Southern Pride 4REP
by DIW
original page on Old RMweb
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??? posted on Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:43 pm
Now that I've finished the Teddyland Loco for my mountain layout ~(see separate thread for SPB No.16), I can make a start on my 4REP.
The roof details are fitted, and the chasses are started:
More to come hopefully as progress is made.
Dave
EDIT - 'Workbench' removed from topic title
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Comment posted by 47406 on Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:53 am
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses
I've built quite a few SP mk.1s & TPOs (yeah, they're mk.1s too...), but still keep contemplating the idea of a 4-TC somewhere in the future... not exactly the same, but close... Your thread might be the decider for me as to where a whole month's budget goes
-dylan
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Comment posted by jim s-w on Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:10 pm
Hiya
A few tips re the southern pride Mk1 - the bogie centers are out and it really makes a difference to the look if they are corrected. Also if you are doing a blue and grey unit the stick on window frames are a big improvement too
HTH
Jim
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??? posted on Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:43 pm
Re: post from 47406,
Hi Dylan,
Thanks for your interest, I'll keep the thread updated if it will help you to decide. No doubt Jim S-W's comments will have added a bit to the mix!
I already have built a 4TC, from a MTK kit on Mainline underframes and bogies, with Replica Railways interiors cut up to suit. The 4TC is so far only painted in white primer - I may yet decide to forgo the intended blue and grey livery and paint it in Metropolitan maroon (as per the preserved set I last saw at Ruislip depot a couple of years ago).
Dave
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??? posted on Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:06 pm
Re: post from Jim S-W,
Hi Jim,
Many thanks for your comments. I have measured the chassis and the bogie centres are 186mm, which corresponds to the 46' 6" in my copy of Keith Parkin's book 'British Railways Mark I coaches'. I note that the chasses are stamped, 'Southern Pride Models Series 3'. Do you think that the folk at Southern Pride have addressed the bogie centres dimension with this version, or perhaps should I use a different reference book for these details?
I like the window frames which you have shown in your photo. The version I am making is indeed the blue/grey. I had a look at the Southern Pride site this lunchtime, but only found frames listed for Mark II, Mark III and Pullmans. Do I need to look harder for Mark I, or are one of the other types suitable?
I was taken by the catenary in your photo. I had a look at your contributions on the catenary thread, and followed the links. I'll send you a PM on that topic later on - I'll not clutter up this thread with it!
Dave
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Comment posted by jim s-w on Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:50 pm
Hi Dave
My mk1's are pretty old so there is a very good chance they are have been changed. If they match the Parkin book then they are correct on yours. It would be very much like Southern Pride to improve their products as they go along. They have always been very good at that sort of customer service.
The Mk1 windows are specifically for the mk1 coaches. I have to admist I dont really use the site, tending to just email SP when I want something.
Cheers
Jim
PS - Feel free to clutter up my own workbench thread if you like!
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Comment posted by The Fatadder on Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:55 pm
DIW wrote:
Re: post from Jim S-W,
I like the window frames which you have shown in your photo. The version I am making is indeed the blue/grey. I had a look at the Southern Pride site this lunchtime, but only found frames listed for Mark II, Mark III and Pullmans. Do I need to look harder for Mark I, or are one of the other types suitable?
Dave
They are on there somewhere, but I remember when I brought some that they were a real pain to find! They do 2 versions, one designed for their kits like the ones Jim used, and one with just the outer frame suitable for fitting to Bachmann mk1s
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??? posted on Thu May 21, 2009 7:49 pm
It has been a long while since I posted an update, so here we go......
A fair amount of experimentation with moving the relevent materials around the house showed that in fact the bathroom wouldn't tile itself, contrary to all my hopes and expectations. Accordingly a pause to all 4REP progress ensued while the aforementioned house modelling took place. Any 'proper' modelling time was spent in getting SGK bahn ready for showing.
So, all that out of the way, I have managed to complete the underframes.
The underframes, all completed and painted.
My original intention was to place two motor bogies within one of the Driving Motor Seconds. However with the possibility of them intruding into the seating, I changed to have one in the brake compartment of the trailer brake first and the other in the buffet. I'll devise some way of wiring them together in order to provide effective dual pick-ups.
