Giles

No actually - I came at it from a completely different direction, working it from first principles, as I made an uncoupling device for the magnetic couplings I made for myself, using a single this cam and follower, and repurposed it into this motor. This in turn was inspired by the Walking Man automaton I made last year, which employed a double sided cam with 180 degree offset.

Yeah - but you've got a proper one!

I have a hood over my Emblaser 1, with an in-line fan and flexible hose extracting through what was an air-brick. With that running I do get a smell but not much more - certainly nothing to create dust etc.... running it without any extraction would certainly leave a film of dust over everything - but not the lens.... I never have to clean the lens. In the very early days I did try making an enclosure from a plastic box, and everything inside got filthy - including the lens! (The laser is in the house..... I get away with it....) With an enclosure you need a lot of airflow to prevent any dust from being recirculated - which I think has always been a problem with the E2.

May I ask where you got the matetial from? I regularly use 2mm laser grade MDF from hobarts with no problem, but I bought somewhere of 1mm laser MDF from 4D model shop, and have never been able to cut it!

Trotec have very kindly offered to send me a repeat order - but I've asked them just to send me one sheet so I can try it (from a different batch) which they're putting in the post - so we will see whether that cuts properly or not, as I really don't want them or me to waste materials unnecessarily . My guess is that it won't..... but Trotec are being really good about it. They've forwarded all the information to the factory is Austria for their comment, including what type of laser I'm using, what settings etc....

Just to keep people informed - it seems my email with the batch numbers went astray, so when I phoned them today they said they still needed them! So I've given them over the phone.... The sales team seem to think it's a manufacturing problem, which I find encouraging, but apparently the stuff is manufactured in Austria, so now they have the batch number they are going to contact the factory. During the next contact I shall ask them to send me some samples of any more recent stuff they have.... For info, the dodgy stuff I have is.... The LS401-103 is Lot no. 0401004857169 the LT404-102 is 0101004750102 Hope this helps! Giles

I like an output speed of around 100rpm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-DC-3V-3-7V-100RPM-Mini-Coreless-Gear-Motor-Micro-Planetary-Gearbox-DIY-Robot/264556809887?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It's the receiver that I reprogram (the PWM) to make the motor perform better. Best, Giles

It's on going...... I will phone them again on Monday. Certainly it's an issue that affects more than just me! Yes, ADA signage. I'll post what results I get!

Finally a Jpg file. The narrow gauge is 14mm, with a single spur of 32, which will potentially allow the use of a standard gauge crane - or simply posing! Roads and 32mm come down one side of the river, whilst 14mm comes down the other bank and across. The road will fiddle at a higher level, and descend to the quay side Unusually for me, this layout will involve running round, and for the fun of it, I shall use my own magnetic couplings and my Scotch uncoupling mechanisms.

Sort of - I' ve built up four narrow gauge locos for it (radio control) : a Bagnall, two Pecketts and quarry Hunslet. Ive got round to buying the rail, and I've finally decided on the track plan after so very many hours of working through different ideas and permutations...! The SPARROW(1)(1)(1).pdf

Small lettering is never as easy as one would think, as anywhere the letter thins out - like the middle arm of the 'E' for instance - over heats far too quickly, scorching or melting, where the rest of the letter may be fine. Small holes can create similar difficulties, and it can take a lot of experimentation in cutting path as well as speed and power to achieve a clear hole - certainly never as simple as cutting a circle or square when below a certain size.

Hmmmm. I very much doubt it was your fault - I've never had a problem except sometimes with 1mm, but even that was better than what I'm getting with 0.5mm now. I'll speak to them on Monday. I had bought £150 worth in December, so it's not very pleasing....!

It's supposedly exactly the same stuff..... it's as if the composition has changed slightly.

Oh........ when did you buy yours, Martin?

As an aside, I just tried cutting some components from my latest batch of Trotec ADA, and I can't get a clean cut, try as I might....... It ends up with furry edges. I put a but of my older stuff in, and perfect.... New stuff, rubbish.... I've dropped Trotec an email, but until I find out what's going on, I couldn't recommend the stuff - and I can't make anything!

Yes, I am!

The jab doesn't necessarily stop you from spreading the virus. An excerpt from an article on the BBC "It was 17 June 2009. An 11-year-old boy returned to the US from the UK – and inadvertently brought something with him. Later that week, while attending a religious education programme in Sullivan County, New York, he developed a mysterious swelling of his salivary glands. He had mumps, a respiratory infection spread by contact with droplets in the air. Meanwhile, the religious course continued. The 400 children in attendance spent hours each day engaging in prolonged face-to-face contact – specifically, a kind of Orthodox Jewish education involving facing a study partner, a chavrusa, across a narrow table, while analysing and debating text from the Talmud. By the time the programme ended, 22 others had been infected, along with three adults. As the students went back to their homes, the virus spread to Brooklyn and Rockland County, then on to Ocean County and Orange County. In all, the outbreak lasted a year, and at least 3,502 people developed the disease. When scientists analysed what had happened, they suggested that the chavrusa style of learning might have allowed for "particularly efficient transmission of mumps virus". What might seem most surprising in this case is that the accidental super-spreader had received a full course of the MMR (measles, mumps and rubella) vaccine. It's likely that he did have some immunity – like the other vaccinated children, he developed relatively mild symptoms with no complications – but he was still able to carry the virus and transmit it to others. In fact, most vaccines don't fully protect against infection, even if they can block symptoms from appearing. As a result, vaccinated people can unknowingly carry and spread pathogens. Occasionally, they can even start epidemics. " It goes on to say that the Covid virus has been engineered primarily to minimise the symptoms of the disease, and the effects on transmission are unknown as yet.

Have gusset plates top and bottom on the flat, slot and tab - so you transition to the flat plane at each end for the connection. This will also beef up the corner joints and set the corner angle nicely if you design it right.

Just an instinctive warning. I note that the number of suppliers of 6mm gearmotors has greatly reduced and the prices have doubled. It may be that the supply is drying up. It might also be due to other global factors, but if you wanted some, now may be the time?

On Denton Brook, the gate is operated via an ESU SwitchPilot Servo Controller (and servo!) which was quite easy to set up.

You do make such a fine job of these, Phil!

Very simply put, Tube expanders - they are slightly conical tools, with rollers fitted, that insert into the end of the tube, and when rotated, will push the tube walls out to meet the hole in the tube plate.

Just to be clear - with the transmitter off, turn the receiver on. It should flash slowly. After about ten or fifteen seconds It should then flash rapidly. If it fails to flash quickly at this point, then it would be worth charging the battery and trying again. With the Bind button held down, turn the transmitter on, and after a couple of seconds release it. The receiver should flash slowly whilst it binds, and then stop flashing with the light on when binding is complete. It may also be that the receiver aerial is not at the best angle for the transmitter - i have (rarely) found that adjusting the aerial position can help, but that is irrelevant if the receiver does not flash fast in the first place. Check the battery....

Thank you! I agree - no criticism at all of the body build- it's a lovely job...... it's just the chassis didn't go right - We've all had those experiences!