noiseboy72

So has anyone else read the magazine they brought out? Not a lot in it for seasoned modellers except the "form list" for the competitors, but looks good for those wanting to make a start in the hobby.

7 hours ago, JohnR said:

Originally it was said that the shows would be an hour and a quarter long - that seems to have changed. Are there plans for extra footage to be shown? In the manner of "Bake Off: Extra Slice" or similar?

"Railway Challenge -  Delayed Service, sponsored by Southern Trains"??

On 06/09/2019 at 18:35, Marcus-Jay said:

 

 

Ohh.. lots of video stills as I don't recall seeing many stills cameras around.

Hmm... Not so sure about that. Steve was taking quite a few shots during the filming but I think most of the layout shots will be of Season 1.

And for those that want some more background information on the show, PECO are publishing this next week: https://peco-uk.com/blogs/news/the-great-model-railway-challenge-the-book-of-the-series

9 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

 

I did hear that the bar has been raised this year. I could say we deliberately made all our mistakes last year just so that this year's teams could learn from them

I ended up sitting next to a team member from Tonbridge Railway Club at a wedding (Small world!) and discussing our experiences from Season 1 to Season 2 was quite interesting. I think this year the rules were clearer, the judging more transparent using a points system and teams much better prepared. 

We all knew what was expected of us and learned from the mistakes of S1. Less ambitious builds on the day and more pre-building and general preparation being the key, as well as putting a team together that worked well under pressure and didn't get too stressed about a camera being shoved in their faces!

As a comparison, if you have Netflix, watch the first series of Bake Off  and then the latest one. The standards are so much higher and the competition much tougher! 

11 hours ago, Huw Griffiths said:

 

 

 

You both make very fair points.

 

To be honest, my comment was more a case of me "thinking aloud" (I know ... me thinking ... yes, right). I was really wondering if there might be any obvious way of ensuring that the "camera car" would be really unlikely to collide with anything on the layout - and a scale which uses compatible track, but has a larger loading gauge struck me as a credible option.

 

Of course, there could also be the fact that I've recently been exploring the feasibility of building a "critter" in a similar scale, using a Bachmann Junior chassis - as little more than a "fun" project, to improve my modelmaking skills. OK - the chances are that this won't get built any time soon (if at all) - but I'm certainly aware that modelling in scales like On30, Oe and O-16.5 could potentially offer a larger loading gauge than typical UK outline OO RTR.

 

The reason I'm not being any more definite than this is that I don't think there's such a thing as a universal loading gauge for real narrow gauge lines (and hence models, to any specific scale) - far from it, in fact.

 

As for other scales using compatible track, a number of the German and US outline HO RTR locos I've encountered have been of a similar size to a lot of UK outline OO RTR - which makes me suspect that the layout loading gauges might not be very different.

 

 

Whatever the score, I suspect that I've probably said more than enough about what I wonder if some potential teams might consider building in a future series (well they might - or they might not ...).

 

I'd now prefer to concentrate on what real teams actually built - and how everything worked out - in a real series which has already been filmed. There's only a couple of weeks to wait now - and I'm looking forward to seeing it.

 

 

Regards,

 

Huw.

We did consider HO (Can't say too much just yet) American Outline, but settled in the end for OO. Bearing in mind that Peco, Hornby and Bachmann all sponsor the program to a very generous degree, the majority of models you will see will be from those manufacturers. That does give you 009, a small amount of HOe, HO and N to choose from - along with OO, so hopefully you will see some really good layouts with some creative use of stock and scenery.

*Spoiler* Many of the layouts this year are much better than last series! Expect some modelling up to proper exhibition standard from a lot of teams (not ours, we just bumbled along as normal), as we all watched season 1 and worked out what was required to fit 3 years modelling into 3 days... 

Radio Times are now listing the first show - https://www.radiotimes.com/tv-programme/e/jm7sk8/the-great-model-railway-challenge--series-2-episode-1/

But interestingly, only as 1 hour and not 1hr 15 as the production company thought.

15 hours ago, Huw Griffiths said:

 

 

I wonder if we might see an On30 entry in a future series?

On30 is quite "niche", but  I think you might see a few 009 and N Gauge sections this year...

