, the one we all acquired when Mashima declared they were going to stop production.
    The Comet chassis has made a few assumptions in respect of fitting to the Hornby  body but I’m glad to say that there haven’t been any nasty surprises so far. I’ve made a bracket to fix the front mounting screw.
    Coupling rods were already made and I’ve got to the point where all runs smoothly. I just need to decide whether to try and retain the Hornby motion bracket or use the Comet one. I also am looking at the Markits single slide bar crosshead with a view to using if dimensionally accurate. It’s a bit beefier than the Hornby  one.
     


  3. ullypug
    At the end of the last instalment, I'd managed to get a rolling chassis without too much difficulty.
    The fun started when I tried to use a Markits single slide bar crosshead assembly. It just wouldn't fit. I couldn't adopt the usual dodge of widening the cylinders as their outside face is flush with the loco body. So another plan was hatched using the original Hornby slide bar and crosshead. I had to fit by trial and error, using epoxy to fix the cylinders and the slide bar assembly in place. But after a few false starts all was well.
    I then turned my attention to the body, which was detailed with parts from the Albert Goodall range, now courtesy of RT Models. Various pipes and fittings have been added from a mixture of lost wax cast brass and white metal and representation of other pipework and linkages added from brass wire and scrap etch. There are still a few tweaks to complete some of these.
    The body required a little repair, as removal of the original plastic name crests had resulted in a few holes and minor damage. 
    As I'm modelling Watersmeet fairly late on it its life, the original tender body has been replaced with a cut down version and the cab side details removed. The body will need a respray and later box style lining to the cab side. The Irwell Press book is invaluable here for all the little details.
    Reuniting the body with the chassis, I can see the front end is sitting a little high, but that shouldn't be too difficult to correct.
    I do envy those who have managed to convert the original model to the wider finer gauges. I must have had a duff one (or been unable to do the conversion properly. Who knows...
    But we're on the home stretch now!
     


  4. ullypug

    Earl of Mount Edgecumbe Part 2

    By ullypug,


    EM Locomotive
    Glad to see the site is up and running again. I'm slowly adding back the lost images to my blogs so if there's anything anyone has a query on please ask.
    During the site down time I finished off the engine and it's now released for traffic.
    First up was a coat of Halfords etch primer, then Phoenix olive green through an airbrush.
    I'm quite pleased with the paint job. I haven't tackled Southern livery before and I was a bit apprehensive about it but it seems to have turned out ok.
    The lining is a mixture of HMRS LNER lining, boiler bands are home made using black transfer sheet and white lining added with a bowpen.
    I've also used the bowpen for the valances and steps. I used Vallejo acrylic, thinned with their own thinner and it's worked well. The black edge banding has been brush applied with glossy black acrylic, again Vallejo.
    The engine was then given a very light waft of weathering. In my world this engine would only just have been painted so I wanted to keep it fairly new.
    At this point I plonked the engine on the layout and noticed the front end was a little low. This was quickly remedied.
    Coal, crew all added. Just some couplings and route disks and it'll be ready to go. It should be making at appearance at Expo EM.
    I have the 0-6-0T AS Harris to do at some point, but for my next project I'm turning to something altogether larger...











  5. ullypug
    After quite a lengthy delay, the 1361 has been finished, painted and weathered this weekend. It was great to get the airbrush out, though my set up was a little rudimentary. I just need a name plate, crew and couplings. Oh and balance weights and coal...
    But I'm quite happy how this has turned out. There are naff all clearances between the wheel rims and underside of footplate (that's why the Kernow one had splashers) so Ive lifted the body up slightly.
    All runs well and the CSB's work a treat.
    I took the liberty of taking a few shots on Stonehouse St James.
    Also visible are a variety of wagons that made it through the weathering shop this afternoon.
     
