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bertiedog

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Posts posted by bertiedog

  1. As requested, photos of the original, ( three rail ) version, the original motor, which is 5 pole, and the gearbox, with the contrate and spur gear drive to the front axle. The chassis is cast, with drop in wheels sets, that could be sprung if you wanted, and the three rail pick-up on the base plate.

     

     

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    The buffers retained the chassis to the body, the screwed shanks bear on tabs on the chassis to retain it.

     

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    The very odd shaped safety valve cover, why so bad?

     

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    Impressed numbers on the plates, badly aligned, as were the GWR letters, gilding was added as they were struck with the die stamp.

     

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    Casters marks., J.V.M. Birmingham.

     

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    View of underside, lots of space, and poor painting!

     

    Stephen.

    • Like 1
  2. Some later Gaiety castings have a matching area at the back to take the Tri-ang chassis mounting lugs, added as an extra by JVM, I presume to Castle Arts request. The buffers were solid, not screwed on like the earlier ones.

     

    Some other model railway makers of the 1950's period supplied Tri-ang conversions, Hamblings for one, with a stamped out brass bracket. Stewart Reidpath did a lead cast chassis conversion, to take a Romford motor, and Hamblings wheels, in OO. By the time this was made, Stewart Reidpath were part of Hamblings company.

     

    The number of cast bodies made far outstrips the number of RTR versions. A lot remained unsold at closure of Castle Arts model railway production, and one Ebay advert even sells the undecorated bodies at the moment! I think all production ceased about 1958 or thereabouts, so 50 years old.

     

    Stephen.

  3. Good running with a Gaiety usually indicated the chassis had been changed to the same Vintage Tri-ang 060, often the early solid wheeled variety.

     

    The producer of the GWR Pannier 5700 locomotive was Castle Arts Products, I believe hailing from Nottingham, who sold novelty items and toys, and developed an interest in Model Railways. They did a 062 as well, and it is rumoured other locos from a different caster. They also did some rolling stock, but this was never widely sold.

     

    The body was cast by JVM of Birmingham, who were car parts makers and still in business making precision castings, or at least till recently. They also made Hamblings parts, like the wheel press and the track gauge, cast in Mazak, a zinc alloy.

     

    Unlike Graham Farish the zinc is relatively soft, not the hard type that G/F used. the design was quite good for the day, early 1950's , and the motor was a five pole of substantial size , with strong magnets and decent over all outline. I think the main armature was bought in from Taycol.

     

    The troubles began with the motor bearings, very crude and wore badly, also the chassis was far too sophisticated for its own good. The chassis was die-cast, but the sides were too thin for bearings and they wore rapidly. The design however was sound in outline, and the chassis could be converted to full springing as it stood, leaving just the driven axle at the front un-sprung.

     

    The drive is via spur gears, and a contrate gear driven by a pinion on the motor shaft. The design is good, and the gears OK, but the chassis was not well fitted and the gears could come out of mesh. Easily fixed by the owner, especially if the chassis was changed to the Tri-ang.

     

    Castle Arts realised the chassis had problems and marketed the body as a "Kit" to fit the Tri-ang. It seems the body was modified several times in production over about 8 years or so.

     

    The last ones were altered to make the fit of the Tri-ang chassis easier. The original chassis was held in placed by the ends on the threaded shafts of the buffers, they were simply unscrewed to remove the body.

     

    Three rail versions were offered and were the most popular, as Hornby had no GWR loco in production. The Gaiety all had cast chromed wheels, quite reasonable for the time.

     

    The safety valve is the only really bad feature, quite what made them model it so badly is very odd, as the rest is accurate within the design limits.

     

    The often quoted problem of the square windows is down to making the moulds cheaper, and of course later 5700 Panniers had square windows! the interior of the body is "open plan" plenty of space available. The original motor was so big it occupied the cab, and fitting a smaller one is a priority to allow full cab detail to be added with crew etc.

     

    I often got customers having the old locos modified to newer standards, Romford or Hamblings wheels, and one was an early 1967 conversion to P4, as this one will be, as I do not run OO at home these days.

     

    The "Duck" , the Rev Audry's loco is based on the Gaiety 060, he had one with a replacement chassis.

     

    The finish of the paint was not wonderful, no undercoat and poorly impressed GWR lettering and stamped numbers on the cab side.

     

    However the castings are sound, and with a few brass additons will detail it to a reasonable standard, with better running and no trace of FE parts in it !! I expect the Motor will be German, a coreless type, but using the gears as made by Gaiety, with the exception that the contrate may be changed to an Ultrascale version in plastic to be quieter, we shall see later one.

     

    Gibson, Markits , and Ultrascale do the correct wheels, but I have un-machined Hamblings 18mm which will suit, turned to P4 profile. The front wheel remains un-sprung, but the rear pairs can be sprung easily, same as the original could be.

     

    Some pictures to follow soon,

     

    Stephen

  4. Start of the work, the awful cast safety valve removed in the miller, and also the chimney reduced to use only the base, with a new turned top half.

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    The edges and the cab roof have been smoothed over, ready for a brand new brass roof, and the cab windows to be corrected to round type to match the cab style. The steps can be used, with brass steps added to the cast backs.