10 hours ago, jools1959 said:

 

It derailed so many times as it was top heavy and not only that, it derailed other items of rolling stock or the fingers of the crew operating it.

Yep, we had similar issues. The balance was awful and the long coupling bar pulled the loco or carriage off the track on every turn. We eventually resorted to a barrier wagon with old large Hornby couplers and with the hook removed and hooked their wagon around  this. 

2 hours ago, Ian J. said:

As 3mm seems to have made an appearance, I wonder if there will be any 2mm layouts this year? While I model 4mm, I think for the general public that 2mm being on the show could help interest in the hobby as it allows for layouts that can fit in today's rabbit hutch homes.

The rules said  "Throughout all rounds of the competition, Teams should model predominantly in OO gauge" but nothing was said about scale...

It was only slightly confusing having Team Grantham - from the North East AND a team from Grantham (Muddle and Go Nowhere) in the same heat! 

Hopefully the audience will work it out!!

This was our shot taken by Steve Flint. I gather there's a special publication dedicated to the series coming out to coincide with the transmission date.

Friday 13th September is the revised starting date.

We are team Muddle and Go Nowhere. This was the logo one of our team created. Any similarity to the Midland and Great Northern Railway logo is entirely coincidental...  

See us in Heat 5

It was huge fun to make. As team captain, the pre-work is more stressful than the filming, but my whole team really enjoyed the experience from start to finish.

We are in heat 5, so I'll update this thread with a URL to our team website, as this has more behind the scenes info and photos. We've also found a home for the layouts and they will be on display after the heat goes out.

More to follow...

As a team captain, it was great fun to make! I don't think the shot I've attached gives away too much...

Thank you. A kind soul has supplied me the information. 

Hi All.

I need to add a couple of points to my layout and for the life of me, cannot find the original build instructions (It was 10 years ago that I originally installed it!!) for my MERG Accessory Encoder. 

Would anyone have the pin out of the DB25 connector that the switching is connected to? I believe it was on Tech Bulletin TB DCC11/12. I don't really want to have to rejoin MERG just for this 1 datasheet as funds are a little tight at the moment!

Many thanks in advance. 

It's a nice idea but do you think exchanging cut files might be against copying and distributing such as the Scalescenes files? Are Craft Robo and Silhouette files even compatible?

It would mean anyone that got a cut file would not necessarily purchase the original,personally I don't want to go there,although without the instructions it could be awkward to actually construct any of the buildings.

 

A link to the replacement blades would be handy,but I've looked at my blade holder and it isn't readily apparent how it fits together for dismantling,I'll have to have a closer look when I need to replace the one I've got.

 

I have a list of all the settings for different thicknesses of card I cut after doing test cuts so it's automatic whether I tick the double cut box or not. Occasionally I'll see that I need to adjust the cutting depth by one or two clicks either way of the 33 depths of the ten blade length settings available,but that's done in the software anyway.

 

Allan

My suggestion would be to circulate cutting files only, not the print. So long as the print is done at 100%, the cut file should fit over without issue. The cutting files are compatible between machines, as the software is the same. The only change would be between A4 and A3, so a common size would need to be agreed.

I must confess, I only use the older blade type, but the blase supplier mentioned on their ad that their blade fitted all mounts. I don't have an active listing to point you to at the moment, but will keep a lookout.

The maximum depth of cut is determined by the blade itself. They are all to the same spec, with a cutting face a little over 0.3mm. You are correct that the older blade design with 3 coloured caps has now been superceded by the ratchet design, but the blade is the same. You can buy just the blade itself off ebay for less than £6 each (Buy the Italian made ones, not the Chinese, it makes a big difference) and re-mount them into the blade carrier.

There is no need to set single or double cutting. Without removing the cut work from the machine, check to see if the cut has gone correctly. If it needs another run through, just re-run the job.

Both machines are excellent and the extra cutting size of the Silhouette is worth having if you can afford it, as will cut to the edge of A4, something the Craft Robo cannot when in print registration mode.

These machines come up regularly on ebay for a good price, as scrap bookers buy them and then discover that you do need a level of technical knowledge to get the best out of them and many are not willing to invest the time. A micrometer for measuring the thickness of the material is a must if you want a decent cut and good blade life as many will simply increase the blade depth if a material is not cutting. This causes damage to the cutting mat and blunts the blades very quickly. The trick is to get the depth right and repeat the cut.