     
     
     
     
     







  6. ullypug

    2022 - a new start

    By ullypug,


    General
    Happy to report the tinking table has been reinstated!
    It’s been a quiet (by my standards anyway) couple of years on the modelling front. Primarily due to a divorce which thankfully is now all resolved. The house was sold in December and I moved into my new abode just after Christmas. 
    After sorting the essentials I was able to build a new modelling bench in the box room. This also houses the office desk on the opposite wall but I’m left with a 6ft bench to play with. It’s so nice to have some space again and somewhere to put things. Still some more to do, shelves etc and a new task light.
    Plenty of layout space downstairs too when I have time. Just need to unpack everything now!
    The 1361 was the first customer having the rear wheels’ back to back pulled out as somehow they’d gone too tight.
    Happy days!
     
     
     


  7. ullypug
    It's been a long time since I posted anything on here. Time doesn't seem to be what it was and a painfully slow divorce coupled with Covid restrictions has hampered modelling progress.
     
    But in a rare alignment of planets, stars, work and other more domestic arrangements I've actually had a couple of days at the modelling bench. Must be a holiday or something...
     
    I've been building a little Covid layout using the EMGS track and turnouts, details of which will follow I'm sure at some point. The layout is a small inglenook style affair and goes by the name of Stonehouse St James. It is set in the err, Stonehouse area of Plymouth some time in the 1920's and is of PDSWJR origin but having been taken over by the LSWR and now SR. The GWR has running rights so a variety of rolling stock will be seen. The primary role is goods for the navy's victualling Royal William Yard but an occasional passenger service will operate. There's still plenty to do but at only 4ft 6in long, it doesn't tale up too much space.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    I've converted a Dapol B4 'Guernsey' to EM by skimming down the wheels and the next engine I wanted to tackle was a GWR 1361 saddle tank
     
     
     
    What started out as an optimistic attempt at converting a DJM/Kernow 1361 GWR saddle tank has turned into a full kit build. The DJM tank is impossible to convert to EM. It's hard enough to get apart. No fault of the model, but the way it's been designed means a replacement chassis cannot be done.
     
    So having optimistically opened the CSP models chassis kit, I've actually taken it further and started building the kit which I had anyway. It's always been a favourite loco, ever since I saw Bob Haskins's one on his Cornwallis Yard layout. It'll look nice with a shunter's truck when it's done.
     
    The origins of the body kit certainly are Peter K and I think the chassis is a shot down 7mm etch from Pete Stamper of Agenoria vintage. I've built one of these chassis before in P4 for a 1366 tank and they're really quite straightforward.
     
    The chassis has been built with full springing via CSB's so an additional secti0n was cut out from the frames for the rear axle horn block. I decided to use EM frame spacers instead of those in the kit as they were too narrow. Hornblocks are High Level and wheels Alan Gibson. The gearbox comes with the kit and is a High Level Road Runner driving the rear axle.
      
    I had a bit of a disaster when one of the rods sheared at the half depth layer when I was enlarging the holes but thankful I had a universal rod set in the spares box from Alan Gibson so a new rod was made up without bother. Quartering was by eye viewing through the spoles and all is rolling well so far. I forgot to take a piccie of the chassis with the rods on but you'll just have to trust me on that one.
          
    The slide bars and cylinders bolt to the front of the chassis and can be removable. 
     
    The brake shoes and rods are removable using a spigot for the top hanger and pivoting about the rear shaft. Something I've copied from High Level kits.
     
    The footplate is made up of a basis carcass with overlays for footplate top, buffer beams and valences. 
      
