Although there haven't been too many posts in this thread recently there has been some progress, just nothing very visible. After building the fiddleyard baseboards I then had to move some of the wiring on the scenic boards as originally I had anticipated plugging umbilical cables to each board at the rear. With the revised fiddleyard plan that can't happen so the sockets have had to be moved. In addition the point motors were wired (as per instructions) to use 16V AC supply but frankly didn't work well singly and when trying to throw 2 at a time for crossovers failed miserably. I tried a bigger AC supply but still no joy, they needed upwards of 2 Amps! So after some fiddling and testing I have rewired the motors to use 12V DC. It's not documented in the Conrad instructions but is actually very easy to do and they work much better. I had to take one apart to see how it was wired! Having made these changes I now have a layout that is wired differently to my control box! Those that have seen earlier posts may remember I've been using a lash-up of relays and switches to experiment with electrically interlocked points, signals and power feeds. So to test my rewiring I needed to re-wire the control box. Doing this on the prototype seemed a waste of time so I thought I better get on and build a proper panel. You're probably starting to get the drift of this. At the moment I am in that state where whatever I do I take one step forward and two back! I acquired a Model Signal Engineering kit for a 14 leverframe from ebay a while ago and I thought it would be nice to use this as the control panel for the station area of the layout. I've started to build it and have one lever assembled to test things out. It's not the greatest of kits but it will do with a bit of work. One issue I had with the prototype using switches was that there was nothing to stop you flipping the wrong switch. The interlocking meant that the switch would do nothing but there was no real feedback to tell you which switches were valid options at any point. Using the leverframe it would be nice if there was some form of physical locking of invalid levers. I've decide to attempt to use a single electrical interlock for all the levers linked to the latch release levers. It's not an original idea, I've cribbed it! Someone did it with a 2mm Scale Association leverframe and posted details on RMWeb but I can't find the post! So I have added a bar (actually 'U' section) running the length of the frame below the levers which can move vertically. The ends of the bar are located by bits of brass rod in tubes. This bar will be sprung in the up (locked) position by default as shown here. When the latch release lever on one of the levers is pulled it will operate a microswitch which will deliver power to a solenoid to pull the locking bar down and release the levers. Of course power will only be delivered to the solenoid if it is a valid movement. The same locking mechanism works for levers in the frame or pulled so a lever cannot be put back incorrectly. Here's the bar dropped. I haven't actually mounted the solenoid yet so there may be the odd issue to solve! One problem with building a 14 lever frame is you have to do most things 14 times! Here are 13 of the levers with their latch lever microswitches attached. The switches are located by a bit of wire through a hole in the switch and the lever and fixed with epoxy. Lots more to do... Cheers Dave