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Hornby Elite Console type controller Firmware upgradeable by user, download file from Hornby and connect Elite to PC via USB cable. Select units can be plugged in and used as walkabout controllers. Can be used as a PC interface to use any of the train software packages available including Hornby RailMaster. Supports Railcom. 240v to15v DC 4amp power supply included. The Hornby Elite is a fully featured DCC controller that has two control knobs on the front, these control the speed of the locomotive and by pressing down on them they will change the loco direction, they are also used to scroll through the numerous menus and pressing the control knob will act as the Enter button. The photo above shows the start up sequence, it first shows the mode the unit is in, either standard or classic and then this screen which highlights the speed control segments and shows the 1.42 which is the latest version of firmware as at time of writing. This controller can operate all 28 functions Can read and write CV's Has all the different program modes Has a separate program track output Can program and operate accessory decoders. As I've stated this controller is heavily menu orientated and takes a bit of getting used to, but you do get the hang of it. CV29 is handled by a series of menus which you can just select, so for example one of the settings in CV29 is direction:- Normal or Reverse so instead of having to add numbers to bit what ever it is, you can just select what you need. It has been designed to keep things at an easy level so you don't have to worry about the different bit numbers. You can also just select the actual CV number and read or write that number when the loco is on the program track. You can also program using operate mode programming where the loco is left on the main track. To control a locomotive press the LOCO button then rotate or type in the address of the loco you want, then press the control knob at the top of the screen will be the time then the number of the currently active control knob 1 or 2 then the address or name along the bottom. (Yes you can name the locos and the points, so if you've already entered a loco in the menu and given it a name when you select it's address the name will appear) To have a different loco on the other control knob again press the LOCO button type in or scroll through the addresses by rotating the control knob until you find the address you want press the control knob and that loco will be controlled. NOTE:- Only ONE control knob is active at one time, you can't turn both control knobs at the same time to control two different locos! If you've been running for a while you may have a number of locos stored in memory for each control knob. If you keep pressing the ESCAPE button it will scroll through the last 10 locos that were controlled for that control knob and on the display it will show the address or the name along with the direction shown by the black arrow and the speed shown by how many segments are filled in on the lower centre red panel. The above screens show the different functions available. Press the FUNCTION button once gives you access to F0 to F9 pressing any of the numbers will highlight a number in black on the bottom of the display this shows which function you have switched on. Press and let go will be latching, press and hold the number will be momentary. Press the FUNCTION button again will give access to F10 to F19 again pressing the number will activate that function, so pressing number 5 will activate F15 the number 5 will turn on in the LCD display, press it again to turn it off and the 5 will switch off on the LCD. Press the FUNCTION button again will give access to F20 to F28 and again pressing the number will turn the function on press again turns it off. Another press of the Function button shows the following screen:- This is the fuel simulation screen, it shows the fuel simulation is switched off on loco address 3 This is special menu that is on the Elite which is used when you have a Hornby Sapphire decoder fitted in your locos, you can set in another menu the amount of fuel to be carried, when you switch the function on the fuel will decrease depending on the speed of the loco. You can check the amount remaining by coming back into this screen when it's switch on as shown below:- The FXXX is because the Elite is connected to a track and is not reading a loco. The fuel simulation is using Railcom to send the data back to the controller as it's running, so Railcom has to be switched on in the Elite and on the decoder. When the fuel runs out the loco will stop, if the loco has lights they will flash, to reset the fuel you need to scroll through using the FUNCTION button turn fuel off and then back on again. If you have a loco running on control knob 1 and go into it's functions you can leave it on the function page and just press control knob 2 to operate the loco on control knob 2. When you press control knob 1 again it will still be on the function page you left it on. As well as the fuel simulation page, the Elite also has a dedicated menu to set up the auto control cycle or ACC of the Sapphire decoder, these are a series of events and times that are easily set using a menu system. The fuel and ACC in the Hornby Sapphire decoder can be set up using CV's but the Elites dedicated pages make it so much easier! ACCESSORIES These can be programmed like everything else pressing the menu key and setting the address of the decoder. You can see the black arrow in some of the photos above, this is pointing towards control knob 1 so if you press control knob 2 the arrow will point the other way which will operate the point. To operate a point just press the ACC button then either type in the point address or turn the control knob until the address you want appears then press one of the control knobs. Pressing either control knob will switch the point in either direction. If you've named your points once you've selected the address the name will show on the display. There are a number of connections on the back. most are self explanatory, the two Xpressnet ports are for connecting Selects into to be used as walkabout units, it can also be used to connect to the Hornby Booster. The USB port used to connect to a PC for updating the firmware or using as an interface for train control software. DC power input from transformer The Booster connections output a low power version of the DCC track signal into the Hornby Booster. 15v DC Aux output to power lights etc, it will take power away from running trains as this is shared power from the one supply. Conclusion There has been lots of negative comments about the Hornby DCC equipment, some justified and some not really. The Elite is actually a very capable DCC controller and I personally don't think it deserves the criticism it gets. It can do everything thats needed and more with it's dedicated Sapphire Decoder menus, which I have used and set up a loco to run forwards at a set speed for set time, then stop then reverse at a set speed for a set time, then repeat. It worked really well and was very easy to set up using the Sapphire menu(yes you scroll through the other menus and actually there is one called Sapphire!) I've not used the fuel simulation function though. I've used it to program and operate lots of different accessory decoders, it works with all the different types of Loco decoders I've got:- Hornby, TCS, Digitrax, CT Electronik and Bachmann, I think there are a few others in there as well. Never had any problem with reading or writing the CV's. I've used it extensively on my exhibition layout, two Hornby Selects are connected to it as walkabouts these are at the front of the layout and the Elite is at the back behind a touch screen also connected to a PC running Hornby RailMaster software. I've had the odd lock up where the children playing with everything has sent it to overload but just pressing the E-Stop has sorted it out. It does get a bad press which I think is a bit unfair as it is an easy to use controller once you get used to all of the different menu structures and there are a few. Programming CV's is no hard ship and once it's done, it's done, it's not like you buy the controller with it's only function is to change CV's if so you don't need a controller as it's not the best way to do it, IMHO The main concern with a controller is how it stands up when you are actively running which is what you will spend most of your time doing and this works great. It would be nice if you could operate two locos at once one on each controller but it takes a second to press the other control knob and run a different loco. Updating the firmware can be tricky you need to follow the instructions to the letter or it just won't work, and when it fails the Elite doesn't even power up!! But you can keep trying and eventually it will reprogram, if all else fails it can be sent to Hornby for them to upgrade it. I've always managed to update mine without issue, maybe as I have an old Windows XP system it just works. The biggest negative for me is the function control it really is a nightmare, not fluid or quick by any stretch of the imagination, it's the worst thing in my opinion about the controller. I would much prefer Hornby release a 28 button keypad that can plug in the Xpressnet port and that is used to control functions, that would be ideal. If you have sound locos, operating all of those sound functions with this will drive you insane, which is a real shame as apart from that it is actually IMHO a very good capable controller.