    With just the coupling rods to fettle and connecting rods to add, I'm not far off a working chassis. Hopefully the body won't be too complicated but that's for another day.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     


















  8. ullypug

    LSWR 20T Brake Van

    By ullypug,


    rolling stock
    Due to a senior moment, I forgot that I'd ordered one of these some time ago from Model Railways Direct. I duly ordered one from Kernow so imagine my surprise when two finally arrived. Hey ho.
    As has been documented elsewhere, the colour of these vans looks a little on the light side. As I never saw one in service prior to 1923, I'm not qualified to say whether the LSWR brown is the wrong shade. The general opinion is that it is. Having a second model meant that I was prepared to have a go at doing something about it.
    The chassis unscrews with 4 screws and drops away. The false floor then comes away without difficulty. I simply pushed it out by poking a small screwdriver through the veranda opening to tap it out.
    The tricky bit is the glazing. Despite my original assumptions, the door ends are not part of the glazing shell and can be removed carefully. The guards look out duckets are part of the glazing shell. Working carefully with a blade, the glue seal can be broken and the glazing can be prised inwards. I found it helpful to snap off the two retaining lugs fitted to the underside of the roof. All in all it took about half an hour to disassemble.
     
    The lettering was removed by gentle rubbing with a scratch brush, as my usual method of IPA and cotton buds didn't seem to want to work.
    I then brush painted the sides and removed duckets with Vallejo Acrylic Chocolate Brown 70.872 and was able to work around the existing handrails etc. I have no idea how accurate this is but it seems a fair representation. Refer to earlier point about qualifications. I did paint over the tare lettering on the lower plank.
    The body was then given a couple of coats of Klear before transfers were applied from an old PC Models set (sheet 13). A couple more coats of Klear to seal and it was time to reassemble. I cut away the nicely moulded stove and handrail from the cabin interior as you can't see it and I wanted to add some lead for additional weight.
     
    Taking it a step further, I fitted P4 wheels after first removing the brake gear (this pushes out after breaking the glue join) and cutting a small recess to allow it to go up against the thinned down W irons. These have to have about half a mil taken off for the axles to fit nicely in the new brass bearings.
     
    All reassembled, just waiting couplings.
     
     
     









  9. ullypug

    Cheddar P4 - January 2020 update

    By ullypug,


    building
    Morning all. After an interesting couple of weeks, I've started working on the station building again and moved on to the roof. The parts were cut when I had the rest of the building done and I can now start to assemble the parts. The distinctive ends are layers of mdf, row mark and perspex, sandwiched together and set with spray mount. The top edge is then glued into the roof slab, the underside of which I had rendered to match the diagonal planking. The colour will need lightening a bit from the rattle can I used.

    I also cut a layer of joists which increase the effective thickness. I should have a second layer of purlins, running horizontally along the roof line between the joists and the roof, but I wanted to make the roof as rigid as possible and I don't think anyone will notice. I can always add something cosmetically after (he says knowing full well he won't).

    Glad to say the roof has turned out well and fits nicely onto the station walls. Just a little bit of fettling to do to get it to sit without visible gaps. They I can turn my attention to the trussing.

    I've had to re-draw the clerestory roof as it consists of glazed panels, rather than solid as I first thought. They're on order from York Modelmaking, along with a miscellany of detailing parts; bargeboards, brackets, quoins, footbridge parts, including balustrades and the rather nice entrance gates. I've been informed they can all be cut from Rowmark so we'll see what turns up.

    Turns out the shed roof was clad with double Roman tiles rather than decorative flat tiles as per the annex buildings so that will make like easier.

    The walls have had the mortar courses filled with a ready mix filler and I need to add final stonework colouring, which will be a darker colour than at present.
     
    I've also made the former garage in the station forecourt that housed the motor buses used to connect to Burnham-on-Sea in the 1930's. I had to shorten it a bit as I wanted this building to be fixed down and it's duly been plonked onto the layout. The terraformed station forecourt area has worked well and I've trial fitted the platform surfaces from 1mm thick Palight and added a couple of Lanarkshire Model's GWR bufferstops in the up yard.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     