Just a thought, do the cutting community want to consider a sub forum to allow us to exchange cut and print files ? I have made up cut files for a number of Charlie Connor's kits, including the Docklands Light Rail Train and a few others, plus I am working on some of the Scalescenes designs as well. Any takers ?

I am cutting windows for Cav (RBE) at the moment for some coaches he is modding.

We have got the cut accuracy down to better than 0.1mm with total repeatability. By that I mean I can run the same piece through the machine a few times and the cut will be in exactly the same place to within 0.01mm!

Cav makes the files in a CAD programs and imports them into the cutting program. He emails me the file and I cut them. The post office then loses them for a week before Cav gets them to check the fit...

The machine to buy must have print registration reading. There was a cut price model sold by one of the home shopping channels that did not have this function. Avoid like the plague! Its has less cutting pressure and I understand poorer accuracy as well.

I use a CC2200-20. This is the Craft Robo Mark 2 essentially. The upgrade to the Sillhouette gives a greater cutting pressure, but no more thickness in reality, as the blade has the same cut depth. To cut thicker materials, just run it through the machine again.

I paid £90 for it, plus £7 for a new mat and £6 for a new blade.

The panel for my layout - Hopwood.

It uses a Merg DCC points encoder and deocder set, plus an LS150.

The panel is laser printed onto waterproof paper, so can be wiped clean with ease.

There are just 4 wires from the panel, power plus DCC. The switch positions show the route set.

cheating.........? aaargh! are there rules?

I don't think cheating exists in this - just different ways of doing things

 

personally in 2 minds about the craft cutter - part of me REALLY wants it - particularly the part that has to cut lots of layers out, the other part thinks is it worth it when I rerely make 2 of anything (yes folks, my attention span is that short )

 

given that I design the models on the computer anyway, how long extra would setting the machine up to cut take? any estimates?

 

edit due to thinking of something I had forgotton to add

To set up cut lines, you import the drawing into the supplied software as a graphics file and overlay the cut lines. For simple designs, there is an auto trace feature, byt I find that a better job can be done manually. Within the package there are lines, boxes with curved corners, arcs and circles etc. With windows, I do a single panel and then cut and paste.

The design is then printed with a set of registration marks. The printed sheet is then fed into the cutter and the cut begins. Watching the paper or card whizz in and out of the machine is quite mesmorizing! I have had no difficulty getting accurate cuts, but there is a learning curve.

The most time consuming part of the operation is setting the cutter up for a new material, as you often need to do a few test cuts to get the depth and speed correct for optimum cutting. This is the step that lets most people down, as a search of thr Craft Robo forums will prove. Many people just feed in the design, press cut and are then unhappy with the result.

If you would like to see the result, I would be more than happy to set up a cut of one of your designs. Drop me a PM and we can arrange for you to send me a file and I will feed it through the machine.

 

Looking at the posts about that card cutting thingy, my personal opinion is that it would be cheaper to buy on eBay an A4 scanner, a plastic A3 drawing board and an 0.3 mm Pentel pencil thingy, draw whatever you want to make, scan it fiddle with it in some free software like GimPhoto and print out as many as you want for cutting. What you learned from using the board and software would be of far more use to you than the card cutting thing.

 

Jim

The advantages of the card cutter are repeatable results and a massive reduction in time. Everything in your post is excellent preperation for either hand cutting or whacking it through the machine. The only difference is the speed and (In my cack handed case) quality of the final product. I still have to design the artwork prior to cutting, add texture, print etc. but I then do an extra step of adding cut lines. When laminating up layers, the holes match up to within 01.mm and I can form smooth curves without any problems.

Not sure if its cheating or just using modern technology to improve the end result ??

Craft Robos will cut up to 0.2mm in most osft materials. I tried a piece of plasticard, but found it took a large number of passes to cut right through.

A better use is for marking out and then running around the score lines with a scalpel.

I have been playing with my Craft Robo cutter again today.

This was produced in about 20 minutes, by setting auto cut lines over some concrete fencing created by Peter Watson.

To give an idea of scale, the holes in the bottom are less tham 1mm across.

Coach windows with radius corners are a breeze, as are smooth curves and tight corners.