MRC or Model Rectifier Corporation based in USA are the manufacturers of the Prodigy Express and Advanced² controllers amongst other things. Gaugemaster buy them and rebadge them and put their own colours on them here in the UK. The latest model is the MRC Prodigy Explorer a simple starter DCC controller. When I asked Gaugemaster it wasn't on their list of stock items so I don't know if they will add it or not. MRC Prodigy Explorer. A console type system. Firmware can't be upgraded as far as I know. Can be used with the other Prodigy Hand sets Supplied with a SMPS 15v 2amps. It is supplied with an American type 2pin lead to figure 8 connector that plugs into the transformer part. I already had a 13amp plug to figure 8 connector cable spare so just used this, they can be bought online for a few quid or you buy the Gaugemaster one for I think about £9. Yes it's a 2amp max output system, but you can send it back to MRC and for $59 they will upgrade it to a 4amp system. It can control 4 locos, to operate the loco press the LOCO button followed by its address 1, 2, 3 or 4 the LED at the top next to the address number will light to tell you which loco you're controlling. Control knob for speed control and direction arrows to change direction, all really simple stuff. So you put a loco on the track but don't know what address it is, remembering this controller can only operate locos with addresses 1, 2, 3 or 4 it's dead easy to change the address, place loco on the track press the P button to enter program mode both direction LED's turn on to indicate program mode. press LOCO button input the address you want the loco to be 1, 2, 3 or 4 after a few seconds it will program the address and revert to operation mode. You need to remove all locos from the track when programming the address, those that are on the track will all be programmed to the same address. This little controller will operate ALL 28 functions, F0-F9 just press numbers 1 to 9 for F10 to F28 press the SHIFT button followed by the full number. You can leave a loco running in the background and press LOCO followed by the address of a different loco, if the speeds are different the newly selected loco will try to run at the set throttle speed, a bit of a shocker if the last loco was running at full speed, the newly selected one tries to run off pretty quickly!! I just select a loco that's not assigned an address change the speed control knob then select the loco I want, as a work around. Now the thing about this controller is it can write to all CV's by using PoM. So if you select a loco you can program this loco's CV's only press P button then CV number then ENTER enter the CV value you want then press ENTER takes a second or two but that's it. So other locos can be running as it will only change the CV's of the loco that you've currently addressed OK you can't read CV's but being able to write to them is very useful in a little simple controller like this. It's not too difficult to write down the CV number and what you've programmed it to anyway. As you can see there are very few connections, the green plug is the output to the track, next to that is the input from the power supply. On the front you can see a socket for the Hand Held Cabs that can be plugged in. Yes you can carry on using this by plugging in one of the Prodigy Advanced² hand held Cabs, this then enables you to control accessory decoders and 4 digit addressing, consisting etc (remembering that the Explorer will still only operate locos 1, 2, 3 or 4!) The hand held cab will run any of them! You can also plug in the USB PC interface or even the Wireless conversion set, which means you can have the wireless cab. Conclusion. A very simple and easy to use controller, I bought it to use on my exhibition layouts for the children to use. Having used many controllers, I have found that most of the children do prefer to use a traditional speed control knob type of controller, I think the hand held cabs are a little too big for some of their hands and with all the buttons on a little off putting. Not saying this is true of all the children who come and play with the layouts and with a little more time and tuition they will not doubt be fine, but at an exhibition you don't have that sort of time. It's also nice that you can upgrade the power on this little unit although at 2amps it will run 3 or 4 OO loco's I've only used it on my N-gauge locos and it runs 3 no problem. I do like the fact in can operate all 28 functions, like most of the others not that fluid and needs a few button presses to operate all functions and no ability to select momentary or latching. Also it's not a dead end system, you can plug one of the hand held controllers in and have most of the options available. What is lacking is the program track mode, if you plan on doing lots of decoder installs then you really do have to be careful as a program track lowers the power to give you a chance of checking your installation without blowing up the decoder! With this it's PoM so full power no second chance. Also you can't read CV values, for me personally this has never been an issue, I tend to only alter the standard ones anyway and never really go into any of the others, so CV3, 4 (acceleration , Deceleration) CV 2, 6 and 5 for the minimum, middle and top speed settings. With this controller if you do have a sound loco at least you will be able to alter the volume level! Got to say though it's a great little controller and at least you can reset decoders with it as it can program CV's Don't know if Gaugemaster will buy this one and rebadge it, but I bought it from a shop advertising on Ebay I think with shipping and all the import duty and taxes it was about £85 so I don't think that's bad value for money for what it can do. I haven't tried my wireless conversion set or a tethered hand held cab for it yet to see how it works with that, but will need to check and update as and when I get chance. Saying that there are other controllers I would like to buy and try! Cheers Ian