  10. ullypug

    Cheddar P4 - February 2020 update

    By ullypug,


    building
    Cor, this building lark goes on a bit doesn't it?
    So, to bring things up to speed.
    The roof has had a fair few sheets of double Roman ABS tile sheets added and the glazing added. This was a little tricky as the Rowmark framing wanted to warp all over the place. The glazing is a single layer of 1mm Prespex. Despite being saturated in Spraymount and heavily weighted down, some of the glazing bars wanted to lift up. The solution was to flood each pane with Johnson's Klear and reset. In a couple of places even that didn't work so I resorted to canopy glue. I got there in the end. I've since added a few sections of framing for the very ends and the ridge tiles etc, though I've not taken any photos of that, but it's coming together nicely. The roof itself is now being subject to a bit of fettling, filling and painting.
    This weekend's task was to paint all of the walls and keep painting, drybrushing and more dry brushing until I'd got the colours to match those of the already completed goods shed. It took ages but I'm really pleased with the result. I keep panicking I've overdone the mortar work but from 3ft it's exactly the result I wanted. Must be the EM modeller in me!
    The end shed timber work has had a base coat and will have a lighter top coat and I started on the internal footbridge. These have stone stairs and a timber bridge section. All presently demountable but will be fixed in place permanently when painted. I had to carve out some of the plinths internally as I'd forgotten the steps will be flush to the wall. The rather funky balustrades are cut from Rowmark and have had a base coat to start. I've started to paint the footbridge brackets and have also painted the self adhesive quoins I had cut to tidy up the building corners.
    A bit more filling and fettling but I feel we're on the homeward straight now. A bit of a photo overload, but I can't be ars8d to sort them out!
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     








  11. ullypug

    Cheddar Signal Box

    By ullypug,


    Buildings
    Well it's been a while since I posted anything on this thread, almost since the beginning of the first lock down in fact.
    Whilst I have been concentrating on my Stonehouse St James covid layout in the intervening period, I did decide to complete the signal box for Cheddar. The box itself is a Saxby and Farmer Type 3 and as I noted last time, this was drawn up in Coreldraw and the parts cut by York Modelmaking. What followed was a fairly simple assembly of parts, correcting the various mistakes I made along the way or, as is normally the case when I unearthed a photo after the event showing that some of my assumptions weren't correct!

    The sides are 1mm MDF with the brickwork pattern rendered . The windows are Rowmark, stuck to perspex with spray mount. The plinth is Slaters plasticard. The interior is an old Springside kit I had kicking around. I think the levers are painted correctly! Tiles are York self adhesive and other bits and pieces are odds and sods of plasticard, wire and a bit of perspex for the lamp. The nameplate was custom etched by Light Railway Stores.

    As with all things, now it's finished I can see a few things that niggle me but the funny thing is the front of the box will face the operators, not the public when it all gets plonked onto the layout. There's a bit of weathering required to the soffit boards but overall it's getting there.

    Happier to report that a house move shouldn't be too far away now. Rest assured the new abode has suitable space for layout erection, albeit not all at the same time!

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  12. ullypug

    Dapol B4 to EM conversion

    By ullypug,


    EM Conversion
    I recently found a few photos of a recent conversion I did a while back of the Dapol B4 to EM for my Covid shunting layout.
    I've been working quite a bit on Guernsey in the Channel Islands so this was originally an impulse purchase.
    I decided the LSWR would have loaned it from Southampton Docks to work the Stonehouse branch in Plymouth in my universe anyway.
     
    The B4 is a tricky thing to convert by the usual standards. I didn't want to change the wheels as there isn't a 100% accurate wheel available from Gibson. There's also very little room between the con rods and the front steps.
    There is a chassis kit and full white metal body kit available for the B4 tank from Nucast Partners and I've one of these in the cupboard to do at some point.
    After a bit of head scratching I decided to put the wheels in a lathe and skim down to 2.1mm thickness. It means you lose the wheel boss on the front but the good news is everything can be retained.
    The wheels have a plastic boss on the rear which means they can be reset on the axles once skimmed.
    Apologies to purists but my method was to use a 6BA bolt and nut fixed through the wheel and skimmed down. The remaining centre 'boss' was filed down afterwards. I took it very slowly over a couple of sessions.
    All went back together using the original crank pins and rods. Pick ups were tweaked and all runs well.
     
