Jump to content
 

28ten

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    169

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Blog Entries posted by 28ten

  1. 28ten

    Wagon wheels

    By 28ten,

    i have been unhappy with the back of the Slaters wheels as they are nothing like the real thing, so I chucked a pair of S7 wheels in the soft jaw and took 16 thou off the back of the wheel center.
     

     

     
    I think it is an mprovementthey look more three dimensional. next thing is the axles......
  2. 28ten
    Lots of pictures here, they make more sense than my ramblings, so I will just stick to a few comments for each one, I must stress this is not the perfect/best way of tackling this job, but it works for me with the tools I have. For those who are interested I used to have a Myford ML7 with DROs and I really miss them, they are especially useful for this sort of job.
    If you have any questions fire away.
    The essential measuring tools, I have two 2-3 inch micrometers to save adjusting them for dimensions. both were bought off ebay for under a tenner. you can also see my working drawing prepared in 'crap-o-cad'
     

     
    All tools prepared adjusted for height and ready
     

     
    Loctite for attaching the tyre to the rim, I apply a small amount to the scrap piece before applying it to the rim with a cocktail stick as I don't want any foreign matter entering the bottle
     

     
    These diamond sticks are handy if you need to quickly hone a tool
     

     
    I use a 2inch DTI to measure the cross slide travel, this is very accurate and you don't have to worry about backlash. Really a poor mans DRO
     

     
    The center glued into the 'tyre', if you have bored accurately this is gentle push fit, do not use force the wheel will distort
     

     
    The bar is turned to the OD of the flange in this case 1.450"
     

     
    The tread is then cut in, I don't bother with the taper as it is very slight and the form tool will remove the excess to make the taper.
     

     
    I used a parting tool to turn a recess to clear the back of the form tool, otherwise the form tool is cutting the waste from the back of the tread, the form tool shot should make this clear.
     

     
    The form tool ready to cut, I line this up with the face of the tyre and move it .193" inwards this gives the correct tyre width for GWR locos of .133"
     

     
    Everything is locked up, the tread is blued with a felt tip and the form tool fed in firmly but slowly, the work is rotating at 40rpm, even then there is a small amount of chatter present.
     

     
    The tread is formed and given a light polish, ready for parting off
     

     
    Job done, just the rear of the wheel to be cleaned after parting. there is a little extra on the top flange but this will come off in the final polish when it's mounted on the axles.
     

     
    Only three more to do:lol:
     

  3. 28ten
    I got a little fed up of soldering small pipe clip so I thought I would turn to a rescue job on the lathe for some relaxation.
    I intend to use AGH wheels on this model, and indeed I turned a set up, but in my haste I made the tyre treads too narrow :icon_frustrated::icon_redface: which is my fault for doing precision work late at night.
    I wont go into full detail of the process but the main concern is to maintain concentricity of the tyre and wheel, fortunatly the axle hole in the casting is about .181" which is under the .187" of the axle, so I have a little bit of leeway to make a corrction if it is not perfect. Anyway the first stage is to chuck up some stock to make an arbour to mount the casting on so I could remove the tread, sorry no action pics. but this gives an idea. when it is in the chuck the casting is held in place by a running mandrel, held in place with a live center so the casting is held firmly and without distorting the spokes. even so light cuts are the order of the day.

     
    it this leaves four castings like this

     
    Now to make the new tyres, first a suitable piece of cast iron was chucked up and faced/trued and then drilled 13mm
     

     
    This allows enough clearance for the boring tool, this is a slightly blured shot of the boring process. it is not the ideal setup as the tool has a large overhang making accurate boring impossible, but that doesnt matter at this stage as it is just being roughed out

     
    once it was within about 60 thou of bore to fit the castings I retracted the boring tool so that the final few passes would be accurate.
    This is the situation before retracting the tool

     
    Finally bore out to a good fit on the casting, it is important that the fit is snug but not tight if it is too tight the casting will distort when fitting.this shot shows the casting ready for final fitting.

     
    Next stage will be to make the tread and part off each wheel.....probably after the weekend I shall return to the pipework tomorrow!
  4. 28ten
    I have been chasing small jobs on the chassis and there isnt that much left to do, the problem at the moment is fixing the lost was springs under the hornblocks as i can't solder them as I need to drop the axles out, so I might have to make up some method of screwing them in place. the brake gear will just drop out when the pivot pins are removed, (in the photos they have yet to be trimmed to length) and a drop of superglue will hold them in place when the final assembly takes place.
     

     

     

     
    I have a similar problem with the cab, I want to solder the roof in place (the floor is removeable0, but it will be very hard to glaze the cab then! I could use real glass and mask it for painting which might be the best solution. Any bright ideas are welcome...... the photos are self explanatory, but thedo show some of the extra details on the top of the tanks
     

     

     

     
    Next job is to finish the wheels and do a test fit, then I can start a snag list of the final parts to be fitted. the plates won't arrive for a month or so.
  5. 28ten

    Some oldies

    By 28ten,

    Whilst sorting out the photo albums I found these, they are all pre 1906 (:icon_wave: Buckjumper, Mikkel) stock any questions fire away
    The first two wagons are from WEP kits modified with sprung axleguards

     

     

     

     
    Something Broad Gauge - a tilt wagon from a BGS kit
     

     

     
    An E26 from CPL side with slaters bogies, the rest is scratchbuilt
     

     

     
    Finally that rarest of things a finished project!! this coach is 20 years old I didn't know about the inner brown lining on early GWR coaching then, even if I had, I lack the lining skill.
     