Have you had any of the bodies printed off in FUD? How much difference is there is the smoothness between the FUD and WSF ? Cheers Ian

Suzie I think you're taking that way too far. Who 's the peer that will review it, who will lock each thread? Then a link to a discussion thread so that there can be pages of discussion about an individual DCC controller. Nobody will ever write a review! It's for owners to write down their opinion of using the the system, I doubt any of us are professional reviewers or writers, nothing would ever get finished if it's done the way you describe. Now you've mentioned that, it looks like the two I've done are way too involved. It was supposed to be a simple short quickish review of the DCC controller that each person owns and uses. It will be better to just write down what the manufacturer spec sheet says, and then write down our own findings For Example:- It can operate 28 functions but it involves lots of button presses, ie if I want to operate function 21 I have to press X, Y & Z It can read & Write CV's which is does really well, you only need to do this then that. I think that way, all the individual is doing is writing down what the manufacturer says it can do and then your own personal thoughts on how well it does them. You can't pull someone up because of their own personal view, and if that's the way the controller operates, that's the way it is. You mentioned on my E-Z Command review that it's not PoM but service programming, well that's great but it doesn't say that in the manual! I read the manual that Bachmann supply with the controller and it states that it uses PoM so if you buy and fit a decoder make sure it has the ability to program on the main, it also says remove all locos off the track or they will all be programmed to that address. You say Bachmann are wrong, have you told them that so they can rewrite the manual correctly. Really sorry, from reading your other posts I know you have loads of knowledge on the DCC systems but this is not about pulling people apart for writing down their findings of the system and possibly getting a few technical details a bit wrong. It's about what owners actually think about using that system the good points and the bad. Maybe just a few photos so people can see what it looks like, a photo showing the possible connections, what the specs are supposed to be and the owners findings. Cheers Ian