    Not much else to say really so here are some photos
     
    original wheel and axle

     
    skimming in lathe

     
    the central 'boss' is then filed down

     
    rewheeled

     
    Wheels painted and all done


  13. ullypug

    Earl of Mount Edgecumbe Part 1

    By ullypug,


    Kit
    With the tinking table open again, I’m trying to get another loco finished before Stonehouse goes to Expo EM. It’s one of the ex PD&SWJR 0-6-2T’s built by Hawthorn Leslie. The origin of the model is a CSP kit and has been on my to do list for a while. The chassis will be compensated and I’ve got the body done. Frames are done with rods etc and next will be to fit the wheels. The high level gearbox is in the bench so hopefully not too far to go now.
     
     
     
     
     
     




  14. ullypug
    Another bank holiday and a bit more time at the tinking table working on the 1361. The cylinders and slide bars are done, crossheads fettled and con rods added. CSBs are fitted and all runs smoothly.

    The cab, roof, smokebox, bunker and tanks have been fashioned from about a million bits of brass. Everything has an overlay. Even the overlays. Thank goodness for my RSU. The kit is carefully thought out and any mistakes are mine. I can see a couple of things in the photos that are going to need tweaking.

    It's starting to resemble a series of component parts which are ready to be fitted together, once they've had a thorough clean up. Still I'm a happy chap as it's been quite a while since I've built an engine and I'm enjoying it.
     









  15. ullypug
    I was doing a demo at the recent Railwells show and was pleased that I managed to do virtually no modelling. Always the sign of a successful 'demo' weekend.
    I did get as far as dismantling an Oxford models AA3 ex GW Toad in BR livery.
    Several people pointed out the errors in the model (apart from the chassis being supplied in the wrong scale as the wheels are too close together obviously), so I didn't do much more than take it apart and compensate one axle with a low profile MJT unit. The axles are an odd length (about 27mm) so the non compensated end had 2 top hat bearings shoved into the back of the axle boxes to take up the difference (technical stuff this) and it runs ok.
    The body comes apart after a fashion and the buffers pull out (or at least they're supposed to. One end did, the other stuck fast. The end lamp irons are metal and pull out too.
    Having had a good look at things I've since set about correcting the bodywork errors namely:
    1. Plating over the ends with 5 thou.
    2. Cutting out and re-setting the non-veranda end windows one plank higher, using Evergreen strip to make the frame.
    3. Blanking over the central window to the above with 5 thou and forming individual planks from 10 x 40 thou.
    4. Swapping the sand boxes from the veranda and non-veranda ends.
    5. Removing the central chimney and replacing with brass, offset accordingly.
    6. Adding some transfers (Railtec) more suitable for Cheddar. I've absolutely no idea whether there was ever one at Westbury and I'm not bothered if there wasn't.
    7. Filling in the central cut out to the 6 wheel footboard.
     
    Photos show the current state of affairs, with the solvent hardening off. Still to complete are:
    8. Final detailing to non-veranda end window frame and sanding down the planking to the central window.
    9. Fit couplings
    10. Re-fit lamp irons
    11. Add rivet detail to plated ends
    12. Reassemble chassis with brake gear and fit body.
    13. Replace one pair of buffers.
    14. Paint as necessary

  16. ullypug
    After an enjoyable day at the EMGS AGM in Cardiff a couple of weeks ago, I felt suitably enthused about starting terraforming around the station building. It’s no where near finished yet but is at a state where I could form the socket it’s going to sit in. I’m using layers of 5mm craft foam (extruded polystyrene sheet) to work but the subtle changes I need. The slight compression I had to adopt in the yards makes things a little more interesting but nothing insurmountable. I’m really liking how it’s looking though there’s still a lot more to do. Couldn’t resist taking a few snaps.
    the building is coming on. The rear facing walls have had a layer of filler rubbed into the mortar courses and a few washes applied. Still need to dry brush some lighter colour back into the wall face though.








