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Posts posted by wiggoforgold
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I revisited the 3 way turnout this morning. I’ve replaced the underlay at the edge which had been torn up as a result of some over vigorous wire brushing. I’ve refitted a couple of chairs and tidied up round the tie bars. I’m wondering whether to epoxy a length of plastic rod on top of the tie at between the switch blades to improve appearance and strengthen the joint between the tie bar and switch blades.
The tweaks were follows by another coat of grey primer which works as an aid to me in seeing how it all fits together.
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8 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:
Quite right - nothing worthwhile seems to come for free.
I share your pain with regard to the gluing on of cosmetic chairs to soldered pointwork, but it is definitely worth it.
One thing I have always had to do in OO, is to cut the tops of the inside chairs down a fair way, to ensure that flanges don't bump along. This was a fairly common problem with the older C&L thin sleepered flexi track, Bachmann steam flanges being particularly inconsistent when it came to flange profile and depth.
What I would do now is to insert a tiny packing piece between the bottom of the rail and the top of the copper clad sleeper, to raise the rail height to match a scale 4mm chair.
Re6/6 had some packing pieces etched a few years ago for this very purpose.
To make sure that 00 flanges didn't strike the chairs I have slightly cut down the top of the chairs on the inside of the rail, making sure the top of the chair is below the head of the rail. I've also sanded back the chairs with 400 grade wet and dry paper.
If I was doing the point from scratch I would have used packing pieces between the rails and sleepe, but that wasn't an option with this one because it was already built.
Alex
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Cosmetic chairs fitted to the 3 way point. It took a little time but I think the improved appearance makes it worth it.
Alex
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5 hours ago, MrWolf said:
I'll be keeping them all ticking over whilst I figure out how to make beansticks for the crossing house garden, had a couple of attempts that didn't behave.
I used copper wire - a single strand unwound from the inner of a flexible mains cable.
Alex
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I’ve laid the track. It’s mainly Peco code 75 bullhead on DCC concepts underlay. The exception ids the 3way point, which is scratch built using copper clad sleepers and code 75 bullhead rail.
I fitted the various pieces of track together before gluing anything down. Once I was satisfied with the basic layout, the track was glued to the underlay with Unibond pva. Before gluing the track down, I drilled 1.4” holes in the board beneath the tie bar positions for the actuating wires from the point motors. I also drilled small holes beneath the crossings to feed through the wire to the crossing nose which will allow the crossing polarity to be changed. I also installed the magnets for the Sprat and Winkle couplings.
The 3 way point
This is the key piece of trackwork, and unlike the rest of the track is homemade using copper clad sleepers and code 75 bullhead rail. The advantage of this sort of construction is that the track can be made to “flow” better and is a better fit in the available site. It is strong, and easy to wire up. The downside is that there are no chairs, the rail being soldered direct to the sleepers. The absence of chairs was less of a worry 25 years ago, and the suggestion was that a fillet of solder could be built up between the rail and sleeper giving the impression of a chair, but I have found it difficult to get any consistency of size between the solder blobs, so I am using old C&L chairs as cosmetic chairs, epoxying a half chair on each sleeper. I am glad I only have to do this on one point!
Curving Peco turnouts
I needed a curved turnout and the Peco ones are straight. By cutting the web between the sleepers on the outside of point and beneath the closure rails, I was able to gently curve it round. On the prototype the crossings and switches are straight, so the curvature is only applied to the section of turnout between the crossing and switches. I took care not to disturb the bonding between the switch rails and the stock rails, or where the switch blades joint to the tie bar.
The next stage for the trackwork will be completion of the wiring, and a period of test running, before moving on to painting and ballasting.
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On 25/11/2022 at 22:02, sb67 said:
Thanks Martyn, what did you do to the Ratio coaches?
I was looking at the Generic coaches from Hattons but I cant find LNER teak and I'm not sure of the release date of the BR crimson version. The Hornby ones seem Southern region in origin.
Steve, I got a couple of LNER brown ones. My plan is to reletter them as BR.
Alex
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7 hours ago, KeithMacdonald said:
Good news for any modelling anywhere on the Princetown branch?
In the latest Rapido newsletter:
https://rapidotrains.co.uk/gwr-small-prairie/
Would their B-Set be appropriate as well?
https://rapidotrains.co.uk/gwr-b-set-coaches/
But which era?
GWR
https://rapidotrains.co.uk/product/dia-e140-b-set-gwr-shirtbutton-livery/
or BR
https://rapidotrains.co.uk/product/dia-e140-b-set-br-crimson/
I feel I have done my bit to encourage production of this model. I’m sure if I hadn't made one already an rtr one wouldn’t have appeared so soon. I will of course be having one.