Hi Jay, That sounds like a good idea. The two I've done maybe too in depth as most of that is found in the manual. Hence not wanting to give a format. Like you say short and simple, number of functions, what programming can it do, how it responds, can it be integrated into the next system or is it a standalone item so to move on you need to buy something else, etc Then as you say free text where you can put in what you like and dislike about it, what you would do to improve it. As you say if you started to talk about the PowerCab and even more so the ECoS you could be there for hours explaining all the features!! This is more of a I use X, Y and Z on this system and its great for doing that, but doing A, B and C is a bit of a faff but the other things are more important to me so its OK. I prefer this type of controller to the other types etc? Hopefully more reviews will follow which will be great especially from owners. Yes I could do the PowerCab as well, I've had one for years, still haven't bought the latest EEPROM chip for it yet to increase the recall stack! Thanks Ian

Do you want hand held Like the Lenz set or console type? For O gauge sound fitted I'm guessing you will need more power than any of the 1amp starter sets. As you want it cheap I would seriously look at the new ACE from Sig-na Track:- New DCC controller "ACE" from Sig-na Trak Released on 20th Jan. Why, because of the full touch screen with all 28 function buttons showing, making easy function operation. Also has a 3.5amp power supply, which is I'm guessing what you will need. Further expansion is on it's way, being a new system Fraser the designer is open to suggestions on things that you would like to make it better or more suitable to you. Obviously I don't have one connected to it in any way, but it does seem like a very good solution. There are other systems out there but you did mention cheap, and as you've got sound this does look like it will be the easiest system to operate all 28 functions, in my opinion. Depends on what you prefer in the way of controllers. Cheers Ian

Hi Mick, I could do, it's difficult to know the best format. I just write down what I've found and how it's performed. I'm not a professional reviewer or writer so wanted to leave it a bit free so that all DCC users who have a system can put down there thoughts. The two I've done so far seem to be very similar in approach and most can follow that type of format. I just thought it would be nice to have one thread where it's just reviews on systems that we as users have actually bought and are using. I think it's more relevant to others then who are starting to look at DCC, more so if us as users put down what we do and don't like about our system. I will give it some thought and see if I can come up with something. Thanks Ian