Motor in the brake compartment.
Trailer brake first on its bogies.
Interior fitted into the trailer brake first. Look - the motor fits under the floor!
Roof sitting on the carriage.
The roofs have been given a coat of white primer so that the top coat will 'take' to the plastic roof and whitemetal fittings.
The trailer braker first still needs to have its door fittings and the corridor connectors installed.
It seems that the next progress will also be a while coming. I have had some bits of brass arrive which means that I can carry
on with the Krattigen funicular track rollers. When I get to another impasse with that I can always come back to the 4REP.
Edit - correct underframe photo inserted
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Comment posted by PaulRhB on Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:09 pm
Hi Dave
I've just aquired a 4TC and while the it all looks good in the box are there any useful snippets of info that I need to know before diving in? Does the roof and chassis plastic take glue and paint ok? What did you use for the interior in yours?
Paul
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??? posted on Fri Aug 21, 2009 7:09 pm
Hi Paul,
I have just had a look at this thread and seen your posting - sorry for the long time to reply.
I used the interior kit produced by Southern Pride themselves - kit number S95. You will need some additional plasticard for the floor and the partitions.
For gluing the whitmetal details to the roof I used clear contact adhesive (Uhu, Cementit and Wilko All-Purpose all seem to be fine). For the underframe, the under floor details and the sides to floor , Mek-Pak and Plastic Magic have been used. I always have some Butanone or Plastic Weld on standby in case of 'plastic difficulties'!
The roof was painted first with white primer - the car stuff. That has been followed by matt grey enamel sprayed on by airbrush. It has given a good finish, but it is rather prone to being scratched off, even after several coats. I'll give it a go with some grey primer when I have got the next can under way. I'll report back on that.
The underframes and under floor equipment was airbrush sprayed with matt black enamel. That has stood up well to the knocks - much better than the roofs.
I found that drilling the holes in the sides for the door handles and grab handles takes a great deal of care. The sides are quite thick, and I have broken several small drills across the eight sides in the kit - but they're all done now.
I have just got back to the kit, and am starting on the DMSs.
I found that the cast corridor connector for mounting on the cab ends seems to be not quite as tall as it appears in the photos of the real thing. The photos show the bottom to be approximately level with the bottom of the cab front, and the top of the route number panel to be approximately level with the top of the cab windows. I have therefore cut the corridor connector casting across its width, and fixed them to the cab ends such that the wondow tops and the bottoms of the castings align as in the photos. While I type this, the Milliput which fills the gap is curing. I'll take some pictures when it has cured and been cleaned up.
Regards,
Dave
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??? posted on Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:57 pm
As noted in my previous post, I have taken some pictures of the cab ends:
Here are the cab ends with the corridor connectors lengthened. The gap has been filled with Milliput.
The cab ends have been painted with primer - ordinary white spray primer.
The cab ends have been painted yellow, with some dirt added in the nooks and crannies. Still need to fit the wipers.
Dave
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??? posted on Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:28 am
Postings of further progress on this thread are being held in abeyance - when the new site is open to all of us I will try to copy this thread to it, and then post the latest progress.
In the meantime, does anyone know who makes the correct shoebeams for this kit? There are none in the box! I had a set of NNK shoebeams in the spares box, but they are of the older, longer type. A search on the Southern Pride site yesterday evening didn't prove fruitful, was I not looking in the right areas?
Cheers,
Dave
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Comment posted by meld on Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:58 am
DIW wrote:
Postings of further progress on this thread are being held in abeyance - when the new site is open to all of us I will try to copy this thread to it, and then post the latest progress.
In the meantime, does anyone know who makes the correct shoebeams for this kit? There are none in the box! I had a set of NNK shoebeams in the spares box, but they are of the older, longer type. A search on the Southern Pride site yesterday evening didn't prove fruitful, was I not looking in the right areas?
Cheers,
Dave
Dave, if you can find them, the Shoe Beam ( aka height limiting bar ) from the Hornby Networker would probably ideal as they are of the narrow/Thin style ... or a piece of square brass might be another way to go?
HTH
Mike
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??? posted on Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:45 am
Mike,
Thanks for your help. I'll have to haunt the spares traders at the next exhibitions 'til I find some.
cheers,
Dave
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