  17. ullypug
    Having just about got the hang of the new software and negotiated the family birthday fest between mid Jan and mid Feb, I've returned to the modelling bench. The 2MT detailing has been finished off. I've added injectors, ejectors, upjectors and downjectors, quite a few bits of wire that no doubt have very technical names. I cut out the original door recesses and replaced with a new set back one and added side hung handrails. I've fitted a new chimney (thanks Dave) and subjected the body and chassis to a heavy weathering waft. I'll probably cut that back a little. I've a few areas to revisit and am awaiting the smokebox plate from 247. Once that's one, it's just the glazing and a little coal in the bunker and I think we're done.

  18. ullypug
    So this is where I’ve got to. The main building carcass is assembled and skinned with embossed ABS. All of the plinths are in where I’m sure of the ground levels, with a couple to complete where the ground falls away and the plinths deepen accordingly. Mindful that I’m taking a couple of boards to the EM Gauge Society AGM and skills day in Cardiff on Saturday, I’ve built a transport box which the building will live in once it’s finished. I’ve built the gents WC which was located in the north west corner. I had to add a degree of internal detailing although it’ll never be visible to the public.
    if you fancy a good day out, I can recommend the skills day. Plenty of knowledgeable modellers (and me to average things out), 3 layouts and a good trade representation. Do come and say hello if you’re in the area.










  19. ullypug
    One of my long standing 'round tuit' projects has been a Triang bogie luggage van that was given to me by the late Bob Haskins. As is the way, I was looking for something else in the modelling room when I came across a box containing a number of wagons he'd given me, some years ago now.
    I knew I'd picked up a detailing conversion pack for it from Roxey Mouldings at a bring and buy so I thought why not?
    I guess Bob had this coach from the early seventies and the Roxey kit was also in a suitably decrepit box but as you know I do like these resurrection projects.
    The instructions were comprehensive and luckily I already had the Gould book from Oakwood Press to provide background information.
    First step was to remove the green paint (I guess Bob applied) using Modelstrip.
    I decided not to reuse the existing doors. New ones were made from Evergreen planking sheets and straps added from strip with rivet detail added from cubes of 5mm square section. Handrails were added from 0.35mm wire.
    The under frame was made up on a base of copper clad, allowing it to be soldered together before bolting to the underside of the body.
    The bogies are sprung, using the Bill Bedford 8ft variants and the white metal side frames glued on.
    I used MJT LSWR/SR pattern ventilators as the ones in the Roxey kit had a little too much flash for my liking.
    Once the detailing had been complete, the coach was sprayed with Halfords plastic primer, Precision carmine airbrushed on and a light weathering coat added. The roof has a coat of Lifecolour roof dirt.
    I've attached a few photos including the finished article on Cheddar. My plan is to run it as a parcels/strawberry van. I've absolutely no idea if these vans ever ran on the Cheddar Valley line, but I don't care. I think Bob would have liked the end result and that's all that matters!

  20. ullypug
    And so the assembly begins. The main shed has been glued around the ring beam and the building annex supporting walls fixed in place. I’ll add the main building next, once I’ve glued the end walls in. The building ultimately rests on the baseboard so platforms still have to be built and the base of each wall has a thickening and string course of ashlar to add, hence the black plasticard strips in some of the photos.







