PhilH

1 hour ago, Edwardian said:

 

Thanks, that is a sound idea.

 

So, I have had a trawl and the closest I have come to something suitable is the STLs for the very 3D print AEC lorry I posted earlier. It's scaled at 1/48 and suggests printing at 195% for 1/76.

 

Despite there being an "Ex-War" version, actually it is the components of the flat-bed version I spotted that are closet to the WD Y-Type. In other words, exactly the same amount of scratch-building would be required, but at least I would be getting a print of only the bits I'd need.

 

I have made enquiries of a trusted 3D print supplier!

'm glad you have found at least one, I do feel sure there are more hidden out there somewhere.

Just one thing, if the file is scaled at 1/48 to print at 1/76 it has to be printed at 63.2%. Printing 1/48 at 195% would make it approx 1/25 scale.I'm sorry to remind you of this but the bigger the scale number the smaller the model.

edit

Here is a handy scale conversion chart which gives you percentages to apply when converting from one sale to another. The scale from is the left hand column, the scale to is in the table.

http://www.wwi-models.org/misc/scalecon.html

With regard to Ww1 era lorries there are on the internet, either free or small cost, .stl files for printing quite a diverse range of these items. Once you have downloaded these files you can print as many as you like for pennies. You can also rescale them up or down in the slicer with no degradation in quality, the file is the file no matter what scale. Or, of course, if you are a cad whizz then the world really is your oyster.

Of course you will need a resin printer or make friends with someone who has one. 3d printing at home really has opened up a whole new world of possibilities for modelling so the first option would be best. 

Sorry for the delay in replying, life and all that.

I managed a trial piece by firstly drawing  the frame then basically slightly sinking separate planks into it. I think my next step might be to try and draw a whole side using this method, it's time consuming but it did seem to work.

Thank you for the replies.

I'm currently deep in the rabbit hole of the WDLR, the WW1 'trench railway'. I have printed quite a few examples of stock for this in 1/35 for possible static diorama from available files on Thingiverse. However I now find that my interest has broadened and would like to now print other items of stock from the WDLR just because I can. This will involve me trying to design these examples, however there is a drawback as my cad skills are virtually non existent, my brain just doesn't seem to be wired to learn the more advanced programs that are available. So I am limited to simple designs in Tinkercad which for some reason I find relatively intuitive.

Although I know my ambition outstrips my capabilities I would like to know if there is any way I can replicate the sides shown in the example drawing on Tinkercad, basically planks nailed together somehow. I know I can replicate some sort of plank but would like to join them as a side but replicate the joins and still have it hang together. Inside cross joists? I just don't know.

Any replies are much appreciated.

edit: does the answer lie in the drawing, will the 'v' joists hold them together?

Thanks for the replies. I did as suggested in the first reply and basically left a print which included fairly long flat pieces overnight to dry (I too have an old airbrush and compressor which I use to start the drying process) then cured it. At the moment it seems to be as flat as a pancake so we shall see.

Wow, this has got to be the mother of all thread drifts...

As the title can anybody help with the dimensions of these WW1 wagons please? I've 3d printed one (it's for a possible 1/35 static diorama) using a scaled up file from Thingiverse but it seems huge. I've double checked my calculations against the file, they seem ok but would like to check against original dimensions if possible.

I've hunted high and low on the internet but can't seem to find the information I'm after. As always any help in this is much appreciated.

As the title suggest every now and then I get warping in my resin prints. Although I can post print mainly straighten it using a heat gun I was wondering if there's a magic cure to stop it, or is it simply an unwanted product of the process of 3-D resin printing.

I exclusively use ABS like resin as in most cases I quite like the slight flexibility it gives, but is this a double edge sword inasmuch it can contribute to the warping?

Some 1/35 scale WDLR rolling stock, a Simplex 20 hp and a Crewe tractor I recently printed. These are for a (rather large) possible diorama but if it doesn't materialise I'm enjoying printing them anyway. Some warping is evident on the type C bogies, I forgot to give them the heat gun treatment before I took the photos. 

They say every day is a school day, one thing I'm learning is that I have to take much more care in removing support attachment points to avoid print acne!