This Review is for the Hornby Select controller. Before starting this I would just like to point out that this controller has received lots of negative comments because it's not NMRA compliant. Some of the NMRA specifications have not been met by this controller so it's only classed as compatible. In the early days there were lots of reports that it wouldn't work with some manufacturer’s decoders, amongst other things. I've had one of these from very early on and never had any issues with it. I have lots of different decoders and all have worked fine, but that's just my findings other people definitely have had issues. Hornby Select Console type DCC controller FIRMWARE:- Can be upgraded by sending back to Hornby a small charge applies. Basic 1amp starter system as supplied in the Hornby Digital train sets. It can't read CV's and writing CV's is very limited to a very basic starter system. On first powering up, the display will flash 15-30-03 This relates to the following:- 15 is the software version so in this case V1.5 (latest version as at time of writing) 30 is the hardware version number and 03 is the loco address it defaults to. This controller can control digital locos(those equipped with a decoder on addresses 1 to 59) It can control one DC loco on address 0 (again running DC locos on DCC is not advised as it can damage the motors) This controller can also control accessory decoders from addresses 61 to 99 To operate a loco and you don't know it's address, place the loco on the track press and hold the SELECT button until LA flashes on the display(loco Address) then type in the address you want for that loco from 1 to 59, which ever address you type in will be displayed on the LCD, then press the SELECT button again, the red LED will flash maybe 7 times, if it flashes more then try reprogramming it. The loco will now run on the address you've just entered, the left and right arrows are for changing direction, when pressing either one the green LED below will light up to show which direction it's going in. If you have a few locos on the track and you know the address you can just type in the address and press the SELECT button and you will then run that newly selected loco, if you've been running for a while you will have stored up a number of locos in the memory, so you can just press the SELECT button and it will scroll through all the locos that are in the memory, when arriving at the address you want which is shown on the LCD display will allow you to control that loco. The Select controller can hold 10 locos in the memory, if you add more than that one of the others will be dropped out of the memory and you will need to type that address in again. The Select can also do consists, without having to have both locos on the same address, I can't say anything about this as I've never tried it. The Select is also capable of some basic programming, it can adjust the acceleration and deceleration of the loco, this is very easy to do. Place the loco on the track you wish to change, press and hold the SELECT button until LA flashes, enter the address of the loco, then press the left arrow button, the display will flash AC for acceleration, enter a number between 1 to 99 then press the select button. If you've entered a high number the loco will take a long time to speed up. The same procedure is used for programming Deceleration but instead of pressing the left arrow you press the right arrow at which point the display will show dE for deceleration. The Select controller can also change the default forward direction, so you can have the green direction LED swapped so for example you want the left arrow green LED to show forwards direction for all locos this can be changed using the controller. You can also select the different speed steps that you want to use. With the latest firmware V1.5 you can now control all 28 functions. To operate a function type in the function number followed by the FUNCTION button, the display will flash "On" for on, type the function number again and press the FUNCTION button the display will flash "Of" for off. If you have say a whistle or bell, these tend to run for a set time then stop, if you wish to operate that function again you will need to type in the function number and press the FUNCTION button which will flash up "Of" then do it again to switch it back on. The Select can't set or use momentary buttons, they are either on or off, a bit of a faff, but at least there is all 28 functions now available. There are a number of connections on the back of the unit:- Very easy and quick spring release clamps, the two wires output to the track, Xpressnet connection, this allows an RJ12 connector cable to be plugged in so that other Selects can be plugged into it and used as extra controllers, these Select's that are plugged into the Master Select are known as Walkabouts, I don't know why as they are not exactly handheld controllers! The Master Select is the only one that has the power pack plugged into it, all the other "Walkabouts" are only connected via the Xpressnet connection. When plugging in the Walkabout it will display HC on the display you need to input and address for this, as you can add a maximum of 8 Walkabouts I just address the first one as 1 then press the SELECT button. I use the correct Hornby R8266 connecting cable as it needs to be a twisted pair, if you use a flat cable it doesn't work, I've tried this hence why I have the correct cable! It also allows the Select to be connected to the Hornby Elite, so if you do want to stick with the Hornby System the controller can still be used as an extra controller. I've used this set up extensively on exhibitions and it works really well. Next is the 15v DC power input the Select is supplied with a small light weight SMPS giving 15v DC 1amp. You then have the 15v DC aux output connections, this is to supply accessories with 15v DC so it could be used to power lights etc you must remember though, that if you put too much load on the auxiliary connection you will reduce how much power you have to run locos, as it's all supplied from the one power supply! A note on the overload protection, the Select is designed to work with the 4amp power supply so you can easily add more power by just buying that. The issue is, the Select will show OL (overload) on the LCD only if there is a short circuit when the 4amp power supply is connected. If you have a short circuit when it's connected to the standard 1amp power supply then you are relying on the overload protection of the power supply, Select will restart at first, if it's still present, then the LCD display will be dim or characters missing. ACCESSORY CONTROL As per my initial note above about being DCC compatible, it is probably wise to use the Hornby accessory decoder, as I know this works very well, although I have managed to use other decoder types, it can get messy and awkward. Using the Hornby accessory decoder R8247 is straight forward, connect the track output to the track input of the AD(accessory decoder) Press and hold the SELECT button until LA flashes, then type in the address of 61, the red light will flash 7 times again if it flashes 8 or more try reprogramming it again. This has now set the four outputs to 61, 62, 63 & 64, if you have another AD to put on the layout, you would address this from 65, which will automatically address the 4 outputs as 65, 66, 67 & 68. To operate the accessory decoder, just type the address of the output and press the left or right arrow keys, to move the point left or right depending on which way you operate the point P5 or P6 will flash on the display. This works very well and I've used this on my exhibition layout. Personally I really don't like operating points via the controller, its great to set it up that way as there is very little wiring but like most controllers as soon as you type in the accessory address you are not in control of a loco. Also I much prefer to use separate switches it just seems more fun and realistic to me. CONCLUSION As a starter system it is what it is and works as expected. I've never had a problem with it running on it's own or connected as a Walkabout unit to another Select or the Elite. It's a real shame Hornby didn't get it NMRA compliant and with the issues of the early versions it has got a very poor name. I personally don't think it's as bad as people make out and having used one for years on an exhibition layout that children play with I think that speaks for itself. It's also nice that you don't have to get rid of it, if you go for the Hornby Elite as it can be used as an extra controller remembering that it will only use addresses 1-59 for locos and 61 to 99 for accessory addresses. The function operation is fairly clumsy like most of the controllers I've used and unless you have a really big controller with all 28 buttons on there for easy access it's always going to be a compromise. Not being able to write CV's can be a pain, for this type of controller it would be nice to be able to write all CV's, doesn't need to be able to read, but write so you can at least do a decoder reset or change the volume level on sound decoders. Remember, if you wish to comment or add further information please post in the Questions or information relating to the DCC controllers list thread and in that thread post a link to here, that way it will keep this thread clean and will only have DCC controller reviews. Thanks Ian