  21. ullypug
    Due to the pressures of a new job and other distractions, modelling activity over the summer has slowed somewhat. Now the nights are drawing in, I have turned to the project for Cheddar, namely the station building.
    The component parts for this were cut by York Modelmaking from drawings I prepared on Coreldraw. Being over 2 feet long, it's going to be a big project but who's rushing?
    The basis is an pdf carcass, with layers of Rowmark and perspex for the window, door and glazing, over which lies a layer of embossed ABS from Green Stuff World. The ashlar window and door surrounds are mdf. All of this uses the same methodology I employed for the goods shed, except the window frame layers lie over the mdf carcass, to avoid being set too deep. You can't see the mid layers behind the white Rowmark but they are there!
    The photos show how the parts fit together, with progress limited to cutting out the window and door openings for the side walls (inside and out) and the end shed walls having some initial work done to thicken out the pillars.
    Not very exciting, but it's progress and now hardening under a coat of primer before I start to assemble complete wall units.
    In case you're wondering, the walls have a thickening/build out at the base, so I'll be adding that later.
    I'm having an internal debate about the colour of the window surrounds. Frames would be white and under GWR days the surrounds would be dark stone no 3. Wonder what they'd be post war in this part of Somerset??
    Answers on a post card please.







  22. ullypug
    Inbetween building the goods shed and drawing up the artwork for the station building, which has now arrived, I've been building a twin set AEC railcar set for Cheddar. This is from a set of etches from Worsley Works. To be fair, they are sold as a set of scratch aids, but I've found it all quite a challenge. Unfortunately the etches contain a number of errors which regrettably I didn’t discover until fairly late on.
    Notably, the windows in the rail car sides are set too low, with the exception of the central door. For some reason they’ve all been set about 1.5mm too low whereas they should all be at the same level. The drawings in the Judge book clearly show it though I’ll admit I didn’t notice at first. The problem became apparent when I started to paint and line the rail cars. The line between crimson and cream should be at the top of the sloping triangular fillet in the front nose, then continue at that level along the body side. I’ve had to bend the lining round to have it in the correct place at the crease in the nose front, otherwise it would have been too low. It’s one of those things that some people undoubtedly won’t notice but once you know it’s there it does kind of leap out at you.  I've let Allen know at Worsley and he says he's corrected the etch now. He has offered me a replacement should anyone else order one so I've no complaints there.
    The droplight for the front door is the right size, unfortunately the window opening is too large so the droplight isn’t very effective. I formed some new ones from painted plasticard but I can see in the photo one needs more attention.
    I deviated from the intended chassis construction arrangement as the skirt section is supposed to join to the body at top of skirt, but is too narrow resulting in an obvious join. I cut the chassis parts in half longitudinally and soldered to the body sides.
    I used Lima mouldings for the railcar bogie side frames from Peter’s Spares, coach corridor connections were from MJT and I used Kadee No 21 couplings to represent the knuckle/buck eye connectors.
    I‘ve used a Replica motorised chassis to power the railcar no 36 (the restaurant car). This is the 57ft version cut and shut to match the reduced wheelbase. I used one of their mark 1 coach interiors in the unpowered car, cut and shut to fit the seating arrangement. The unpowered car No 35 sits on MJT CCT's.
    It does look at home on the layout, though the sides issue will niggle me for a while. Just wish I'd spotted it earlier!
    Next will be the long build of the station building. I've a large box of bits to work my way through but it should be fun.







  23. ullypug
    Along with a few others, the end of the year seems like a good time to take stock of modelling progress over the previous 12 months.
    I set out this year to make progress with Cheddar, having previously been distracted by other projects and any excuse to avoid the wiring.
    Well I think it's safe to say 2018 was a year of ups and downs on a personal front. However, from a modelling point of view I've achieved what I wanted to; wiring was finished in March and track testing even resulted in some video clips.
    A lengthy and unexpected period off work in the summer resulted in a lot more time at home than I was anticipating and I'm pleased that I found the scenic work suitably therapeutic as part of my recuperation.
    Scenics are now well and truly onto the 5th board, the one with the goods shed and signal box. I've mocked up the station master's house based on drawings I found on the local authority planning portal. I've decided it's going to have a bit of compression eventually as it's too big presently.
    The permanent way shed beds in nicely and the yard has had coatings of Dulcote Stone scenic dust from Attwood Aggregates. I'm planning on bedding a few things down once it's all up and assembled.
    I've put a platform for the stone loading point on Bartlett's (?) siding and finished off the point rodding and returns into the mocked up signal box. Next will be to install the 2 rod point rodding for the Wells end turn out and then I can mock up the platforms.
    Board 4 is just about finished. Some additional weeds have been added to the extensive strawberry patches and I'm happier with these.
    So what's in store for 2019? Three boards to finish. Lots of buildings to make and two fiddle yards to build. Maybe even some signals. And an awful lot of detailing!
    Backscenes and lighting are a long way away yet.
    I hope you all have a great 2019 and I wish you all the very best for the new year.