  6. 28ten
    Quick progress report, these fiddly jobs are taking an age and I have added extra detail such as cable brackets and stand offs, anyway its late so here we go
    cables along the footplate in reality these were very untidy but on a model it looks awful so I have gone for a compromise...

    Some work on the battery box, the gusset behind the bufferbeam is from scrap etch but it was handy to hang the battery box from

    Overall looking like a 14xx, well 1447 as it is now

    There is a lot of piping on top of the tank but unfortunatly very few prototype pictures show it clearly

    The front buffer beam is coming together, it needs a good clean though

  7. 28ten

    MOK 14xx episode 2

    By 28ten,

    I spent last night working on the tanks on the 14xx, the tops are highly visible so i wanted to add some scale hardware bolts to the boiler clamp (or whatever its called!) was it worth it? well i think so. I have added the picture of the hornblocks under construction to show how simple they are


     

     

  8. 28ten

    14xx episode 3 - pipes

    By 28ten,

    Nothing very exciting, just those PITA jobs that make or break the final model. the first shot shows the pipe run under the footplate along the valance, I included this because it shows the little brass spacer screwed to the body mounting, this is to save the ATC and steam heat pipes from being damage when resting the model on the bench, the steps are sufficient at the rear, the other thing that might be of interest is the round nose pliers used for forming the bends in the pipes, they make the job easier and cause much less damage to the pipes

    The second shot shows the steam heat which is formed around the back or the auto gear (which is a very handy casting from Peter roles)the vac pipe is vet to be soldered which is why it looks slightly drunken next tob is a clean up with soapy water and on with the auto gear tomorrow..

  9. 28ten

    MOK 14xx

    By 28ten,

    I have been working on a 14xx chassis which can be seen in the chassispro2 jig, which incidentally makes construction very straightforward

    the more interesting point is the hornblocks which I am working on

    hopefully you can see the ballraces, these really do make a difference and I will try and standardise on them in future. A side benefit is that they almost eliminate sideplay, which is something you don't really want with S7 clearences

    The ballraces also showing some smaller 2mmi/d and 1.5mm i/d for wagons

  10. 28ten

    A layout? surely not!

    By 28ten,

    Well this has always been a tricky issue, why? well I cant make my mind up!! I have a few pet scenarios spread over 4 timeframes all GWR or BR(W)


     
    Paddington C1906, well something round the back anyway, Bishops road or the goods depot
    Paddington C1970 similar scenario to the above but with all those lovely hydraulics and parcels stock
    Winchester C 1930 Didcot Newbury and Southampton Rly, half the station not including the goods yard
    Winchester C 1948 but with Q1's and T9's as well as an ancient Duke
    Ashburton 30's the quintessential GWR branch terminus

    (Un)fortunately I have items of rolling stock to cover all of the timeframes!?  one of the problems is the long time frame for a 7mm project, and coupled with my short attention span it makes for 'strategic drift'. I flit from one to another as the mood takes me but I really do need to nail it down other wise I am just going to end up doing nothing.
    Still on the bright side the S7 GE mafia hasn't got to me, I can't be bought, unlike some eh, JB
  11. 28ten

    The workshop

    By 28ten,

    I have only used Wordpress for blogging before so i am feeling my way around this. at the moment images are linked to a picasa but this may also be changed once I get a feel for things anyway, without further ado, a few shots of the work area just to show that i actually do make something, first up is the workbench nothing special. in the photo you can see the RSU and a ERSA soldering station. the draws on the right have all the hand tools

    Next up and to the left of the bench is the library, this has a second small bench which is handy for putting things while they dry etc

    Finally a small part of the kit stash and some unfinished projects....

    I'll post some shots of the other side of the workshop once the rebuild has finished but so far the lathe has been installed and levelled, a lot of work still needs to be done before the Milling machine arrives

  12. 28ten

    N13 Horsebox

    By 28ten,

    I found this in my todo pile, yet another horsebox, I really must crack on with the chassis....The kit is from WEP whilst its quite accurate there are some problems with the ironwork on the body side but I have overcome these. The closeup shows my method of getting nicely rounded hinges by using thin strip folded double


  13. 28ten

    Class B tank wagon

    By 28ten,

    A couple of quick shots of a finished MMP tank wagon, this is the second I have built. If you like highly detailed kits I would recommend it without hesitation, just don't expect to complete it in a week I would estimate that I put in over 100 hours
    I am unsure if the 'Esso plate' was still carried in the early 70's, i have colour pictures with it removed in the late 70's, but I might leave it as it reminds me of the Airfix kit Iused to have.
    Here are the working leaf springs



×
×
  • Create New...