My daughter has the simplest, yet most sensible answer...'just be kind'.

Seems to work in most situations.

My current rabbit hole is 3-D printing bits for a WDLR (WW1 trench railway) railway diorama. It's a longshot but does anybody know of a copy of the above book by Roy C Link available anywhere.

I am aware of copies available at a price way beyond my budget, I am  prepared to pay a reasonably realistic price for a copy but have to balance my wish for a copy against the reality of my bank balance.

On 30/04/2024 at 17:38, melmerby said:

It's an NHS thing.

We can still phone for appointments, prescriptions etc. but it was so much easier doing it on-line.

 

 

I live in an area of extremely high growth not matched by provision of medical facilities. To get an appointment at one of the two doctors surgeries serving this area you first have to do an econsult. You are then advised by text within two days whether you should book an appointment or not, either same day for more urgent cases or routine for the more normal stuff. Note, you are not given an appointment you are given permission to ring up to try and book one. You cannot book a routine appointment without having done an econsult.
 

Routine appointments are only released at 11am on a Wednesday for the week ahead. Additionally you are allowed to ring up on Thursday at 4pm to see if there are any cancellations or such. As I said earlier you can only ring for an appointment if you have an econsult on record.

I enclose an image of my attempts today to get through to my surgery starting at 10.58 am today. The number next to the phone number is the number of attempts I made before I gave up. Mostly I could not even get through, a recorded message telling me that the phone lines were full. This is the reality of trying to get to see a doctor round here in the 21st century.

1 hour ago, BoD said:

Did it break down or just have problems with adhesion.  

It doesn't really matter for the purposes of this thread. Facts and knowledge in a lot of cases seem to take second place to the I presume, I think that, maybe, it could be ,should have and would have type of posts that abound.

I'm no apologist for West Coast,  but having worked with them in the past I'm not a hater either.

I just think that a fair few of the posts on here go way past objectivity.
 

One thought did occur to me.... for all of those who worry about falling out of slam door stock I would assume you don't drive a car or cross the road where you are thousands of times more likely to be injured or killed. As I say just a thought...

10 hours ago, Ohmisterporter said:

Regarding steam locomotives running up and down gradients: please correct me if I am wrong but won't a loco running uphilll chimney first have its boiler at the same angle to the gradient when it is running downhill tender first? And vice versa.

Turning tender engines on short turntables can be done by splitting the engine and tender; turning each part separately, then re-joining them. I have seen it done several times on the Ratty with visiting locos from the RHDR that are longer than Ratty engines. A lot depends on the timetable for the return trip of course. 

The thing is on a boiler you have a hot end and the other end. The hot end is the firebox end which must be kept covered with water, so running uphill chimney first not a problem, water will run toward the firebox (back) end naturally, basically the crown of the box will be covered. Going uphill tender first it’s the reverse, water will run away from the firebox end leading to low water level over the firebox if not managed properly. This can cause serious damage, dropping plugs etc. (think boiling a saucepan of water at home, all is well when there is water in it, not so good if you let it boil dry and keep on heating it)

As regards splitting tenders from engines this can be a right pain in the backside to do on a full size engine. Pins get stuck, very often you have to get a shunt engine or some such to squeeze the engine and tender together so the pin can be withdrawn, the safety chains get stuck, pipes between loco and tender to disconnect etc. You will also need another loco of some sort to move the engine and tender around once disconnected. Not always a straightforward task by any means.

4 minutes ago, Jeremy Cumberland said:

 

 

I understand that steam locomotives usually face Mallaig on this run. I wonder why it was changed. Has the loco since been turned? Presumably it would need to go back almost to Glasgow to do so.

I believe there is a working turntable at Fort William.

12 minutes ago, Gilbert said:

That's what I'd heard - a former driver told me he was unsurprised when it stalled running tender first...

I've driven 45231 and our own 45379 on numerous occasions on the MHR which involved, depending on which way the things came back from hire on other railways, travelling 3 1/2 miles tender first up the 1in60 bank from Alton to Medstead. Care had to be taken when doing this especially during damp conditions with, say, six well filled coaches on. luckily there are no sharp curves on this bank to further compound the drag of the train.