  24. ullypug
    Pleased to report that the brake coach is finished, bar one or two touch ups when the paint has dried.
    I'm quite pleased with the way this has turned out. The texture of the roof is as it comes from Shapeways. Handy for representing painted canvas but not smooth wood. The soot wash has darkened things nicely and all the other ancillary bits and pieces have been added. The coach will be making its debut at Preston in 2 weeks time, so come along and say hello if you're passing.




  25. ullypug

    WCPR Ex GER Full Brake

    By ullypug,

    In-between working on the Ivatt 2MT for Cheddar, I've been looking at the ex GER 4 wheel brake, which ran as coach no 14 on the WCPR. The prototype was originally used to convey milk churns but was involved in a fatal accident in Worle in the 1920's, after which it was towed to Clevedon and never used again. There are a couple of photos of it in the dump road in the mid 1930's.
    This blog is really a co-ordinated effort because it uses a number of resources of this fair forum (that's RMWeb to you and me).
    Last year, a 3D printed model became available through Rue_D_etropal of this parish who designs and draws them up for sale via his Shapeways shop.
    A link to the relevant page is here.
    Being the last real item of rolling stock I need to complete Clevedon, I decided that I'd like to have one.
    I've avoided 3D printed models to date because I haven't been convinced that the surface texture is yet smooth enough. The surface texture looks akin to wet and dry paper in my eyes. To be fair, this is made perfectly clear when you look at the website, so this isn't intended as a complaint. The model looks accurate to me dimensionally, though I decided that everything below the sole bar would be removed. The lower footboard and springs were duly snipped off with a pair of side cutters and filed smooth.
    The body was given a trial sanding using my various filing sticks but it soon became apparent that I wouldn't be able to sand back to a flat finish without destroying the detail and defeat the purpose of the exercise.
    So, first up I applied a coat of filler primer from a Halfords rattle can. Two coats of Precision gloss varnish were applied with the coach side being held perfectly horizontal. I figured that the varnish would settle to its own level, particularly in the panels. I was inspired to try this by Mikkel in his experimentations on GWR chocolate and cream painting on Ratio GWR 4 wheel coaches, though I can't find the link at the moment. Once that had fully hardened, I then applied two coats of Humbrol orange enamel and have tried to represent the varnished teak effect Mike Trice so skilfully achieved here using Burnt Umber oil paint and 'Liquin'. Mike makes it look very easy is all I'm saying! The coach in the photos is quite a light colour which I presume is the effect of leaving it out in the Somerset weather for 20 years! 
    The body is presently under a soot wash and I'll dry that back before I start to add detailing, buffers, handrails, springs, handles, plates and so forth. The plan is to have the coach available for the Preston show in a couple of weeks as it's the only show I'm doing with Clevedon this year.
    Overall, I'm satisfied with the finish. It's smooth enough and although I've lost some of the detail, I can still see what it's supposed to be and rule No 1 applies here!
    The chassis is a bit more straightforward, being sprung using Bill Bedford NPCS W irons on a false floor base of copper clad. The brakes were simple single sided Morton type and I'm presently making these up using bits from the spares box.



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