jamest

Hi all, Not much in photo terms but started paining the rail sides today. I'm using tamiya Hull red. It will be toned down with dark washes and dusting later. I'll also dry brush the sleepers a bit before ballasting. Although in my experience the dustiness of some ballast will lighten things a little. Regards, James

Hi, Apologies if I am being stupid here - on the lincs system you can couple anywhere? It does not have to be over a magnet? I see how the wire pulls down over a magnet to uncouple but I'm struggling to visualise how they push past each other to couple away from a magnet. Regards, James

Hi, I have seen, and heard, about that method. I have plenty of off cuts I can practice on but I am reasonably happy with the bridge now. I needed to tone down the mortar a bit and I think I have achieved that. Its also had the added bonus of adding darker areas on the brick faces and generally made it all look a little more aged. I think the 'wideness' or 'boldness' of the motor is also a result of the choice of embossed sheet type too..... another thing I plan to experiment with - but possibly not on the same layout. All that said I would never rule out a method until I have tried it - do you use ready mixed stuff? Regards, James

Hi all, Happy new year. I've been making steady progress over Dec with the bridge, signal box and station building. I've also bought an exact editions sub to railway modeller. They had a series on a small light railway in O gauge and I was interested to read about how he had sprayed the track with a rattle can from halfords.... Camouflage brown. It is a good match for my normal sleeper grime and I hate spraying the track with an airbrush. So I bought one yesterday and tried it today. Its matt, covers well and dries quickly, even at this time of year. The colour looks good as a base too. I wanted to spray the basic colour while I had good access and before I added the platform and back scene. I've asked about signal box and starter signal positioning on the signalling bit of the forum. I think I'm going to have to apply rule 1 to have the box and signal the scenic side of the bridge. I'm also going to control the three points from the box... No ground frame. It seems reasonable as the box will have good visabilty of said points. I have some point rodding, stools and cranks from wizard models. Anyhew here are some pics... I'm still musing over positioning the signal box here... It will depend on what I do with the bay platform... And how long I want the platform to be. Regards James

thanks. I envisage a simple two points the other side of the bridge. The ‘bay’ joins the middle running line, and the front line joins the middle running line to create a single track. I am happy to have the box on the scenic side suggested to connect to signals off scene if they would tend to be the other side of the bridge. Then have it control the points in view, with rodding/wire disappearing off under the bridge for the two unseen points, trap points, signalling, etc. The impression I’m getting is that it is strange to have the box and signalling on the scenic side of the bridge. Presumably because the single line access would be dealt with/protected where the lines converge off scene? I would have liked to have the other side of the loop scenic but my shed size does not allow it. I made a decision early not to put the fiddle yard outside. That may come next time! Regards, James

Hi all, I was preparing myself for information overload as I knew there would be plenty of advice! Please don’t take that the wrong way, I’d like to learn a bit. I’m afraid I am one of those annoying people with developing plans and the tendency to change things. I ‘see’ the practical point on the signal, and box, on the non scenic side of the bridge. I assume that if the box is off-scene the loco release would be ground frame. If I keep it scenic side, with a bit of modellers licence, I could control from the box. To be clear the running line is the platform line (the station building is roughly where it should be). The platform will extend nearly to the box shown. I thought that some goods traffic might sit off the platform line waiting to depart after the passenger service arrives. But I suppose that is an unlikely concentration of activity on a country branch terminus. I don’t want to be someone who asks for advice, and then ignores it, but I would like to include the signal box scenically if it can be slightly justified! thanks james

Hi all, I have a thread running on my layout build in the 7mm section and I was hoping for some advice on signalling and point control. Here is the basic track plan. I have started and I am about to commit to platforms, signal box,etc. I also want to put down the point rodding prior to ballasting. question one: signals where should I place the starter signal? I think in front of the signal box, not between it and the over bridge scenic break. I might want to have goods traffic waiting in the loop to depart. Can that be done with a ground signal? Or do I need another starter? At the moment I plan to have goods in the bay and not passenger services. I should add this converges to a single line after the bridge. Starter as red below? here is what will be the scenic break at the end of the cork: Question two: point rodding. is it ok to run all three scenic points from the signal box? I did think the one in the loop might be via a lever arm and the runaround controlled by the signal box? I just want to get things planned out before I commit the structures and buildings. I am happy to compromise as it is a modelled compressed scene. But I would like to get it make some sort of sense! thanks in advance James

Hi, Is this the one at Taunton? I believe I am due to come along and help Richard with Orchard Road. Look forward to seeing this in the flesh too. regards, James

Hi all, OK, I've been busy with the paints and I've tried a couple of methods. First was to paint all over with enamel humbrol 70 and let dry throughly. Then paint with a cream acrylic humbrol 103 and wipe off with tissue.... This looks good but I was not keen on the prominence of the lighter mortar colour. I also tried some acrylic paint mixed as I paint... Burnt sienna, black and burnt umber. Painted over my previous efforts….. It was then sealed with matt car lacquer.... Then I used the same 103 cream on the mortar but wiped with my finger.. Difficult to see here but the different shades of brick shows through and is deeper as it comes off the faces better with the lacquer applied before mortar. I still felt it looked too light and dominated by the lighter mortar so I nervously applied some grey wash in an area probably covered by terrain and liked it better. You can see the difference below after I expanded it a bit when I was happy.... I plan to do the rest with a grey wash later... Regards, James