Now, I must finish that Gibson E4 kit. 😊
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1 hour ago, Captain Kernow said:
That Scalescenes paper has turned out rather well, Alex. The building is pretty instantly recognisable for Forest of Dean fans.
Did you make a site visit for the dimensions or make an estimate?
Thanks Tim. I’m pleased with the way the Scalescenes paper tuned out. I looked at the one you’d done for Parkend Marsh which encouraged me to give it a try.
I didn’t do a site visit, there’s lots of pictures of the original on the internet if you search for “Soudley gatekeeper’s cottage”. The ruling dimension is the need to cover the hinge riser on the layout so I worked from that.
Alex
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The next building is the crossing keeper’s cottage. It’s based on the crossing keeper’s cottage at Soudley on the Forest of Dean line.
Unlike the other buildings on the layout, it has a practical as well as a decorative function as it fits over the rear hinge riser where the baseboards fold in the centre. The hinge projects into the roof space, so for this reason the building is hollow, and does not have a false ceiling unlike my other buildings. I plan to add additional corner bracing to compensate.
Basic construction is from 2mm artists mounting board. The ends fit between the sides. The dimensions of the sides were arrived at by reference to the size of the riser, as the building had to be large enough to fit over that. After marking out, the apertures for the doors and windows were cut out. Inner sides were made from the 2mm card, slightly smaller at the top and ends. The apertures for the doors and windows were made 5mm bigger all round. The sides were then assembled.
The stonework is from a Scalescenes sheet. The Scalescenes sheet was printed on Matte photographic paper, given a coat of matt varnish to seal and stuck to the card shell with Pritt. The Pritt is applied to the shell one side at a time, starting at the front. The printed sheet is wrapped round the whole building, starting at the front. The join is at the rear of the building and invisible to the viewer.`Once this is struck down, the window apertures are cut out, and the cut edges are coloured in. I painted them with grey acrylic, but a pencil or felt pen can also be used.
The main widow frames are cut from 10thou plasticard. Glazing bars are added from 0.4mm dia plastic rod, glued behind the frames. An outer frame which fits in to the window aperture was made from 0.6mm plastic rod. Most of the windows are nominally the same size, but I made them up individually, and numbered the apertures and frames so each frame was made to fit a specific aperture. The completed frames were glued in place behind the apertures, with the outer frame fitting in to the aperture. A small amount of Treemendus bark powder was mixed up, and used to blend the frames in to the apertures cover the cut card edges of the widow apertures. When dry this was sanded smooth and carefully painted grey to match the stonework.
Cills are from the Wills building details set, and the brick lintels are Scalescenes brown brick.
More soon.
Alex
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7 hours ago, NHY 581 said:
Aha! Cat's Eyes Mullander....
Might this just be a cover story to hide his expertise with radar?
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I don't think that is a Triang Jinty chassis in the U1. I think it's a re -wheeled Hornby Dublo R1 chassis.
On the subject of transfers, I think Railtech are brilliant. As Steve says above, he often turns orders round in under 24 hours.
Alex
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Such a shame. I had a lovely (if totally unprototypical) picture of a bus (Western National of course) on the accommodation bridge at Yelverton) but I broke my phone and lost it. So sorry 😒
Alex
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On 04/11/2022 at 20:11, mullie said:
Another part of my bookshelf, some books are between 35 and 40 years old and long out of print. As well as East Anglian tomes there are quite a few on the LTS and GE lines into London, both of which I travelled on , the GE lines especially. Another interest are lines around London as I lived in South London near my university and used the East London line a lot as well as the line from London Bridge to Brockley. Of course there are books on Dorset railways especially the Portland branch.
Wild Swan modelling references can be seen and more books off to the right of both photos I have posted. It is quite a useful library with which I can while away many hours. I have some back issues of railway magazines both modelling and prototype, I keep all MRJs but other magazines are not always kept or just the relevant bits. I buy a lot of books secondhand these days, often in immaculate condition.
Gone off at a bit of a tangent!
Interesting. Parts of that bookshelf look rather like mine !
Alex
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Hi Martyn
Most of the traffic will be coal, or stone from the quarry, so possibly not. I’m not sure about other parts of the system.
Alex
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I’ve been giving some thought to the time of year Lydbrook Dean will be set in. Many layouts, including my own previous models, are set in late spring/early summer, when foliage growth is at its height and everything looks very green. I have found this is easier to model effectively as lush swathes of green are easier than the subtleties of changing seasons.
