westerner

Unfortunately my fencing goes up and down and in a curve (thats on al sections, so just doing the end posts wouldn't work. Whilst my method takes a bit of time to set up it appears to work for all types of terrain. Jeff the big advantage with EZ line is that if you catch whilst doing other work on the layout it stretches without bending posts or telegraph poles and then returns to its original length.

Thanks for your kind comments and tips. As i said in my previuos post I used young josh's method which involves making up a jig on some MDF and then marking out the the posts and at either end creating a small notch for the EZ line to slot into (I cheated and only put on 4 wires rather than 7. the bottom ones would be covered in vegetation.) Once you have placed the EZ line slip the ratio posts into place and then fix with a dab of super glue. Unfortunately I stretched the EZ line too tight on my first effort which meant as i put the posts on the layout some EZ line snapped and that wwhich was there was stretched so thin that you could not see it. My second attempt had the line only very slightly stretched and to be fair in future I may not even do that. This has worked much better as you can see from the photos. The Fence Jig with the rather overstreched EZ line The second effort install on the layout only another 14feet to go.

Having chatted to Josh of Potterbourne fame, as to how he did his fencing, I think I am encouraged to have a go. What we need (in Modelling terms) is a rainy day or two to trap in the model railway room and I might get it done.

Robin, somewhere I do have a reel of EZEE wire but I'm not sure yet. When I look at old photos I never seem to see the wire even when i look for it. It really depends on my indolence or lack of it when I've finished doing other twiddly bits and finishing off.

Thanks Simon and 81C By the way thereason I got rather tired of the hanging basket liner by itself it didn't matter how often I trimmed it there was alwys long strands sticking up in the air, often spoiling photographs. 81C, The hedges are home made. Strips of rubberised horsehair cut from the standard block you can buy. Very slightly teased then hairsprayed and dipped in flock. and then stuck down with PVA.

As mention I have been slowly covering the hanging basket liner with static grass. I discovered that the tea strainer type dispenser is fine with the shorter strands (upto 2.5 mm) but was too keen on the longer ones (4mm and above). Here are three views around the layout. I think it looks better already although there is still work to be done.

No Frank I don't think it'll be quick and easy but I might try the Tony Wright method of a goalpost on the tender and hook on the loco, or just a cut down draw bar with a hook on.

After reading the Fencehouses article in MRJ I decided to subtley alter the scenics today. I got out the electric tea strainer and started doing the static grass thing. I'll do some photos when it all dries.

It's coming along very well Tim.and although I model the Western region I do have a soft spot for Spam Cans of all sizes and the T9s.

Looking at the photos I have realised I need a crew and to shorten the distance between the tender and the loco.

Thanks les and for all tose who like the photos one last one of the county waiting for the off at Wencombe

A couple more shots of County of Gloucester arriving at Wencombe

1015 County of Gloucester back in service heading a train from the midlands to Kingsbridge.

Thanks Mickey, It could well be as Gloucester is my home town. At the time frame of my layout she was a Swindon (59-61), Didcot (61-62) or Plymouth Laira (62-64) loco.

A little more work today on the chimney and old smokebox handle. Seem to have got rid of the latter but I may do a bit more work blending in the chimney. Trouble is you only see what needs to be donby taking the photo which blows everything at least 3 times life size.

A little more progress. new smoke box door handles but I have to get rid of the "shadow" of the moulded ones. Really shows up in photo. And blend in chimney a bit better.

I did them quite a few years ago . As far as I remember they were brush painted with a dirty black and track dirt (acrylics) mix which was painted with vertical strokes and then with an almost dry brush taken off again. Now i would probably use an airbrush.

Just looking at the first photo in my last post I realise I need to to replace the smokebox door handles.

A couple of pix as promised. Still not stuck chimney down yet or affixed name plates, will also have to fabricatr lamp irons, probably out of the name plate fret (waste not want not)

Just started painting new double chimney and re-transfered the tender picyures to follow later when I've changed the name and number.

A way of moving a light or failed engine back to its own shed?

My mojo for modelling is slowly coming back, so I decided it was about time I altered the chimney on my 1000 County and i will re name it County of Gloucester (my county of birth). the first thing to do was to pull out the single chimney and then cut and file the remains of the old chimney down. Th ephotos show the first lot of filing down and the atrial fit of the new 247 developments double chimney. I feel thereis a tad more filing to do and to drill holes in the double chimney.

I think I agree with Nick on this one, although perhaps a water trough from an old galvanised bath to add a point of interest in the field.

Whoops , that would explain the odd thumping when it ran over the points. Thanks jeff for the explaination. many thanks Mickey and the rest of you for your kind comments.

Thanks for the kind comments. A couple more shots of the lost Bradford and Barton shots.