I have seen the two questions mentioned by RON and Suzie. link below:- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106867-dcc-controller-list-basic-review-by-owners/?p=2156772 I don't want to reply in that "DCC controller list thread" or it will become one review and loads of comments which when it gets to some of the more feature rich controllers will make it hard going when wanting to just read through the various controllers that folks own. I have amended my review to say the FIRMWARE is not upgradeable, I should of been more specific, just took it for granted. Suzie did mention that it could be upgraded with the Booster or adding the Command Companions. Which is true, but not sure what I can put to say it's not a controller that can be used in another system, unlike the POowerCab that can be used in it's big brother so everything is used for the future. Also mentioned was about CV19 for double heading, unfortunately that's what I didn't want to happen in that thread, it's great information but has nothing what so ever to do with the E-Z Command as it can't write to CV's. Hence if you have questions or further information relating to any of the reviews people write if you put them in here and post a link to the review it will keep that thread clean for just reviews. I will check for any comments in this thread for any of the reviews I write and amend them as required. Like I say I don't want to fill the other thread up with replies then counter replies as I think it will lose what could be a really good thread for those wanting to know about the different DCC systems out there from those that are currently using them. Thanks Ian

Hi, So the DCC controllers list thread doesn't become filled with replies or comments, and only lists the DCC controllers that members actually own so can post a review of their experience, if you do have something to add or a new improvement that's been announced put it in here with a link to the review. Hopefully that should make it easier for those wanting to just look at DCC systems without all of the other replies or comments which can be put in here. Also members who do post a review can look in here and Edit details as required. Obviously if it's an extra item that you don't own and have not used you can only make a note of it in the review. I will ask the MODs if they can make these two threads sticky so its easy to find. Cheers Ian

I thought I'd start this thread as a list of DCC controllers. Many forum members have different systems and I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea if we had a single thread with basic reviews of the systems we have. This is not a I have this controller because it's better than that one, it's basically a review written by an owner, hopefully we can all add to it with our own views on the systems we own, be it good or bad. If you can include what the system is such as handheld, console, wireless(radio or infra-red) PC based etc. Power supply, such as Volts and amps as this helps with how many locos it can run. Then your own personal findings how you use it, what things you don't use or like or improvements that you would like if you were to improve it. Hopefully we can then have a single thread with USERS reviews of the different DCC systems out there which will I think be a useful resource. If there are any questions by other members it might be better to start a new thread in the Questions or information relating to the DCC controllers list thread in there you can post a link to the review in question, that way this thread can stay clean and just contain DCC system reviews. Here's the first! Bachmann E-Z Command. Console type system Firmware :- Can't be upgraded. Basic 1amp system as supplied in the Bachmann digital train sets. The E-Z Command is a very basic DCC system, it can't read or write CV's but will allow locos fitted with a decoder to be re-addressed by using PoM or programming on the main. You must remove all locos from the track apart from the one you want to program, or it will reprogram all those on the track! It is a fairly bullet proof system and has been around for years. I really like it for it's simplistic use and the nice large round speed control knob and it's reliability. It can't control any accessories such as points decoders, it's purely for controlling locos. You can run 10 digital locos assigning them addresses 1 to 10 or you can run 9 digital locos on addresses 1 to 9 with a DC loco on address 10. It is possible to plug the power supply into a basic Bachmann DC controller, then taking the link wire from the track output from this controller and plugging into the E-Z Command DC Controller input. This way you can use the DC controller to control the DC loco and still use addresses 1 to 10 for digital locos. I have never been able to get that to work correctly! As it's possible to damage DC locos running them on DCC it's not really ideal anyway. You can also operate functions, press the address of the loco you want say number 3 if you now press the yellow function button the LED next to number 3 will flash, this shows that loco 3 is under control and it's flashing because you're in function mode. Pressing button 10 will turn the direction lights on/off if fitted, F1 to F8 will control functions that are assigned to these function numbers in the decoder. In the box the controller comes with the link wire for the DC controller to the E-Z Command, a 240v to 16v ac transformer. It also has a clear plastic cover and some ID labels which fit on the controller between the address buttons. I measured this up and printed off my own so you could see which Loco was on which address:- This photo shows my printed off label, I have put DC loco only on address 10, but as you can see it does show a lamp, so if controlling a digital loco you press the yellow button to turn on function mode and then press button 10 and the direction lights can be switched on off. You can do a consist but both engines have to be set to the same address, never tried this so I can't say how effective this is. There are a few connections on the back:- The I/O port is for a Command Companion to plug into, this looks identical to the E-Z Command but has no power point and comes in a black plastic case. It comes with a cable to plug in to this port, this allows two locos to be controlled simultaneously one loco on each controller, I have tried this and it does work really well. You can also control the functions of each loco on the two controllers as well. The track output is the two wires that go to the track the lead is supplied, it has the brass track connecting clips on one end and both wires go to the 3.5mm jack plug, this breaks fairly easily I've found and it takes a bit of working out where the wires need to be soldered in a new plug. the next port is for the 16vac 1amp power supply which can run 4 OO locos, although they were standard and not Heljan heavy ones or Sound fitted which may reduce the amount you can run. The last port is for the link wire which runs from the DC controller. CONCLUSION All in all a bullet proof DCC controller which does what it says on the box. It would be better to have a plug & Socket or terminals for the track connections as the jack plug can get damaged. The DC connection I've never managed to get working, although not too much of an issue as I don't like to run DC locos on DCC. The 16v AC power supply gives out a huge voltage to the rails, I measured it at about 20volts. I've never had an issue but this to me is very high, more so when using it for N-gauge. Obviously Bachmann supply this, but for MY peace of mind I bought a different power supply with different outputs so I could lower the voltage going in which reduced the track voltage to about 15v. For a start in DCC you can't really go wrong with the E-Z Command, when bought in a set it's the cheapest way of getting started in DCC and you will not lose money on it as you can easily sell it if wanting to upgrade to a better system. If your happy with the limits of the system you won't want to change, it's that easy to use. Cheers Ian EDIT:- The I/O port can also be used for connecting the Smart Interface which will allow smart phones to connect to it and be used as handset controllers. Thanks Ron for the information. http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/docs/E_Z_Command_Smart_Interface.pdf