I hankered after doing something a bit different. I was attracted by the idea of something damper and colder. Some of the colour pictures I found of the railways in the Forest of Dean were taken in October/November, and this inspired my choice of season. Autumn offered a much greater variation of colour than the summer months. Thus, it was to be an autumn landscape, set in mid October. The trees will be changing colour and starting to lose their leaves. It has recently rained, and the fallen leaves have mixed with mud and puddles on the ground.
Having decided on what I wanted to do, I made a start by observing the changing landscape over the autumn months, regularly taking a series of pictures of the trees at the bottom of the garden so I could see how they were changing.
I have made a start on the trees. I enjoy making trees, which is fortunate, as this layout requires a lot, even more than its predecessor layout, Yelverton.
I begin with an armature made from twisted florists wire. I use about 26swg, but the exact gauge is not crucial. Some of the larger trees have used some thicker wire in the trunks to impart strength. I had a useful chat with Maggie Gravett at the Minehead show earlier this year, an she showed me how to start from the outer ends of the branches and work down, which gives greater control over the height of the end product. In the past I have started at the bottom of the tree and worked up, using a bunch of wires of equal length. Starting from the top is less wasteful. Two wires together to make a basic branch, and pairs of wires are added to this to this to build up the shape of the tree.
The basic tree is then covered with a bark mix, either Treemendus bark powder, or a slurry made up from Artex and pva glue. Additional twigs can be added to ends of the branches when this is dry by painting the very ends of the branches with pva and adding 6mm static grass.
This is then painted. Sometimes I use an aerosol spray, but this can give quite a blast of air, and a more gentle spray from an airbrush fitted with a regulator to control the pressure of the spray is better. The colour is various shades of brownish grey, the exact shade depending on the species. Birches, for example, are nearly white, and for these I have used a spray of white primer, followed by dry brushing the trunk with a dark grey.
The next stage requires a more subtle approach than for summer trees. My observations showed that as the leaves fell, the trees took on a lighter, airier appearance, and I wanted to replicate this. For some trees I have created a twig structure using teased out “animal wool” (stuffing for ballet shoes I believe), which is teased out in to small clumps, sprayed a brown colour, and applied to the ends of the branches with pva. In some cases I do not use the animal wool, and instead scatter is applied directly to the static grass fibres.
Application of the scatter needs to be done a section at a time. Find a product and colour that works for you. I am currently using Treemendus fine mid summer and late summer scatters and Woodland Scenics dark green fine turf. The twig structure is sprayed with hairspray, a section at a time, taking care not to get any spray on the main trunk. Sometimes I hold a piece of card against trunk to protect it from the spray. Scatter is then gently sprinkled on to the sprayed areas. I start with the middle colour, in this case mid summer and add the lighter late summer scatter on top. Last comes the darker green turf from below. All the scatter should be applied sparingly, taking care not to build up too heave a covering, as we want to crated the impression of branches the leaves have started to fall from. The finished trees are then planted on the layout. I’m currently considering the best positions for the trees and deciding where more need to be added. I’ve done 14 so far, and reckon I need another 25 or so.
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The track at Lydbrook Dean has been temporarily laid in position. I decided to use Peco code 75 Bullhead, like I has used on Yelverton. The only exception is the 3 way point leading to the quarry, which is made with copper clad sleepers. It was originally on a layout built for my son many years ago, so must be about 25 years old. It isn’t stuck in place yet, but has allowed me to consider the track plan before things are stuck down. The only part of the plan not yet finalised is the goods shed siding and head shunt. I’m considering 3 options:
1. Wait until the Peco medium radius points come out.
2. Adapt a couple of Finetrax A5 turnouts by curving them slightly.
3. Make them myself, using crossings and blades from old copper clad turnouts.
Having worked out the position of the track, I have temporarily lifted it again while I work on some of the messier parts of the scenery.
At one end of the layout is a quarry, influenced by Points Hill on the Coleford branch. The loading area is influenced by Marsh sidings at Parkend.
The quarry face and hillside has been built up from polystyrene blocks, cut with a hot wire and glued together with PVA. The rock areas were built up with Plaster of Paris, and the shape of the landform built up with Sculpatmold. I discovered Sculptamold a couple of years ago. It’s like a finely ground tissue paper, impregnated with plaster. It can be sanded once dry and remains workable for much longer than Plaster of Paris. I apply it with a palette knife. It can be smoothed with damp fingers. Being water based, it is very clean to use, and easy to keep in the right place.
The rocks in the quarry area show the effect of having been worked by man. The worked faces are quite regular. I found some videos on You Tube (mainly American, to get some ideas for techniques. I made strata lines in the unworked areas of the rocks by vigorous horizontal strokes from a wire brush. Vertical blast lines in the worked areas were made with vertical strokes of a carving tool held against a steel ruler. The rocks were given a better definition and broken and cracked areas were introduced using a carving tool.