Stalling on restart has always been a factor with steam locomotives, sometimes the bl**dy things just do not want to go no matter how skilled the crew.

As far as I am aware there is no turntable or triangle at Mallaig. If a steam engine works chimney first there how can it work back to Fort William any other way than tender first. Water level is a matter of boiler management by the crew. Sanding is a available when working tender first on a Black 5, although only 50% of what’s available when working chimney first.

27 minutes ago, BMS said:

According to someone on an NMRA video club session today the failure was due to trying to climb 1:50 with the firebox leading the chimney ; I don't know this to be true but if true is another major clanger. 

Why?

1 hour ago, 009 micro modeller said:

Have we really, or is that just what certain sections of the media want you to think?

I form my own opinions from observation and experience. I have long ago discounted most forms of media as a valid vehicle of information.

2 hours ago, Chris M said:

I think its a shame that nowadays people spend so much time looking for faults with figures from the past. Oliver Cromwell would not have been controversial back in the 1950s because, even though we all knew there were a lot of issues with his time in power, he was still a very significant figure in English history and he was respected as such. These days it seems that when a famous figure is found to have done some bad things they sort of get deleted which is a shame.

Indeed. I think it's amazing that we have bred a generation of people who are so perfect all they seem to do is to look outside themselves to find fault with others. It often makes me wonder if it is to  divert attention away from their own shortcomings / imperfections/ peccadilloes or dark sides. For instance, it happens all the time in so called parliamentary debate!

John 8:7

To look at it from another angle I wouldn’t be surprised if any bored individual these days with time on their hands and access to the internet can find skeletons in the cupboard of any individual or organisation locomotives are named after. Just a shame that all their latent intellect isn’t put to better use.

So when you see ‘Crewe Signal Box 1938-2016’ or whatever on the side of some dirty diesel somewhere you can bet there were some nefarious goings on in that establishment….

9 hours ago, Paul_in_Ricky said:

No, they're not.
From the description on Thingiverse;

"This is a Simplex 20hp Tractor in 16mm to the foot scale (1/19)"

 

My ignorance about the weird and wonderful scales used by narrow gauge modellers would have probably been made clearer if you had gone on to quote my next sentence immediately after the sentence you quoted.

7 hours ago, Vistisen said:

 

Here is another comparison print.  This is just about the maximum size the resin printer could cope with, the rough edge on the left is where the print met the raft. The two designs are not quite the same. The size of the arches was not quite right on the resin test print, There was also an error in the 1st statue enclosure on the left hand side. I corrected them on the same day I received my Bambu and this was the first test print made using one of my designs on that printer. In my effort to fit the whole design in such a way that the walls did not touch the raft, I tilted the wall a few more degrees and this resulted in resin print version of the new design becoming too warped to use! ( and it took 14 hours to print!)

 

 

. I

Surely you just move the Z measurement a few mil off the plate before rotating the print to the optimum angle. I print nothing on the plate on my resin printers, 1 usually raise by 8 mm, rotate then support. I also invariably use a raft under the supports,

I've made a start on what is possibly going to be my next rabbit hole, a WW1 diorama depicting some sort of WDLR scene. the first two prints are of the C and D type wagons utilising free Thingiverse files. As these can be scaled up or down in the slicer and the files are either as assembled bodies and bogies or the parts to make these I would imagine they can easily be made into working examples for a model railway. I printed them in 1/35 scale, they are quite large so I can imagine they would look good in O/16.5 or some such.

OnThingiverse are also files for A,B and E types of wagon so will have a go at those soon. Of course the other good thing about these is they cost pennies to produce as opposed to seemingly exorbitant prices charged elsewhere.
Probably my next attempt will be to see what they look like scaled down to 1/72 as a diorama in 1/35 with these would be huge. Finally of course one bonus with 3-D printing is why print only one when you can load the build plate with lots!

https://news.sky.com/story/human-waste-could-soon-be-used-to-fuel-air-travel-13112895
 

I wonder if they'll ever be able to cut out the middleman...