I wonder how many are available in this first batch?

Mike, From what I can gather it will mid January release. As it's a new system, ask if he could do a different type of driver cab at a later date, which could have a speed control/separate brake control like the Zephyr might be a way to get almost what you want. Cheers Ian

Hi people, I have got so much on I'm never going to get this finished. A bit gutted as I was looking forward to it, but I have to be realistic and start to slim down everything I'm doing, what with a log cabin with 3 layouts in, a garage with two uncompleted layouts in and a spare bedroom with another layout in, it's time to take stock of what I'm doing as it's getting out of hand, plus I would actually like to stay married! I have all issues and binders up to current issue 63. I've assembled the body and cab, although the cab isn't fixed to the body. I have used super glue, so if required a bath in hot water will no doubt allow it all to fall apart and it can then be cleaned of the lacquer for soldering if you wanted to. I also happen to have two spare cab etches that are still unwrapped and a complete spare body with valences and nose, again still in the plastic pack attached to the issue. Looking for sensible offers, it's actually up to over £500 spent now. I know I won't get anything near that but perhaps a couple of hundred quid would be OK plus P&P as the box will need to be big to get all the parts and binders in. Just PM me if you or someone you know is interested. You could quite easily carry on the subscription from this part as it's all complete and up to date and I won't cancel anything until it's sold. This is how it still looks:- Cheers Ian

Couldn't find it! Maybe the mods can merge the two.

I thought I'd put this here so those who haven't seen it can. It is on the GFB designs web site, but thought it would be easier to see and comment here. I think it looks like a very nice controller when it's available, which should be mid Jan 2016 The CV programming side looks to be really easy to use along with the nice big touch screen to access all the functions. I have no connection with the company just an interested person in another DCC controller. ACE_DCS2044_Brochure_V2_1.pdf What do others think? Cheers Ian

Ron, The information you cut out and quoted about the "Command Bus Protocol adapter is exactly what I quoted in an Email to DCC Concepts. The reply was, that as the Hornby systems don't have CABS that can plug in it will only work with the Alpha box. I did state that you can plug in Selects to the Elite or Selects to Selects and they all have to be addressed with their own number, so it should work. I was trying to find out if I could use that Roco or Xpress-net interface kit, so one end plugs into the Select or Elite the other end has the socket to take the RJ12 curly cable that comes with the Cobalt Alpha. Didn't get an answer to that. The manual is confusing which I did mention, it really does look like it's promoting the Alpha Black box and the Alpha Power(the 5amp power supply) to connect the Cobalt Alpha to any DCC system. Unless of course you have the NCE system then you can do anything. Still not enough CORRECT information out there at present. Cheers Ian

I've been told by DCC Concepts you need the Alpha Black box for it to work with Hornby systems. £59.95 for the Alpha panel £125 for the Alpha Black box(Smart Booster) then a suitable power supply for the black box, not cheap. The alpha central which is the ready made switch panel is £155 I couldn't find this manual on the DCC web site it was sent to me, it's 11.5MB so this link is to my BOX account for those that are interested:- https://app.box.com/s/o5iv9k06updcoptptsoz3rot1hqntz42 Cheers Ian