The rocks were painted with washes. First, a wash of matt black (thinned Mig acrylic) was applied, which enabled me to better see the carved rocks and make a few adjustments. Two more acrylic washes were applied, first a brownish grey, then burnt umber. When dry, a final wash of black drawing ink mixed with IPA was applied. This was left to dry overnight. The following morning the rocks were dry brushed with Mig acrylic “matt white”, “new wood” and “faded Sinai grey”. It was then given a coat of acrylic matt varnish to seal. I have found that although I had thought it was dry, the colours have continued to soak in to the palter, giving a pleasing variety of colours to the ro9cks.
The edges of the rocks where they emerge from the earth have been treated to an earth mix made from Artex, PVA, a shot of Mig Dark Earth, a pinch of real dried earth and some earth coloured weathering powder, mixed up with water. It dries quite quickly, very hard and very matt. At some state I’ll try a mix with the addition of some gloss varnish to simulate wet mud.
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Track is down at Lydbrook Dean. It’s just pinned in place at the moment while it settles down and I can decide if any adjustments are needed. Once it’s fixed down I’ll make a start on installing point motors. The first train has run, so I am now “testing”
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The next building for Lydbrook Dean is the ground frame cabin. I used a York Model Making small signal box kit, assembled pretty much from the box, save I replaced the kit slates with ones from Scale Model Scenery as I preferred the colour.
The cabin was sprayed with Humbrol Matt cream, and weathered with a black wash and weathering powders.
The name board is from Phil at the pattern shop.
There is a bit of detailing still to do, and I’ve left the roof loose so I can fit an interior.
Alex
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A bit of tweaking to the track layout. I’ve added a headshunt to the goods shed siding, changed the crossover from facing to trailing, and moved the position of the 3 way point.
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Yelverton is at the Saltash model show today. Here are some pictures of the layout in operation yesterday
I was saddened to learn of the death of Iain Roce yesterday. Yelverton. Diddigton and Upwelling Drove before it and Lydbrook Dean currently under construction all were heavily influenced by his writings,Alex
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I worked with Iain on the construction of the original "Lakebank". Every layout I have built in the last 25 years owes a huge amount to his ideas, and will continue to do so. He helped me to enormously improve my modelling: He was generous with his help and inspiration. and I owe him a huge debt of gratitude.
As well as his skill as a modeller, he was a great linguist. I was particularly impressed that whena working for French and Dutch model railway magazines, he recorded his ideas in the language of the magazine.
Alex
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A pannier tank shunts what will be the quarry sidings at Lydbrook Dean The rock face is built up from pieces of foam, covered with plaster of Paris. Once dry, the plaster is carved to give it a more rock light ke appearance. I’ve given it a very thin wash of Matt black, to better identify areas that require further attention.
Alex
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I’ve made a start on the buildings. I like me to get at least the basic shape of the buildings done at an early stage as it helps me see how it will all fit together.
The first is a disused lamp hut on the old station platform. I used the GWR lamp hut 3d printed model from Dartmoor Model Services.
It was given a coat of grey primer. The roof and door were sprayed with Mig “Old rust”. When dry, the roof was given a couple of coats of Mig “chipping effects” followed by a coat of Mig “Matt black”. As soon of this was dry it was hydrated with plain water which made patches come away, leaving the effect of rust coming through the paint. The roof was then lightly drybrushed with Mig “Jet exhaust burnt metal” and allied to dry. I then switched to enamels and gave it a Mig “light rust” wash followed by some Mig streaking rust effects applied with a small brush. The sides were given a couple of coats of Humbrol Matt cream. The window frame was picked out in white and the door in old rust. Weathering was a light rust wash followed by streaking rust effects and dark earth weathering powder.Alex
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Thanks Mark. Train pack is interesting. Class 14 is a bit modern for what I have in mind. If it was a 57xx though.....
Not sure about Berry Wiggins. They seem to be rather more on the Forest of Dean branch, rather than the Severn and Wye, which is where Lydbrook Dean is set. I do like them though, so I'm looking for an excuse.
Hopefully an update or two over the weekend.
Alex
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Lydbrook Dean
in Layout topics
Posted · Edited by wiggoforgold
Track laying is complete and the layout is back in the workshop, I’ve made a start on the wiring.
The pictures show the old quarry that’s taking shape at one end of the layout. The line goes off stage through a tunnel on to a sector plate. The sector plate id hidden beneath the scenery, which is removable for access and transport. The basic shape has been built up from polystyrene foam, covered with Sculptamold. The curved back drop is from 2.5 mm ply. The resulting structure is both strong and light.