Hi, Sorry to hear you will not be pursuing this layout, I was following with interest - but I totally understand - hope your N gauge adventure ticks all the boxes for you. I'm moving to O gauge steadily but I'm trying to keep as much of my OO stuff as I can because its always more expensive to buy it back later. But everything is reasonably expensive nowadays, whatever the scale, and we don't always have the luxury of keeping everything and just buying more stuff! all the best, James

Hi again, yes still going….changing my mind, starting, finishing, selling stuff! I’m currently working on North Molton, in my sig below, and an O gauge similar project (not in my sig). It’s in the 7mm section under “New layout - 7mm newbie BLT” look forward to your updates. You may remember we lost our two cats in the year before you. We have a couple more now, not everyone wants to I know, but the house was empty without any cats, and there were two farm cats nearby in need of a good home. Cheers, James

Hi, Great surprise to see this one pop up again. Good to hear you have got your mojo back and really looking forward to seeing you progress. Your work always spurred me on to get better myself. all the best, James

Hi Ade, Can I ask what ballast you have used? apologies if you've mentioned it already. Love the look of your track work. regards, James

Totally agree, great to go to an exhibition again. Lovely hosts and great cakes! Regards, James

Hi all, After dusting the layout off and having a tidy up and play I’ve decided to keep it! I can easily transport it so I think I will finish it off with people, lights, signals, etc and exhibit it locally. I should be able to do it alongside my O gauge work. To that end I’ve traded in my 4MT and I am now the proud owner of a Dapol Western! Best laid plans and all that! regards James

Thanks guys, I have seen the intentio guide.... That's what I used to buy my colours! The video is useful too. James

Hi Grahame, No problem, you are absolutely correct, I have been honest and shown the worst edges there! I need to be more careful on edges in the future, perhaps bevelling the edges or even overlapping them to trim back. I was concentrating a lot on lining up the brick courses all over! I am really pleased how it has turned out, but I am very nervous about the painting side of things. I tried a few times in OO but always went back to scalescenes papers as I was never happy with the results. I have a few books and references though…..and I’ve invested in several recommended red brick colours. I plan to practice on scrap pieces first. Regards, James

Hi all, Made some good progress with the bridge and scenic break over the last few days. I've joined the two arches and added some decorative/structural vertical bricks and pillars. I've also added plinths by sticking to some 2mm card and angling off the top. Here are the pictures.... I still need to do the internal surfaces of the arches and tidy up the edges. Cheers, James

Hi all, Back to the layout after the distraction of the return of my 25.... I've started on the scenic break bridge. I have considered DAS stonework on a MDF framework but also bought some 5mm faomboard and decided to combine that with some brick sheets from SE Fine cast. I've tried to make sure it is well braced.... But I don't intend to put anything heavy, like a bus , on it. I did not have an arch for the smaller single span so I cut one from a 4mm brick sheet I had and scribed a new pattern on the reverse. I've clad some of the face wall and made the structure behind the double span. There will be pillars each end and in between the arches to hide the joins and add interest. Here is the single portal to show the basic form. On holiday this week so hope to make some more progress. Regards, James

Hi, While the roof was off and I was running I noticed the motors starting and finishing at different times too. For now straightening the motor ‘better’ seems to have improved things a lot, but it’s good to know I have the option of one motor. I am very happy with the weathering and decoder fitting from jintyman. He is a really nice guy and very skill full and helpful. My Hymek is with him now! regards James

Hi, Shameless bump to add some more photos and say the layout is now in the classified section. Position of the three kadee magnets: Regards, james

Hi all, I have improved the running on the problem end. After inspection the shaft into the bogie looked to be running more eccentric than the other end. I think the bearing might be looser in the housing, but I thought the motor was also influencing it. I loosened the motor clamps and effectively rotated the motor and flywheel a little anti clockwise using a thin wedge and re-clamping. The motor and flywheel sub-assy was definitely more central in its channel, and the running was much improved in the problem direction. When I upturned it and twisted the bogie to add the body screws it was not quite as good - but has improved 80% and is not noticeable with sound on. Something to keep an eye, or ear, on! Cheers, James

hi John, Yes, demands on time, space and energy make it difficult to model in two scales. I might move on some stock but not too much, it’s always more expensive to buy it again later! regards, James

Hi all, Been a while.... Dug the old girl out today for a tidy up and photo shoot. Thinking of selling her on as I rarely run anything and I have developed an O gauge habit! Cheers, James

Hi all, Got a little annoying problem with the 25. Ref the photo below. In one direction I get a noise from the no1 end to the left of the universal joint around the entry to the bogie 'tower'. Its difficult to say for sure exactly where it comes from. If I lightly side load the UJ with a finger it stops. If I switch direction it does not happen. I thought I had run it out on the rolling Road.... but it came back after switching direction and back. There does not seem to be an obvious difference between the play and movement on either end. You can bearly hear it when the sound is on (obviously I can now) so I could leave it. I don't really want to take it apart. One other option could to be remove the motor that side as I don't need two for my layout... But that seems extreme. Does anyone have any thoughts/ideas? Regards, James