Mike, The Zephyr Xtra or DCS51 has all 28 functions available. Just go to the Digitrax web site and read the manual first to see how you operate functions, it might not be as easy as you want it to be. You say the Elite which most people do not yet have? the Elite has been out for years, although it wasn't until firmware V1.4 that it became much more function usable, and that firmware was released at least a year ago. Cheers Ian

It's quite interesting to read about function operation as I don't think any controllers do it that well. Apart from the ESU ECoS due largely to the fact that most of the functions are on the nice large display and can be pressed so very easily. Every other controller I've used needs a few presses of buttons to get to the higher function numbers. I have the ZTC 611, NCE PowerCab, Bachmann EZ-Command, 3x Hornby Select's, Hornby Elite, RailMaster and the Prodigy Explorer. For my Large OO oval that uses the ZTC, none of the locos have sound. For programming CV's I always seem to use the PowerCab as it makes it so much easier for CV programming. For everyday running of my small layouts, it's The Selects, Explorer or EZ-Command. As I don't need to do anything apart from speed up or slow down forwards/backwards then I don't actually need anything else from the controller. The Prodigy Explorer is actually a great little controller. It does only control 4 locos, but can access all 28 functions and can program on the main(can't read only write) You can also plug in any of the Prodigy Advanced handsets to turn it into a fully featured system, you can even plug in the wireless conversion set. For me these very simple controllers are great, as the layouts I build are small so normally only one loco running at any one time and at exhibitions they are for the kids to use and play with so having a complex almost daunting big touch screen or hand held cab full of buttons just doesn't work. The Elite is actually not too bad, a bit too menu driven but works well enough and the function operation isn't too bad compared to some I've used, it's just a real shame they didn't allow it to run two locos at once, like the ECoS so you could turn each controller to operate two different locos. What does all this say to me, well basically we don't need the actual loco controller to do anything but control the loco. I think a simple controller which actually just drives the loco but without any other purpose, it's there to drive the loco and that's it. The controller can then be made to give the best driving experience just as the ZTC 611. A separate plug in unit which has a nice big display so that this can be used to operate functions and accessories to make that much easier as well. When I've been to exhibitions with the Elite connected up to RailMaster, the Elite or Selects are used to operate the trains. The laptop running RailMaster is connected to a nice big touch screen which makes accessories and function operation so much better. I don't see an easy way round this although the new ACE controller from Sig-na Trak does look rather good, but the hand controllers are just like a standard cab control, but the touch screen and future options sound interesting. http://rs.209492.mrsite.com/ACE_DCS2044_Flyer_V1_1.pdf Cheers Ian

The latest update from Graham:- 30.11.15. The new engineer has already put right the problems that the last person had tried to modify and things are NOW going to start moving on. more good news as it comes, Graham. So hopefully upgrades and new controllers should again be available, but who knows when? Still at least things are now moving forward. Cheers Ian

That's what I thought, a modification not a complete redesign. I have no idea what the mod is for though. From reading the website it looks like they've had some grief from the guy who was doing the work for them though. One's things for sure I bet Graham and Pat want this done ASAP so they can start selling them and getting the upgrades done, you can't get any investment back when you don't have anything to sell, must be a real nightmare to get this far then get let down like this. I believe the software updates will still be valid for both boards, and as I far as I know the latest version is V16 Which came out a while ago now. I must say I've not had any issues with my 611 at all. Works perfectly OK reads and writes CV's controls and programs the Cobalt Digital point motors so all good. Cheers Ian

I can only echo the above. It just goes to prove that you don't need a massive huge show for everyone to have a great time. It really did feel like a club show, it was that friendly and relaxed.(although not for the staff that looked after us all day many thanks!) Well done Andy for organising a great show, your pupils can give you a gold star now. Someone did mention about why it wasn't on for two days!!!!!!!! Look forward to next year if you will have me. Cheers Ian

Must be me as I can't see what you and obviously others can see. Like you say everyone will have their own opinion. I just needed to see and compare because of earlier comments made in this thread by a few members I thought it had the nose of a Flying Scotsman it was that bad! Obviously to me it's not that bad and I personally think it looks great, even if the Nose does look a bit like a Minion Cheers Ian

I'm just wondering what the major issue is with this model? From normal or in fact any viewing distance, it really doesn't look that big a problem to me. In fact apart from the light missing I really can't see what the issue is. Probably really obvious and it's late or early depending how you look at the time :-)