    Next job is to remove all the cast one handrails etc., this will have to be done with needle files by hand, then the plates and GWR impressed letters filled and sanded smooth.

    Stephen

  5. Are you really going to P4 and detail one of these :O ? Its got a very passing resemblance to a 57xx at best - smokebox saddle is wrong, bunker is wrong, roof is wrong, boiler top is flat more like the 64xx instead of raised. You'd be better off starting from scratch for an accurate model, is it an historic attachment that you want to run this for?

    Hope that doesn't offend or anything im just curious why you'd start from here for a P4 model?

     

    Detail photos http://www.warrenshe...r_modelling.htm

     

    It's not so far out as seems, the pannier top is quite all right for dimensions, fully plated but no raised bump, but who cares*, the dome is usable, the saddle is easily corrected with some brass plate, and being all metal is likely to still be here and running in another 50 years, long after plastic commercial FE are long rotted away. As soon as all the fine details are added all round it is actually quite an accurate model, and heavy to boot.

     

    The cab roof is near correct, (on one of them), it just needs a new rounded brass plate top added with details, and the bunker is reasonable, the real ones varied anyway.

    * Wolverhampton didn't, as I have a shot of a 5700 with a flat tank top. They varied a lot.

     

    Stephen.

     

    Ohh and I have done this before, many times! during the 1970's onwards, why bother to scratch build a body when the remains of an older one can be revived?

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    ?© Phil Scott, GNU distribution licensed Photo from Wikipedia.

     

    The type of GWR 5700 Pannier to provide the extra details for the model, the cast Gaiety body has no top feed, round brass opening windows are needed, and decent square based buffers are needed to be made.

     

    I have some un-machined 18mm Hamblings wheels, that can be turned to full P4 standards, so will be using them on the build

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    The chassis will be a brass copy of the original cast chassis , with full springing, and compensaton, with the original drive gears, and a Coreless Motor instead of the original motor. There is a lot of space for that smaller motor, so adding a flywheel as well. it's all well hidden as there are no open sides under the panniers, the splashers being solid to the footplate, and backed by a solid wall, which hide the original motor.

     

    The spur gear to the front axle will be retained, I will pierce it out to allow light through the spokes. I may replace the primary contrate gear with an Ultrascale one in plastic, as it may be quieter, it needs experiment to see what is smoother and quieter.

  7. **IMPORTANT**

    If you have followed this link from an eBay listing please be aware that RMweb or the writer of this post has no connection with the ebay listing concerned. This topic is for information purposes only and is not provided as a reference source for commercial sales

     

    Gaiety Panniers for re-building.

     

    Two models on the bench, one 2 rail in poor condition for a scale re-build, and a three rail version that works fine, but needs attention to the paint etc.,

     

    These were made in the early 1950's, by Castle Arts of Nottingham, a die-cast all metal model body, and chassis, Mazak body and main chassis parts, steel axles, and a five pole motor of substantial size with a gearbox and spur drive to the front axle.

     

    The models were mainly three rail, but were also supplied as two rail with all wheels insulated, and body only to fit the Tri-ang 060 chassis of the period. The original wheels were for 00 track Hornby style, and are chrome plated Mazak, and quite good quality.

     

    The model is of a 5700 GWR Pannier, generally accurate , but with mainly cast on details, and a very odd shaped safety valve cover, which can be changed on the scale version. the other fittings are about right in size, dome , etc.

     

    Numbers and lettering were impressed by hand in to the soft zinc alloy, and gilded over, unfortunately very crudely in most cases. The castings are very good, made by a Birmingham company who specialised in Car parts. Generally they are sound, no cracking or lead contamination, which other makes of the time often suffered from.

     

    The soon to be P4 scale wheeled version is being stripped of all the cast on details, handrails etc., and the plates. replacements with be made for all the smaller details before a re-paint.

     

    Close examination shows that Castle Arts made several versions, the cabs are different width, with different roof edges, the painted one is narrower, and details all over the body are different. The stripped one has guard lamp mountings at the front, and other extra detail, and better tank fillers.

     

    The Cab windows are wrong, they should be round, but were made square as the later type 5700's to make the die cast moulding easier.

     

    The Safety Valve bonnet is just as bad though, and will be removed and replaced with a bronze one., along with tidying up the chimney and top. The body dimensions are generally right, and the Locomotive is going to be fitted with P4 wheels, Gibson's, and full scale brake gear, with a brass chassis and new coupling rods.

     

    The original gear box, with contrate gears,and spur gear drive, is being retained, but with a modern coreless DC motor and flywheel added to the original fittings. The motor will just allow cab fittings to be done, something the original could not, as the magnet was in the cab.

     

    Performance of the original was never much good, the 5 pole motor was a good design, but made with very poor bearings indeed, and ran noisily at best.

     

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  8. A small tip for the novice track electricians, if there is a option, it is to use an old fashioned meter with a needle, they are still made, and give a better go/no go indication at a glance for testing joints.

     

    Digital display is easy for those used to them, but there is time lag in most, and they get confusing, and need study to get the continuity reading when you are new to it.

     

    I keep older needle meters for quick " at a glance" work, and digital for better accuracy when needed.

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Stephen.

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