neal

The drawbar is easy to remove from the peg below the footplate, however the 4pin connector fitting into the socket on the tender is difficult to release. There is not a huge amount of slack in the wires connecting this to the locomotive. N

The plastic lenses to the boxes can be removed to allow installation of the paper codes. This may be carried out carefully with a scalpel, or alternatively attaching a piece of sellotape provides enough tack to remove the lens with a gentle tug (mind the paintwork though). The paper codes need to be trimmed carefully to ensure that they sit flat within the boxes. There is a slight bevel to the edge of the lens, ensure that this is the right way round such that the 'interference fit' works when they are pushed back into the openings. N

The tender is also a completely new tooling, with new chassis design with pick-ups both sides, and accommodating decoder socket and mount for speaker. The draw-bar is akin to the T9 etc with two distance settings, although the closer one will easily allow 3rd radius curves to be traversed. The tender moulding is a lot finer than the Dapol version, and is held in place by a tab at the rear, and two screws at the front. This is easy to remove, and I managed to do this without unplugging the loco connector lead when swapping a decoder. A two part coal moulding is provided. This model is beautiful, and runs very smoothly with all the grace of the big-wheel GW 4-6-0's. Detail in the cab is again very fine with clear sight glasses, and gauges with needles and markings. The speedometer drive (a dummy on the Dapol version) is actually connected to the rear right hand driver, with a rivetted crank fixed to the wheel. I have had a few duffers from Hornby in 2009 (including T9 and Std 4) which have had to be sent back with pieces missing or broken, however this model cannot be faulted. I hope that this indicates Hornby are on top of their quality control problems. Faith restored, and 28xx ordered! N

Now in stock at Hattons, but too late for xmas orders Might need to skate to my local store and have a squiz. N

On the Schools, I had the same issue with Brighton. This was due to the front bogie support bracket being too low, thus lifting the front drivers from the track. Removing the bracket (just one or two screws as I recall), there was a small blob of butyl mastic beneath (which appears to serve no purpose). Removing this allowed the bracket to seat correctly on the chassis, and allowed the bogie to 'float' on it's spring, placing weight on the front drivers (the ones with the tyre!) Subsequently it pulls like a horse, 8 Mk1's no worries. Curiously my Black one didn't suffer this issue. If this is the problem with your's it's an easy fix. N

Sorry Rob, I only just found this posting, the models look great! Glad the Clan runs well. I had three Hornby Std 4's before I got a 'complete' one, and even this has a slight tight spot. Whilst (like you!?) my layout has a 'run anything policy' - with lots of permutations of stock to suit various era's and locations - the Clan doesn't push my buttons. I did however succumb to an LMS Jinty today, which is beautiful. As I have a 'significant' birthday in the new year, I have been asked what I would like. With all the recent releases I really am spoilt for choice for loco's - and CofT is sorely tempting - but I might end up indulging my RC hobby for a change. The snow we now have would be great to test a Rock Crawler! N

I have a picture of 72006 face to face with a GW Hall at Chester, not sure whether this was working back North, or on a scheduled service/special. N

There's some interesting copy about these 'beauties' in: http://www.railwayherald.org/magazine/pdf/RHUK/Issue203.pdf Out today! N

With other nameplate models, I have used thin double sided tape. If the nameplate is placed (face up!!) on the tape when peeled from the roll, this can then be cut around with a fine scalpel leaving the paper to be peeled off the plate with the adhesive face ready to be fixed to the model. The tape (basic sellotape double sided) is very fine and is not evident between plate and model, but allows some adjustment when fixed. Additionally this should not damage the paint finish of the plate if subsequently removed. I have fixed one set of plates with cyano (dutch split headcode 37) - very very difficult and I wouldn't recommend this, although the plates are now well fixed. N

One point I would make of most recent 'standard' offerings where you can see through the frames, is that the top of the chassis block casting is always 'flat'. See: http://www.ehattons....cts/r2846_3.jpg or http://www.ehattons....ts/32-854_3.jpg Whilst I appreciate that proper frames would be uneconomic to fabricate for the volume RTR market, would it not be possible to give the impression of frame thicknesses by adding a shallow rebate to the center of the upper face of the chassis casting. This would give the suggestion of a realistic frame assembly, and may also reduce the reflections that sometimes occur between running plate and chassis. I am not an expert in casting technology, but I would hope that such a feature may be relatively easy to incorporate. Neal

Reverend and the Makers - French Kiss in the Chaos

I saw one yesterday, and it does look very fine. The ponytruck detail is very good, almost like it is articulated! Is there going to be a model of the year poll on this new site? N